Risotto: Origins, Variations & Rice

"Rice is born in water and dies in wine."
--Italian proverb

Risotto (which means "little rice") is basically an Italian rice dish that has been cooked in a stock until it possesses a creamy consistency. It is a versatile dish, and can be prepared with many different, additional ingredients, from uni to mushrooms, peaches to tomatoes. Preparing risotto can take 25 minutes or more, and usually is said to require constant attention, continually stirring of the rice and stock. Because of that lengthy time, restaurants often partially premake their risotto as they usually wouldn't have the time to make risotto to order.

When done well, risotto can be absolutely delicious, with rich flavors and a delightful creaminess. I have savored some fine risottos at places like Prezza, Posto, A Tavola and Bistro 5. I have a special memory of an impressive Uni Risotto at Le Bernardin in New York City. Risotto is a dish I rarely have at home but which I should, and maybe that will change after the Risotto cooking class I will attend tomorrow night at Lucia Ristorante in Winchester.

“White rice with melted butter and white sugar is not of this world.”
--al-Asma’i

Rice has been known in Italy since the days of ancient Rome however they primarily used rice medicinally, and rarely as a food source. During the Middle Ages, probably around the 14th century, Italians began considering it more as a food and also started growing it, especially in the Lombardy region. The earliest documentation of rice cultivation in Italy dates to 1475 though it is assumed that cultivation actually began before that date. In Lombardy, the Po Valley was considered a perfect place for rice agriculture and rice soon became a staple in this region.

It is also important to note that after the Spanish took possession of the the Duchy of Milan, in the 16th century, they introduced the spice saffron to the region. Saffron is a pricey spice, and it too was once used far more for medicinal purposes rather than as a food ingredient. The Romans valued saffron, cultivating it in Gaul, but after the empire's fall, cultivation seemed to nearly vanish for a time until the Moors seemed to resurrect it. It is likely from the Moors than Spain became enamored with saffron and eventually brought it back to Italy.

"Don’t trust a hungry man to watch your rice."
--Tibetan Proverb

Common belief is that risotto originated in Lombardy sometime during the 16th century. Allegedly, some of the first rice dishes were prepared in a savory or sweet liquid, creating a soft, porridge-like dish and risotto eventually evolved from this dish. Maybe the most famous risotto, Risotto alla Milanese, which is made with saffron, has an "official" date of invention, September 8, 1574. In 2007, the City of Milan recognized several products, such as cassoeula, michetta, ossobuco, and panettone, as specifically Milanese, granting them a Recognition of Communal Denomination (De.Co.). Risotto received this designation as well and they selected September 8, 1574 as the date of birth of this dish.

This date of birth is derived from a legend about the origin of saffron risotto, and like most legends, has several different versions. In the main versions, while the famous Cathedral Duomo Di Milano was being constructed, a Master Glazer, Valerio di Fiandra was in charge of creating the stained glass windows. Saffron was using in preparing some of the colors for the stained glass. Most of the legends claim that one of his apprentices, either as a joke or an act of revenge for a perceived slight, added saffron to one of the rice dishes at a wedding feast, possibly the wedding of Valerio's daughter. The perpetrator of this act never thought that the guests would enjoy the saffron rice dish but they loved it, and Risotto alla Milanese was born. It is also part of the folklore that saffron is an aphrodisiac.

"Rice is the best, the most nutritive and unquestionably the most widespread staple in the world."
--Escoffier

Risotto alla Milanese may be one of the most well known of risotto dishes, but there are many variations in Italy. In Lombardy, you will also find risottos made with snails or pork cutlets. In Venice, they make Risotto al Nero di Sepia, a black risotto prepared with cuttlefish ink. You will also find risotto dishes in the Veneto made with pumpkin, shellfish, asparagus, smoked salmon, radicchio and even frog legs. In the Piedmont, you will find risotto prepared with Barolo wine, and maybe mushrooms, sausage or Borlotti beans. The Piedmontese city of Vercelli is well known for making risotto with frog, and they have even been celebrating a annual frog festival in September since the Middle Ages.

It is a dish that seems to lend itself to creativity, a simple base dish which can be enhanced by any number of ingredients. It can be used as a showcase of seasonal ingredients, and is appropriate year round. One of the most creative risottos I have tasted was made by Chef Vittorio Ettore of Bistro 5 who prepared a Peach Risotto with fresh peaches, Gorgonzola, Prosciutto di Parma & mint oil. I wasn't sure how the peaches would be in the risotto but it all worked so well. A nice blend of sweet, salt and tang.

“Without rice, even the cleverest housewife cannot cook.”
--Chinese proverb

Rice is the most basic component to risotto but not just any rice lead to a compelling dish. In general, you should use a short or medium grain rice with a high starch content. You probably could make a risotto from any type of rice, but the results might not be what you desire as each type of rice has its own different properties and not all rice varieties lend themselves to the chemistry of risotto. Besides the rice types, there are also designations for rice, indicative of their size and shape, such as Superfino, Semifino and Fino. Superfino is the largest grain and generally preferred for risotto. Three rice varieties are primarily used in risotto, including Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano, though you may also hear of varieties such as Baldo, Maratelli, Padano, and Roma.

Arborio rice is the least expensive of the 3 main types though it is not as starchy and doesn't absorb liquids as well as the other two types. It is also easier to overcook so care needs to be taken. Vialone Nano, popular in the Veneto, has more starch and produces a creamier risotto than Arborio. However, the purported king of rice is Carnaroli as it possess lots of starch, absorbs liquids well and the inner starch is firm, allowing the rice kernel to possess a firm texture even after it is cooked, a nice al dente. It is more expensive so the added quality comes with a price.

"Rice is a beautiful food. It is beautiful when it grows, precision rows of sparkling green stalks shooting up to reach the hot summer sun. It is beautiful when harvested, autumn gold sheaves piled on diked, patchwork paddies. It is beautiful when, once threshed, it enters granary bins like a (flood) of tiny seed-pearls. It is beautiful when cooked by a practiced hand, pure white and sweetly fragrant."
--Shizuo Tsuji

What are your thoughts on risotto? What are your favorite restaurants for risotto? What is your favorite risotto recipe? 

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2012: Favorite Restaurants

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

I have already posted several of my drink-related Favorites' lists and and now I want to concentrate on my Favorite Restaurants of the past year. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. You will even find Favorites from outside Massachusetts as I traveled some this past year.

There is also a section later in this post called Consistent Favorites, and it includes a list of a number of restaurants which have been my favorites for subsequent years. Restaurants which are consistently good certainly deserve recognition, and I have tried to note some of those places to which I return again and again. I hope you enjoy all of my recommendations.

