Cape Cod Chef's Table: A Taste of the Cape

"All of this is to say that today you can find more and more people living off the land and making a living with what is available to them on Cape Cod. And this is helping Cape Cod become a food destination as well as a popular tourist spot."
--John F. Carafoli (p.xiv)

This afternoon, I'll be traveling to Provincetown, on Cape Cod, to spend several days as part of a media trip sponsored by the exploring Provincetown Tourism Office. I'll be dining at a number of restaurants, as well as checking out bakeries, food markets, wine shops and more. Plus, I will be immersed in historical explorations, a whale watch and other tourist activities. It seems appropriate then that today I should review a new cookbook which concentrates on Cape Cod.

I am impressed with Cape Cod's Chef's Table: Extraordinary Recipes from Buzzards Bay to Provincetown by John F. Carafoli (Lyons Press, June 2013, $24.95). This is a hardcover book of 192 pages, which is part cookbook and part travel guide to the 70-mile long Cape Cod peninsula. John Carafoli is a food stylist, consultant, and food writer who lives in West Barnstable. He also wrote Food Photography and Styling and two children’s cookbooks, Look Who’s Cooking and The Cookie Cookbook.

"You can now find Italian, Brazilian, Mexican, and French restaurants, but there is always that touch of Cape Cod cultural DNA in each restaurant, fresh and local."
--John F. Carafoli (p.xiv

The book is broken down into three main sections: Upper Cape, Mid Cape and Lower Cape. Each section consists of 12-15 listings, mainly restaurants though there are also listings for inns, farms, a tea shop, a winery and even a food truck. This is but a representative sampling, including several iconic locations, of what can be found on the Cape. Each of the listings provides some basic information and stories (such as their history) about these establishments. Each listing also includes one or two recipes from each of those places.

You will find lots of seafood restaurants mentioned but there is plenty of diversity, and you will also find Mexican, Brazilian, French and other restaurants. The recipes range from cocktails to lobster rolls, pizza to ice cream, clam chowder to English toffee. Many of the recipes even come with wine suggestions, a great idea, and some of their suggestions are intriguing. Australian Semillon, Italian Ribola Gialla, Italian Dolcetto, Portuguese Vinho Verde. Most of the recipes seem relatively easy to moderate in complexity and my favorite may be the Buttermilk Fried Chicken from Cranberry's Restaurant & Pub.

Besides these listings, there are numerous other articles spread out through the book, detailing more about the food life on the Cape, including: How to Eat a Lobster, Bourne Scallop Festival, All About Oysters, Cranberry Bog Harvest, Cape Cod Cottage Industries (from jams to potato chips), Clambakes, Food From the Sea (fishermen), and The Farmers Who Feed Us. These interesting items add to the reader's comprehension of the culture of Cape Cod and are a nice addition to the rest of the book.

The photography in the book, done by Francine Zaslow, is beautiful and compelling, and you will find a photograph on nearly every page. Not only will you find alluring photos of the various recipes, but you will also find the people and places of the Cape. Very well done.

Overall, this is an impressive and fascinating glimpse into the food world of Cape Cod, an excellent cookbook and travel guide. It has made me even more eager to journal to Provincetown. Check out this book and I bet it will intrigue you to make a journey to Cape Cod this summer. Or at least cook a few recipes that will remind you of the Cape.

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2012: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue my collection of lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2012. Yesterday, I provided a list of my Favorite Restaurants of 2012 and now I want to address my favorites for other Food-Related Items, from markets to books, from cheese to candy. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Food Magazine: For the second year in a row, Lucky Peach easily prevails as my favorite. This quarterly magazine is eclectic and irreverent, with fascinating articles, essays, recipes, and more. I eagerly devour each issue when it is released and its quality has remained consistent. It entertain and educates, as well as providing much to ponder. Their recent Chinatown themed issue was very cool. If you love food and are not reading Lucky Peach, then shame on you.

Favorite Ethnic Cookbook: If you enjoy Chinese cuisine, then you should read Feeding The Dragon by Mary Kate Tate and Nate Tate. The book is a combination travelogue and cookbook, broken down into regions of China. Each regional section begins with interesting essays about that area and then provides about 10-15 recipes, spanning the range from appetizers to desserts, and including several beverages too. The book is a fascinating culinary survey of China with a sampling of recipes that provide some authenticity for home cooks. It is aesthetically pleasing, with numerous beautiful photos of not only the dishes, but also of the people, places and items of China. An excellent read.

Favorite Food Trade Event: For the second year in a row, I have selected the International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. It is an engaging event and I wrote over a dozen posts about the show this year. It is a compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next IBSS in March 2013.

Favorite Cheese Shop: The Concord Cheese Shop has a huge and diverse selection of local, domestic and imported cheeses, including many small production and unique cheeses. Local cheeses are one of their specialties. In addition, they sell a good selection of wines and other gourmet foods. A one-stop store to stock up for any party. The staff is very helpful and it is in a good location, where you can also check out many other intriguing shops. Make it a day and visit Concord and the Cheese Shop.

