Decanter Power List: Omissions & Influence

Which individuals in the wine industry possess the greatest influence over the wines you drink?

The answer depends on numerous factors, as well as what limitations you place upon that answer. For example, are you restricting your answer to only the United States, or do you include the entire world? How do you determine which individuals are influential? Is influence measured solely by how many bottles of wine are sold? This is a complex area, yet numerous people and companies have taken a stance on trying to answer the initial question.

Decanter Magazine has offered their own answers in the latest edition of their Power List. This list, which comes out every two years, is in its fifth edition. They select the "50 most important people who influence what’s in your glass today" and claims that the "list is as objective as it is possible to be." Can such a list truly be objective? It would seem the complexity of the question would have to interject a good measure of subjectivity into the answers.

You can check out the people listed in The Decanter Power List 2013 and many of those names probably won't be much of a surprise. I am sure there are individuals on the list you will disagree with, and you probably believe deserving people were omitted. The significant number of individuals with connections to China and the rest of Asia seems to indicate the growing importance of this region. However, what intrigued me more were the people who were not on the list.

In their last list, The Decanter Power List 2011, the Amateur Wine Blogger was ranked at #16 yet they did not even make the 2013 list. Why is that the case? Is the influence of wine bloggers decreasing? If so, why? Or is it merely the perception that wine bloggers have lost much of their influence over the last couple years?

In the 2011 list, there were six women and in the 2013 list, the number of women remained the same. Four of those women, including Jeannie Cho Lee MW, Gina Gallo, Jancis Robinson, and Annette Alvarez Peters, were on both lists. Why aren't there more women on this list? You might expect to see at least a couple more women added each edition, but that wasn't the case with the latest 2013 edition.

The 2011 list also presented seven names of people to watch for in 2013, who could end up on the Power List for "reflecting the trends seen in the main list, and expected to proliferate over the next two years." These individuals included Ian Harris, Eric Asimov, Simon Tam, Debra Meiburg MW, Ryan Anderson Opaz, Bill Foley and Bruno Paillard. Not one of those seven people though actually made it on the 2013 list. Why is that the case? Have they not proliferated sufficiently? Has their influence actually decreased during the last two years? I should also not that none of these people even made the 2013 list of people to watch.

In 2013, they selected five people to watch for in 2015, and that includes Antonio Galloni, Daniel Johnnes, Edouard Moueix, Patricio Tapia and Alejandro Vigil. Will any of them actually make it on the 2015 list, or will they fade away like the people to watch of 2011?

What are your thoughts on the Decanter Power List?

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Sequoia Grove Winery: Michael Truijlllo, A Forte With Fermentation

"Fermentation is a more important discovery than even fire."

With a jolly smile, Michael Trujillo, the President & Director of Winemaking at Sequoia Grove Winery wanted to emphasize his passion for winemaking, using a bit of hyberole to make his point. That passion was evident in much Michael said at dinner earlier this week at Grill 23 and Bar.

I was invited, along with two other writers (James Campanini, editor at the The Lowell Sun, and Anne Banas, executive editor at Smarter Travel) to meet Michael Trujillo for dinner and get the opportunity to taste three of his wines. Joining us was also Mark Carnucci, a manager for the distributor Kobrand Fine Wine & Spirits. Michael was personable, charismatic, open and passionate.

It was a very pleasant evening of excellent conversation, food and wine. To Michael, the importance of wine and food cannot be underestimated, as he feels it permeates many aspects of our lives. He is also pleased to think that 90% of the wines that come off his bottling line will lead to happy occasions. Wine is most often a source of pleasure, not despair, so it plays an important function in our lives. We all can use a bit more joy in our lives so why not let wine bring us some?

Let us start with a little history lesson. In 1979, the Sequoia Grove Winery was founded by Jim Allen in the Rutherford AVA in Napa Valley. The vineyard consisted of 22 acres and Jim consulted with some legendary winemakers such as Andre Tchelistcheff and Tony Soter. In 1982, Michael Trujillo started working with Jim and by 1991, Michael would also start his own small brand, Karl Lawrence, which he continues to produce. In 1998, Michael became the Assistant Winemaker at Sequoia, though the 1990s were a challenging time for the winery. In 2001, Jim retired and the Kopf family, who had been partners since 1985, took control of the winery and they placed Michael in charge of winemaking operations.