Favorite High-End Restaurant: Superb cuisine, an amazing wine list and impeccable service combine to make L'Espalier a Boston treasure. I have dined there before, and always been impressed, and this past year I attended an amazing Barons de Rothschild Champagne lunch and Cheese Tuesday. The restaurant can transform even the simplest of dishes, such as roast chicken, into a wonder. It is well worth the splurge.

Favorite Restaurant Comeback: My last visit to Avila Modern Mediterranean had been a few years ago and my dinner was disappointing. A few others who I spoke to at that time had also reported less than pleasant experiences. However this year, I recently attended a Glenmorangie Scotch dinner at Avila and was surprised at the high quality and creativity of the food. It was an amazing meal with such compelling items like goat cheese croquettes, creamy corn soup, chicken liver ravioli, and braised Waygu beef cheeks. It seems Avila has greatly improved and I will definitely return.

Unfortunate Tragedy to a Favorite Restaurant: Prezza, in the North End, has been one of my favorite high-end Italian spot but this past July the restaurant suffered a kitchen fire. For the last six months, they have been closed as they have conducted extensive repairs and remodeling. This has been a great loss to the community but fortunately it appears the restaurant is set to reopen any day now. When they reopen, please dine there and give them your support. Their food is exceptional and I am sure you will enjoy whatever you order. Good luck to Chef/Owner Anthony Caturano and all his staff.

Favorite Local Food Dinner Series: Numerous Boston area restaurants are emphasizing local ingredients but special kudos must go out to Post 390 for their monthly Farm to Post dinner series. Each month they emphasize a different local purveyor, from farmers to fishermen, and not only use their products but also bring in the purveyors to talk to diners. That helps diners better understand the sources of their food and it also helps immensely that the food is creative and delicious. Check out their Farm to Post dinners.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Old School: Lucia Ristorante, with a second location in Winchester, opened in the North End back in 1977 and recently celebrated its 35th anniversary. It is very much old school yet the food is actually quite tasty. Their chef's skill was quite evident at a fantastic polenta dinner and their anniversary celebration also emphasized their culinary skills. You may not consider Lucia when selecting a North End restaurant, but you should give it some consideration. Their Winchester location also carries excellent pizzas.

Favorite Italian Restaurant Outside the North End: For some of the most creative Italian fare in Boston, you can't go wrong with Erbaluce, Chef Chuck Draghi continues to impress with his unique take on many traditional Italian dishes and the restaurant also has a compelling Italian wine list. How many other restaurants in Boston make fried sunflower heads? His dishes, generally prepared without butters and creams, are often lighter yet still full of flavor. Dine there and check out their ever changing menu or attend one of their compelling events.

Favorite Spanish Restaurant: Chef Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro in Brookline continues to invest great passion into her Spanish cuisine. The restaurant has recently expanded in size, nearly doubling, and have added a bar. They are also adding more Spanish wines to their already expansive wine list, including more Sherries. One of their newest culinary events is Roasted Sucking Pig Tuesdays, which I haven't yet attended but plan to do so soon.    

Favorite Mexican Restaurant: Chef Joe Cassinelli of Pizzeria Posto, one of my favorite Italian spots, opened a second restaurant, The Painted Burro, which offers Mexican cuisine. The food I tasted during my two dinners and brunch there have all impressed, including the Yucatan Meatloaf. I am usually not a meatloaf fan but this opened my eyes to the potential and I cannot recommend it enough. The Burro also has an extensive list of tequilas and mezcals, with plenty of tasty cocktails. A great addition to the local area.

Favorite Suburban Restaurant, Italian: Italian restaurants are ubiquitous in the suburbs, but too many of them are simply average. However, the new A Tavola in Winchester, the second restaurant of Chef Vittorio Ettore (who also owns Bistro 5 in Medford) rises above the masses. Lots of Piattini, small plates, make a great way to start your dinner from their homemade charcuterie to seafood dishes. Then you can move onto their killer pasta, their exceptional risotto, smoky Porchetta and more. It is an intimate restaurant, showcasing the culinary genius of Chef Ettore, and can compete with any Boston restaurant.

Favorite BYOB Restaurant: In the suburbs, you can find a number of BYOB restaurants and one of them is my usual go to spot when I want to bring my own wine or Sake. Kyotoya, in Stoneham, is an inexpensive Japanese restaurant with delicious food, such as superb tempura, and they do not charge a corkage fee. I have dined there numerous times, usually bringing wine or Sake, and those I have introduced to the place have all very much enjoyed it.

Favorite New Hampshire Restaurant: Moxy, situated in Portsmouth, would shine wherever it was located. Chef Matt Louis, with an impressive culinary resume, has created a superb restaurant which emphasizes Spanish inspired tapas, using local ingredients and a New England flair. The food is excellent and the menu concept works well. They also have a good drinks program, from wine to cocktails and including numerous local beers. I would even stop there just for their desserts, such as mini-Whoopie pies. It gets my highest recommendation and I eagerly look forward to my next visit.

Favorite Connecticut Restaurant, Casual: At the Mohegan Sun Casino, there are plenty of restaurants but which one should you select? For amazing fried chicken, in a casual atmosphere, check out Big Bubba's BBQ. The restaurant serves BBQ and southern cuisine and the plates are quite large, stacked high with food. The Finger Lickin Fried Chicken plate included two large chicken breasts and two wings, more than enough chicken to satisfy any craving. It was superb, perfectly cooked, with a nice crispy and well seasoned coating and very moist, tender white meat.

Favorite Connecticut Restaurant, High-End: If you are seeking something more elegant for dinner at the Mohegan Sun, then Bobby Flay's Bar Americain would be a good choice. It has a menu of American favorites, some with a southern flair, as well as plenty of fresh seafood. The food is delicious, well prepared, and worth the high prices. Enjoy their Buttermilk Fried Chicken or Duck with Dirty Wild Rice, Pecans, & Bourbon. I would also highly recommend ordering a side of Hot Potato Chips with Blue Cheese Sauce, a decadent delight with crisp chips and a creamy, tangy sauce.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, Casual: Sometimes you stumble upon a restaurant and end up having a delicious meal. Seeking a quick lunch, I stopped at the Bluegrass Burgers in Louisville, Kentucky, knowing nothing about it beforehand. This burger joint prides itself in serving mostly local ingredients, from their meats to their produce. The Kentucky Grass Fed Bison Burger, topped by local Bleu-Gouda cheese, was an excellent burger, moist with plenty of tasty flavor and the cheese added an intriguing and compelling element. Their sweet potato fries were also addictive, with a bright sweet potato flavor and a crisp exterior. I wish we had a burger place like this in the Boston area.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, Mid-Range: Another restaurant dedicated to local ingredients, Harvest has huge portraits of the farmers they use on their walls. The food, from the Buttermilk Fried Chicken to Crispy Pork Confit, is tasty and reasonably priced. And for dessert, their Bourbon Bread Pudding was amazing, one of the best bread puddings I have tasted. It has a casual ambiance, a good wine list and service was excellent. A great choice in Louisville, Kentucky.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, High-End: After attending the Kentucky Derby, a group of us went to Corbett's for a special post-Derby prix-fixe menu. From a Smoked Salmon Parfait to a Creekstone Tenderloin, the food was exquisite, with killer wine pairings and superb service in an intimate dining area. The cuisine could compete with any high-end restaurant in Boston.

