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Showing posts with label kentucky. Show all posts
Showing posts with label kentucky. Show all posts

Wednesday, 27 March 2013

Savoring Michter's Original Sour Mash Whiskey:

Posted on 00:00 by Unknown
George Washington, our first President, was a lover of whiskey. His passion for whiskey was so great that by 1798, he became the country's largest distiller, making 11,000 gallons of whiskey at Mount Vernon. During the Revolutionary War, in the frigid winter at Valley Forge, Washington bought Michter's rye whiskey for his men. Michter's would later say they were “the whiskey that warmed the American Revolution.”

The history of Michter’s extends back to the mid-eighteenth century, when John Shenk, a Swiss Mennonite farmer, settled in Pennsylvania. In 1753, he constructed a small distillery to produce rye whiskey and it soon became very popular, including with Washington. Prohibition forced Michter’s to close though it would reopen once repeal arrived. Unfortunately, Michter's faced bankruptcy in 1989 and that could have been the end of its history as its stills and whiskey stocks were sold.

However, in the 1990s, Joseph J. Magliocco and Richard Newman sought to bring back Michter's, to raise it again to his previous glories. One of their major changes was to relocate from Pennsylvania to Kentucky, and they had a new distillery constructed. They eventually brought on Master Distiller Willie Pratt, who has over forty years of distilling experience, to produce Michter's whiskey. The distillery now concentrates on single-barrel rye, single-barrel bourbon, very small batch bourbon, and unblended American whiskey.

During the 1970’s and 1980’s, Michter's most popular product was their Original Sour Mash Whiskey. When bankruptcy struck, production was stopped though it has only recently, in December 2012, been resurrected.  In a process some liken to making sourdough bread, sour mash whiskey uses a portion of previously fermented mash as a starter for a new mash. Commonly, the previously fermented mash constitutes 10-20% of the new mash. This is done to make the fermentation process quicker as well as create a rounder and smoother whiskey. And it does not give it a sour taste in the least.

Michter’s Original Sour Mash also uses a proprietary mashbill made from a special selection of grains. It is aged in charred, new American white oak barrels and produced in small batches. It is bottled at 86 proof and seems priced at $45-$55. I have never previously tasted any of the Michter's products, though have heard very positive reviews from my friend and whiskey writer, Fred Minnick. I received a media sample of their Sour Mash and brought it with me to my local poker game, to share it with several other whiskey lovers. How would it fare?

It fared quite well, with a number of people refilling their glasses on multiple occasions. Though several other whiskeys were available to them, they chose to keep drinking the Michter's Original Sour Mash. I too was impressed with this Sour Mash. Up front, there was an interesting and complex melange of flavors, including vanilla, orange peel, caramel and chocolate notes (reminiscent of a less sweet bourbon) while the finish came with more subtle spice notes, bringing to mind a pleasant rye. Smooth and easy drinking, there was no bite on the finish. I drank it neat though others drank it with ice.

This is a whiskey I would keep in my home bar, and which would impress my whiskey loving guests. It also motivates me to seek out more of Michter's products, from their bourbons to their ryes. I give the Michter's Original Sour Mash whiskey a strong recommendation.
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Posted in cocktails, distillery, kentucky, spirits, whiskey | No comments

Monday, 17 December 2012

2012: Favorite Restaurants

Posted on 00:00 by Unknown
What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

I have already posted several of my drink-related Favorites' lists and and now I want to concentrate on my Favorite Restaurants of the past year. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. You will even find Favorites from outside Massachusetts as I traveled some this past year.

There is also a section later in this post called Consistent Favorites, and it includes a list of a number of restaurants which have been my favorites for subsequent years. Restaurants which are consistently good certainly deserve recognition, and I have tried to note some of those places to which I return again and again. I hope you enjoy all of my recommendations.

Favorite High-End Restaurant: Superb cuisine, an amazing wine list and impeccable service combine to make L'Espalier a Boston treasure. I have dined there before, and always been impressed, and this past year I attended an amazing Barons de Rothschild Champagne lunch and Cheese Tuesday. The restaurant can transform even the simplest of dishes, such as roast chicken, into a wonder. It is well worth the splurge.

