Cape Cod Chef's Table: A Taste of the Cape

"All of this is to say that today you can find more and more people living off the land and making a living with what is available to them on Cape Cod. And this is helping Cape Cod become a food destination as well as a popular tourist spot."
--John F. Carafoli (p.xiv)

This afternoon, I'll be traveling to Provincetown, on Cape Cod, to spend several days as part of a media trip sponsored by the exploring Provincetown Tourism Office. I'll be dining at a number of restaurants, as well as checking out bakeries, food markets, wine shops and more. Plus, I will be immersed in historical explorations, a whale watch and other tourist activities. It seems appropriate then that today I should review a new cookbook which concentrates on Cape Cod.

I am impressed with Cape Cod's Chef's Table: Extraordinary Recipes from Buzzards Bay to Provincetown by John F. Carafoli (Lyons Press, June 2013, $24.95). This is a hardcover book of 192 pages, which is part cookbook and part travel guide to the 70-mile long Cape Cod peninsula. John Carafoli is a food stylist, consultant, and food writer who lives in West Barnstable. He also wrote Food Photography and Styling and two children’s cookbooks, Look Who’s Cooking and The Cookie Cookbook.

"You can now find Italian, Brazilian, Mexican, and French restaurants, but there is always that touch of Cape Cod cultural DNA in each restaurant, fresh and local."
--John F. Carafoli (p.xiv

The book is broken down into three main sections: Upper Cape, Mid Cape and Lower Cape. Each section consists of 12-15 listings, mainly restaurants though there are also listings for inns, farms, a tea shop, a winery and even a food truck. This is but a representative sampling, including several iconic locations, of what can be found on the Cape. Each of the listings provides some basic information and stories (such as their history) about these establishments. Each listing also includes one or two recipes from each of those places.

You will find lots of seafood restaurants mentioned but there is plenty of diversity, and you will also find Mexican, Brazilian, French and other restaurants. The recipes range from cocktails to lobster rolls, pizza to ice cream, clam chowder to English toffee. Many of the recipes even come with wine suggestions, a great idea, and some of their suggestions are intriguing. Australian Semillon, Italian Ribola Gialla, Italian Dolcetto, Portuguese Vinho Verde. Most of the recipes seem relatively easy to moderate in complexity and my favorite may be the Buttermilk Fried Chicken from Cranberry's Restaurant & Pub.

Besides these listings, there are numerous other articles spread out through the book, detailing more about the food life on the Cape, including: How to Eat a Lobster, Bourne Scallop Festival, All About Oysters, Cranberry Bog Harvest, Cape Cod Cottage Industries (from jams to potato chips), Clambakes, Food From the Sea (fishermen), and The Farmers Who Feed Us. These interesting items add to the reader's comprehension of the culture of Cape Cod and are a nice addition to the rest of the book.

The photography in the book, done by Francine Zaslow, is beautiful and compelling, and you will find a photograph on nearly every page. Not only will you find alluring photos of the various recipes, but you will also find the people and places of the Cape. Very well done.

Overall, this is an impressive and fascinating glimpse into the food world of Cape Cod, an excellent cookbook and travel guide. It has made me even more eager to journal to Provincetown. Check out this book and I bet it will intrigue you to make a journey to Cape Cod this summer. Or at least cook a few recipes that will remind you of the Cape.

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Rant: Going Gaga For Goat?

“Put silk on a goat and it is still a goat.”
--Irish saying

Despite the fact that approximately 70% of the red meat eaten in the world is goat, it is not the easiest meat to find locally. It is most likely to be found in ethnic restaurants and shops. Why aren't more local restaurants, markets and butcher shops using and showcasing goat? A recent article in the Pittsburgh Post Gazette claims that goat is "becoming trendy" but is their evidence more anecdotal than definitive? What isn't the U.S. more gaga for goat?

“Bring me a bowl of coffee before I turn into a goat.”
--Johann Sebastian Bach

The article offers few actual statistics, concentrating more on discussions with specific restaurants which serve goat. It also mentions that few fine dining restaurants offer goat on their regular menus. One of the only statistics they offer is that the Maryland-West Virginia-Pennsylvania Meat Goat Association noted that their goat production increased 20% in the past five years and that the number of goat farms had almost doubled since 2011. That is only a local figure and may not be representative of the rest of the country.

“He who lets the goat be laid on his shoulders is soon after forced to carry the cow.”
--Italian saying

The Agricultural Marketing Resource Center (AMRC) has a darker picture for goat production in the U.S. They note that meat goat inventory has declined since 2009. Texas currently produces about 40% of the goat meat in the U.S. and Tennessee. Oklahoma, California and Missouri are produce significant amounts too. So, the Maryland-West Virginia-Pennsylvania Meat Goat Association is apparently not a major national goat producer. AMRC also indicates that the goat industry has been growing in Hawaii, Oklahoma, Louisiana, New Mexico and Idaho. In addition, goat meat exports recently decreased 49% though live goat exports actually increased by 37%. And where did most of those goats go? Canada and the Philippines. Last year, the U.S. also imported $72.1 million in goat meat, mostly from Australia.

