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Thursday, 5 September 2013

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Posted on 00:00 by Unknown

Posted in Brookline, dorchester, italian cuisine, Italy Wines, Restaurant, spain, Spain Wines | No comments

Friday, 2 August 2013

Bodegas Beronia: 40 Years, With Oak

Posted on 00:00 by Unknown

"To make a great Rioja, one must master the use of oak."
---Christopher Canale-Parola

For over eight years, I've been part of a group of friends who meet weekly and share wine. These are the same guys who I once worked together with on the Real World Winers blog, which I contributed to before the start of The Passionate Foodie blog. There was a love of Spanish wines from the beginning, and when we toast the evening every week, there is a hearty unison of "Rioja!"

One of the first Rioja wines that peaked my interest in Spanish wines was the Marqués de Riscal, and my first higher-end Spanish Rioja, the Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza Reserva, was stunning and made me seek out more higher-end Spanish wines. In 2007, on my second trip to Spain, I visited the Rioja region, stopping at several wineries and enjoying many excellent wines. It was a wonderful place, with such beauty and history, great people and tasty wines.

Last week, Rioja came to Brookline, bringing with it a great sense of history, a couple passionate people, and plenty of delicious wines, accompanied by compelling Spanish cuisine.

Chef Deborah Hansen, the owner of Taberna de Haro, a Spanish restaurant in Brookline, hosted a Rioja event with winemaker Matias Calleja of Bodegas Beronia and Christopher Canale-Parola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Gonzalez Byass and a former winemaker. I previously met Christopher at a recent Sherry tasting, and he was equally as knowledgeable and passionate this time.
The wines of Beronia are imported by The San Francisco Wine Exchange and distributed in Massachusetts by Bay State Wine & Spirits. You definitely should seek out the Beronia wines at your local wine shop.

Pictured here are Christopher Canale-Parola and Matias Calleja.

Back in the 3rd century BC, the region of Rioja was inhabited by a Celtic tribe known as the berones, and they referred to the region as Beronia. The winery chose this ancient term for their name. The winery itself, founded in La Rioja Alta, was established in 1973 by a gastronomic society which wished to produce their own wine. Thus, 2013 is their 40th anniversary and our tasting was partially a celebration of that achievement. At first, the winery only made Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, and found success in their efforts.

With their success, they desired to expand their business and found that Bodegas Gonzalez Byass also sought expansion. With a shared purpose, the twy came together in 1982 and it was then that Matias Calleja was hired. With parents who were growers, Matias has been involved in wine his entire life and has spent 31 years working at Beronia. Though he didn't speak much English, it was clear that this is more than a job to him, that it is a true passion and he couldn't see himself doing anything else.

Bodegas Beronia owns about 20 hectares of vineyards and controls another 850 hecatres, with 200 growers tending the grapes. Approximately 90% of their grapes are Tempranillo and they produce about 430,000 cases annually. They own around 29,500 American, French and mixed oak barrels, having conducted numerous experiments with oak use. They seek mastery of oak for their Rioja and are not afraid to experiment, to test various combinations. Their mixed oak barrels are made from American staves and French oak heads.

Matias has a simple wine making philosophy: "Always think of the consumer." He believes you must evolve with the consumer, though you shouldn't lose the typicity of Rioja. Currently, consumers want natural and healthy wines, and that is important to Beronia. They practice sustainable viticulture, desirous of being as healthy as possible, and are always working toward better sustainability. They also try to reduce wine making manipulation, preferring physical rather than chemical manipulations. Certainly very admirable traits.

Chef Deborah Hansen, who expertly paired our lunch with the wines, stated that "Rioja is like a beautiful woman" and is "soft and sexy." A beautiful woman, whether in simple jeans, a paint stained smock or an elegant dress, still retains her beauty and Rioja is the same. You can put it with anything you want, any type of food, and it still retains that beauty. Deborah is also a fierce Rioja traditionalist and believes that the oak should always remain in the background, and shouldn't dominate the wine.

As we assembled at Taberna de Haro, standing around chatting with each other, we sipped some 2012 Beronia Viura, made from 100% Viura. Crisp, clean and fruity, this was a tasty way to begin the evening. I enjoyed the fresh citrus and peach notes of the wine. A nice choice for summer, and a wine that would pair well with salads, seafood, and light chicken dishes.

Prior to having lunch, there was a tasting of a number of Beronia wines, and these were intriguing comparison tastings, a way to show the influence of oak on Rioja. I began with a comparison of three bottles of 2011 Tempranillo Reserva, which have not yet completed their aging. One wine was matured in French oak, another in American oak and the third in Mixed oak. There were marked differences, especially in the dominance of fruit versus spice, with the mixed oak providing a more balanced taste. This tasting was an excellent way to see how the extracted flavors from different oak treatments influence the same wine.

I then moved onto two other wines, a 2008 Tempranillo Reserva and the 2011 Tempranillo Elaboracion Especial. The Reserva was matured in mixed oak, and provided a nice, balanced taste with tasty red and black fruit flavors, and a spicy backbone. The smooth tannins complemented the lengthy finish, and this was a Rioja you would say is soft and sexy.

On the other hand, the Elaboracion Especial is a more unique wine, and definitely not a traditional Rioja product. It undergoes malolactic fermentation in the barrel and then is aged for about seven months on the lees in the barrel. American oak is used and the barrel toasting is crucial to the taste. The barrels are toasted at lower temperatures over a long time, about 180 degrees Celsius for 26 minutes. This makes the toast penetrate deeper into the barrel, providing more mocha flavors to the wine. This wine was developed based on a lengthy survey of consumer tastes. It is a melding of red fruit and licorice flavors, with mocha, and offers an alluring aroma coupled with a smooth, well balanced and compelling taste. This wine certainly appealed to me and I can see why it is so consumer friendly.

Finally, we ended the tasting with three aged Gran Reservas, from 1982, 1994 and 2006. The 1982 and 1994 wines were matured in American oak while the 2006 was matured in French oak. This was more of a comparison of aging rather than oak treatments, despite the difference in the 2006. Both the 1982 and 1994 were elegant wines, still with plenty of life within them, and presenting complex and compelling tastes. The 1994 was probably my favorite, presenting a bit more fruit flavors, as well as a touch more complexity. It is a wine, from an excellent vintage, that would impress any wine lover. The 2006 Gran Reserva was a much bolder wine, not as elegant, with more upfront spice and fruit. It would be interesting to taste that wine in ten years to see how it develops.