Favorite Nova Scotia Bakery: While visiting Dartmouth, my hotel was just around the corner from the Two If By Sea Cafe, where I had heard they made exceptional croissants. I found that was not an understatement. They are heavier than the usual croissant, containing far more layers, and probably weigh at least twice as much than the usual croissant. Yet they remain flaky and soft throughout the croissant, each bite a pure delight. Their prosciutto & cheese was my favorite, the prosciutto adding a salty flair to the croissant and some of the ham that stuck out the ends was satisfyingly crispy. This is one of the best croissants I have ever tasted, putting to shame so many meager ham & cheese croissants. Highly recommended.

Favorite Nova Scotia Restaurant: In Halifax, Chives Canadian Bistro offers a menu based on seasonal produce from local farmers, artisan cheese and meat producers, and sustainable seafood. The cuisine offers contemporary Canadian bistro dishes rooted in European culinary history. It is an intimate place, with cool decor, and the food and wine impressed. General Tao's Bacon, New Orleans Po' Boy Sandwich, Lobster Tagliatelle and more. The chef has won numerous awards and they are well deserved.

Favorite Carnivore Dinner: It is no secret that I love meat. When I traveled to Tuscany, I had a dinner that would have satiated even the most demanding carnivore. At the Officina della Bistecca, famed butcher Dario Cecchini offers an incredible prix fixe meal, which includes five courses of beef. All of the meat was superb, especially the beef tartare, which melted in my mouth. Cecchini uses high quality beef, simply prepared, and the flavor fills your mouth with joy. Seated at communal tables, dinner is more of an experience than simply a meal. My highest recommendation.

Favorite Dessert: At the Red Lantern in Boston, their Pineapple Bread Pudding, with coconut ice cream, was superb, a perfect blend of tropical flavors. The bread pudding had a nice firm, but soft, texture and it was bursting with fresh pineapple flavors. I really think an enterprising baker should open a bread pudding dessert shop, offering a variety of different bread puddings. Forget cup cakes, let us see more bread puddings.

Consistent Favorites

Favorite Brunch, Traditional Fare: For a third year, the winner is AKA Bistro in Lincoln.

Brunch, Traditional Fare-Honorable Mention: For a third year, my choice is Tupelo in Inman Square.

Favorite Brunch, Non-Traditional Fare: For the fourth year in a row, the winner is Myers & Chang in the South End.

Favorite Suburban Restaurant: For the third year in a row, the winner is AKA Bistro in Lincoln.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: For a third year, the winner is Oishii in the South End.

Favorite Chinatown Restaurant: For a third year, the winner is Gourmet Dumpling House.

Favorite Somerville Restaurant: Last year, Bergamot was my Overall Favorite Restaurant and it continues to be worthy of kudos. I haven't been there as much this past year but need to remedy that in the new year. My highest recommendation.

Favorite Underappreciated Restaurant: For the third year, the winner is T.W. Food in Cambridge.

Favorite Asian Buffet: For a fourth year, the winner is Taipei Tokyo Cafe in Woburn.

Favorite North End Restaurant, High End: For a third year, the winnner is Prezza.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Moderate: For a third year, the winner is Nebo.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Fusion: For a third year, the winner is Taranta.

Favorite Italian Restaurant, Somerville: For a third year, the winner is Pizzeria Posto.

Favorite Suburban Steak House: For a fourth year, the winner is Beacon Grille in Woburn. 

Favorite Fried Seafood: For a third year, the winner is the Clam Box in Ipswich.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

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2012: Favorite Wine Related Items

What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2012. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Once again, this past year has been an economic challenge and wine prices have been on everyone's mind. Consumers want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight two such stores which do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree and Wine Connextion in North Andover. These stores have remained consistent over time, offering diverse and interesting bargain wines and you won't go wrong checking either of them out.

Favorite Suburban Wine & Cheese Store: Though I have visited the Concord Cheese Shop in prior years, I hadn't been there for at least a year or so until visiting it a couple of times this past year. I was reminded once again why it is an excellent destination for wine, cheese and gourmet foods. The wine selection is diverse, prices are good and you will find some wines here that many other stores do not carry. And all of their cheeses, a myriad of dairy pleasures, will please everyone. This is another shop you should patronize.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a list of nine wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls.
Winestone in Chestnut Hill.
The Reserve Bin in Foxboro.
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose.
Vintages: Adventures in Wine in Belmont.
Spirited Gourmet in Belmont.
Wine-Sense in Andover.
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End.
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge.

Favorite Wine Magazine: For the fourth year in a row, Decanter, a British wine magazine, continues to impress me with its extensive coverage, including many less common wine regions, often ignored or marginalized in other wine publications. Plus it has an amusing wine cartoon in every issue. This is a magazine that consistently delivers fascinating articles and I always look forward to each issue. If you are not reading it, you should be.

Favorite Wine Book: Last year, my Favorite Wine Book was the first volume of The Drops of God, a Japanese manga, a comic book, about wine. Besides entertaining, the book also educated people about wine, helping to reduce the intimidation factor. In addition, some of the language it uses, especially in describing wine is quite poetic. During the past year, three more volumes have been released and once again I have selected it as my Favorite Wine Book. Check out my reviews of Volume 2, Volume 3 and New World. Every wine lover should read this series. Unfortunately, more volumes may not be published unless the books start generating more sales. Give this book a chance and you won't regret it.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Book: The New York Times Book Of Wine offers an excellent selection of over 125 articles, written by about 28 different authors. It is not a collection of boring tasting notes but rather many thoughtful pieces on a great range of wine topics such as Spanish Sherry, the Japanese Koshu grape, serving alcohol to your children, Txakolina, Madeira, and natural winemaking. These are articles that everyone can enjoy, from those new to wine to the knowledgeable wine geeks. These articles will educate and entertain, and may even getting you thinking about wine in different ways.

Favorite Introductory Wine Book: For someone new to wine, Kevin Zraly's Windows On The World Complete Wine Course is an excellent choice. It presents a nice overview of the world of wine without deluging a reader with too much technical information. Though I have some issues with the presentation of certain wine information, it is still one of the best introductory books available. It is a fine starting point for a wine education.

Favorite Wine Dinner, Domestic: Indigenous and uncommon grapes, compelling wines, superb food, and great people all combined to create an exceptional wine dinner. Legal Harborside hosted Alessio Planeta of Planeta Wines, which owns six wine estates on Sicily. From a Sparkling wine made from Carricante to a red made with Nerello Mascele, many of the wines were fascinating and delicious, while the food, such as Ricotta Gnocchi with truffles and the Lobster Soup were amazing. It was fun and informative, tasty and stimulating.