"The lust of the goat is the bounty of God."
--William Blake

On a more positive note, the USDA indicates that they inspected 779,000 goat carcasses in 2010, which is an increase from 558,857 in 2004. Apparently though, the 2010 figure is slightly lower than it had been in 2008 and 2009. In addition, the U.S. still ranks very low in goat consumption compared to the rest of the world. As of 2005, the U.S. ranked 136th out of 174 countries in goat consumption. Mongolia was in 1st place. In the U.S., the groups that eat the most goat include Hispanics, Muslims and those from the Caribbean. So why aren't more people eating goat?

“If the beard were all, goats could preach.”
--Danish saying

Healthwise, goat is a great option. It is very low in fat, about 3%, which makes it lower than turkey, chicken, pork, lamb and beef. In addition, it has less calories and cholesterol than these meats and even has more protein than beef. Goat also has more iron than chicken, pork, lamb and beef. Overall, goat is a very nutritious alternative to other commonly consumed meats. Another compelling element is that raising goats is more sustainable than many other meats. They are browsers, not grazers, meaning they do less damage to the land, and even eat weeds which helps other plants grow better. Goats need less land than cattle as well.

“Every man can tell how many goats or sheep he possesses, but not how many friends.”
--Cicero

Currently, good goat can be expensive which means not as many people are willing to pay such high prices for an unfamiliar meat. Many consumers also do not know how to properly cook goat so their negative experiences in home cooking may not make them to want to try it again. The demand for goat needs to lead to lower prices and the average consumer needs to be educated on proper preparation. Restaurants need to be willing to place goat onto their menus, and make it more appealing to their customers. Goat is getting some good press which might help more people be willing to give it a try. I wouldn't go so far as say it is trendy yet, but it is definitely a meat worthy of exploration.

So stop wolfing down those hamburgers and chicken fingers. Go find yourself a delicious dish of goat!

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Bread+Butter: Lee Napoli's New North End Cafe

"Pastry is different from cooking because you have to consider the chemistry, beauty and flavor. It's not just sugar and eggs thrown together. I tell my pastry chefs to be in tune for all of this. You have to be challenged by using secret or unusual ingredients."
--Ron Ben-Israel

With places like Mike's Pastry, Bova's Bakery and Modern Pastry, does the North End really need another bakery? If another bakery wanted to make inroads into the North End, it would need a highly talented Pastry Chef as well as offer something significantly different from many of the other bakeries. Well, the new Bread + Butter bakery and cafe may fit that bill and I highly recommend that you visit this new spot and partake of their baked wonders.

The owner/chef is Lee Napoli (pictured above), a skilled Pastry Chef who has worked at or consulted at such Boston area restaurants as Icarus, Maison Robert, Grill 23, Anago, Metro, Bricco, The Buttery and Sandrine’s Bistro. In addition, she established the region’s first and only association for pastry professionals, the Professional Pastry Guild of New England. She is also the owner of Chocolee Chocolates, located in the South End, which has long been my favorite chocolate shop in the city. I was excited to learn that Lee was opening a bakery & cafe in the North End, believing it would be a hit as well.

Bread + Butter is located at the former spot of Caffé Graffiti, at the intersection of Cross and Salem streets. For the summer, much of the space is open to the air, and the outside patio will seat about 30 people. While relaxing on a bench or in the grass at the nearby Rose Kennedy Greenway, you can view the restaurant, and when you see everyone dining there, it may entice you to check it out. The inside is small, with approximately ten tables, but the open walls make it seem much roomier.

The bakery-cafe sells both savory and sweet items, from sandwiches to chocolates, salads to cookies. Most of the baked goods and pastries are visible on the long counter, and I am sure you will be enticed by multiple items. As it is still new, selections may change with time as they hone and revise their menu selections. The key here is that this is not a traditional Italian bakery, so its offerings are very different than what you will find at other North End bakeries. There is no Cannoli, no La Sfogliatella, no Pizzelle. Instead, you will find creative offerings which you might find at other artisan bakeries, all with Chef Napoli's unique touches.

Behind the front counter, you can see partially into the kitchen where all of the magic bakery is taking place. You might even see Chef Napoli working on some new creation. I was recently invited to a media tasting, and got to sample some of the delicious items coming out of this kitchen.

Bread+ Butter is open for breakfast, and serves a variety of enticing items including scones, danish, croissants, quiche and muffins. They even serve a Breakfast Pizza, topped with a poached egg and assorted savory toppings. I didn't get a chance to taste the pizza but I will do so on one of my next visits. They also sell a variety of coffees and teas, including iced tea, as well as their own House Made Sparkling Sodas. I tried the Raspberry soda, and after a good stir, it was a refreshing drink with only a mild sweetness.