Our lunch began with Albondigas de bacalao, salt cod saffron balls, and Tostas de jamon, tomato toast w Spanish ham The albondigas had a nice salty taste with a crunch to the outside, and creaminess inside. Quite addictive. And the toast and ham were also habit forming. The silky texture of the ham with the thicker texture of the bread, with some nice acidity from the tomato.

With this course, two wines were paired, including one of my favorites of the tasting. The 2010 Old Vines is 100% Tempranillo, from 40 year old vines, is matured for ten months in mixed oak. It was elegant and balanced, smooth and delicious, with a nice melange of fruit and spice. It was deceptively easy to drink, though possessed of intriguing complexity which would make you want to slowly savor a glass. It mesmerized me from the first taste and garners my highest recommendation.

The 2009 Crianza is a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo which has spent 12 months in mixed oak. This is the wine they produce in the biggest volume, and is is extremely popular in Spain. It is young and fruity (cherry, raspberry and licorice), with mild spice notes. An easy quaffer and a perfect wine for burgers, pizza or tapas.

The next course was Cogollos con confit de pato, gem lettuce hearts with house made duck confit, and Pate de conejo, house made truffled rabbit pâté. Fresh lettuce, savory duck, and an earthy pate combined for a compelling dish that paired very well with the Rioja. This dish would have gone very well with the Sherry we tasted recently too.

The next two wines included two that we already tasted, the 2008 Reserva and the 2006 Gran Reserva. The 2008 Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo 3% Graciano, and 7% Mazuelo, and the Tempranillo wines are 40-60 years old. It spent 18-22 months in mixed oak and two years in the bottle. The 2006 Gran Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo 5% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo, and the Tempranillo wines are 80-120 years old.. It spent 24 months in French oak and four years in the bottle.

Next up was Chuleta de cordero (lamb chop with fresh oregano allioli), Piquillos asados (roasted piquillo peppers) and Patatas fritas (French fries). This is a classic pairing, and the savory and tender lamb impressed me. The addition of the peppers and fries added some interesting textures and tastes. The Rioja rocked with this dish and it is easy to understand why it is such a classic.

The final wine of the evening was special, a 1973 Gran Reserva, which was the first wine produced by Beronia. It is classic Rioja, produced in a more old fashioned method, and is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Viura. Viura is a white grape and was once permitted in the making of red Rioja, but that is no longer the case. This was a sublime, complex and intriguing wine, just a pure stunner. The aroma seduced my nose while the taste tantalized my palate. It had strong acidity, lots of red fruit flavors, mild spice and hints of leather and chocolate. It is hard to do justice to this wine, which offers much to a wine lover.

We neded our meal with two tasty cheeses, Payoyo (sheep and goat's milk cheese from Andalucia)
and Guriezo (cow's milk cheese from Asturias), accompanied by Nueces con aceite y miel (walnuts with salt, Spanish olive oil, and honey). Deborah stated that sweeter Rioja pairs well with creamy cheeses. Amazing cheeses, it is always a pleasure to get to taste a new Spanish cheese, one creamy and the other more firm. French cheese may get far more press but Spanish cheeses are worthy of attention, presenting plenty of diversity, great taste and artisan farmers.

Taste and enjoy the wines of Beronia and I bet you'll start toasting a hearty "Rioja!"

Posted in Brookline, Restaurant, restaurant reviews, spain, Spain Wines, Wine Reviews, winery | No comments

Saturday, 9 March 2013

The Flavors of Los Angeles: Cafe Dulce, N/Naka, Night+Market & The Bazaar

Posted on 23:00 by Unknown

From the South Bay to the Valley
From the West Side to the East Side
Everybody's very happy
'Cause the sun is shining all the time
Looks like another perfect day
I love L.A. (We love it)
--Randy Newman, I Love L.A.

As I wandered around the streets of Los Angeles, the lyrics of Randy Newman's paean to L.A. echoed through my mind, and visions of its music video accompanied those lyrics. I spent several days in Los Angeles attending the Design Bloggers Conference, a fun and fascinating event that would not seem my usual interest. However, I was there to make a presentation, How to Differentiate Yourself In a Crowded Online Marketplace, which entailed speaking about Sake and Blogging.

At its most elemental, all of the design bloggers and I are lovers of beauty, just in different areas, so we have much more in common than what it might seem on the surface. That shared aesthetic sense binds us on a deeper level than our mutual use of the same tool, blogging. As I spent time chatting with a number of the attendees, it was clear that we did share much, and that they were eager to learn and share their own passions with me.

While I was in L.A., I enjoyed some delicious meals, snacks and drinks. It was my first time in that city but I would like to return again to check out more of its culinary scene. I only checked out there merest fraction of what the city has to offer. During my culinary experiences, I did not take my usual detailed notes and photographs, desirous more of experiencing the meal and socializing with my dining companions. However, these spots are all worthy of mention.

Adam Japko, the founder of the Design Bloggers Conference, and I wandered around Little Tokyo one afternoon, checking out the sights. This is a great neighborhood with a myriad of Japanese shops, restaurants, and attractions, including the Kinokuniya book store (one of my favorite book shops), Mitsuwa Marketplace and Koyasan Buddhist Temple. One of my favorite finds was the Cafe Dulce, situated in the Japanese Village Plaza.

Cafe Dulce is a coffee shop and bakery that creates a wide variety of baked goods and sandwiches, from roti buns to donuts, cakes to breads. It was a small, clean shop and you could watch them baking numerous items. Service was also very friendly and helpful. A very cool, independent shop. Adam raved about the Vietnamese Style Iced Coffee while I enjoyed some unsweetened iced tea. We tried a couple roti buns (which seem to have a Malaysian origin), including a basic roti and a green tea one. Lightly sweet, they had a slightly crisp outer crust with a softer interior and a very pleasant flavor. They were also very fresh. Think of it as a mildly sweet and flavored bread roll.

What really excited me though were the Bacon Donuts! This was a yeast donut, topped by a sweet glaze and plenty of bacon crumbles. A perfect combination of sweet and salty, atop a soft, fresh donut. Even without the bacon, this would have been an excellent donut. I found them very addictive and bought some to take back to the hotel. I have previously eaten the Maple & Bacon donut at Voodoo Donuts in Portland, OR, but I much prefer this bacon donut. I have never been a big fan of maple, and the lightness of this donut was compelling. They sell other donuts too, some covered with breakfast cereals, green tea donuts, cream filled and more. They looked as good as the bacon donut and I wish I had more time to explore all of the flavors. If you visit or live in L.A., then you must check out Cafe Dulce.