Favorite Wine Dinner, International: This was an easy choice for a meat lover such as I. While in Chianti Classico, I had the honor of dining at the Antica Macelleria Cecchini, the renowned restaurant of Dario Cecchini, the signing butcher of Panzano. Dario is an extraordinary butcher and offers a prix fixe dinner with five courses of beef, some of the best beef you may ever eat. The steak tartare was simply prepared yet was outstanding, showcasing the taste of the quality beef and not hiding it behind lots of other ingredients. Plus, Dario is a true showman and made it an enjoyable experience. I could have dined here every night while I was in Tuscany. If you visit Tuscany, you must dine here at least once.

Favorite Single Winery Tasting: For the second year in a row, the same winery is involved in this category, though the location was different. As I mentioned last year, the wines of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region can be amazing, and Chateau La Nerthe is a stellar producer from this area. Last year, I tasted the wines at a superb lunch at L'Espalier and this year the lunch was held at Bistro du Midi. From the compelling Tavel Rosé to the 2009 Chateau La Nerthe "Clos de Beauvenir" Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, the wines did not disappoint. They paired well with delicious dishes such as the Coral Infused Chitarra Pasta with Maine Lobster. These are wines worth a splurge.

Favorite High-End Wine Tasting: The Vintus Tour presented 26 wineries, from all over the world, showcasing many higher end wines that reflected terroir, many which are also sustainable, organic or biodynamic. This was a stellar collection of wines, presenting many unique wines which impressed me, and it was a pleasure to get to chat with many of the wine makers. As it was a portfolio tasting, closed to the public, it was not overly crowded so you had the opportunity to take your time with the wines and ask the wine makers questions. Several of these wines ended up on my Top Wine lists.

Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. Recently, he held a fascinating blind tasting of 90+ Cellars wines against a group of wines he handpicked to compete against them. This was an intriguing challenge and the results were enlightening. Plenty of great people attended the tasting and everyone enjoyed themselves. Unpretentious and casual, it was the type of wine tasting which would appeal to wine lovers of any knowledge levels. I look forward to Adam's next blind tasting event in January.

Favorite Wine Trip, International: Though it was also my only international wine trip this year, my visit to the Chianti Classico region was excellent, with great food, wine, scenery, people and more. Compared to other wine trips I have taken, it was certainly one of my favorites. My trip generated a dozen blog posts and several of the wines I tasted ended up on my Top Wine lists this year. Tuscany is so beautiful and the people were extremely nice. The food was often simple yet made from high quality and delicious ingredients. And so many delicious wines, from traditional Chianti Classico to compelling Vin Santo. It is a region I highly recommend.

Favorite Winery Visit: While in Chianti Classico, I was fortunate to get to visit the Isole e Olena winery, owned by Paolo di Marchi, the Philosopher-Peasant of Chianti Classico. I have met Paolo before but this was my first visit to his winery and it lived up to my expectations. You can read my thoughts in a two-part post (Part 1 and Part 2), but in short, the wines were superb, Paolo was fascinating and I learned much about the winery and the Chianti Classico region in general. I could have easily spent the entire day with Paolo, soaking in his knowledge and experience, while enjoying his amazing Cepparello.

Favorite Mega-Wine Event: Due to their size, large wine exhibitions can have their issues, especially due to the great crowds they generate. My favorite this year of these mega-events was the Mohegan Sun Wine Fest. Besides wine, they also present spirits, beer, and cider as well as plenty of food. The aisles between the tables are wide, there are two floors in the Grand Tasting and they seem to accommodate the crowds better than other events. In addition, besides a Grand Tasting, the Wine Fest has other excellent events such as an Elite Cru Tasting and a Celebrity Chef Dine Around. Several wines from this event ended up on my Top Wine lists this year and I look forward to this event next year.

Favorite Local Wine Bloggers: Locally, there is only a small number of blogs dedicated 50% or more to wine, being far outweighed by hundreds of local food blogs, some which occasionally touch on wine. But of that small group, there are a number who deserve praise for their devotion to wine. I see many of these people at local wine events and they have become good friends too. Kudos to Adam of Wine Zag, Robert of The Wellesley Wine Press, Rob of Fringe Wine, Jason of Ancient Fire Beverage, Todd of Vermont Wine Media and Marie of The Life of Vines. Please check out their wine blogs.

Top Wine Controversy: During the past year, I have ranted, usually on Mondays, about a variety of wine issues. But one of the most popular rants addressed the question of why a number of restaurant reviewers ignore wine in their reviews? It befuddles me that a restaurant review, which should comprehensively address the offerings of a restaurant, would ignore an important element such as the alcohol program. In my rant, I used the Boston Globe to illustrate this issue, showing how their main reviewer often ignored or gave short shrift to the wine and alcohol programs of most of the restaurants reviewed during the summer. I never received any response but plenty of others voiced their agreement that reviewers did a disservice by ignoring restaurant beverage programs.

Favorite Wine History Post: History intrigues me and I very much enjoy researching and writing histories about wine, though I often try to reach quite far back into history, to see the true roots of a wine and its region. This year, I wrote a four part series on The Origins of Port, extending back to the Phoenicians and proceeding through the formation of the nation of Portugal. Many other histories of Port begin much later, like during the 17th century but I felt the true origins lay many centuries earlier. I learned much in my researches and hope my readers benefited from it too.

Favorite Local Wine News: In 2011, a new law allowed local wineries to sell their wines at farmers markets and festivals. I saw that as very positive for local wineries and a later study showed its success. In 2011, sales of Massachusetts wines increased by an amazing 66%, primarily due to their ability to sell wine at the markets and festivals. Great news for local businesses during these tough economic times. Let us hope their success continued into 2012.

Kudos For Sherry Love:  I love Spanish Sherry, from Fino to Oloroso, Manzanilla to Palo Cortado. Unfortunately, that places me in a tiny minority as Sherry, especially dry Sherry, is very much a niche beverage in the U.S. But locally, Sherry is gaining more love, especially by two restaurants, Tres Gatos and Taberna de Haro. Tres Gatos, in Jamaica Plain, now hosts Sherry Tuesdays, where you can sample sherries with pinchos. Taberna de Haro has recently expanded their restaurant and now carries 27 different Sherries, and will be adding more too. Both restaurants deserve big kudos for their passion and support of Sherry.

New Wine Job: Last February, I started a new endeavor, a part time job at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose. It has been fun and educational, helping customers select wines, providing recommendations and more. It provides an interesting glimpse into the mind of the wine consumer and has also fueled a number of blog posts. Stop by the store some time and let me help you choose some wines. Besides the wine, the store also stocks some delicious gourmet and artisan foods, so you have one stop shopping for a party.