Favorite Cheese Event: Each summer, the Vermont Cheesemakers' Festival is held at Shelburne Farms and I have attended many of their events, always enjoying myself. This year, the event showcased over 40 Vermont cheesemakers, with over 200 cheeses for sampling, a smorgasbord of dairy pleasures. There was a vast diversity of cheeses, from chèvre to blue cheese, from cheddar to mozzarella. Besides all these cheeses, there were other foods as well, from candy to croutons, breads to hot sauces. In addition, there were local wines, beers, ciders, spirits and other drinks. It does get crowded, but it is still well worth attending.

Favorite Cheese: I love cheese, in all of its forms, and it was not easy to select just one to be my top favorite for the year. However, I made my selection, the Grafton Village Cave Age Truffled Bismark. The Bismark, named for a legendary Vermont ram from the late 19th century, is a sheep's milk cheese that has been aged for at least three months. The Bismark has an intriguing taste; nutty and creamy with a delicious earthiness due to the addition of white and black truffles as well as some truffle oil. This would be a perfect cheese for an umami rich Sake, like a Kimoto or Yamahai. An amazing cheese with such a depth of flavor and complexity. Highly recommended.

Favorite Seafood Treat: Bacon? How about Salmon Bacon? Yes! I enjoyed two different salmon bacons, and they were significantly different. Though I liked both of them, my preference was for the MacKnight Salmon Bacon as it seemed more like bacon rather than just smoked salmon. It still had a salmon flavor, but was thinner and crisper and I would eagerly place it on any breakfast plate. It is even supposed to be healthier for you than pork bacon.

Favorite Pickled Food: It seems that almost any food can end up pickled and this year I was especially impressed with Pickled Willys seafood. They currently have four different types including Wild Ling Cod, Wild Sockeye Salmon, Alaskan King Crab Tail, and Halibut. They use only sustainable, wild Alaskan seafood and it is prepared with organic vinegar, cane sugar, and a blend of pickling spices. The end product is delicious, the fish still having a firm flesh and the light pickling enhances the taste. The salmon was my favorite though I enjoyed all of them.

Favorite Japanese Ingredients: At the International Boston Seafood Show, there was a Japanese pavilion, showcasing numerous food products. The Shinmarusyo Co. Ltd. produces dried bonito and also makes dashi, kind of a fish stock. Dashi is very important in Japanese cuisine, and is a common base for many dishes. Their dashi can be used to make a savory soup, which is rich in umami, that was subtle but complex flavors. In addition, they make a couple soy sauces, including the Shiro Dashi Soy Sauce, and Katuobushiya Dashi Soy Sauce. The Shiro is a light colored soy sauce with dashi and fermented seasonings. A nice depth of flavor and though like many other soy sauces in some respects, it also possessed its own exotic and unique nature. The Katuobushiya is made from dried bonito and Rishiri seaweed. It has a deeper flavor, more like regular soy sauce, but more intense and with a greater umami.

Favorite Mac n' Cheese: Though I had mixed feelings on some of their other dishes, I was impressed with the Mac & Five Cheese Gratin at GEM Restaurant & Lounge. Cooked perfectly, with a crispy top of buttered breadcrumbs and rich, cheesy noodles, this was the perfect comfort food, elevated to a high level. Nice levels of flavor, this bests many other mac n' cheese dishes you will find elsewhere. It is only a side dish, but you could easily make a meal out of it.

Favorite Frozen Food: Though it is generally best to get fresh baked goods, there are times a frozen product can satisfy your cravings. Gagne Foods, located in Maine, produces both fresh and frozen products, including sweet potato biscuits, cinnamon rolls, cream cheese biscuits and more. The sweet potato biscuits were fantastic and I enjoyed all of their products. The frozen biscuits are easy to cook and your guests might even believe they were fresh. Try the sweet potato biscuits and become a convert.

Favorite Local Ice Cream Shop: In West Concord, you will find Reasons To Be Cheerful, a dessert cafe that makes ice cream in small batches using a natural, hormone free, 14% butterfat ice cream mix from a local dairy. Their flavors vary from the common vanilla and chocolate chip to more unusual flavors like sweet azuki and ginger. They even make several ice creams using alcohol such as the Milk Chocolate Guinness and the Dark & Stormy. I found the various flavors to be rich, prominent, and well balanced so that you receive exactly the flavor you desired. The Dark & Stormy was one of my favorites.

Favorite Dessert Sauce: I have raved before about the goat's milk caramel sauces from Fat Toad Farm and this year I tasted a new flavor, their Salted Bourbon Caramel Sauce. It lived up to my expectations, with a sweet, creamy flavor complemented by a salty element and the vanilla notes from the bourbon. Pure heaven. You must try their this sauce or any other of their caramel sauces.