For lunch, you can find an assortment of Sandwiches (most for $7.95) and Salads ($6-$9). Try a BBQ Pulled Pork or a Duck Confit. Or maybe a Kale & Farro Salad or a Caesar Salad. All of the breads are made in house, and the exact type will vary from day to day. The baguettes are delicious, with just that right combination of textures, a crustier exterior but a soft fluffy interior. And they make for good sandwich bread, not too heavy or tough.

It is the pastries which will most intrigue and delight your taste buds. They sell chocolates and truffles from Chocolee Chocolates, though it will mainly be mixed boxes, giving you an assortment of chocolate treasures. You will find other treats too, such as Hand-Dipped Eclairs, Beignets, Cakes and Tarts Du Jour, Cheesecake, Lemon Almond Cake, Brownies, and much more. I have had the eclairs and beignets at Chocolee Chocolates are they were excellent, with compelling fillings or rich cream or chocolate.

You will find a few different croissants, including a Ham & Cheese Croissant. Pure enjoyment! Flaky, light, and buttery with a bit of saltiness from the ham. An excellent croissant, and I suspect all of the varieties will be equally as good.

The Nutella Danish, visible above in pieces in the right hand corner, is also flaky and light, with intriguing notes of nuts, cinnamon and creamy chocolate. Another winner, well balanced flavors sure to please.

The deliciousness continues. The Pecan Roll is a soft mound of sticky, nutty goodness. Trying to decide which pastry to order is difficult with all of these excellent choices available.

I am a fan of coconut, and a cookie made of all coconut, a macaroon, has always appealed to me. Their macaroons are moist, not too dense, and have a nice drizzle of chocolate over them. Definitely one of the better coconut macaroons I have tasted.

Maybe the most compelling pastry though was the Queen's Pastry, the item in the back of the above photo with a toothpick in it. Based on an old French recipe, it is sometimes described as a cross between a croissant and a puff pastry. In the past, it might have been the scraps of these items, combined, and put into a mold. Here, it is a yeasted butter dough with salt and sugar. It is light and airy, with an exquisite melange of sweet and salty, an addictive treat which you could easily devour and then desire another.

A couple of the baked goods were good, but not especially interesting like the items I have highlighted above. However, this is a brand new bakery so it will need a little time to work out any kinks, and decide which baked goods are the best for them. Overall, I am impressed with Bread+ Butter and think Chef Napoli has another winner on her hands. It is a worthy addition to the North End. I will certainly be back to try more of the menu and it receives my highest recommendation.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The crew at Farmstead, Inc. is shaking up your typical takeout routine with family-style suppers and monthly brunches, complete with all the house-cured meaty, artisan cheesy fare you dig from Farmstead. Weekend happenings include:

Sunday Suppers:
Every Sunday night, excluding May 26 and June 2, from 5pm-10pm
Cost: $29 per person; $39 per person with beverage pairing
Beginning this spring, Matt & Kate Jennings and the Farmstead team share age-old family recipes in a weekly Sunday Supper series. Diners are welcomed for three-course family-style feasts of homespun classics with a Farmstead twist, served communally with an optional beverage pairing (two hand-selected wines from the restaurant’s cellar, one cocktail or a beer-and-shot combo, depending on the menu). The full bistro menu will also be available during Sunday-night dinner starting June 9. Reservations accepted but not required.

Inspired by mom’s greatest hits, upcoming menus include (subject to adjustments):
June 9: Melville Rangoon and "Duck Sauce"
Orange Beef and Broccoli with Steamed Rice
Pineapple Upside-Down Cake with Maraschino Cherry Ice Cream
Singapore Slings
June 16: Fried Pickles with Garlic Ranch
BBQ Ribs, Coleslaw and Mom's Buttermilk Biscuits
Strawberry Rhubarb Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream
Bourbon Slush Punch
June 23rd: Antipasto All'Italiana
Nanny's Spaghetti and Meatballs
Affogato with Biscotti
Nero D'Avola

Monthly Brunches
First Sunday of every month; from 10am-2pm
Round off your weekends Jennings-style with once-a-month Sunday-morning brunches done up the Farmstead way. Midday meals include playful takes on brunch standards featuring monthly changing options like Sweet Pea Waffles with Smoked Salmon, Fried Mortadella & Pancake Sandwiches, Papas Gordas and House-Made Cider Doughnuts. Reservations suggested but not required.

2) It’s the mother of all pop-up dinners this June when Matt Jennings of Providence bistro/artisanal shop Farmstead, Inc. gathers ten of his closest friends – who also happen to be dynamite chefs from Boston, New York and Canada – for the first-ever Northern Alliance Dinner at jm Curley in Boston.

Celebrating the camaraderie, creative collaboration and shared inspiration between US and Canadian chefs, the dinner features a multi-course meal of neo-traditional North American cuisine from ten culinary all-stars. The evening begins with a reception of chef favorites Fernet Branca and Bols Genever soaked up with passed apps, followed by five collaborative courses with beverage pairings.