For my first evening in Los Angeles, Adam and I chose a special place to dine, N/Naka, a kaiseki inspired Japanese restaurant which has earned many raves. Adam also ran a contest on Twitter, giving the opportunity for a couple design bloggers to join us for dinner. The winners were Amy, of House of Wentworth, and Kelley, of The Hidden List, both who are from Dallas, Texas. It was a superb evening, with incredible food, great Sake and wine, and very pleasant conversation.

Chef/Owner Niki Nakayama, a Los Angeles native, has trained in Japan, including under Chef Masa Sato in the art of kaiseki. Kaiseki is a traditional Japanese practice, involving a multi-course meal that emphasizes presentation, taste, seasonality, local ingredients and balance. Each dish is a work of beauty, from its presentation to the complexity and balance of its taste. Chef Nakayama's first two restaurants, Azami Sushi Cafe and Inaka, did very well and N/Naka is the natural extension of those two endeavors. Their website states that "..., Chef Niki Nakayama is committed to creating a meal that will engage your attention — it's about enjoying the moment, the current offerings of the season, and ultimately, the food in front of you."

The restaurant is very unassuming from the outside and we drove right by it initially. Inside, it has a more spartan decor, yet provides a warm ambiance. It is a relatively small place, with a limited amount of seating, yet the tables are spaced far enough apart to give some element of privacy. In one room, there is a glass wall showing their wine cellar area and I was excited to see all the Sakes mixed in with the wines. For dinner, you basically have the choice of a nine, ten (vegetarian), thirteen or sixteen course meal, so you need to plan for a 3.5 to 5 hour dining experience. It is well worth your time.

Our server, who actually had only been working for four days, did a very good job, acting very courteously and professionally. The entire service lacked pretension and we were made to feel very welcome by all of the staff. We opted for the 9 course meal and you can check out this menu for more detail of what that can entail. The menus change regularly, especially considering what is seasonally available. Everything was amazing and I cannot recommend N/Naka enough. Enjoy the photos of many of the dishes we savored.

What colors! And love that Uni.

A piece of art.

Very fresh fish, from Big Eye Tuna to Hamachi.

Maybe my favorite dish of the evening, with abalone and garlic.

Incredible Nigiri.

A compelling version of Chawanmushi.

A simple but delicious dessert.

Our drink choices well accompanied the food. We selected a single wine, the 2009 Bodegas Paso Robles "Dona Blanca" ($28), a Grenache Blanc/Malvasia Bianca blend from one of my favorite Paso Robles producers. I previously tasted the 2008 vintage and the 2009 was equally as compelling, with lots of complexity, great flavors and a satisfying finish. Everyone very much enjoyed this wine. And as the wine retails for about $18, the restaurant is offering it at a low markup. Highly recommended!

We started our Sake enjoyment with a glass of the Sawa Sawa Junmai Nigori, a Sparkling Sake, that was lightly sweet, effervescent and fruity. Next, we ordered a bottle of Shichida Yamahai Junmai Karakuchi, a dry, umami rich Sake with elements of anise and licorice on the finish. This would be excellent with mushrooms, beef or other umami-rich dishes.

We ended with a killer Sake which impressed everyone. The Denshin Natsu Daiginjo Nama is a rare Sake, with only 420 bottles made each year. It is produced by the Ippongi Kubo Honten brewery, which was founded in 1902, in the Chubu region of the Fukui prefecture. The brewery sits at the base of Mt. Haku, deep in Echizen, which is known for its crystal clear water. It was made from the famed Yamada Nishiki rice, which was polished to 50%. Incredibly complex, great fruit flavors, crisp, clean and smooth. A "Wow!" Sake, sure to impress, and which all of us loved very deeply. It receives my highest recommendation though it may be difficult to locate.

The next night, a group of about ten of us, went to Night+Market, a Thai street food place. Their website describes the type of food they create: "In Thai, it's called 'aharn klam lao' which roughly translates to 'food to facilitate drinking.' That's at the heart of what we do. We make food for drunkards." Unfortunately, we arrived at the restaurant past 9pm, on a Sunday, and didn't know that the place closed at 10pm. So we were a bit rushed, though the restaurant allowed us to stay a bit past 10pm.

The basic menu includes about 25 different items, from small plates to heartier entrees, and there was a Specials menu with 6 additional items. We selected some dishes and also asked our server to bring us a bunch of his own recommendations. In the end, we received a nonstop parade of dishes, which probably constituted at least 80% of the menu. Overall, the food was quite tasty with only a couple dishes which were merely average. We received a great variety, including many spicy dishes, seafood, pork, beef & vegetables. Be wary as several of the dishes are very spicy and you may need something to mellow the heat in your mouth.

My favorite dishes were the Fried Pig Tails, Beef Grapow and Whole Fish Sam-Rod (with a delectable cripsy skin). Everyone who tried the fried pig tails loved them, though a few people refused to even tast them. Other delicious dishes included the Koi Pla (salmon ceviche), Tendon Panang with Roti, Pad Kee Mao (drunken noodles with short ribs), the Pork Toro (grilled fatty hog collar), and Kar Moo Parlow (braised pork hock). The most disappointing dish was the Nuoc Mam Chicken Wings, which were very ordinary, especially when compared to the wings from Pok Pok in Portland, another Thai street food place.

Service was very good and it is a cool place to grab a bite and a drink. Most of the dishes are very well prepared, with an intriguing blend of spices, and none of the dishes were bad. They were merely ordinary. Night+Market earned my recommendation.

My final dinner of my trip was another small plates restaurant, The Bazaar by Jose Andres, which serves incredible Spanish Tapas. There were about twenty of us, including singer Patti Austin (who was a down to earth and fascinating person). Located in Beverly Hills, the restaurant decor is extremely compelling, chic without being ostentatious.

A tasting menu was prepared for us, with eighteen courses, and we ordered our own wines. Overall, the meal was delicious and certain dishes even brought my mind back to Spain. I liked their creativity as well in the nontraditional tapas. Everyone I spoke to at our table was very pleased with our dinner.