Favorite Candy: Speaking of goat milk, Big Picture Farm is producing some compelling goat's milk caramels. I tasted two of their hand-made caramels, the Chai and Vanilla & Sea Salt. The Chai was spicy, with a nice cinnamon and nutmeg kick, and it was not overly sweet. My favorite though was the Vanilla & Sea Salt, just bursting with creamy flavor, prominent vanilla, that great salty contrast and just the right amount of sweetness. These are very addictive.

Favorite Fruit: Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta introduced me to a new fruit, lucuma. It is a Peruvian fruit which is also known as egg fruit because its flesh seems to resemble the texture of a hard boiled egg. Chef Duarte prepared a dessert using lucuma, a smooth and creamy pudding-like item that reminded me of a delicious butterscotch pudding. Peru is a country rich in exotic food products and I hope more of them make it to the U.S. if they all can be as delicious as lucuma.

Favorite Cupcakes: I am very picky about cupcakes, and am often disappointed by the myriad cupcake stores that have spread throughout the area. However, I found a bakery, Cakes For Occasions, which makes very satisfying cupcakes. Properly moist, the cupcakes are topped by a creamy and light frosting, and the flavors are compelling. These are cupcakes that have earned my recommendation. The bakery sells many other baked goods, such as delicious whoopie pies, cakes, cookies, pies and more. Check out the bakery, get some cupcakes and see what else tantalizes your taste buds.

Favorite Healthy Snack: Kind Healthy Snacks makes all natural whole nut & fruit bars, which have natural protein, fiber and 5 or less grams of sugar. They have plenty of different flavors, including a number with chocolate. My favorite was the Almond & Coconut, which contains almonds, dried coconut, honey, non-GMO glucose, puffed rice, chicory fiber, and soy lecithin. Plenty of delicious coconut flavor, a mild sweetness, nutty accents and a nice chewy texture. It didn't taste healthy and is going to please any dessert lover.

Favorite New Food Market: A short ride away, in Salem, New Hamphire, is the new Tuscan Market, a large artisanal market, which is a one-stop shopping spot for Italian food and ingredients, as well as other quality items. Many of the foods are prepared on premises while others are purchased locally or imported from Italy. Fresh baked breads, wines, cheese, produce, meats, seafood, desserts, prepared foods and much more. There is also a 65-seat café where you can grab a bite, from pizza to pasta. This is a compelling culinary destination and you should be shopping there.

Favorite Food Contest: My inner carnivore roared in approval at the East Cambridge Rib Fest, where over 20 restaurants prepared their own version of ribs. I was even more fortunate as I was one of the judges and got to taste nearly all of the various ribs. So many tasty dishes, including beef and pork ribs, both dry and wet, savory, sweet and spicy. There was live entertainment, local beers and the weather cooperated well. I can't wait to attend this event again next year and highly recommend everyone else go as well.

Favorite Food Controversy: Once again, one of the most important, and sometimes controversial, food issues I addressed this year was seafood sustainability. I have tried to cover a variety of issues, seeking to delve behind the science and rhetoric. The importance of this matter cannot be underestimated, but it is sometimes difficult to get to the truth behind the issues. Last year, the Legal Sea Foods blacklisted dinner made headlines but this year I followed up with Roger Berkowitz (see Part 1 and Part 2) to assess the dinner's impact and Legal's continued efforts. Some of my other posts addressing seafood sustainability include: Stop Eating Cod, Tuna & Salmon, A Sustainability Primer, Verlasso Farmed Salmon, State Of Fisheries Address, How A Restaurant Becomes Sustainable, Aquaculture & Cobia, Consumers Purchasing Sustainable Seafood, Can Bordeaux Save The Sharks?, Eat More Seafood Especially Local, and Bluefin Tuna Stocks Recovering?

My Biggest Personal Food Issue: Last January, I announced that I had been diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes, which required some adjustments to my lifestyle, including more exercise and watching my diet. I have fortunately been successful and brought my blood sugars back to normal levels, also losing a significant amount of weight. It is a health issue that will require ongoing attention but it can be managed. Thanks to everyone who supported me in my efforts and I will continue to make this a priority in my life.

My Food Prediction For 2013: A few restaurants have been experimenting with seafood charcuterie this past year and I predict that it will become an even more popular and prevalent dish in 2013. Charcuterie has been huge, with many restaurants making their own sausages, chorizo, pates and more from a variety of meats. As chefs are often looking to innovate, I feel they will move from pork, beef, poultry and other meats toward seafood. The few examples I have tasted this past year have been delicious and I think seafood charcuterie has great potential.

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1) On October 4, Team IMPACT will introduce its inaugural signature fundraising event: Game Day Gala. At this charitable fete, Team IMPACT will celebrate with its cherished benefactors by hosting an upscale tailgating and sporting event experience.

The evening’s roster includes event co-chairs – and Team IMPACT founding members – Jay Calnan (Chief Executive Officer, J. Calnan & Associates) and Dan Kraft (Executive Vice President, The Kraft Group) who will join forces with ESPN’s popular football reporter, Wendi Nix, in this night-with-a-cause that benefits the organization’s mission to pair children who are facing adverse health issues with vibrant, team-based collegiate support networks. At this event, Team IMPACT hopes to continue to raise awareness while establishing a sense of community by encouraging a wide range of team-based organizations to open up their ranks and extend their laughter, strength and support for children in the New England area.