Favorite Restaurant Comeback: My last visit to Avila Modern Mediterranean had been a few years ago and my dinner was disappointing. A few others who I spoke to at that time had also reported less than pleasant experiences. However this year, I recently attended a Glenmorangie Scotch dinner at Avila and was surprised at the high quality and creativity of the food. It was an amazing meal with such compelling items like goat cheese croquettes, creamy corn soup, chicken liver ravioli, and braised Waygu beef cheeks. It seems Avila has greatly improved and I will definitely return.

Unfortunate Tragedy to a Favorite Restaurant: Prezza, in the North End, has been one of my favorite high-end Italian spot but this past July the restaurant suffered a kitchen fire. For the last six months, they have been closed as they have conducted extensive repairs and remodeling. This has been a great loss to the community but fortunately it appears the restaurant is set to reopen any day now. When they reopen, please dine there and give them your support. Their food is exceptional and I am sure you will enjoy whatever you order. Good luck to Chef/Owner Anthony Caturano and all his staff.

Favorite Local Food Dinner Series: Numerous Boston area restaurants are emphasizing local ingredients but special kudos must go out to Post 390 for their monthly Farm to Post dinner series. Each month they emphasize a different local purveyor, from farmers to fishermen, and not only use their products but also bring in the purveyors to talk to diners. That helps diners better understand the sources of their food and it also helps immensely that the food is creative and delicious. Check out their Farm to Post dinners.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Old School: Lucia Ristorante, with a second location in Winchester, opened in the North End back in 1977 and recently celebrated its 35th anniversary. It is very much old school yet the food is actually quite tasty. Their chef's skill was quite evident at a fantastic polenta dinner and their anniversary celebration also emphasized their culinary skills. You may not consider Lucia when selecting a North End restaurant, but you should give it some consideration. Their Winchester location also carries excellent pizzas.

Favorite Italian Restaurant Outside the North End: For some of the most creative Italian fare in Boston, you can't go wrong with Erbaluce, Chef Chuck Draghi continues to impress with his unique take on many traditional Italian dishes and the restaurant also has a compelling Italian wine list. How many other restaurants in Boston make fried sunflower heads? His dishes, generally prepared without butters and creams, are often lighter yet still full of flavor. Dine there and check out their ever changing menu or attend one of their compelling events.

Favorite Spanish Restaurant: Chef Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro in Brookline continues to invest great passion into her Spanish cuisine. The restaurant has recently expanded in size, nearly doubling, and have added a bar. They are also adding more Spanish wines to their already expansive wine list, including more Sherries. One of their newest culinary events is Roasted Sucking Pig Tuesdays, which I haven't yet attended but plan to do so soon.    

Favorite Mexican Restaurant: Chef Joe Cassinelli of Pizzeria Posto, one of my favorite Italian spots, opened a second restaurant, The Painted Burro, which offers Mexican cuisine. The food I tasted during my two dinners and brunch there have all impressed, including the Yucatan Meatloaf. I am usually not a meatloaf fan but this opened my eyes to the potential and I cannot recommend it enough. The Burro also has an extensive list of tequilas and mezcals, with plenty of tasty cocktails. A great addition to the local area.

Favorite Suburban Restaurant, Italian: Italian restaurants are ubiquitous in the suburbs, but too many of them are simply average. However, the new A Tavola in Winchester, the second restaurant of Chef Vittorio Ettore (who also owns Bistro 5 in Medford) rises above the masses. Lots of Piattini, small plates, make a great way to start your dinner from their homemade charcuterie to seafood dishes. Then you can move onto their killer pasta, their exceptional risotto, smoky Porchetta and more. It is an intimate restaurant, showcasing the culinary genius of Chef Ettore, and can compete with any Boston restaurant.

Favorite BYOB Restaurant: In the suburbs, you can find a number of BYOB restaurants and one of them is my usual go to spot when I want to bring my own wine or Sake. Kyotoya, in Stoneham, is an inexpensive Japanese restaurant with delicious food, such as superb tempura, and they do not charge a corkage fee. I have dined there numerous times, usually bringing wine or Sake, and those I have introduced to the place have all very much enjoyed it.

Favorite New Hampshire Restaurant: Moxy, situated in Portsmouth, would shine wherever it was located. Chef Matt Louis, with an impressive culinary resume, has created a superb restaurant which emphasizes Spanish inspired tapas, using local ingredients and a New England flair. The food is excellent and the menu concept works well. They also have a good drinks program, from wine to cocktails and including numerous local beers. I would even stop there just for their desserts, such as mini-Whoopie pies. It gets my highest recommendation and I eagerly look forward to my next visit.