Proceeds from the Northern Alliance dinner support a favorite charity of the US chefs – the American Farmland Trust – in its mission to support and protect small family farms. A second event later this summer in Montreal will support an organization close to the Canadian chefs’ hearts.

Participating Chefs
Matt Jennings – Farmstead, Inc. (Providence)
April Bloomfield – Spotted Pig, The Breslin, The John Dory Oyster House, Salvation Taco (NYC)
Ken Oringer – Clio, Uni, Toro, Coppa, La Verdad, Earth (Boston)
Jamie Bissonnette – Toro, Coppa (Boston)
Zak Pelaccio – Fish & Game (NYC)
Derek Dammann – Maison Publique (Montreal)
Lee Cooper – L’Abbattoir (Vancouver)
Rob Gentile – Buca, Bar Buca (Toronto)
Matty Matheson – Parts & Labour (Toronto)
Jeremy Charles – Raymonds Restaurant (Newfoundland)

When: Sunday, June 23, 6pm-10pm
Cost: Tickets are $250/person and available at http://www.farmsteadinc.com/shop/things-we-love/northern-alliance-dinner-0

3) Lucia Ristorante Owner Donato Frattaroli and Executive Chef Pino Maffeo introduce the next class in the Lucia Winchester cooking series: Pasta. Guests will learn how to make Mama Lucia's Traditional Italian Lasagna, Pasta al Forno and Maccheroni Chittara. Attendees will learn the secrets of perfect pasta, sauce and pairings. Class will conclude with a family-style dinner.

When: Wednesday, June 5, from 6:30p.m.-9 p.m.
Where: Lucia Ristorante, Winchester, 13 Mt. Vernon St.   Winchester
Cost: The cost is $50 plus $15 materials fee. Classes are held in downstairs kitchen. Students can sign up and pay at host station before class date or pay by credit card by phone. For more information or to book a spot, please call (781) 729-0515.

4) 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar in Salem is launching a new Tuesday Tasting wine series beginning Tuesday, May 28, featuring wine, food and a chance to mingle with friends new and old for only $25 per person. Guests can look forward to (4) unique wines and (4) creations presented by chef Antonio Bettencourt while learning about each wine. “We have a really robust wine program here and many times people are intimidated by a restaurant’s wine list. We wanted to create a unique series so that our guests can experience all that we have to offer in a relaxed, comfortable and most importantly, fun setting,” said Chef Bettencourt.

A great deal for diners, the restaurant has added a fun twist to the series. Unlike typical wine dinners, each Tuesday night tasting has a unique theme meant to overcome some of the pretention associated with wine tastings. In addition to the wine pairings, guests will get a taste of true Italian authenticity as Chef Bettencourt serves up some of his paired spuntini and small plates.

May 28: What’s the 411? This tasting will cover the wine tasting basics- highlighting grape varietals, their characteristics and where they are grown around the world. Terroir- What is it and why should I care?
June 11: Pretty in Pink. At this wine tasting 62 is breaking the stigma of pink wine and setting the new rules for rose. Real men drink pink, too.
July 16: Summertime wines- Grilling reds-wines with low tannin and bright acidity/Picnic whites-keeping it light and bright/Sangria, ole! -using seasonal fruit to spice up your wine
August 20: ABC-- Anything But California – There’s more to U.S. wine than what’s grown in the Golden State. At this tasting guests will explore the other wine U.S. regions including Washington, Oregon, New York and even Massachusetts.
September 17: Italian All-stars - From Piedmont to Tuscany. Exploring some of the most sought after wines from Italy. Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello & Super Tuscan
October 15: American Heavy Hitters Big-boy Cabs and Zins that make you pay attention.

Registration is necessary and can be done by calling 62 at (978) 744-0062

5) The Vermont Cheesemakers’ Festival will return to the shores of Lake Champlain this summer to celebrate Vermont cheeses, artisan foods, craft beers, local wines—and the people who make them. The 5th Annual Vermont Cheesemakers’ Festival will be held on Sunday, July 21 at the Coach Barn at Shelburne Farms in Shelburne, VT from 10am-4pm.

This year’s festival will feature over 200 cheeses from more than 40 cheesemakers, as well as dozens of artisan food producers, and local beer, wine and spirits producers. Tasting, pairing and sampling opportunities will be interspersed with cheesemaking and cooking demonstrations, and workshops throughout the day.

“This year’s “Meet the Cheesemakers” workshop series will be free with the price of admission, and offered on a first come, first serve basis. Murray’s Cheese will share their “Counter Intelligence” with a workshop on affinage and the cave-aging process. The cheesemakers behind Vermont’s well-loved cheddars will present “Cheddar is a Verb,” a workshop devoted to understanding what makes a great cheddar. “Cheese Through the Seasons” will delve into cheese seasonality and the subtle variations that result from the changing Vermont landscape.

Two cooking demonstrations will also be offered free with admission-- “Creative Cheese Boards” with Chef Sean Buchanan of Black River Produce and “Beyond Fondue: Cooking with Cheese” with Chef David Hugo of Shelburne Farms.