“The team behind Team IMPACT is honored and inspired to continue and expand the long standing tradition of athletes paying tribute to something that is far greater than themselves,” says Calnan and Kraft. “The ability to come together, serve the community and support each and every member of a team through any adversities is crucial…both on and off the field.”

At the Game Day Gala, supporters will relive their fond “Homecoming” memories in a room bedecked with sports jerseys from Team IMPACT’s participating schools and special guest appearances by their respective spirited mascots. To kickoff the ceremony in true game day fashion, a Team IMPACT participant will sing the National Anthem. As inspiring and uplifting visuals play of the wonderful children the organization rallies for, guests will indulge in gourmet tailgate-inspired treats and sips as well as a sit-down dinner. The Game Day Gala will also feature unparalleled live and silent auctions.

The first annual Game Day Gala takes place on Thursday, October 4, at The Westin Boston Waterfront located at 425 Summer Street in Boston. A cocktail reception will begin at 6:30pm with the main event starting at 7:30pm. To reserve tickets ($500 per person) or a table ($2,500 - $5,000), please visit: www.goteamimpact.org.

2) On Thursday, September 27, at 6pm, Chefs Chris Douglass and Nuno Alves of Tavolo will welcome Amy Traverso, senior lifestyle editor of Yankee, and author of The Apple Lover's Cookbook. This will be the fourth in a series of five “Cookbook Authors of Boston” dinners and it costs $45 per person, which  includes an autographed 300-page hardcover cookbook

MENU
First course
Salad of Apples, Pickled Onion and Bacon with Cider Vinaigrette
Second course
Apple & Chestnut Stuffed Pork Loin with Cider Sauce
Dessert
Tarte Tatin

For reservations, please call 617-822-1918.

3) The taco might be the most ubiquitous of Mexican dishes, but it is prepared differently in each region of the county depending on its particular environment and the available ingredients. Inspired by a recent trip to Mexico where he explored the culture and cuisines of Mexico, Chef Erwin Ramos of the Olé Restaurant Group is bringing guests on an authentic Mexican “Tour de Taco” with a special menu in honor of National Taco Day on Thursday, October 4.

Ramos will offer guests tacos filled with ingredients like shrimp, steak, pork and peppers from Baja California all the way to Yucatan, bringing the meaning of cooking “paleo,” or local, to a whole new level. Guests are invited to choose four tacos from a selection of seven Mexican regional favorites along with a side of Mexican rice, cilantro rice, beans or plantains for just $18 per person at Olé Mexican Grill, located in Cambridge, and Zόcalo Cocina Mexicana, located in Boston.

Cost: $18 per person plus tax and gratuity for four tacos and a side of side of Mexican rice, cilantro rice, beans or plantains. Served in conjunction with the regular menu.

Reservations are recommended. Please call Olé Mexican Grill at (617)-492-4495 or Zócalo Cocina Mexicana at (617)-456-7849.

Choose four:

Baja California
Baja Taco
Beer-battered shrimp taco with pickled cabbage, cilantro pesto, chipotle aioli and toasted black sesame seeds on hand-made corn tortilla.
Monterrey
Carne Asada
Soft flour tortillas with grilled marinated steak, poblano peppers and onions. Topped with jack cheese, cilantro, salsa verde and chipotle salsa.
Veracruz
Zaragalla Taco
Veracruz style sherred fish cooked with chile color broth. Topped with chipotle aioli and lime.
Mexico City
Taco de Carnitas
Braised pork, guacamole, pickled jalapenos, red onions and cilantro on soft corn tortillas.
Puebla
Rajas con Crema Taco
Roasted and sliced poblano peppers with cream. Topped with jack cheese.
Oaxaca
Garden Vegetables with Mole
Oaxaca’s vegetable stew with potatoes, carrots, squash, red onions, poblano peppers and pickled cactus simmered in pumpkin seed sauce.
Yucatan
Cochinita Pibil
Traditional Mexican slow-roasted pork dish with achiote. Topped with pickled red onions, habanero and guacamole.

4) 2012 Grammy Award Winner Tedeschi Trucks Band will headline the 2012 Hoedown V on September 29, helping to raise funds to benefit Lovelane Special Needs Horse Riding Program, a therapeutic horseback riding program in Lincoln.

The biennial event is the premiere fundraiser for the Lovelane program. This year’s theme is “Get Your Kicks on Route 66.” Hoedown V will also include a live set from the James Montgomery Band. Guests are encouraged to dust off their cowboy boots and dress casually for a night of dancing, eating and mingling, all to benefit the children with special needs who participate in Lovelane’s therapeutic riding program.