What were some of your favorite wine related items this year?

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Morellino Di Scansano: Sunflowers & Sangiovese

When is the last time you ate a sunflower head? I am sure plenty of people may have eaten sunflower seeds, yet that is not the only edible portion of the sunflower plant. In fact, most of the plant is edible and Native Americans have been using sunflowers as food for thousands of years. My first experience eating a sunflower head was at Erbaluce, a creative Italian restaurant which I have long recommended, and it was paired with Sangiovese-based wines.

Chef Charles Draghi of Erbaluce recently hosted several wine makers from the Morellino Di Scansano DOCG for a small, informal wine luncheon. This wine region is located in southern Tuscany, in the Maremma, around the village of Scansano. Interestingly, the wine from this area is sometimes known as "wine without history" because their fame has only arisen recently. Morellino Di Scansano became a DOC in 1978 and a DOCG in 2006, starting with the 2007 vintage. However, wine making in this area extends back to the ancient Etruscans and Romans so it actually has a lengthy and intriguing history.

Currently, the region of Morellino Di Scansano has approximately 1500 hectares of vineyards with about 120 wineries and 2 cooperatives. Their annual production is approximately 10-11 million bottles, less than 1 million cases. The Consorzia Tutela Vino Morellino Di Scansano, an organization formed to help promote the wines of this area, was founded in 1992 and now has over 200 members, representing about two-thirds of the production of the region.

The word "Morellino" is the local name for the "Sangiovese" grape though its origin is a bit murky. Some people believe the term comes from "morello," which is the color "brown", the color of Maremmano horses. Others think it comes from the "Morello" cherry, a prominent flavor found in Sangiovese. According to their regulations, Morellino red wines must contain at least 85% Sangiovese and the other 15% may contain grapes such as Canaiolo, Ciliegiole, Malvasia, Colorino, Alicante, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

As both Morellino and Chianti are located in Tuscany, and both use Sangiovese, some comparisons between the two seems natural. We should note that red wines in Chianti must contain at least 80% Sangiovese, a slightly smaller percentage than in Morellino. Though that difference is only 5%, that can have a significant impact on the wines.What is probably a greater difference though is the climate. As Morellino is in the south, its climate tends to be warmer so that the Sangiovese grapes tend to be riper. The effect is that the wines of Morellino can be softer and enjoyed earlier than the wines of Chianti. The wines of Chianti tend to have stronger tannins which benefit from oak aging. Later in this post, I will post my own thoughts on the comparisons of Morellino and Chianti.

Morellino wines can be basically separated into three categories. The basic wine is fresh and fruity, seeing no oak, while the intermediate wine sees about 4-12 months of oak aging. The reserva category sees at least a year in oak, and a year in the bottle, and possesses more spice notes. Like most Italian wines, they are made to be paired with food, and like most Tuscan fare, the cuisine of Morellino commonly relies upon excellent ingredients, prepared simply.

The dishes for our lunch were creative and compelling, and the wine pairing was interesting, showcasing how red wines can work with a variety of dishes, including seafood and sunflowers!

Our first course was a sunflower head, stuffed with ricotta and covered with breadcrumbs. An unusual dish,  the sunflower had a slightly chewy texture, with a creaminess from the ricotta and some nutty and herbal flavors. The Morellino wines, with their slightly rustic nature, actually worked with this dish. Who would have thought that sunflowers and Sangiovese would work?

For our second coarse, we had local squid with an incredible sauce of roasted lobster with tamale and coral. The slightly charred squid was not rubbery and the savory sauce worked well with the Morellino wines. That sauce would probably be delicious with other seafood dishes too.

Next up was my favorite course of the lunch, pappardelle with wild boar, an amazing, hearty dish with perfectly cooked pasta and plenty of tender, savory meat. I could have easily eaten another dish of this pasta and it worked perfectly with the wines. In Morellino, wild boar is a common dish so it makes sense why the wines paired so well. A perfect autumn dish.

For dessert, we enjoyed a warm chocolate bread pudding with cherries and spices, topped with some buckwheat honey and opal basil. The fruits, spices and herbal notes complemented those similar flavors in the Morellino wines.

During the course of lunch, we sampled seven different wines, from five producers. In general, I enjoyed the wines, finding them mostly to be easy drinking wines with plenty of fruit, mild tannins, and good acidity. Many of the Morellino wines reminded me more of traditional style Chianti Classico wines, a little rustic and restrained, though a couple were more modern in style. I much preferred those that reflected a more traditional style.

The 2011 Azienda Bruni Marteto is in the basic category, which also seems to be known as the fresh version, and it is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Syrah and 5% Alicante. It sees no oak and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It has delicious black cherry flavors, nice acidity, and is a bit rustic. A pleasant, easy drinking wine.

I tasted both the 2010 and 2011 Fattoria Le Pupille, each a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Malvasia Nera. These also see no oak and have an alcohol content of 13.5%. I loved the 2011, finding it fresh, fruity, rustic and with hints of spice. Very easy drinking, nice character and quite delicious. One of my favorite wines of the lunch. The 2010 was a bit more restrained and subtle, though also a pleasant wine.

The 2011 La Selva, which is 100% certified organic, is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. It is also a fresh style with an alcohol content of 14%. It was very fruity, lots of bright cherry flavors, and very easy drinking though tending a bit more toward a modern style. A simple and pleasant wine.

In comparison, the 2010 Tenuta Pietramora Di Collefagiano Brumaio is produced from 100% Sangiovese, sees no oak aging, and only has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It is an elegant and more austere wine, with strong black cherry and earthy notes. A more traditional Sangiovese, I was impressed with its character. An excellent food wine, and it brought back me to Tuscany in my mind.

Then, we drank two wines from the same winery, including the 2010 Tenute Coste, which is also produced from 100% Sangiovese, sees no oak aging, and has an alcohol content of 14%. Again, this is a more traditional style with a fine melange of black cherry, spice, and earthiness with a good acidity. The 2009 Tenute Coste Ventaio is a blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, has an alcohol content of 14% and sees a little oak aging. The Cabernet seemed prominent, and it was more of a modern style with bold red fruit flavors.

This exposure to the wines of Morellino Di Scansano was enlightening and has encouraged me to seek out more of their wines. Their entry level wines should please wine lovers, and make for very good food wines. Chef Draghi also created a tasty lunch, and I once again urge my readers to check out his restaurant Erbaluce.

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Planeta Wines: Indigenous Treasures of Sicily

Carricante, Frappato, Grecanico, Nera d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese. Bring on those indigenous Italian grapes and let me taste their uniqueness. You can find Cabernet Sauvignon almost anywhere in the world, but these grapes are almost exclusively found in Italy. Thus, when I received a media invite to a luncheon with Alessio Planeta of Planeta Wines in Sicily, to taste wines made from some of these indigenous grapes, I was eager to attend.