Michael grew up on a Colorado ranch and stated that he spent much of his early years behind the wheel of a tractor. He credits his father with instilling in him a strong work ethic. He is also very proud of his Spanish heritage, being able to trace his ancestors back to the mid-1500s when they settled in the area of Santa Fe, New Mexico. In response to one of my questions, Michael said that no one has ever inquired about his heritage, and he believes he is one of the few winemakers with a direct Spanish ancestry. Michael also mentioned that he currently is on a kick, seeking out value Spanish Tempranillo wines.

Since Michael took charge of winemaking operations at Sequoia, great change has come to the winery. For one, in 2003, Molly Hill, a UC Davis graduate, was taken on as an assistant winemaker and would eventually, in 2008, become the winemaker. Another important step, in 2006, was the acquisition of the 48-acre Tonella Estate Vineyard, which they replanted with select Cabernet Sauvignon clones. Tonella's first harvest was in 2010, and it is allowing Sequoia to transform from a winery which once purchased about 80% of their grapes to a winery which will soon be using about 80% estate fruit. The original 22 acre Sequoia vineyard is planted primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon, about 85%, and the rest has Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

To Michael, purchasing such a large percentage of grapes put them at the mercy of inflation, as well as the vineyards who might or might not choose to sell them grapes in any particular year. For more independence, and as a potentially cost-cutting measure, he knew that growing more of their own grapes was necessary. However, he doesn't want to use 100% estate fruit, as he wants the flexibility of being able to purchase grapes to help in his blends. His vineyards are not the best source for all types of grapes, so he would prefer to buy other grapes from where they grow best.

Their vineyards are fairly organic, though not certified, as Michael has issues with certification laws. He understands that such laws are often too broad, that federal definitions allow much leeway, allowing for some practices that others might not consider to be organic. Michael also feels that the Rutherford region has the best microclimate for Cabernet Sauvignon, and that Rutherford Cabernets reflect its terroir. Famed winemaker André Tchelistcheff once said that "It takes Rutherford dust to grow great Cabernet." You will find some famous vineyards in this AVA, including Beaulieu Vineyards, Caymus, and Grgich Hills Estate. To Michael, the typical Rutherford Cabernet is silky, fruit forward and with a dusty/earthy element to it.

Michael's personal philosophy is that "everything in our life comes back to wisdom and experience." This is applicable to all aspects of life, including winemaking. He values his mentors in the winemaking industry and now possesses 30 years of his own experience. He continues to perfect his winemaking style each year, and states that much of what he does is by feel and taste, based on his lengthy experience in the field. He may used technology at times, but is not wholly reliant on it and believes he could still make great wine without it.

One of his greatest lessons was provided by Andre Tchelistcheff, who use a tea brewing analogy to make him understand the process of fermentation. Andre took Michael to the top of a fermentation tank, explaining how the process is similar in respects to steeping tea. As you steep your tea, you constantly taste it to determine when it is at its optimal flavor. The same goes with fermentation, that taking it continually will allow you to know when it is ready. You don't need a slew of scientific instruments to tell you when your wine is ready.

Michael believes there are not many bad wines on the market any longer, but he also feel that far too often there is "too much frosting on the cake." He means that there is too much manipulation of wine, which obscures its sense of place. Part of that problem he attributes to the 100 point scoring system, which tends to lead to bigger, overmanipulated wines. To Michael, a "great wine is about balance" and it is those balanced wines which will age the best. His goal is to produce wine with a sense of place, that shows the varietal and which possess a sense of balance.

Michael's winemaking style is more Old World except that he brings in some California sunshine. He finds some Old World wines to be too rustic and wants to take advantage of the fine California weather. It would be a disservice not to take advantage of what California weather brings to the vineyards. Michael believes that his forte is fermentation, and that with white wines, everything happens within those roughly ten days of fermentation.

His goal is to "build a house brick by brick," to allow the winery growth to be slow and steady. He wants his customers to be able to expect consistency from year to year. He does not want to become the next Screaming Eagle, but rather would like to be the next Silver Oak or Cakebread, two brands which he feels followed that slow and steady pattern.

The biggest challenge he faces is getting people to taste his wines, to get to know his brand. Michael feels that his wines over deliver for their price and are as good as any other high-end California Cabernets. He feels his wines are competitive on the market, and continue to improve each year. Because of this, he ensures that the winery tasting room remains unpretentious, that it is a welcoming place for all.

Michael is not a fan of the "one man critic," preferring when wines are assessed by panels or groups. His best advice for consumers is to "build a relationship with a local retailer." Consumers need to be open minded, willing to take recommendations from their retailer so that they can learn about the wine types and styles they prefer.