The menu included:
American Caviar Cone (like a salty ice cream cone)
Sweet Potato Chips (excellent!)
Jamon Iberico with Pa'amb Tomaquet (bread topped by rubbed tomato with silky ham)
King Crab Can (served in an actual can, tasty sweet crab meat)
Mussel Can (also served in a can)
Market Fish Ceviche & Avocado Roll
Not Your Everyday Caprese (cherry tomatoes & little balls of mozzarella that squirt in your mouth, so tasty)
Ensaladilla Rusa (potatoes, carrots, tuna belly and mayo)
Bunuelos (codfish fritters, very good)
Papas Canarias (salty wrinkled potatoes with mojo verde, quite addictive snack)
Seared Mary's Farm Chicken (meaty, tender, juicy, cripsy skin, quite compelling)
Catalan Spinach
Wild Mushroom Rice with Idiazabal cheese (creamy, umami rich and also addictive)
Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks (tender, meaty and tasty)
Philly Cheesesteak (very interesting, nontraditional dish)
Pan con Chocolate
Traditional Spanish Flan
Special Chef's Selection Dessert (a mousse-like pudding of some type)

With my meal, I primarily drank Sherry, introducing the rest of our group to some excellent selections. Our first two choices were both from Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, one of my favorite Sherry bodegas. We had the Manzanilla La Gitana and the Amontillado Napoleón, both different in taste yet good choices for the tapas dishes. We also had the E. Lustau Palo Cortado Almacenistas Vides, a superb Sherry with a great depth of flavor which was the favorite of a number of people at dinner. Palo Cortado is one of my favorite types of Sherry and the Almacenista was very well made.

We had excellent service and I was thoroughly impressed with the restaurant. It too receives my highest recommendation.

I left Los Angeles, with a full and satisfied belly, singing "I love L.A."

Posted in Bacon, Bakery, California Wines, donuts, japanese, los angeles, Restaurant, restaurant reviews, Sake, Sake Reviews, sherry, spain, thai, Wine Reviews | No comments

Thursday, 15 November 2012

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The City of Boston and Boston Common welcome Earl of Sandwich, created by the direct descendant of John Montagu, the Earl who invented the sandwich in 1762. Earl of Sandwich had a grand opening earlier this week on November 12.

“We are looking forward to the grand opening of our newest location on the historic Boston Common. As we celebrate 250 years of the sandwich, there is no better location for us than inside the country's oldest city park. It is an honor to be here,” said Robert Earl, chairman of Earl of Sandwich. “The success we’ve experienced at our other 22 locations has proven that the quality of our food and dining experience will bring guests back time and time again.”

In 1762, John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, came up with the ingenious idea of putting meat between two slices of bread. Now, 250 years later, the current 11th Earl and the rest of the Sandwich family remain passionate about the world’s most popular quick food that carries their name. Joining forces with entrepreneur Robert Earl, the first Earl of Sandwich restaurant opened in Orlando, FL at Downtown Disney in 2004.

All Earl of Sandwich locations bake fresh artisan bread with every hot sandwich order and meats are roasted daily using traditional family recipes. The new location will feature signature hot sandwiches including The Original 1762, a sandwich of freshly roasted beef, sharp cheddar and creamy horseradish sauce all on freshly baked artisan bread. Earl of Sandwich will also serve a line of wraps, fresh, hand-tossed salads, high-quality soups, a kid’s menu, and other side items. The restaurant will feature fresh, premise-baked treats – cookies, brownies, muffins, and bites, and Earl of Sandwich will offer a full array of cold beverages, including the delicious Earl’s Lemonade.

Beginning spring 2013, Earl of Sandwich’s breakfast menu, serving a choice of five made-to-order hot breakfast sandwiches, will be available from 8:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. Monday to Friday and 10 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday. The restaurant will immediately offer take-away service.

Earl of Sandwich will be open from 11AM to 4PM, seven days a week (normal hours will resume in spring 2013). There are 14 hot sandwiches available, all priced at $6.99:

2) Owner & Chef Brian Poe is bringing his fall bounty to The Tip Tap Room in Beacon Hill. Poe’s new autumnal infusions take his signature “tips” and “taps” concept to new seasonal heights.

For appetizers, Poe will now offer the following: Baked Brie (St. André brie, coriander-citrus roasted beets, warm mushroom vinaigrette - $11.75); Wild Mushrooms (sautéed with soy-chive vinaigrette, charred tomato tips - $9.75); Boar Meatballs (spicy ginger-cilantro-garlic broth - $13.95); and, a Mashed Sampler (a shareable tasting of horseradish, goat cheese, creamed corn, olive tapenade mashed potatoes - $5). These will add to Poe’s starter mainstays including the Rock Shrimp ($11.75), Potato with 7 Bacon Tips ($10.95) and Cheese & Cracklins ($10.75). Chef Poe also is now offering an Autumn Salad (maple-roasted pecans, roasted pumpkin, blue cheese crumbles, cranberry-sage vinaigrette - $9.95) and Grilled Baby Bok Choy (sauté of snap peas, Thai chilies, caramelized shiitakes, grilled tofu, sesame-soy vinaigrette - $10.95) in addition to the Romaine ($9.95) and Endive, Radicchio & Arugula ($9.95) salads. All salads come with option to add the “tips” of your choice ($6.50; swordfish –$7.50; wild game – $10).

The Tip Tap Room’s “tips” selections features five refreshed proteins and a vegetarian option. In adding to serving up daily wild game creations (including elk, kangaroo, yak, ostrich, pheasant and venison), Poe’s standard “tips” include the following: Turkey (sage-peppercorn marinade, cranberry fennel slaw, creamed corn potatoes - $11.95); Steak (house marinade, horseradish potatoes, cherry pepper, bordelaise - $14.75); Lamb (mint-shallot marinade, minted lamb glaze, goat cheese potatoes, watercress, tzatziki - $15.95); Chicken (lemon-lime-yuzu-herb marinade, rice, cucumber corn slaw - $12.95); Swordfish (artichoke, olive tomato, bell pepper-parsley salsa, tapenade potatoes, haricots verts, citrus-herb cream - $16.95); and, Tofu (grilled vegetables, tomato-basil salad, avocado, spinach - $12.75). Poe also griddles up three burgers available in Steak, Lamb and Turkey preparations.

For some seasonal “taps,” The Tip Tap Room’s kegs are brimming with selections like Harpoon Cider, Ipswich Oatmeal Stout and Sam Adams Octoberfest. Poe is also sure to bring in a rotating selection of seasonal specialty brews that rotate regularly from local breweries.