Many of Boston’s chefs have already signed on to participate in the event, including Marc Orfaly of Pigalle, Mark Goldberg of PARK, Rodney Murillo of Davio’s, Dave Becker of Sweet Basil, Christopher Coombs of Deuxave, Peter Davis of Henrietta’s Table, Courtney Forrester of Sweet, Andy Husbands of Tremont 647, Phyllis Kaplowitz of Baker’s Best Catering, William Kovel of Catalyst, Geoff Janowski of Blue Ribbon BAR-B-Q, Sam Mason of Oddfellows Ice Cream Co., Seth and Angela Raynor of Boarding House, The Pearl and Corazon del Mar, Jeremy Sewall of Island Creek Oyster Bar and Paul Sussman of Back Deck. As a special treat, Island Creek Oyster Farm will be on hand to offer a Raw Bar and Wiches of Boston will be producing ‘Adult’ milkshakes.

Hoedown V will take place September 29, from 4pm-9:30pm at Broad Oak Farm in Dedham. For Debby Sabin, founder of Lovelane, the Hoedown is a night not only to raise money, but to celebrate the successes of the students that ride at Lovelane. “Hoedown V will be an incredible evening, where new and old friends of Lovelane come together and celebrate not only the success of the program, but more importantly the success of our individual students,” said Sabin, “We are committed to continuing a program of excellence, and making a difference in the lives of our students and their families.”

For over twenty years Lovelane has been providing therapeutic horseback riding to children with special needs. Located in Lincoln, Lovelane currently has 13 specially trained riding instructors and provides more than 4,400 individual therapeutic riding sessions a year to children and young adults. Lovelane allows children with special needs to experience a sense of freedom that is often missing from their daily routine. By combining the therapy, confidence and enjoyment that students gain from their therapeutic riding, Lovelane becomes more than a therapy program as it truly does improve the quality of the child’s life and increases the child’s self-esteem.

Therapeutic horseback riding is a proven, yet costly, form of therapy. Each individual lesson at Lovelane is subsidized by the organization, and more than 40% of the families in the Lovelane program receive tuition assistance so their children may continue to ride on a regular basis. Funds raised by the Hoedown and other special events support the cost of the program and enable the organization to continue to offer this assistance.

With a waiting list for lessons between 1-5 years, Lovelane is a successful and well-respected non-profit organization that is focused on providing therapeutic services that dramatically impact the physical, cognitive and social development of the children in the program.

For more information on Lovelane Special Needs Horseback Riding Program or to purchase tickets to Hoedown V, visit www.lovelane.org.

5) On Sunday, October 28, Lovin’ Spoonfuls, will host the second annual Ultimate Tailgate Party overlooking Boston’s scenic waterfront at Sam’s at Louis Boston. The annual event, hosted by Esti & Drew Parsons, co-owners of Sam’s and emceed by Jenny Johnson of NECN’s “TV Diner,” features 12 of Boston’s “MVP” chefs cooking high-end versions of their favorite tailgate food, cocktails shaken by Sam's own Jon Parsons & the legendary Josh Childs, a live auction, entertainment and much more. The theme of the event resonates Lovin’s mission: combatting hunger is a team sport!

Currently 1 in 5 Bostonians are classified as food insecure, meaning they don't know where their next meal will come from. Since founding Lovin' Spoonfuls, 501(c)(3) non-profit, in 2010, Ashley Stanley and her team have collected more than 150,000lbs of fresh, healthy food that would otherwise be thrown away, and distributed it at no cost to local soup kitchens, homeless shelters and crisis centers throughout the city. Last year’s ultimate tailgate party allowed Lovin’s team to put another truck on the road, doubling their ability to pick up and drop off rescued food, and this year aims to do the same!

This year a team of 12 of Boston’s premiere chefs will once again join the party by cooking their own creative takes on their favorite tailgate food. Guests will be able to enjoy creative comfort food from Lovin’ Spoonfuls board members, Joanne Chang (Myers & Chang and Flour) and Jeremy Sewall (Lineage, Eastern Standard Kitchen and Island Creek Oyster Bar) as well as Karen Akunowicz (Myers & Chang), Asia Mei (Sam’s at Louis Boston), Douglas Rodriguez (Clio), Andy Husbands (Tremont 647) Jason Bond (Bondir), Colin Lynch (Menton, No. 9 Park), Louis DiBiccari (Storyville and Chef Louie Night) and Mary Dumont (Harvest). Jamie Bissonnette (Coppa and Toro) and Will Gilson (Puritan & Co.) will be on the sidelines cooking up a pig roast. Boston Red Sox Executive Chef and former contestant on the Bravo’s “Around the World in 80 Plates,” Chef Steve “Nookie” Postal will be hosting a tailgate to the tailgate during VIP hour from 6pm-7pm which includes lobster rolls and champagne.

Popular Boston mixologists, Jon Parsons (bar manager at Sam's) and Josh Childs (Silvertone, Parlor Sports and Trina's Starlite Lounge) will be throwing down and shaking up specialty drinks all evening.