Sequoia wines are currently exported across the world, and Japan is one of their best foreign markets. They have chosen not to aggressively court the Chinese market, but see lots of potential in the international market. Within the U.S., they obviously are strong in California, but they also do very well on the East Coast. Currently, only three of their wines are available for sale in Massachusetts through Horizon Beverage Company and I got to sample all three. Michael, like most California winemakers, noted that the 2012 vintage was great, and will lead to many great wines. However, though many winemakers say 2011 was a challenging vintage, Michael feels that his 2011 vintage red wines are close to perfection.

We began with the 2011 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Chardonnay ($28), which is produced from 100% Chardonnay which spent 10 months sur lie in 35% new French oak barrels. The wine underwent minimal manipulation and no malolactic fermentation. Michael stated that the French use malolactic to tame the acidity in their Chardonnays but that California wineries don't need to do so, or only to a minimal level. However, French chardonnay ages much better than California and Michael feels that keeping a California Chardonnay for five years might be pushing it. He also feels that California really doesn't need to age their Chardonnay, that they shouldn't try to be something they are not.

The wine is produced in more of a French style and possesses a crisp and fresh taste with appealing flavors of apple, lemon and melon, with elements of toast and minerality, especially on the finish. It has a bit of richness to it, and Michael suggested it would pair best with oilier fish, or seared scallops as the caramelization would work well with the wine. I had some oysters with the Chardonnay, and it wasn't the best pairings due to the brininess of the oysters. It was still a tasty wine, with sufficient complexity to make it interesting as well.

For my entree, knowing we had two Cabernet based wines ahead of us, I went for the beef, a 100 Day Aged Ribeye. An excellent hunk of steak, it possessed a strong and savory taste, full of flavor and a perfect companion to the red wines.

The 2009 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($38) is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 6% other Bordeaux varieties. The wine spent about 20 months in 45% new American oak barrel and has an alcohol content of 14.2%. It is their "workhouse," wine, the one of which they produce the most each year. This dark purple colored wine possesses an alluring aroma of subtle black fruit and spice, and on the palate it presents as silky and elegant, with delicious flavors of black cherry, ripe plum, subtle spice, vanilla and hints of leather. A well balanced wine, the smooth tannins lead to a lengthy and satisfying finish. Paired with the steak, it was a worthy companion. Impressive and highly recommended.

One of their higher end products is the 2008 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cambium ($140), whose name refers to the layer, the growing layer, of a tree between the bark and the wood. The blend, which varies year to year, is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Though the blend often would qualify to be labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon, Michael wants the flexibility to go against that blend if he feels it is warranted. 2008 was a challenging vintage. This wine spent 22 months in 100% new French oak, was aged two years in the bottle and possesses an alcohol content of 14.4%. This wine is intended to compete with wines such as the Caymus Special Selection.

This inky dark wine has a more intense aroma than their basic Cabernet, with rich black fruit, dark spice and hints of mocha. Again, it is a silky, elegant and well balanced wine with complex and deep flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, blackberry, vanilla, toast and subtle, and almost elusive, hints of other flavors that tantalize your palate, including an underlying earthiness. The tannins are smooth and well integrated, the finish is incredibly long and pleasing, and the wine impresses with its intriguing complexity and depth of flavors. It also was a superb accompaniment to my steak and I am sure this wine would impress most wine lovers. It is pricey but is worthy of a splurge for a special occasion.

I ended the evening with some Famous Coconut Cake, accompanied by pineapple sherbet and coconut dulce de leche. This sizable slice is large enough to share with another person or two, and was moist and flavorful, with plenty of coconut, satisfying my love of coconut.

It has been maybe ten years or so since I last tasted a wine from Sequoia Grove, so it was enlightening to taste them again after all of this time. The wines clearly have improved greatly and Michael's vision and philosophy seem to be pivotal to those changes. Sequoia Grove, led by Michael, is now producing impressive California wines which are competitive to other established brands. I recommend that my readers check out the wines of Sequoia Grove, and acquaint yourself with some delicious and complex wines which don't conform to the big and bold Cabernets that far too often dominate the market.

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Gustave Lorentz: More Alsatian Wine Treasures

Charlie Sheen, oysters, white blood, bäckeoffe and Riesling.

What do all five of these have in common?  I would learn that fascinating answer on a recent Monday evening as I drank some Alsatian wines with dinner.