Tickets are $50 per person and include full access to all festival events, including workshops, demonstrations, and beer and wine tastings. Tickets are available online at www.vtcheesefest.com or by calling 802-86-FLYNN. The Festival typically sells out well in advance, so early ticket reservations are encouraged.

This cheese fest is always a great time and I highly recommend you check it out. And make sure to get your tickets early as they only sell a limited amount and sell out every year.

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Oyá Cuban Cafe: A Warrior-Spirit Presiding Over The Kitchen

I have had little experience with authentic Cuban cuisine, which is commonly considered to be a mix of Spanish, African and Caribbean cuisines. So I was intrigued to learn of a new Cuban restaurant, the Oya Cuban Cafe, which recently came to Malden. It has only been open for a few months and I have dined there for lunch a couple times. Based on my experiences so far, it is a restaurant worth checking out.

The restaurant is owned by a husband and wife team. Roberto and Maybi Niubo. Roberto, who was born and raised in Cuba, is the chef and began his culinary education in Cuba. He continued his education in Massachusetts, at the Le Cordon Bleu School of Culinary Arts in Cambridge. The name of the restaurant, Oyá, derives from a goddess in the Yoruba religion. Oyá is a warrior-spirit of the wind, lightning, fertility, fire, and magic. It is she who looks over the restaurant.

The restaurants is simply decorated and seats about 38 people plus 6 at the small bar. It has a bit of a homey ambiance with a partially open kitchen. They recently obtained a license to sell wine and beer and their current wine list is small, about 14 wines, but the selections are actually interesting and relatively inexpensive. You'll find a Fino Sherry, a LBV Port, Cava, and other wines from Spain, Portugal, Argentina and elsewhere. Most of the bottles are priced under $30, with their highest wine at $36. Pretty good for a small restaurant.

Their food is intended to be authentic, and nearly everything is made in house. That is certainly a good selling point. The Lunch menu is broken into Appetizers ($6-$12, Soups ($5), Salads ($3-$6), Sandwiches ($7-$10) and Entrees ($13-$15). The Dinner menu has additional choices, and prices are a bit higher for those items, with entrees up to $24 (a Filet Mignon). And yes, you will find a traditional Cuban sandwich on the Lunch menu, as well as sliders for Dinner.

In the Appetizers, the Croquetas de Pollo ($7) are chicken croquettes served with a rustic Cuban sofrito sauce. The crunchy exterior hides the soft mashed potatoes and chicken within. They are filling and the sofrito is nicely spiced, with lots of flavor.

Another Appetizer is the Empanadas de Carne ($8), Beef Empanadas which are also served with a rustic Cuban sofrito. These were impressive, with a crisp, fresh tasting empanada containing a hot, juicy sauce with tender ground beef, olives and spices. I could have made a meal of these empanadas alone and they get my strongest recommendation.

Under the Sandwiches, I ordered the Medianoche Oyá ($8), a "midnight" sandwich with BBQ slow roasted pork, chorizo, and melted Swiss Cheese on soft bread. It is called a "midnight" sandwich because it is popular in Cuban nightclubs around midnight. This is an ample sandwich, filled with plenty of flavorful meat and cheese. I should note that there are onions on the sandwich, within the roasted pork, though the onions are not listed as an ingredient. The bread was fresh and soft, pairing well with the stuffings and the addition of the chorizo was great. Next time, I need to try their Cuban.

In the Entrees, I opted for the Arroz a la Cubana ($13), a plate of Cuban style ground beef, white rice and a fried egg with a side of Sweets Fried Plantains. The plentiful ground beef is within a compelling and tasty sauce which has olives, onions and what seem to be tiny grapes. It is a hearty dish, perfect for a rainy or cold day. The plantains though were a bit dry and not very exciting.

The Dessert menu has four choices, priced $5-$6, and includes Rice Pudding and Caramel Flan. My choice though was the Pudín de Pan con Dulce de Leche y Helado ($6), a warm Bread Pudding with ice cream, and it was stellar. A great consistency and taste to the bread pudding, and the caramel sauce was enticing. The ice cream enhanced the dish and I would come to the restaurant just for this dessert. Highly recommended.

Overall, the restaurant is making some excellent dishes, and a couple items which are more ordinary, though not unappealing. I still would like to try more items on the menu, especially on the dinner menu. Portion sizes are good and prices are very reasonable. Service is excellent, friendly and attentive. There is much reason to check out Oyá Cuban Cafe and get a taste of Cuba.

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Pazzo Gelato Cafe: Willy Wonka & Duality

"Try some more. The strawberries taste like strawberries, and the snozzberries taste like snozzberries."
--Willy Wonka

As a child, I loved the movie Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory and it still occupies a special place in my heart. Such a twisted and fun movie, and Gene Wilder played such a great role. The remake was a travesty. Last week I visited a new gelato shop which was inspired by Willy Wonka, and found an abundance of vibrant and natural flavors.