The event was held at Legal Harborside, which I had not previously visited, and it is an impressively designed restaurant. Three stories, lots of glass and the back looks out on the harbor, which can be a stunning view dependent on the weather. The first floor is intended to be more casual while the second floor is more elegant, and the third floor is a year round deck lounge.

On the second floor, there is a large and clean open kitchen. I do love open kitchens.

The dining room on the second floor is elegant, with great windows so that you can benefit from the view of the water. A nice place for a romantic date, a business meeting, or a gathering of friends.

On the second floor, there is also an outside deck area, which would be a perfect place for dining during the summer. It is here where we began our exploration of the wines of Planeta, which owns six wineries in Sicily.

Planeta Wines is less than 20 years old, having been founded in 1995 by three cousins: Alessio, Francesca and Santi Planeta. They now own 6 distinct wine estates, totaling about 390 hectares of vineyards, across Sicily, including Ulmo at Sambuca di Sicilia, Dispensa at Menfi, Dorilli at Vittoria, Buonivini at Noto, Sciara Nuova on Etna at Castiglione di Sicilia, and La Baronia at Capo Milazzo. They are  devoted to environmental sustainability, and continue to work at making their wineries as environmentally friendly as possible. The reason they do so is: "Because the land and the environment are a collective benefit as well as the company’s heritage, and it is a duty to make every effort to preserve it.".

Alessio Planeta, pictured above, was personable and down to earth, obviously passionate about wine and Sicily. He is the the Chief Winemaker at Planeta, and has also been working to identify unique terroirs in Sicily. Interestingly, the harvest in Sicily can take about 3 months, especially as the Carricante often won't get picked until the later part of October. Though Sicily is well known for its red wines, Alessio feels that white wines do very well too, and based on what we tasted, I would wholeheartedly agree with him.

Though Sicily has intriguing indigenous grapes, and Planeta produces wines from many of them, they have also introduced some international grapes as well, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. They believe that wineries worldwide are often judged based on wines made from such grapes, as well as the fact that consumers are far more willing to purchase wines made from those grapes rather than some exotic Italian grapes. It is much easier to sell a Chardonnay than a Carricante. I understand their reasoning, but for me, it is those indigenous grapes which I find the most compelling. It is the indigenous grapes to me which often seem to best reflect the terroir.

As we mingled on the outside patio, we got to sample the NV Etna Brut, which is produced from 100% Carricante from the Mount Etna region. Carricante, also known as Catanese Bianco, is a white grape thought to extend back to the 9th century and is primarily found in the Etna region. It is a late maturing grape, thrives in high altitudes and has a high acidity which allows it to age well. Mount Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe, and the third largest in the world. Its black lava sands contain a rich mineral content, which tends to produce wines that show strong mineral notes. The Carricante vineyard consists of 16 hectares, located at an altitude of about 870 meters.

This is the first vintage of this Brut, only 6000 bottles were produced and it is not yet available in the U.S. It remains on the lees for at least 12 months before disgorgement and has an alcohol content of 12.5%. This was a delicious sparkling wine, crisp and clean with flavors of green apple, lemon and a thread of minerality. A fine apertif, it would pair well with a variety of foods as well, from seafood to cheese. Though it isn't available here yet, it was educational to experience the potential of the indigenous Carricante. As I believe this was the first time I had ever tasted a wine made from this grape, I was impressed.

My education on the Carricante continued, as I got to taste a still wine as well. As we watched a short video about Planeta, with gorgeous imagery of Sicily, we sampled the 2010 Carricante ($36), a white, still wine also made from 100% Carricante. It remains on the lees until the February after harvest when it is then bottled. It has a light gold color with an exciting aroma of apples and floral notes. On the palate, it was crisp, clean and complex with a dominant steely minerality and subtle fruit flavors, including pear and green apple. A lengthy and satisfying finish, this would be an excellent seafood wine and it should age very well too. Another stunning wine, I would heartily recommend it.

It was then time to sit for lunch and the first course was a delicious Ricotta Gnocchi with truffle and squash. There was a delectable creaminess, enhanced by the earthiness of the truffles, and it was paired with two wines, a 1998 Chardonnay and the 2010 Cometa. The 14 year old Chardonnay still possessed a good amount of life, and was enjoyable, but still could have been produced almost anywhere. I was more interested in the 2010 Cometa ($43), which is made 100% Fiano and sees no oak. The Cometa was aromatic with an intriguing taste, a complex blend of more tropical fruits, a touch of honey and a backbone of minerality. It paired well with the dish, and though pricey, should appeal to a wine lover seeking something more unique.

As we savored a superb and creamy Lobster Soup with a puff pastry, we enjoyed two wines, different vintages, 2004 and 2010, of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which is a blend of 60% Nero d'Avola and 40% Frappato. The 2004 was an amazing wine, with its enticing aroma of dark berries and earthy notes that led to its seductive and complex flavors. Black and blue fruits, minerality, hints of herbs and other tantalizing yet elusive flavors that flitted back and forth in my mouth. Smooth, with nice acidity, the finish was lengthy and satisfying. My highest recommendation, especially considering the price of the latest vintage. The 2010 ($23) is a bigger wine, with stronger tannins, and doesn't seem as complex. It was still tasty, with more red fruit flavors, but I think the wine might benefit from a bit of aging. If it ultimately becomes like the 2004, it will be a killer wine.

With a course of Roasted Sablefish, we drank two different vintages, 2005 and 2007, of the Santa Cecilia, produced from 100% Nero d'Avola. This wine generally sees 12 months aging in French Allier oak, 2nd and 3rd use. The 2005 was excellent, with a spicy aroma and a light, easy drinking style despite its complexity. Delicious red fruits, spice accents and mild tannins. The 2007 ($43) is a bigger wine though not a powerhouse. A similar flavor profile, though with brighter, bolder elements. I would love to drink these wines with a hearty pasta dish. Another strong recommendation.

The Roasted Beef Tenderloin with blue cheese, pureed potatoes, and port wine sauce was superb, a tender, flavorful slice of beef with an addictive sauce. The two wines with this course were the 2004 and 2006 Burdese, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc. These wines did nothing for me, and I felt they had too much of a green pepper/vegetal taste for my own preferences, though others seemed to enjoy them.

For dessert, the Mocha Macadamia Mousse Cake was rich, chocolaty and sweet, as well as beautifully presented. The 2010 Nerello, from Mount Etna, was produced from 100% Nerello Mascalese and aged in oak barriques for 8-10 months. This is its first vintage and it possessed a very light red color with a strong cherry aroma. On the palate, it was light, lively and elegant, with touches of cherry and spice. A fine ending to the dinner, and it did pair well with the chocolate.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1) Continuing the monthly A Taste of Italy tour, A Tavola introduces its new menu from August 1-18, Tuesday through Saturday, from 5pm-10pm, Featuring a three-course dinner, Chef Vittorio Ettore takes guests on an educational and culinary tour through his favorite regions of Italy. He explains his techniques and inspirations throughout the meal, giving his guests not just a taste of Italy, but also a complete culinary experience of the chosen region.