At Island Creek Oyster Bar, I dined with Pascal Schiele, the Export Director of Gustave Lorentz, and Matt Demers of Quintessential Wines.  It was a fun, tasty and informative experience as I got to sample and learn about the Alsatian wines of Gustave Lorentz winery. This winery is making a new marketing effort in Massachusetts, and based on what I tasted, these are wines that you should place on your radar and seek out. For some background on Alsace, please check out my prior post concerning an Alsatian wine dinner.

The Gustave Lorentz winery, with a history extending back to 1836, is situated in the village of Bergheim in central Alsace. It remains a family winery, now in its sixth generation, and they currently have about 85 acres of vineyards on the hills of Altenberg de Bergheim, 4 acres planted on the hills of the Grand Cru Kanzlerberg and 30 acres in the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim. The winery also purchases grapes from other vineyards, mainly in Bergheim.

Interestingly, the average cost of a vineyard in Alsace is the second highest in France, lower only than Champagne. Alsace vineyards, on average, are even more expensive than those in Burgundy or Bordeaux. Despite this high expense, Alsatian wines are not unduly expensive and you will find plenty of good values. Maybe certain regions in California, with expensive vineyard land, could take some lessons from Alsace in this regard.

As of 2012, Lorentz now has a significant portion of their vineyards certified organic and will soon be releasing a number of organic wines. Approximately 50% of their production is sold within France, mostly to restaurants, but that is going to change as French wine consumption continues to decrease. In response, the winery has been seeking markets elsewhere, to boost their exports. To bottle their wines, they use a combination of corks and screwcaps, and their high end wines use only cork as they don't feel they have sufficient experience with screwcaps for those wines. Their corks cost $1 each so definitely are not cheap.

They export to about 55 countries, making them the second largest Alsace exporter in the world. At this time, they sell about a dozen wines in their portfolio in the U.S., and 7 of those are available in Massachusetts (a few never before having been available here). Overall, their wines can be found in about 30 states and they are continuing to expand their distribution. Their U.S. distributor, for the last three years, has been Quintessential Wines. In the near future, they may start selling some of their Single Vineyard and Grand Cru wines in Massachusetts.

Pascal Schiele, pictured above, was born in Alsace and has deep roots in the wine industry. His great grandfather and grandfather were winemakers and two of his uncles are still winemakers. Pascal has desired to join the wine industry since he was a young boy. He never wanted to do anything else and his passion for wine was deeply evident at dinner. Pascal began in the wine exporting business in 1996 and joined the Gustave Lorentz winery in 2001.

During the evening, I asked Pascal what question that no writer had ever asked him before, and which he wishes they would, and his response was quick: "What color blood do I have?" An odd question to be sure, yet the answer resolved much. Pascal stated that his blood is white, because he has Riesling running through his veins. That is his favorite wine, that which most excites him. He certainly enjoys many other wines, but Riesling bears a special place in his heart...and in his veins.

I also asked him about some of his favorite Alsatian foods and three dishes came to mind. Choucroûte, the traditional dish of sauerkraut with meat and potatoes. Bäckeoffe, a casserole with meat & potatoes, often a winter meal. Escargot, a dish made by his beloved grandmother who was born in 1912. Over the course of the evening, Pascal told a couple stories about his grandmother and it was clear how important family was to him.

One of Pascal's favorite aspects of wine is that it "makes everyone on the same level." People of different social and economic classes all become equals while drinking wine. Consuming wine together, they share the same experience, which brings them together in a convivial atmosphere. It creates a positive bond, uniting people from diverse backgrounds. What a special aspect of wine!

Dinner was of course excellent, which I expected from Island Creek Oyster Bar, one of the best seafood restaurants in the city. We started with a dozen raw Oysters, four different types, and then I moved onto a bowl of Clam Chowder. The chowder was creamy, without being overly thick, and full of rich clam flavors with plenty of potato pieces, a bit of smokiness and delicious biscuit croutons. For my entree, I chose the Seafood Casserole, a hearty and tasty dish containing lobster, scallop and haddock. For dessert, I thoroughly enjoyed the Honey Crisp Apple Fritters with a Bourbon Caramel sauce. The wines and the food paired very well together, and I was pleased to have the opportunity to taste the wines with food rather than simply on their own.

Gustave Lorentz produces gastronomic wines, intended to accompany food, and they best can be described as fresh, clean, well-balanced and mostly dry. The six wines I tasted all conformed to that description and I often marveled at their clean taste, which I was later informed is the signature of Lorentz wines. These are also wines intended to reflect the terroir of Alsace and their vineyards.