The Pazzo Gelato Cafe recently opened in North Andover and its website is under construction though their Facebook page has some details about the shop. It is open every day, from 10am-10pm, except Sundays when it opens at 12pm. The cafe can be easily located on Route 114, in the Eaglewood Shops. Besides its Wonka inspiration, it is also an exemplar of duality, a showcase of opposing characteristics.

Pazzo, an Italian word which means "crazy," is owned by Jim Demotses, a former lawyer who graduated from Suffolk Law School, the same law school where I graduated. Jim has also worked in restaurants his whole life and eventually realized that food and cooking were his true passion. I can relate to his career change, leaving the legal profession. Jim received his primary training at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts and immersed himself more deeply into gelato at the Gelato & Pastry Institute of America as well as the Carpigiani Frozen Dessert University in North Carolina.

"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
--Willy Wonka

Jim was inspired by Willy Wonka, and one of the cafe walls is covered by a colorful mural which is meant to reflect, in part, the Lickable Wallpaper from the Wonka movie. Though I don't advise licking the murals. The cafe, small and welcoming, has 7 tables, made from reclaimed wood, where you can sit and eat. Jim's philosophy "...centers on providing an authentic Italian gelateria experience by serving freshly-made products sourced from local dairy producers, using imported Italian flavorings and high-quality fresh fruits." Based on my visit, he seems to be living up to this philosophy.

There is another colorful mural on one of the other walls, it is is essentially the family mural, presenting images of Jim's family. You can see his wife, Karen, his daughter, Helen, and his son, Andrew. The mural also depicts the village in Campagna, Italy, where Karen's grandfather was born. The murals on both walls were designed by Kate Delaney, a local artist, and there is even a QR code within the mural which leads to a video of Kate designing the mural.

One of their glass cases holds numerous baked goods, most which are made in house except for the tea breads. The cookies and muffins are made fresh in the cafe. You can stop by for breakfast, to grab a treat with some coffee or tea.

"Bubbles, bubbles everywhere, but not a drop to drink - yet."
--Willy Wonka

Besides food, they also sell a variety of drinks, including coffee (from espresso to cappucino), tea and hot chocolate. And the drinks come either hot or cold. They make fresh brewed, unsweetened iced tea which pleased me to see. You can even get frozen drinks, such as an Espresso Frappino or Fruit Smoothie.

The first aspect of duality is that the Cafe produces both sweet and savory treats. Though gelato is their primary focus, they also prepare a line of Paninis. You'll find eight paninis on the menu, priced from $7.95-$8.95, and includes types such as Caprese and Chicken Milanese, Vegetarian and Reubino. Each panini is served with a small bag of Utz potato chips.

When I arrived at Pazzo, I ordered the Porchetta panini, which consists of thinly sliced, slow roasted Italian herb & spice rubbed pork topped by pickles, tomatoes, Swiss cheese, and chipotle mayo (though I opted for it without the mayo). It was quite tasty, with tender pork and a nice grilled bread, and would make for a good lunch at any time.

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams."
--Willy Wonka

The primary star of the shop is gelato and they usually carry 20+ flavors, divided into two glass cases. The smaller case contains all of the gelatos with nuts, to protect people who possess nut allergies. The sorbets, which are dairy free, are also differentiated by scoops with blue handles. They even sell gluten free gelato.

This is where we find another aspect of duality, local vs imported. Jim is strong in his support of the use of local ingredients but he finds value in imported ingredients as well, especially those from Italy. Locally, Jim uses the following vendors: Shaw Dairy Farm of Dracut for dairy products, CASA Foods of Middleton for imported Italian meats and cheeses, Iggy’s Breads of the World of Cambridge for freshly-baked pastries and bagels, and Jessica’s Brick Oven of North Andover for breads and rolls. He may use other local vendors in the future as well.

Jim also plans on using locally grown fruits, from farms and farmer's markets, when they are in season, and gelatos using those fruits will be differentiated as "native" gelatos. All of their sorbets are made from real fruit, and they do not use any artificial flavorings or colorings. When fruits are not in season, they rely on individually quick frozen fruit, which is ripe fruit, cut into pieces, and flash frozen to preserve its freshness and taste.

All of their nut flavors are imported from Italy, such as their Sicilian pistachio. They also obtain their  biscotti flavoring, rum raisin, and cheesecake from Italy. Their pure vanilla extract is obtained from France and it is alcohol-free, which thus won't interfere with the freezing of the gelato.

"And almost everything you'll see is eatable, edible. I mean, you can eat almost everything."
--Willy Wonka

Gelato comes in Small ($3.45), Medium ($4.15) or Large ($4.95) and you can get a fresh-made Waffle cone for an extra $1. While I was in the store, they were making the waffle cones and such an appealing aroma pervaded the shop. If you need a larger portion of gelato, you can order it by the Pint, Snack Pack or Party Pack (which holds 2+ pounds of gelato for $19.95). Or opt instead for a Gelato Sundae ($5.99) or Brownie Sundae ($7.25). If you order a Gelato Sandwich ($4.95), they will put your chosen flavor between any of their home-made cookies. Plenty of gelato options.