3) The Mandarin Oriental has recently launched The Parlor, a pop-up afternoon tea lounge. Located fireside in the Lobby Lounge, The Parlor will feature daily visits from the Holiday Treat Trolley, adorned with gingerbread man decoration kits for children, tea sandwiches, sweet confections, old-fashioned hot cocoa from Pastry Chef Oralia Perez, warm apple cider and signature hot toddies. The Parlor will be open from 2pm-6pm daily throughout the holiday season.

Some of the menu items include:
Rum Toddy: Bacardi oakheart rum, lemon juice, clove honey
Apple Toddy: Calvados v.s.o.p., lemon juice, cinnamon, clove honey
Scotch Toddy: Johnny Walker black scotch, domaine de canton
Bourbon Toddy: Makers Mark bourbon, lemon juice, clove honey
Tea Sandwiches
--Foie gras mousse with spiced pear
--Turkey and cranberry
--Smoked duck with apple compote
--Scottish salmon, brown bread, cucumber
Oralia's Pastries
--Eggnog creampuff
--Spiced pear tart
--Grasshopper verrine
--Homemade marshmallows
--Duo of macaroons

4) For the third consecutive year, hundreds of residents of Concord will line Walden Street here to welcome the Largest Wheel of Italian Cheese in the Western Hemisphere. A 400 lb. Crucolo cheese, from a tiny hamlet in the Trentino region of northern Italy, is expected to be at The Cheese Shop of Concord at 29 Walden Street, at 3:30pm on Thursday, December 6. Crucolo is a mild, rindless cow's milk cheese and I find it to be quite a delicious cheese.

The Crucolo will arrive in town via old fashioned horse drawn cart and The Crucolo Dancers, a high-spirited troupe of students from Concord Academy, will prance alongside the horse cart while brandishing large chunks of cheese … and generous free samples of canederli, an authentic northern Italian recipe made with crucolo.

Canederli are bread dumplings which often accompany meat stews and roasts. The word 'canederli', in fact, derives from the German or Austrian 'knödel.' Canederli are 'cucina povera' (cuisine of the poor), as they are made of inexpensive ingredients: stale bread moistened with milk and bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. However, the mixture is often enriched with cheese and speck or prosciutto. There are several variations of this regional dish, but the most common is with cheese. Once the dumpling are cooked, they’re either served "dry" with butter, or in a bowl of broth.

A proclamation will be presented, officially naming it Crucolo Day in The Commonwealth of Massachusetts. The public is invited to attend Crucolo Day and the event will occur rain or shine. You will also be able to have photos taken with the cheese. The crucolo sells for $19.99/lb and last year sold out in less than 14 days.

5) Piperi (pronounced pip-AIR’-ee) is the Greek word for peppercorns, but it's also a new, Mediterranean-inspired, fresh food concept from chef/co-owner Thomas John (former executive chef of Au Bon Pain and Mantra) opening Monday, December 3, on street level at One Beacon Street, in Government Center. Piperi's unique flatbread sandwiches, bountiful salads and mezze plates -- each bursting with nutrition and flavor -- will be made to order, served fast to take out or eat in.

You will find Piperi's find affordable choices listed on on a blackboard menu. First, choose from an array of grilled meats, vegetables or falafel. Next, choose one of several Mediterranean toppings and sauces. Ingredients are then heaped atop one's choice of signature Gozi™ flatbread or crisp greens, or served as a mezze plate with rice pilaf.

Gozi™, baked hourly on the premises, is a modern interpretation of gozleme, a traditional hand-rolled pastry from Turkey. The baking process creates circles in the dough that resemble eyes, or "göz" in Turkish. Gozi is similar to pita, but thinner and bolder flavored.

Piperi is committed to making socially responsible purchasing decisions; its produce is sourced from local grows whenever possible. They use only fresh, carefully chosen and complementary ingredients and spices. Antibiotic-free and humanely-raised chicken and sirloin, never frozen, will be marinated and grilled in small batches to retain their tenderness. Vegetables are roasted a la minute, to preserve color and flavor. Sauces and dressings will be made from scratch on the premises. Cooking is done with virgin olive oil, and with fresh herbs and spices.

Prices generally range from $6.50-$8.00, and they also serve breakfast sandwiches, priced $4.00-$4.50.

6) Chef Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro in Brookline has recently expanded her restaurant. I was there recently and the additional space is very cool with a nice bar. The restaurant now stocks even more Spanish wines, over 300, and has expanded their Sherry list to 27, with more to be added. That means they probably have the largest Sherry selection of any other local restaurant. Big kudos to Chef Hansen for her Sherry passion and promotion.

In addition, Taberna de Haro now offers a special Roasted Suckling Pig dinner on Tuesdays. They obtain the pigs, a Yorkshire-Hampshire cross breed, from a co-operative farm in upstate New York. The pigs weigh only about 16 lbs. and the roasting process takes over 4 hours, creating a crackling crispy skin. The dish costs only $25 per person and comes with potatoes and carrots roasted in the pan drippings. As there are only about 16 portions per pig, you should get there early to ensure you get a portion. If you have ever had roasted suckling pig in Spain, you know how delicious that dish can be. I will visit Taberna de Haro soon to check out this dish.

7) On December 11, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods will prepare to welcome the New Year with their final Legal Holiday of the season: Goodbye 2012, Hello 2013. Legal Sea Foods will dish and pour a three-course pairing menu filled with holiday cheer in Park Square’s 10,000 bottle wine cellar.

FIRST COURSE
Fried Oyster Fritter (ancho-tamarind aioli)
Simmonet-Fevbre Cremant de Bourgogne, NV
SECOND COURSE
Wood Grilled Swordfish (roasted quinoa salad, black mission fig compote) DeMorgenzon "DMZ" Shiraz, Stellenbosch, 2009
THIRD COURSE
Crispy Cinnamon Bunuelos (dulce de leche, vanilla ice cream)
Fonseca 10 Year Tawny Port

Cost: $40 per person (does not includes tax and gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

Posted in Boston, Brookline, cheese, concord, meat, pork, Restaurant, sherry, spain, Spain Wines, tea | No comments

Thursday, 1 November 2012

Tres Gatos: Sherry Tuesdays

Posted on 00:26 by Unknown

"There are only two kinds of sherry, the good and the better."
--Jerez saying

I am a huge fan of Spanish Sherry, have previously visited the Jerez region and written over a couple dozen posts about Sherry. It is an under-appreciated wine, and not enough people in the U.S. drink dry sherry. Sweet sherry is much more popular, but even that still occupies a tiny niche. In Spain though, dry sherry is dominant.