The event, sponsored by BostonChefs.com and emceed by Jenny Johnson of NECN’s “TV Diner,” will feature a live auction, lawn games hosted on the beautiful lawn along the Boston waterfront, a photo booth stocked with everyone’s favorite football memorabilia, and complimentary beer from Peak Organic Brewery, as well as wine & champagne from sponsor M.S. Walker. Keeping the spirit alive will be local legend, DJ TJ Connelly, best known for his work for the Boston Red Sox and the legendary 101.7 WFNX. He's also behind a Boston favorite, The People’s Karaoke.

General admission tickets are $100. A limited number of VIP tickets for will be sold for $250 which allows guests entry into the VIP hour from 6pm-7pm and includes a special lobster roll and champagne tasting from Chef Steve “Nookie” Postal, meet & greet with the chefs, and a VIP gift bag full of swag from some of Lovin’s local supporters! All of the proceeds from the event go to Lovin’ Spoonfuls.

All tickets are available for purchase here: http://lovinspoonfulstailgate.eventbrite.com

6) Legal Sea Foods is kicking off their fourth annual Oyster Festival with the “Shellfish Shindig” event hosted at the Charles Square location’s outdoor terrace. Guests will enjoy a variety of freshly shucked oysters for $1 each. Wash it down with Legal Sea Foods’ signature Oyster Festival cocktail, the Deadrise, featuring Rain Organic vodka, muddled cucumber, lime and grapefruit bitters that pairs beautifully with bivalves by the bushel.

When: Sunday, September 23, from 2pm–4pm
Cost: $1 per oyster; $8.95 per Deadrise cocktail
More Info: This event is open to the public; no reservations are required. In case of rain, the “Shellfish Shindig” will be held in the atrium of the restaurant.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
**********************************************************
1)  On Monday, May 21, CupcakeCamp Boston, a gathering of cupcake enthusiasts, is bringing sweet cupcake creations back to Somerville at Arts at the Amory for the 3rd Annual CupcakeCamp Boston to benefit Lovin’ Spoonfuls, a food rescue nonprofit dedicated to providing healthy, ready-to-eat food to those in need.

Each year CupcakeCamp gives professional bakers, bakeries and amateur bakers alike the opportunity to showcase their most delicious cupcake creations to hundreds of people. From 7pm-9pm, guests can indulge in a cupcake extravaganza featuring thousands of cupcakes for only $5. For those interested in skipping the line, CupcakeCamp Boston has created a new VIP hour held from 6pm-7pm which, for only $25 per ticket, will give guests early access to the confectionary creations and swag from Lovin’ Spoonfuls as well as a chance to win prizes from Whole Foods whose co-sponsorship and support along with Boston Cupcake Crawl run by Boston Chocolate Tours makes CupcakeCamp Boston possible.

Proceeds from CupcakeCamp Boston benefit Lovin’ Spoonfuls, a nonprofit organization that recovers and distributes perishable and un-served food to local crisis centers, soup kitchens and other social assistance entities. "CupcakeCamp has always been about food and fun, but also the spirit of giving back. Food access is a widespread problem and we're thrilled to be able to raise money to benefit local food rescue organization Lovin' Spoonfuls in their quest to eliminate hunger in the Boston area,” said Elizabeth Ginsburg, founder of CupcakeCamp Boston.

A limited number of tickets for the VIP hour will be pre-sold for $25 and will go on sale during the first week of May. General admission tickets are $5 and will be available at the door.

Participating Bakeries: Cakeology, Cakes by Erin, Cupcakes by Martha, JannaBee's, O'Sugar! Cakery, Sweet Creations by Gloria, Whole Foods Market and Wicked Good Cupcakes.

2)  Boston magazine is hosting a decadent evening to celebrate the talented pastry chefs that proudly stand behind Boston’s culinary scene. Boston magazine’s Top Desserts event is an evening to taste selections from numerous restaurants in the city. Part of the proceeds from the delicious dining event will benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank.

Who: Ten chefs from sixteen participating restaurants including: · Chef Shane Gray of Mistral · Chef Charlene Smith of Sorellina · Chef Jiho Kim of L’Espalier · Chef Lauren Kroesser of Eastern Stand, Island Creek Oyster Bar and The Hawthorne · Chef Tiffani Faison of Sweet Cheeks · Chef Maura Kilpatrick of Oleana and Sofra · Chef Oliver Maillard of Deuxave · Chef David Nevins of Nix's Mate · Chef Katie Kimbal of Area Four · Chef Jessica Pelletier of Russell House Tavern, Temple Bar, Grafton Street, and PARK Restaurant & Bar

When: Thursday, May 24, 6pm–7pm VIP, 7pm–9pm General Admission
Where: Mandarin Oriental, 776 Boylston Street, Boston
For tickets, please visit: www.bostonmagazine.com/topdesserts

3)  Haru is adding another libation to their cocktail menu: the Geisha. This specialty liquid blend mixes up sweet nigori sake and lychee puree with muddled strawberries and lime and is then topped off with a splash of 7-Up. The Geisha is now available all day and night during the months of May and June for only $7.