This month, Chef Ettore leaves the mainland for the island of Sardegna. Positioned in the heart of the Mediterranean between Spain and Italy, this month’s menu draws inspiration from both east and west. The menu features Sardinian favorites such as Malloreddus, a smaller gnocchi made of semolina rather than potatoes, and Botarga, a dried fish roe that is traditionally used as a condiment. Inspired by the nearby Spanish region of Catalonia, Aragosta alla Catalana features a Spanish-influenced lobster dish typical of Sardegna. The three-course meal closes with the island’s traditional dessert, a sweet cheese ravioli known as Sebadas.

The full menu consist of:
--Malloreddus, Arselle e Botarga (Sardinian Saffron Semolina Gnocchi, Clams and Botarga)
(Cured Mullet Fish Roe)
--Aragosta alla Catalana (Warm Lobster, Wright Locke Farm Heirloom Tomatoes, Red Onions, Basil and Lemon)
--Sebadas (Crispy Ricotta Ravioli, Lemon Zest, Honey and Pistachio Gelato)

In addition to this three-course dinner, A Tavola is now offering Saturday Lunch. The more refined menu features familiar dinner favorites as well as new lunchtime options. Rucula Salad, Pasta Bolognese, Porchetta Sandwiches, and Grilled Margherita Flatbreads are just a few dishes that Chef Ettore brings “to the table” for lunch. The daytime menu still embodies A Tavola’s rustic approach to Italian cuisine, representing their commitment to serving eclectic Italian dishes with fresh, local ingredients.

Cost: Pre fixe Sardegna menu is $49 per person; each course is also available A la Carte – Appetizer is $15, Entrée is $29, and Dessert is $9.
Reservations are welcome by calling 781-729-1040

2) Legal Sea Foods will celebrate its 4th annual Oyster Festival returns this fall. From September 19 through October 16, Legal Sea Foods restaurants will celebrate everything oysters via menu features and special events.

“Our oyster bars are a hallmark of our restaurants,” observed Roger Berkowitz, President and CEO of Legal Sea Foods. “And no longer should oysters be just the favorites of gastronomes. We want to educate all our guests and encourage experimentation. We’d like everyone to share the belief of the idiomatic saying, ‘the world is your oyster.’”

Special events will be held at various Legal locations and will include: Shellfish Shindig, a ‘shuckout’ of $1 oysters at Charles Square’s vast outdoor Terrace Bar (September 23 from 2-4pm; a la carte pricing); Oyster Brewhaha, a four-course oyster and craft beer dinner at the Kendall Square location (October 2 at 6:30pm; $65 per person); Sip Slurp and Sup, a trio of small plates paired with oyster-friendly wines hosted in the Park Square location’s 10,000 bottle wine cellar (October 3 at 6:30pm; $45 per person); and, the grand finale event, Mollusk Mania, an “everything oysters” party featuring a raw bar of eight varieties and four passed appetizers on the all-weather rooftop at Legal Harborside (October 7 from 2-4pm; $40 per person).

3) Haru’s Boston location is celebrating its 5th Birthday with a special summer sweepstakes that comes neatly packaged: mystery envelopes. Beginning today through October, Haru will celebrate this milestone by offering their loyal patrons and friends a chance to win prizes.

To play, simply visit Haru in Boston from August 1 through October 1 to receive your mystery envelope (while supplies last). DO NOT OPEN THE ENVELOPE. On your next visit to Haru Boston on or before October 20th (must be a different day than when mystery envelope was received), present the still-sealed mystery envelope to a manager to see what treasure awaits. Will it be a $10 Haru gift certificate? A complimentary sushi roll? A $100 AMEX gift card? Or even the grand prize of $500 in AMEX gift cards? Everyone “wins.” Even guests who don’t win, win: holders of non-winning envelopes will receive a gift of a complimentary order of edamame. And the more you frequent Haru Boston, the more envelopes you can collect so come often and come hungry (subject to limit of one envelope per person/household per twelve hour period).

No purchase necessary. Must be 18 or older. Most participants will receive complimentary order of edamame. Odds of winning a prize are 1:11. Subject to Official Rules posted at Haru Boston and available at www.harusushi.com.

4) Post 390  invite you to come sink your teeth into a dog, a Pearl hot dog that is. Post 390 is hosting an indoor BBQ every Sunday-Wednesday in August from 5-7pm featuring all of your summer favorites including savory bbq chicken, fresh oysters, pulled pork sliders served with slaw and pickled watermelon rind and Pearl hot dogs. Each menu item is offered for under $3 apiece. Wash it all down with the bar's signature Gn'T - beefeater gin mixed with fresh lemongrass and house-made lemongrass tonic water and bitters.

Menu: $3 Pearl All Beef Hot Dogs, $3 BBQ Chicken, $3 Pulled Pork Sliders, $1 Oysters & More

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Chianti Classico: Events & Wine Recommendations

So much Chianti Classico wine! And that is far from a complaint.

During our stay in Tuscany, we attended a number of events of the Chianti Classico è, a ten day festival celebrating the wines and foods of this beautiful and fascinating region. At each of those events, the wines flowed freely and I tasted many different wines from this region, from Chianti Classico to IGT wines. I want to provide a brief summary of some of these events, to give you an overview of the festival, as well as to provide a number of wine recommendations. The festival is an annual event, and it is an excellent way to experience the region.

But first I want to start with something that was not on our itinerary, but worthy of mention. On my first day in Tuscany, I had some free time to wander the historical city of Florence. I walked to the San Lorenzo Central Mercado, a large food market, as I had heard good things about it and I desired lunch. After haggling a bit, and buying two coats, at one of the myriad leather shops surrounding the market, I ventured inside and wandering down the rows of food stalls.

One of the most famous stalls in this market is Nerbone, a restaurant counter where you can order sandwiches and other meals. One of their specialties is the panino con bollito, a boiled beef sandwich that sells for only 3.50 Euros. The meat is topped with both a spicy red sauce as well as a green pesto sauce while the roll is fresh, though hearty and dense. The sandwich was quite tasty, with plenty of tender meat, very little fat, and with a strong spicy kick on the finish. A great bargain sandwich and well worth checking it out. Just get there early before the long lines start forming.

Our initial dinner in the Chianti Classico region was the inaugural event of the festival, the Pentecost in Castellina dinner. This event was held under the vaulted loggias, essentially a lengthy tunnel, which was a fascinating setting for this event. With all the stonework, it added an air of the medieval to the dinner, as well as protected us from the rain. It was a festive occasion and we were all made to feel very welcome. The Ristorante Albergaccio in Castellina catered the tasty dinner, with traditional items such as polenta, ravioli and risotto. In addition, we had plenty of Chianti Classico wines to taste, a mix of both traditional and modern styles. For the most part, I preferred the more traditional ones.