They even sell Gelato Frappes (medium $5.95, large $6.95), which can be topped by home-made whipped cream. I tried one with Banana Stracciatella gelato and it was creamy, thick and flavorful, and who wouldn't enjoy real whipped cream?

Jim allowed me to sample any of the flavors that I desired and I sampled nearly all of them, including flavors such as Chocolate Kahlua Brownie, Almond Coconut, Toasted Almond, Chocolate Sorbet, Stracciatella, Cheesecake with Amarena Cherries, Banana Stracciatella, Lemon Sorbet, Watermelon Sorbet, Pineapple & Orange Sorbet, Caramel and Pistachio. For their Pistachio, they use 100% Sicilian pistachios, and no other filler nuts like some other places do. Pistachios are expensive, which is why some use fillers. This gelato had such a prominent pistachio flavor, tasting exactly like a handful of nuts. It tasted fresh and natural, with a delightful creaminess.

In fact, nearly every flavor I tasted possessed a bright, fresh and natural taste. The fruit sorbets tasted like fresh fruit, and not some artificial flavorings. I very much enjoyed the Watermelon Sorbet and the Lemon Sorbet was quite refreshing. The Caramel, Chocolate, Banana and Vanilla flavors were all bright and delicious too. The Stracciatella presented a smoother, rich and less crunchy chocolate than you find in the usual Chocolate Chip. Even though I am not a huge fan of cheesecake, I enjoyed their Cheesecake with Amarena Cherries.

The only disappointment for me was the Almond Coconut which I felt didn't deliver as prominent a coconut flavor as the other flavors did. All of the other flavors were compelling, and would appeal to any gelato or ice cream lover. This is damn good gelato.

"Invention, my dear friends, is 93% perspiration, 6% electricity, 4% evaporation, and 2% butterscotch ripple."
--Willy Wonka

Jim took me into the kitchen and showed me how they make gelato. They begin with either one of two bases, one white (pictured above) and the other chocolate. The white is mostly whole milk, a little cream, vanilla, and stabilizers. I got to taste both bases and they too delivered strong, rich flavors of vanilla and chocolate. The process allows much creativity, and Jim is always experimenting with different gelato flavors. Above, Jim is preparing to make a Tiramisu ice cream. This raises another aspect of duality, as much of the gelato work is artisan, done by hand, yet the process also include a high-tech component.

Once the gelato mixture has been completed, it is poured into the batch freezer. Jim purchased a Carpigiani batch freezer, from Italy (costing around $30K), a highly advanced machine which ensures a perfect gelato. It only takes about 5-6 minutes to make a batch of gelato, though a bit longer in the morning until the machine has had a chance to get cold enough. With this machine, Jim can make enough gelato during the day to fill his two cases. Most of the gelato flavors are made once a day, and sometimes twice a day. Occasionally, a gelato is left in the case for two days but no longer than that. The nut gelatos are always made at the end of the day so as to not contaminate the other nut-free gelatos. At the end of the day, the machine is then thoroughly cleaned for the next day.

Once the gelato comes out of the batch freezer, it will be placed into a blast chiller, at about -40 degress Celsius, for a short time to prevent the gelato from developing ice crystals.

Pazzo's commitment to the support of the local community takes shape in other ways besides their purchase of local products. They hire co-op students from Greater Lawrence Regional Vocational Technical School to work at the shop. They reduce their carbon footprint by implementing green practices, including working with Black Earth Haulers, a food composting company based in Gloucester, which transports food waste to Brick End Farm in Hamilton to be turned into usable compost for local farms. On the counter, you will even find "community jars" for tips, and the employees donate those tips to different local charities each month.

Though new, Jim still looks to the future, and how he can grow and make Pazzo even better. He will continue to develop and create new gelato flavors. He would like to work with local restaurants and develop special flavors just for them. I think the future looks very bright for Pazzo Gelato Cafe as they are producing a high quality and delicious product. Their gelato flavors will appeal to even the most discerning palate, and they satisfy with their prominent, bright and natural tastes. Kudos to Jim and I wish him the best of luck in his endeavors.

"There is no life I know to compare with pure imagination. Living there, you'll be free if you truly wish to be."
--Willy Wonka

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Rant: Sake Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!

Should Sake be rated by the 100 point system?

Earlier this month, I posted about a recent issue of Wine Spectator (May 21, 2013), which contained articles on Sake, as well as tasting notes for over 50 Sakes. Kim Marcus, Managing Editor, and Bruce Sanderson, Senior Editor, blind-tasted the Sakes, using Bordeaux-style glasses, and did not write about a few Sakes which did not reach their minimum quality level. They grouped the Sakes, all premium, into six categories: Junmai Daiginjo, Junmai Ginjo Junmai, Daiginjo, Ginjo and Honjozo. They did not include in their tasting some of the more unique types of Sake, such as Sparkling Sake, Kimoto/Yamahai, Nigori, and Koshu.