As an example of the Spanish love for dry Manzanilla, let us look at the Sevilla Feria, the famed Spring Festival of Seville, the capital of Andalucia. At this event, attendees drink approximately 600,000 bottles of Manzanilla over the course of only six days!

I was pleased to hear that Tres Gatos Tapas Bar, a restaurant, book and music store, is introducing Tuesday Night Sherry Tastings. Wine Director Keith Harmon and Executive Chef Marcos Sanchez have teamed up to introduce Sherry flights every Tuesday. For only $15, guests can enjoy a selection of three 1oz. pours of Sherry paired with 3 various pinchos. The flights will change from week to week, but examples of a possible pairing could include something such as:

Grant "La Garrocha" Fino / Boquerones & Olives
El Maestro Sierra Amontillado / Lomo Serrano
El Maestro Sierra "Amaroso" / Shropshire Blue Cheese

Tuesday Sherry Tastings will begin October 30, and be held from 5:30pm-10pm. For more information or to make a reservation, please call Tres Gatos at 617-477-4851.

I have yet to dine at Tres Gatos though have heard many good things about the restaurant. I will have to make it there now, especially to check out Sherry Tuesdays. Kudos to Tres Gatos for helping to promote this wondrous Spanish wine.

Posted in jamaica plain, Restaurant, sherry, spain, Spain Wines | No comments

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Moxy: Tapas, Local & New England

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown

It is an intriguing concept: Spanish-inspired tapas, local ingredients and a New England flair. But how does that concept fare in its execution? Does it mesh well or is it a disaster of discordant elements? The answer depends greatly on the culinary skills of the chef and at a new restaurant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Chef Matt Louis has created a winning combination.

On May 4, Chef Matt Louis and restaurateur Jay McSharry opened Moxy in downtown Portsmouth. The restaurant, with a casual and fun ambiance, seats over 90 people, including 12 at their bar and 14 at a communal table. It also has an open kitchen where you can watch them prepare your dishes. There is plenty of parking nearby and the downtown is a great place to walk around before or after dinner, to check out the nearby shops. Last week, I attended a media dinner at Moxy and actually drove up to Portsmouth early so I could wander around and check out the downtown.

Chef Louis, pictured above, has an impressive culinary resume, having graduated from The Culinary Institute of America. He has worked under famed Chef Thomas Keller at Bouchon and The French Laundry, and also assisted in the opening of Per Se in New York City. He moved on to Wentworth by the Sea Hotel and Spa and later toured Europe, including staging at famed Noma in Copenhagen. He has also staged at Momofuku KO, Torrisi, and Eleven Madison. I think it is a sign of the growing culinary importance of Portsmouth that it attracts chefs of such a caliber.

As Chef Louis contemplated opening his own restaurant, he knew that he needed to begin with a concept, to give a solid foundation to the endeavor. He did not want to spend many months working at a restaurant trying to discover what it should be. Instead, he wanted the main idea to be there from the start, and then work at honing that concept over time. His desire was to create a small plates restaurant, serving tapas-like dishes, but with an homage to New England and a strong emphasis on local ingredients. This would be a challenge to his creativity, and hopefully something that would appeal to diners. It would also be more representative of the style of Chef David Chang rather than Chef Keller.

Sourcing locally is vitally important to Chef Louis and most of his ingredients are sourced from northern New England. Chef Louis also seeks items such as sustainable seafood and humanely raised, organic beef. He states: "Any good chef is going to use a good amount of local produce. But with Moxy I started digging really deep and making connections with farmers. Through this process I really became exposed to what is out there." The Winter Farmers Market in Dover, New Hampshire will be very important to him in the coming months.

On the walls behind the bar, there are wooden plaques (pictured above) that identify the local farmers and producers they use, which is a great way to promote these producers as well as be transparent about sourcing. As Chef Louis relies on local ingredients, replicating Spanish-style tapas becomes an exercise in creativity as a number of typical Spanish ingredients, such as Marcona almonds and chick peas, are not available. This also leads to most of the dishes having a unique story behind them, the interesting details of their origin.

I had a chance to talk with Chef Louis for a short time, and he is an unassuming chef, especially considering his impressive resume. He lacks any pretension and the casual ambiance of this restaurant reflects this aspect. It is clear that he is passionate about his restaurant, and that local sourcing and sustainability is important to him and it is not merely a marketing stunt. He is also obviously innovative and creative, and I think Moxy will only continue to get better with time. This is a chef and restaurant to watch in the future.

I also spent a fair amount of time speaking with James Woodhouse, the Bar Manager and a certified sommelier, who also was our server for much of the dinner. Most recently, James worked as the restaurant manager at No.9 Park. James was personable, attentive and passionate too, fine qualities for any restaurant employee. The restaurant has a full bar, with a craft cocktail program and numerous beers and wines. James has been very selective in the choices for their beverage program.

Many of the cocktails were inspired by pre-Prohibition drinks, and they often rely on local ingredients as well as fresh herbs and juices. Cocktails average about $8 and you will find plenty of interesting choices, including plenty you might not have heard of before. We began the evening with the Great Bay Martini, their signature house cocktail, which is made with Rain organic vodka, lavender simple syrup, and fresh lemon juice. It had a summery taste to it and was nicely balanced, without being overly sweet or too tart.

They even created a new cocktail for us that evening, a take on the La Perla which usually is made with Tequila, Fino Sherry and pear liqueur. Their version included Silver Tequila, an Oloroso rather than a Fino Sherry, and some Broadbent Malmsey Madeira. It had a unique taste and you could discern the different ingredients if you really paid attention. A bit of that tequila bite, with a certain nuttiness and a fuller mouth feel. A nice match for their Spanish style tapas.

They carry a list of about 20 beers, with a fair number of local beers from New Hampshire and Maine. Many of the beers are priced at $4-$7 though they have some higher end beers, in larger formats, that cost up to $19 per bottle. Beer lovers should find numerous brews of interest.

For wine lovers, you will find that their list has about 13 wines available by the glass ($7-$10) and about 45 by the bottle (averaging $30-$60). It has an American focus, though you will find a number of wines from all over the world, from Spain to New Zealand, from France to Austria. There are plenty of interesting options, from Austrian Gruner Veltliner to Carneros Roussanne, from Spanish Mencia to California Fiano. They even carry Sherry, Port and Madeira, all which makes me happy. In the future, they will host wine and beer dinners.