For cocktail connoisseurs looking to recreate the magic at home, Haru shares its recipe for sweet success:

Ingredients:
2.5 oz nigori sake
2 oz lychee puree
Dash of simple syrup
Splash of 7-Up
2 strawberries
1 lime wedge
1 lychee

Method: Muddle the fresh lime and strawberries. Add a dash of simple syrup, the lychee puree and the nigori sake. Shake and pour into a pilsner glass. Top with ice and a splash of 7-Up. Garnish with a lychee.

4)  Chefs Chris Douglass and Nuno Alves source and cook as locally as possible, which includes using recipes from some of Boston’s top food writers. The two men have assembled a Who’s Who of the city’s most in-demand authors, and plan to create special, one-night menus to showcase their current cookbooks at Tavolo. Each event features a 3-course dinner based on recipes from the pages of the cookbook, a discussion with the author, and an autographed cookbook. Advance reservations are strongly recommended. Cost is $45 per person and call 617-822-1918 for reservations.

June 7: Ancient Grains for Modern Meals, by Maria Speck 
A how-to guide for introducing healthy Old World staples like farro, barley and wheat berries into new American cooking. Speck was raised in Greece and Germany, but coming to the U.S. and becoming a journalist. She also teaches Mediterranean cooking in Cambridge. Notable Cookbook, New York Times 2011 Best 100 Cookbooks of Past 25 Years, Cooking Light Top Ten Cookbooks of 2011, Washington Post Julia Child Award 2012.

July 19: The Boston Homegrown Cookbook, by Leigh Belanger 
Profiles 28 Boston area restaurants that are working with local farmers to bring the freshest locally grown, sustainable foods to their menus. See Tavolo on the cover. Belanger manages programs for Chefs Collaborative and studies gastronomy at Boston University. “

August 2: Salads: Beyond the Bowl, by Mindy Fox 
A former Boston cook, and now editor of La Cucina Italiana magazine, Mindy has written for countless national publications, and has authored three well-reviewed previous cookbooks. 2010 Best Cookbooks of the Year, NY Times Best of the Best, Food & Wine.

September [TBD]: The Apple Lover’s Cookbook, by Amy Traverso
Amy’s been in the food world for years, as food editor of Boston Magazine, food & travel editor at Sunset before that, and now senior lifestyle editor at Yankee Magazine. Aa solid compendium that is as satisfying and reliable as its namesake fruit,” Publisher’s Weekly “… an excellent primer on apple varieties,” Bon Appetit.

October 11: The American Lighthouse Cookbook, by Becky Epstein and Ed Jackson
A unique book of regional recipes gathered from lighthouse towns on east and west coasts. Jackson is a chef; Epstein contributes wine, spirits, food and travel articles to Intermezzo and Palate Press. Best Regional Cookbook Award 2009, USABooksNews.com.

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America's Test Kitchen: Recipe Research

With the many thousands of food blogs in existence, the most common type are the recipe blogs, where writers post the results of their home cooking. I recently had cause to ponder some questions concerning these recipe blogs. How often do they practice a recipe before posting it? Have they considered other factors that might influence their recipe? Can you successfully replicate their recipes if you try them at your own home?

What brought these questions to mind was a short tour of the headquarters of America's Test Kitchen. America's Test Kitchen is a cooking show, hosted by Christopher Kimball, on public television stations. Kimball is also the editor-in-chief of Cook's Illustrated and Cook's County magazines, which are published in alternate months. In addition, the company publishes various cookbooks, with "Slow Cooker Revolution" being their best seller last year. Their headquarters, for all of their endeavors, is located in Brookline, Massachusetts.

Kimball founded Cook's Illustrated in 1980, eventually selling it to Condé Nast Publications, which chose to discontinue it in 1989. Kimball reacquired the rights to the magazine and relaunched it in 1993. Cook's Country, which emphasizes home-style cooking, was launched in 2004. The magazines accept no advertising and primarily present detailed recipes which commonly use ordinary and easily available ingredients. The goal of the magazines is to provide recipes that can be replicated by home cooks with the near exact result every time. In addition, the magazines also present evaluations and comparison tests of kitchen equipment and branded foods and ingredients.

Renee of the Boston Brunchers arranged a tour of America's Test Kitchen for a small group of bloggers and I was interested in viewing the facilities. It is located at a nondescript location and you enter their offices on the second floor, though their offices extend from the basement to the fourth floor. The tour lasted about an hour, providing us a brief glimpse behind the scenes, and I could have easily spent much longer asking questions and delving deeper into their endeavors.

We began the tour at their food and cookbook library, which contains approximately 4,000 volumes and is considered one of the largest private cookbook libraries in the U.S. This is where their test cooks do much of their recipe research, commonly evaluating 5 recipe variations at the same time.  The test cooks will later prepare all five recipes at the same time, and continue repeating a recipe until satisfied, often about 20 times, though it might be even as much as 100 times.

When the test cooks are satisfied with their results, they will send out the recipe to numerous consumers, from a pool of about 10,000, who will test the recipes and then provide feedback. Despite all the time, effort and resources invested in a recipe, it might be canceled if it cannot garner sufficient positive results from the consumer feedback. About ten recipes are included in each issue of Cook's Illustrated, so about sixty in the course of a year.