The name of each Sake included the Prefecture, the region of origin, though that is not the usual way Sake names are listed. It is good to include the Prefecture within the description but it would better if it were not within the name as that will only make it more confusing for consumers. For example, if they tried to order a Sake online, they would likely see the Sake name, but maybe not the Prefecture. They might hesitate to order that Sake, believing it is not the same as the one they saw in Wine Spectator.

Rather than evaluate the Sakes by their usual 100 point system, Wine Spectator listed the Sakes as Good, Very Good or Outstanding. Within their tasting notes, they commonly mentioned a brief description of flavors, the aromas and mouthfeel. Kyle of Colorado Wine Press wrote about the Wine Spectator's Sake reviews, noting the lack of numeric scores. Kyle stated, "I think the method was more effective at describing the sake than if they had used points, but I clearly am not an advocate of the 100-pt system."

In the comments section of Kyle's post, Thomas Matthews, the Executive Editor of Wine Spectator, mentioned, "We have much less experience with sake, and felt that broader categories would be more appropriate to express our opinions on their quality. However, I could easily see a critic with deeper experience in sake using the 100-point scale, and perhaps if we taste extensively enough, one day we will too." That explains why they did not use numeric scoring and shows a sense of humility, that they were not trying to claim experience and expertise that they did not possess. Maybe other wine writers could follow their example when tasting wines of which they have little experience.

I have seen a few magazines and critics numerically score Sake but it is relatively uncommon. I would prefer that Sake is not scored in that manner as I believe it could have a negative impact on Sake consumption. I don't see sufficient advantages to numeric scoring to outweigh the potential negatives. Describe it, evaluate it, but don't score it. Why do I feel this way?

First, numeric scores have not made some other niche beverages more commonly popular. For example, let us consider Sherry, a wine that inflames my passion. However, most people still don't drink Sherry, especially the dry versions, and less Sherry is sold in the U.S. than even Sake. Sherry is commonly numerically scored but obviously that is not a guarantee of increased consumption and sales. So why should scores guarantee more Sake consumption? There is no guarantee.

Second, one of the compelling aspects of Sake is its relative low ceiling on its highest prices. Usually, you won't find a Sake for more than $150 a bottle. And the prices are often closely aligned with the costs of producing Sake. There are exceptions but they are rare. Compare that to the wine world where there are plenty of wines costing more than $150. And one of the most significant factors that has led to those high wine prices are numeric scores. I don't want to see Sake prices get inflated merely because they garnered a high score. Higher prices will only drive more consumers away.

Third, numeric scores could promote lazy distributors, store owners and restaurants. As it stands, many of those people and establishments need more basic education about Sake. Learning about Sake is an excellent way for them to be able to sell more Sake, just as wine knowledge helps them sell more wine. They need to invest the time and effort into Sake education, just as they do wine. If these people can just point a customer to a high scoring Sake, there is less incentive for them to learn about Sake. Scores gives them an easy out.

Fourth, what Sake taste profile should critics base their numeric scores upon? In general, American palates prefer aromatic, big, bold and rich flavored Sakes. Is this a side effect of consumers following the perceived wine preferences of Robert Parker? Possibly. On the other hand, the Japanese generally prefer more subtle Sakes, which might have muted aromas, and which may be “as easy to drink as water.” Which style would or should garner high scores? If a prominent critic's numeric scores reward big, bold Sakes, then there could eventually be a backlash against such Sakes as there has been a backlash against Parker style wines. Both styles need to be embraced, and neither style should be promoted over another.

Finally, you can include all of the usual criticisms of the 100 point system to the mix. They are as applicable to Sake as they are to wine. For example, a mere numeric score won't tell you anything about how well that Sake (or wine) will pair with food, or which foods that make the best pairing. And if I pondered the issue more, I am sure I could come up with a few more reasons as well.

To get more consumers to drink Sake, the first and most important thing to do it is to get them to taste premium Sake. Too many consumers have had a bad experience with hot Sake. However, once they taste a good, chilled Sake, their opinion can change. The taste of chilled premium Sake is drastically different from the taste of a cheap, hot Sake. It can be an eye opening experience and is more persuasive than any numeric score or tasting note. Wine stores need more Sake tastings. Restaurants need to offer inexpensive tasting flights of Sake, or hold Sake-paired dinners. The best education is tasting.

Women could end up leading the path to increased Sake consumption. We already know that women purchase more wine than men, and they are often more adventurous in their purchase choices. At the Sake tastings and events I have held, the most popular Sake, and overwhelmingly with women, has been Sparkling Sake. Low in alcohol, lightly sweet and effervescent, Sparkling Sake is kind of the Moscato of the Sake world. It makes for a good gateway Sake, opening the door to the diversity of other Sake types.

Sake doesn't need numeric scores!

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