My only issue with their wine list is its lack of local wines, which runs counter to the general philosophy of the restaurant. The only local item currently on the wine list is the NV Farnum Hill Farmhouse Cider, made in New Hampshire, and they also have a Riesling from the Finger Lakes. But this is an issue of which they are aware and which they are attempting to remedy. James is engaged in research to find quality, local wines and I suspect they will add some to their list in the near future. So I am hopeful this issue will be resolved.

The food menu changes frequently, due to the availability of ingredients as well as the creation of new items, so that almost every other day there is some type of change to the menu. The menu is divided into three main sections, Regional Pinchos ($4-$6), American Bocadillos ($10-$12), and Modern American Tapas ($4-$16). There is plenty of diversity, from vegetarian dishes to meat and seafood, and the small plate concept is a compelling one. I love the ability to order a bunch of small dishes so I can try many different foods, and it is a fun, communal experience to share plates. It can make for an intimate date, or an enjoyable time with a group of family or friends.

Initially, as we waited for everyone in our party to arrive, we stood around, sipping Great Bay Martinis and nibbling on some passed pinchos. The Fried Clams ($5) with pickled peppers, cocktail onions, and Raye’s mustard alioli, were clean, crisp and tasty. The Grilled Peaches ($4) with melted terrene and caramelized spring onions, were juicy and fresh with a nice tang. But my favorite was the Apple Cider Lacquered Pork Belly ($5), with grilled Maine cherry tomatoes and marinated watermelon. Perfectly tender, buttery fat, and bursting with exquisite flavors. The perfect mouthful. Plus the tomatoes and watermelons were their own fine bites of fresh juiciness.

Once we sat down at the communal table, we received what seemed like an endless wave of tapas. Though they are small bites, they certainly can fill you up. We began with "Something To Snack On" ($4), pumpkin-sunflower seed granola bites with chili scented crispy kale. This is mean to be a rough substitute for Marcona almonds, a common bar snack in Spain. It had a nutty taste, with hints of saltiness, but also a bit of sweetness as well. I think it is a clever creation.

The Fried Wake Robin Tomatillos ($4) are accompanied by a grilled corn creme and remind me of a fried green tomato. The exterior coating is crunchy and light, hiding the juicy tomatillo inside, and those juices did not make the coating soggy at all. A delightful dish.

The Hasty Pudding "Frites" ($5) use corn ground in Maine and resembles polenta. They are accompanied by a molasses BBQ sauce and buttermilk dip. Once again, the fried coating was perfectly crunchy and clean, with a strong corn flavored interior. I enjoyed the BBQ sauce better than the buttermilk.

The Salt Cod Fritters ($5) come with yogurt marinated cucumbers and sunflower “tahini,” carrot salad. The cod is locally sourced, line caught, and nearly all of their seafood is local. They are concerned about seafood sustainability. Another winning dish, this fritter will match up well against salt cod fritters from most anywhere. Such a fine small bite.

The Swan Island Mussels ($6) came with blackeyed peas, Popper's sausages, grilled bread and a maple flavored broth. Though I liked the mussels, I was not crazy about the broth as it was too sweet, and I thought the maple flavor was overpowering.

One of my favorite dishes was the Beef Short Rib Marmalade ($5) with grilled bread, pickled onions, and Great Hill Bleu Cheese. The beef comes from a local co-op and they prepare it with five reductions of stock. It is not really a "marmalade," more just superb braised beef, tender and flavorful, and enhanced by the delectable tang of the cheese. I had a small glass of Ruby Port with this dish and it was an excellent pairing. Highly recommended.

Michele's Fried Egg Dish is a mix of potatoes, peppers and a local fried egg. This would be an excellent breakfast dish, and I loved the gooey yolk spreading across the rest of the food.

The Sausage, Peppers & Onions ($5) is an uncured pepperoni with sauteed spicy sweet peppers, spring onion and Raye’s whole grain mustard. The pepperoni, like some of the other meat served at the restaurant, is from Popper's Artisanal Meats, located in New Hampshire, which emphasizes hormone free, humanely raised, animals. This was a delicious pepperoni, spiced perfectly, and loaded with flavor. Another highly recommended dish.

The Roasted Monk Fish ($13) has a sunflower-dandelion “pesto,” tempura red onion, and grilled Maine cherry tomatoes. The fish was tender and the pesto was very intriguing, working well with the fish. The tempura onion added some nice texture to the dish.

The Roasted New Hampshire Beets & Greens ($8) come with herbed creme fraiche, pea tendrils, and crispy onions. Not my type of dish, but the others at the dinner seemed to very much enjoy it.

The Grilled New Hampshire Corn ($6) is prepared with Brookford cheddar, a tomato vinaigrette, and chili alioli. (My photo of this dish came out poorly). I am a huge fan of grilled corn and this version was a winner. All of the flavors meshed well together, and presented a different profile than other grilled corns you might have had at places like Toro. The corn was naturally sweet, and there was a nice acidic bite to it as well. Definitely order this dish.

The Johnny Cake Community ($14) was inspired by Chef David Chang's Bo Ssam, a roasted pork shoulder with lettuce wraps and condiments. Chef Louis prepared a brown-sugared pork shoulder with crispy onions, pickled cucumbers, a hot sauce and Moxy BBQ sauce. Rather than just lettuce wraps, he chose to add a New England flair, to use Johnny Cakes, cornmeal pancakes, but chose to make them thinner than what is traditional. I loved this idea and the tender pork was moist and flavorful, the thin pancake being a nice accompaniment. I really enjoyed their BBQ sauce too and give this dish my highest recommendation as well.

A similar dish is the Misty Knoll Farms Pan-Seared Chicken Thighs ($13) with creme fraiche, hot sauce, pickled ginger, cilantro, and lettuce wraps. The shredded chicken was amazing: moist, flavorful and with a delicious crispy skin. I enjoyed the hot sauce, which had a nice spicy kick but wasn't overpowering. Another highly recommended dish.

They have several dessert options (most about $8) and based on the two I tasted, I would come to Moxy just for dessert and drinks. The Fried Dough ($8) comes with chocolate sauce, maple caramel sauce, peach compote, and apple compote. As my regular readers know, I am not a fan of powdered sugar, but it was easy enough to shake most of it off the fried dough. The fried dough itself is thin and crispy, a fine platform for a mix of toppings. It wasn't greasy at all, and would have been good with a scoop of ice cream atop it too.