In a very small and informal survey on Twitter, I asked some food bloggers about how often they repeat a recipe before posting it. Sometimes, they post about their first attempt at a recipe, and such are not always successful. Other times, they might repeat it a few times, with a high limit of roughly 5 or 6 times. On occasion, they post some recipes which they make on a regular basis so those recipes are the most well practiced of all they do. Thus, most recipe blogs seem to often test their recipes only a fraction of the time of  that of a professional magazine like Cook's Illustrated.

Obviously a blogger, who is doing this as a hobby, does not have the time or resources to replicate a recipe as often as would Cook's Illustrated. So we cannot expect them to test a recipe twenty times or so. The primary ramification is that if you prepare a recipe from a food blog, it might not come out as it did in the blog. Certain factors might not have been considered in the food blog that could affect other home cooks. As long as you understand that point, then you will be prepared.

This is their photo studio where they take pictures for the magazines and cookbooks.  They use all natural light, without any flash, and all of the food is real and not some plastic model.

They have various prop rooms, storing items which will be used only in their photos. There are racks of pots, pans, utensils and more which are never used for cooking but are merely props for pictures. They obviously want the equipment to look pristine so it cannot be used. There is a room containing many plates, dishes, cups and such, all divided by color and wrapped in plastic to keep them safe and clean.

The kitchen, which was renovated in 2005, contains mostly ordinary equipment which you would find at any home. There are only three items of industrial kitchen equipment: a refrigerator, dishwasher, and kitchen hoods. The idea is for their test cooks to replicate the same conditions as any home cook. When the magazine tests kitchen equipment, they will start using the winning equipment in their kitchen. Their ovens commonly run for up to 8 hours a day, and much of the rest of their kitchen equipment gets frequent use too, which means the kitchen must purchase frequent replacements.

There are about 35 professional cooks in their kitchen, and they are all credentialed chefs. It is not easy to get a job at America's Test Kitchen (ATK), and the competition for a spot can be quite fierce. A test cook will usually work on 1-2 recipes per month, alternating writing. researching, and cooking. I wonder whether boredom is an issue for these chefs, as they will be working on only one or two recipes each month. How many times can you make the same dish, before getting bored with the repetition? At least at a restaurant, a chef may be making some of the same dishes all the time, but they have far more variety available to them. It is not like they are restricted to making only a single dish.

Logistically, the kitchen provides some unique challenges. As their need for ingredients changes often, the logistics of obtaining their supplies gets complicated. Much of their work is conducted about six months ahead of the publication date so obtaining seasonal ingredients can be very challenging, especially certain produce. They cannot buy in bulk as they generally must use the same sizes that an average consumer would purchase. So that increase their overall expenses. Each day, the test cooks must submit a list of their needed ingredients by around 2pm and then logistics will compile a master list by 3pm. The list might specify certain brands or sizes. Then, their suppliers will send over those ingredients the next day by 10am. Last year, ATK spent about $525,000 on ingredients alone.

Interestingly, they will sometimes purchase unusual or rare ingredients merely for experimentation, even if the recipes won't end up in the magazine or books. The kitchens shut down every May for about three weeks while they film the 26 episodes of their television show. That must certainly be a very hectic time, trying to produce 13 hours of television in such a short time period. Besides filming in the kitchen, they also sometimes use the small alley and parking lot outside their building for any grilling episodes. That area is also used for test grilling year round, even in the winter.

When ATK conducts blind tests of various food products, everyone in the office gets to taste the products. Certain products, like macaroni & cheese, garner for more employee interest than do items like mayonnaise. Sounds like a nice perk for working at their offices.

While passing by their pantry, I noticed they have some wines and beers in stock. They have not done any taste tests of specific wine or beer brands, and will only list a basic type in recipes, such as Chardonnay. I think that is an area which they might want to address in the future as I think the type of wine or beer used in a recipe is a potentially significant factor. For example, would a recipe differ if you used a lean, fruity and unoaked Chardonnay as opposed to an overly oaked, buttery Chardonnay? If they stated to add a Sherry, would it make a difference whether it was a Fino or Amontillado? With their great concern for ingredients, I would think this is an area which they should care about too.

A new addition to ATK, instituted just a few weeks ago, is their "Wall of Awesome," a compilation of consumer feedback, including tweets, recipe photos, letters and more. Each week, the Wall is replaced with a new collection of items.

One of their latest endeavors is the start of an online cooking school through their website. You will prepare the recipes at your own home, and then submit a photo of your finished dish along with your own assessment of the results.  The instructor will then provide you feedback, helping to point out any areas which require correction. It will be interesting to see how that program works out.

It was intriguing to look behind the curtains of America's Test Kitchen, and it certainly made me think about several different issues. Maybe I will follow up on these questions in the near future.  Meantime, if you have any thoughts on these issues, please add them to the comments.

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