We began our evening with two sparkling wines, Crémant d'Alsace. The term "crémant" basically means "creamy" and originally referred to sparkling wines that were produced with less pressure, which tended to make them taste more creamy than effervescent. They can offer excellent value, being less expensive than Champagne.

The NV Cremant D'Alsace Brut ($24.99) might be labeled as non-vintage, but the winery does not blend vintages so all of the grapes in this wine are from the same vintage. The Cremant is a blend, in equal proportions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. It spends 14-24 months on the lees, is disgorged three times a year, has an alcohol content of 12% and only 4000 cases are produced annually. It has a pleasant, fruity aroma of with a creamy, bubbly taste up front which finishes crisp and clean. There are appealing tastes of green apple, peach and melon. This is the type of sparkling wine that is going to appeal to many bubbly lovers.  

The NV Cremant D'Alsace Rosé ($24.99), as per law, must be produced from 100% Pinot Noir. It spends about 15 months on the lees, has an alcohol content of 12% and only 1500 cases are produced annually. It will be available in Massachusetts in early May. Vintage matters greatly for their Pinot Noir, and they need low yields for the best fruit. 2005 and 2009 were very good years for their Pinot. I was enamored though with this Cremant, relishing the alluring red fruit aroma. On the palate, it was crisper, and not as creamy, as the Brut with a dry taste of various red fruits, from strawberry to cherry. A fine sipping bubbly, I would enjoy this on its own or with various foods. Simply delicious and highly recommended.

My love affair continued with the 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir ($18.99). The winery once was not strong in Rosé but as the general demand for Rosé wines increased, they chose to raise their production levels. The wine has an alcohol content of 12.5% and only 2500 cases are produced annually. With a bright pink color, the Rosé has a more subtle nose, subtle hints of red fruit, and on the palate, it is dry, clean and crisp with bright red fruit flavors. Refreshing and tasty, I couldn't get enough of this wine. This was my favorite wine of the evening and again it is something I could enjoy on its own or with food. As there are very few Alsatian Rosés in the U.S. market, this is a more unique wine. Highly recommended.

The 2010 Pinot Blanc Reserve ($18.99) is a blend of 90% Auxerrois and 10% Pinot Blanc, with an alcohol content of 12.5%. Pascal stated that Pinot Blanc is a "wonderful introduction" to Alsatian wines and is a "pure pleasure" wine. From its delightful melon aroma to its crisp, clean taste with pleasing flavors of melon, peach and citrus, this was an easy drinking, crowd pleaser. It has enough character to keep it from being too simple, and I would agree with Pascal that it is an excellent introduction to Alsatian wines, one sure to lure in wine lovers. And once you lure them in, they will likely stay for the rest of the Alsatian wines.

The 2008 Pinot Gris Reserve ($22.99) is made of 100% Pinot Gris. There is an Alsatian legend that in the 16th century, Baron Lazare de Schwendi traveled to Hungary where he found and enjoyed the sweet Tokay wines. He brought back a number of vines and they supposedly turned out to be Pinot Gris. Most likely though, the truth is that Pinot Gris vines were brought to Alsace from Burgundy. Unlike many cheap Pinot Grigio wines, this Pinot Gris possesses plenty of character and complexity. It has a richer mouthfeel, with prominent peach flavors, a streak of minerality and nice acidity. Delicious and worth seeking out.

The 2010 Gewurtztraminer Reserve ($24.99) is made of 100% Gewurtztraminer, with an alcohol content of 13.1%. The aroma is enticing, and you won't mistake it for anything else except Gewurtztraminer. On the palate, it possesses very bold and strong, spicy flavors and aromatics, including ginger, lychee, and floral notes. Though I liked this wine, and would have enjoyed trying it with some spicy Asian cuisine, it was my least favorite of the six. There was nothing wrong with this wine, but my personal preference would have been for the flavors to have been slightly less bold.

As I have written before, Alsatian wines don't seem to be on the radar of the average consumer. They need greater publicity to make consumers aware of their quality, value and excellent taste. Restaurants and wine stores need to work on hand selling these wines, recommending them to consumers who are open to expanding their palates. Wine writers need to highlight these wines, to speak of their virtues. The wines of Gustave Lorentz would be a fine introduction to consumers of the wonders of Alsatian wines.