And then Whoopie Pie Sliders ($8)! I have often decried the current cupcake mania, wondering why other desserts, like whoopie pies, have not had their place in the spotlight. Accompanied by chocolate sauce, though these don't really need it, the whoopie pies were impressive. A moist chocolate cake with a soft, light, cream between the cakes. Though decadent, these whoopie pies seem light and are a perfect ending to the evening.

Service was excellent and I think the food is reasonably priced for its quality and quantity. The concept is compelling and well executed, and Chef Louis has created an exciting new restaurant in Portsmouth. Though only four months old, it has already found its groove and I suspect it will continue to improve over time. It is well worth the drive to Portsmouth, and would be perfect for a weekend excursion. I certainly plan on returning to sample more of their tapas and it receives my highest recommendation.

Posted in chef, cocktails, New Hampshire, portsmouth, Restaurant, restaurant reviews, spain, sustainability | No comments

Wednesday, 2 May 2012

Kika Tapas and Tapena Wine

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown

Spanish tapas and wine? ¡Si, Por Favor!

A representative of Tapena Wines invited a couple local bloggers to try some of their wines over lunch at Kika Tapas in Cambridge. Kika Tapas, which opened last December, is owned by the proprietors of Dali, one of my favorite Spanish restaurants. So, I certainly had high expectations for this restaurant. And overall, my expectations were met and I would recommend that my readers check it out.

The restaurant has more of a modern, hip look and the curved booths are very comfortable. It has a different ambiance than Dali, but still is appealing. Much of their food menu is similar to Dali, with plenty of tapas, but they offer some different dishes as well. In addition, they are open for lunch, and serve bocadillos, sandwiches, for lunch. Tapa prices generally range from $5-$10. Their wine list has plenty of Spanish options, and they serve authentic Sherry as well. Plus, you will find a variety of cocktails, beers and Sangria.

The Pão de Queijo is Brazilian Cheese & Tapioca Flour Bread, kind of like a thicker and cheesier Gougere. Tasty and I wish I had even more of these.

The Queso de Cabra Montañes is Baked Goat Cheese in Tomato Basil Sauce, a creamy and tangy dish that is especially good spread over a slice of bread.

The Patatas Bravas are Spicy Potatoes, giving a nice kick to roasted potatoes.

One of my favorite tapas is the Gambas al Ajillo, Sizzling Garlic Shrimp, which is another great place to dip your bread, as well as slather on the garlic slices. A simple but compelling dish.

The Albóndigas de Cordero, Lamb Meatballs in Truffle Cream Sauce, were also delicious, moist meatballs in an intriguing sauce with hints of earthiness. Once again, said some bread for dipping into the sauce.

The Lomito al Cabrales, Pork Loin with Cabrales Blue Cheese Sauce & Mushroom, satisfied with its tender, thin pork slices, tangy blue cheese sauce and earthy mushrooms. I would have loved a Kimoto/Yamahai Sake with this dish.

Service was excellent and I will definitely return here to check out more of the menu. Dali will remain my favorite of their restaurants, but Kika will solidly take the second position.

"What's the secret of good wine? There isn't one. The land and the vines give us their best, while we contribute all our skills of refinement, along with experience and ingenuity."
--José Ferrer Sala

The Freixenet company, which produces the Tapeña Wines, is a Spanish company which has expanded to include wineries in California, Argentina and Australia. Freixenet has been producing wine since 1861 and its first export market was the U.S. back in 1935. The name "Freixenet" derives from a term referring to a place where ash trees grow. They have been producing Cava since 1915 and their black bottled Freixenet Cavas are a common sight in many wine stores, though only two countries actually sell the black bottle still, the U.S. and Japan.

We started off our meal with glasses of the Freixenet Cordon Negro Extra Dry, a blend of the three usual Cava grapes, Macabeo, Paralleda, and Xarello, and made in the Methode Champenoise. It takes about 3.5 years from harvest to the release of Cordon Negro. This was a pleasant Cava, very dry but with some nice fruit flavors and lacking the yeastiness of some other sparkling wines. Clean, crisp and refreshing, it was a nice apertif.

Tapena Wines was started five years ago, with the intent of creating fruit forward, food-friendly Spanish wines. The term "tapeña" is a mix of "tapas" (small dishes of food) with "peña" (slang for a group of close friends). They make four wines, a Verdejo, Rosé, Tempranillo and Garnacha, and they are Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla, which means production is more flexible than under the regulations of the Denominacion de Origen system. The label is designed to look like a chalkboard, the type you would see at a Spanish restaurant presenting the daily specials, and the fork represents that they are food friendly.

All of the grapes are purchased, and no oak is used in the production of the wines. I like the fact that they only use indigenous Spanish grapes for their wines. They produce about 40,000 bottles each year, about 40% of them being Tempranillo, and they will be changing to screw caps in the near future. A 750ml bottle sells for about $8-$10, making these very affordable wines. But, are they also good values? Too many wines in that price range are simple wines without any character, drinkable but nothing special. So how does Tapena compare to these others?

The Tapena Garnacha was quite compelling, a delicious blend of bright red fruits with spice notes and smooth tannins. Very easy drinking but with plenty of character for a wine at this price point. It was not a simple, one-note wine, and was such a pleasant surprise. It is the type of wine which can be enjoyed on its own or paired with food. It would be great with burgers to pizza, BBQ to pasta. Definitely a very good value.

The Tapena Tempranillo, a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha, was also tasty, showing more plum and black cherry flavors with milder spice notes but a bit more earthiness. Its tannins were a bit stronger than the Garnacha but still well within control. It too possessed more character than many other wines at this price point and also presents a very good value. I would generally prefer this wine paired with food due to its tannins.

Tapena is producing some excellent value wines, and these should appeal to many consumers. Wine lovers should enjoy these food friendly wines. They exceeded my expectations and earn my recommendation. Now I just need to check out their Rosé!

Posted in Cambridge, Restaurant, restaurant reviews, spain, Spain Wines, Wine Reviews | No comments

ShrimpTempura

Thursday, 5 September 2013

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Friday, 2 August 2013

Bodegas Beronia: 40 Years, With Oak

Saturday, 9 March 2013

The Flavors of Los Angeles: Cafe Dulce, N/Naka, Night+Market & The Bazaar

Thursday, 15 November 2012

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Thursday, 1 November 2012

Tres Gatos: Sherry Tuesdays

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Moxy: Tapas, Local & New England

Wednesday, 2 May 2012

Kika Tapas and Tapena Wine

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