One of my favorite events was the Gallo Nero & Street Food Festival, which showcased street foods from all over Italy with a multitude of Chianti Classico wines. Food came from regions such as Abruzzo, Liguria, Sicilia, Romagna, Marche, and Toscana. In addition, the special guest country was Argentina, which offered a variety of grilled meats, a gift for your inner carnivore. We traveled from booth to booth, sampling the diversity of available cuisine, finding much to enjoy, from porchetta sandwiches to cannolis.

My clear favorite of the evening though was from the Sicilia booth, their Arancini. These are basically rice croquettes filled with a meat and pea filling. I have eaten many different Arancinis, but this was one of the best that I have ever tasted. About the size of my fist, the arancini was cooked perfectly, with a crisp coating, and contained plenty of a moist meat filling, which helped to prevent it from being dry. Too many arancini skimp on the meat filling so they sometimes can be too dry and chewy. This arancini was bursting with flavor, and I had to enjoy a second one too.

In the historic town of Greve, we dined for lunch one day at the Ristorante Da Verrazzano, participating in the semifinals of the Homemakers’ Trophy, a cooking contest that pits various cities and towns in Chianti Classico against each other. You can see some of the cooks above, local homemakers who prepared territorial dishes. At this seminfinal, Castellina and Radda competed, each preparing a three course lunch and we got to taste both of the dishes from each course. We then voted for which of the two dishes we enjoyed the most.

My overall favorite dish was the Galletto all Toscana, which is rooster. Rooster seems to be common in this region as we had it a couple other times during our time in Tuscany. It was moist, tender and flavorful and it is a dish that probably should be more prominent in the U.S. too. After the voting was tallied, the winner was Castellina, taking two of the three courses and my votes coincided with all three of the winning dishes. Radda won the Primi course for their pasta dish and then Castellina won for their Galletto and Torta. We were not in Tuscany during the Finals, but Castellina faced Greve, and it was Greve who ultimately won the competition.

One of the most unusual wine pairing events I have ever attended was at the Goals di-vini event. Chianti Classico and European football? The Italians are certainly passionate about both, so with days before the start of the  European Football Championship, they decided to pair these two interests. We watched films of some historic football goals, and Daniele Cernilli, formerly of the renowned Gambero Rosso, paired a wine with each of those goals. Overall, we tasted 14 different wines, and though I am not a huge football fan, it was exciting to watch these amazing goals, to see the incredible skills of the players. We enjoyed some excellent wines as well. Mmmm..which wines should we pair with hockey?

Now onto to some wine recommendations.

The Fattoria di Rodano winery is located in the Castellina region and was located on an ancient pilgrimage route. There was even once a Benedictine house on the property which was a rest stop for these pilgrims. In 1958, Carlos Pozzesi, a medical officer, bought the estate and planted vineyards. Currently, the estate constitutes about 100 hecatres, with one-third possessing vines. They produce traditional style Chianti Classico and I was impressed with their wines.

I tasted both their 2006 and 2007 Chianti Classicos, which are a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo & Colorino. The wine is aged for about 18 months, 80% in Slavonian oak barrel and 20% in barrique. They are elegant and rustic wines, with a nice depth of flavor and are excellent food wines. The 2004 Viacosta Chianti Classico Riserva is 100% Sangiovese from the Viacosta vineyard. It was aged for about 24 months, 60% in French oak and 20% of that is new. It had an alluring aroma and on the palate it was superb! Complex, elegant, rustic, spicy, and with a lengthy and pleasing finish. One of my favorite wines of the entire trip and an excellent example of the potential of Sangiovese.

The Bibbiano winery, owned by Tommaso and Frederico Marrocchesi Marzi, possesses about 25 hectares of vineyards and they still use many old agricultural methods. The 2009 Montornello Chianti Classico is more of a traditional style, with prominent fruit flavors, but also some nice spice and hints of earthiness. Elegant and delicious. The 2007 Vigna del Capannino Chianti Classico Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from the del Capannino vineyard. It too is elegant and delicious, with more spice notes, greater complexity, restrained ripe fruit, violet notes and a lengthy, satisfying finish. A winery you should notice.

The 2004 Vegi Silvio Chiostri Chianti Classico Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese and has a light red color with nice, restrained cherry flavors and hints of earthiness and spice. Very good acidity made this an excellent food wine. Another traditional style wine which appealed to me.

The 2007 San Fabiano Calcinaia Cellole Chianti Classico Riserva is mostly Sangiovese with a touch of Merlot. As such, it seems a bit more modern in style, but still is restrained. Ripe cherries, silky tannins, vanilla and spice. It would be good with a hearty dish, such as pasta Bolognese or a nice steak.

Poggio al Sole (which means "the sunny hillock) once belonged to the Passignano Abbey but was purchased by a Florentine goldsmith during the 1960s. In May 1990, he sold the estate to a Swiss couple, Johannes and Kathrin Davaz. Johannes learned about wine from working at his parents' vineyard, and his brother took over that vineyard. When they purchased Poggio, there were only 8 hectares of vineyards and they have increased that to 18 hectares, now producing about 80,000 bottles annually. They grow all of their own grapes, and the vineyards are primarily planted with Sangiovese.

The winery produces a Rosé, two Chianti Classicos and 3 Table wines. To me, their wines are mainly produced in a more modern style so though they are good, they are not my preference. But, I was impressed with the 2009 Casasillia Chianti Classico Riserva. "Casasillia" is the former name of the Poggio al Sole estate. It is made from 100% Sangiovese and aged in barriques, 50% new, for about 16-18 months. It had an intriguing aroma and on the palate was a complex melange of dark fruits, smoke, spice and a hint of earthiness. It was elegant, with a lengthy finish, and nice acidity. Strongly recommended.

The Casina Di Cornia winery, established in 1979, consists of only 24 hectares, 7 which have vineyards. They have been certified organic since 1983 and believe in minimal intervention during the wine making process. The 2010 Chianti Classico is made from 100% Sangiovese and is very traditional, with plenty of cherry flavors, hints of violet and an earthy backbone. The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva is also in a traditional style, with more spicy notes and tastes of prunes and blackfruits.

The 2010 Villa Cerna Chianti Classico, another traditional wine, presented intriguing smoke and spice elements while their 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva was very elegant and restrained, with dried cherries, violets, earthiness, and great acidity.

A few more Chianti Classico recommendations include the 2008 Casaloste "Don Vincenzo" Chianti Classico Riserva, the 2008 Castello di Fonterotoli Chianti Classico, and the 2008 San Donatino Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva.

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