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Gascon Winery: Malbec To Give People Joy

Nesti Bajda (pictured above), the winemaker at the Don Miguel Gascón winery in Mendoza, Argentina, told me that in the end, he makes wines to give people joy. Nesti also loves to cook, and his motivation is the same, to give people joy. No one can argue that is not a worthy motivation. Maybe more winemakers need to understand that should be their basic rationale.

Earlier this week, I was invited to dine with Nesti at Stephi's on Tremont, as well as to taste three of his wines. The Don Miguel Gascón winery dates back to 1884, founded by Don Miguel Escorihuela Gascón, and it may have been the first winery, during the 1940s, to produce Argentina's first 100% Malbec wine. Change came to the winery in 1993, when a group of investors, led by the famed Nicolas Catena, purchased the winery and currently Ernesto Catena is the winery president. With Ernesto at the helm, one can feel confident that justice will be done to these wines.  

The winery is the only one still located in the city of Mendoza and their focus is on Malbec, the signature grape of Argentina. They own a couple vineyards, one being Biodynamic, and with these vineyards they generally focus on higher end wines and experimentation. In addition, they purchase grapes from over 150 vineyards, most which are small, about twenty acres or less. Their goal with their wines is to show what Argentina is like, to capture the essence of Malbec.

Nesti Bajda, of Slovenian ancestry, was born and raised in Mendoza. He originally studied accountacy but soon learned that he hated paperwork so knew he had to find another career. Thus, he decided to try agricultural school and ended up volunteering at the school's vineyards, where he discovered his true passion. Nesti mentioned that his father and grandfather were both coopers, barrel makers, so he likes to say that "they made barrels and now he fills them." In 2003, Nesti began working at Don Miguel Gascón, and has even helped to plant vineyards at Alma Negra. Though he has been heavily involved in advanced technology to assist vineyard growth and wine making, his desire remains simple, to make wine that brings joy.

About 70% of the winery's production is sold within Argentina, and only a few of their wines are exported, being distributed in Massachusetts by Martignetti Companies. Nesti wants their wines to reflect tradition and history and noted that 2011 was the best vintage he has seen at the winery. The weather in 2011 was just perfect for their grapes. The result was that the wines of 2011 possess a "beautiful natural acidity" which is not common in Argentina, making them even better food wines than usual.

I got to taste three of their Malbec based wines and all of them paired well with my delicious lunch of Smokey Bacon Macaroni & Cheese.

The 2011 Colosal ($15) is a blend of 61% Malbec, 16% Bonarda, 13% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The name translates as "Colossal" and reflects the history of the winery as this was similar to a high quality blend they made in the late 1800s. Back then, wine was sold in barrels, each possessing a large label that depicted a huge, mustached man who held a barrel under each arm. It has only been in the last twenty years or so that Argentina wineries started commonly making single varietals. The majority of this wine was aged for fifteen months in a combination of French and American oak, and it has an alcohol content of 14.1%.

The Colosal has a dark red color with a pleasing aroma of dark fruit and spice. On the palate, it is full bodied, with smooth tannins, and presents an elegant balance. Delicious plum, black cherry and spice notes dominate the taste and it offers good complexity for the price. The Malbec plays the starring role and the international grapes support the Malbec without trying to steal the show. An excellent value wine, this should appeal to many wine lovers.

The basic 2011 Malbec ($15) is produced from 100% Malbec, sees only a touch of oak for some added complexity and has an alcohol content of 13.9%. This is an introductory Malbec, created to show the "true" Malbec, the typical flavor profile. It is inky dark with an intense aroma of black fruit, violets and deep spice. On the palate, it was a simple but smooth and delicious wine, with tasty flavors of plum and blackberries, with a spicy backbone. An easy drinking wine that also offers a good value.

The 2010 Malbec Reserva ($25) usually is a blend of mostly Malbec, with small percentages of Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, but for this vintage it is mostly Malbec with about 4%-5% Petite Verdot and no Cabernet Franc. The grapes are sourced from the same vineyards as the basic Malbec but they selected the best grapes for the Reserva. It was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak and has an alcohol content of 14.26%. The wine is more complex than the basic Malbec, though containing a fairly similar flavor profile. The taste is also deeper, richer and spicier though still maintaining a delightful elegance. Unlike the basic Malbec, you will also find some chocolate notes, especially on the finish. This is a wine that shows the potential of Malbec, indicating its potential complexity and showcasing the skills of the winemaker. Highly recommended.

I think Nesti succeeded in making three wines which will bring you joy.

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