Favorite Connecticut Restaurant, Casual: At the Mohegan Sun Casino, there are plenty of restaurants but which one should you select? For amazing fried chicken, in a casual atmosphere, check out Big Bubba's BBQ. The restaurant serves BBQ and southern cuisine and the plates are quite large, stacked high with food. The Finger Lickin Fried Chicken plate included two large chicken breasts and two wings, more than enough chicken to satisfy any craving. It was superb, perfectly cooked, with a nice crispy and well seasoned coating and very moist, tender white meat.

Favorite Connecticut Restaurant, High-End: If you are seeking something more elegant for dinner at the Mohegan Sun, then Bobby Flay's Bar Americain would be a good choice. It has a menu of American favorites, some with a southern flair, as well as plenty of fresh seafood. The food is delicious, well prepared, and worth the high prices. Enjoy their Buttermilk Fried Chicken or Duck with Dirty Wild Rice, Pecans, & Bourbon. I would also highly recommend ordering a side of Hot Potato Chips with Blue Cheese Sauce, a decadent delight with crisp chips and a creamy, tangy sauce.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, Casual: Sometimes you stumble upon a restaurant and end up having a delicious meal. Seeking a quick lunch, I stopped at the Bluegrass Burgers in Louisville, Kentucky, knowing nothing about it beforehand. This burger joint prides itself in serving mostly local ingredients, from their meats to their produce. The Kentucky Grass Fed Bison Burger, topped by local Bleu-Gouda cheese, was an excellent burger, moist with plenty of tasty flavor and the cheese added an intriguing and compelling element. Their sweet potato fries were also addictive, with a bright sweet potato flavor and a crisp exterior. I wish we had a burger place like this in the Boston area.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, Mid-Range: Another restaurant dedicated to local ingredients, Harvest has huge portraits of the farmers they use on their walls. The food, from the Buttermilk Fried Chicken to Crispy Pork Confit, is tasty and reasonably priced. And for dessert, their Bourbon Bread Pudding was amazing, one of the best bread puddings I have tasted. It has a casual ambiance, a good wine list and service was excellent. A great choice in Louisville, Kentucky.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, High-End: After attending the Kentucky Derby, a group of us went to Corbett's for a special post-Derby prix-fixe menu. From a Smoked Salmon Parfait to a Creekstone Tenderloin, the food was exquisite, with killer wine pairings and superb service in an intimate dining area. The cuisine could compete with any high-end restaurant in Boston.

Favorite Nova Scotia Bakery: While visiting Dartmouth, my hotel was just around the corner from the Two If By Sea Cafe, where I had heard they made exceptional croissants. I found that was not an understatement. They are heavier than the usual croissant, containing far more layers, and probably weigh at least twice as much than the usual croissant. Yet they remain flaky and soft throughout the croissant, each bite a pure delight. Their prosciutto & cheese was my favorite, the prosciutto adding a salty flair to the croissant and some of the ham that stuck out the ends was satisfyingly crispy. This is one of the best croissants I have ever tasted, putting to shame so many meager ham & cheese croissants. Highly recommended.

Favorite Nova Scotia Restaurant: In Halifax, Chives Canadian Bistro offers a menu based on seasonal produce from local farmers, artisan cheese and meat producers, and sustainable seafood. The cuisine offers contemporary Canadian bistro dishes rooted in European culinary history. It is an intimate place, with cool decor, and the food and wine impressed. General Tao's Bacon, New Orleans Po' Boy Sandwich, Lobster Tagliatelle and more. The chef has won numerous awards and they are well deserved.

Favorite Carnivore Dinner: It is no secret that I love meat. When I traveled to Tuscany, I had a dinner that would have satiated even the most demanding carnivore. At the Officina della Bistecca, famed butcher Dario Cecchini offers an incredible prix fixe meal, which includes five courses of beef. All of the meat was superb, especially the beef tartare, which melted in my mouth. Cecchini uses high quality beef, simply prepared, and the flavor fills your mouth with joy. Seated at communal tables, dinner is more of an experience than simply a meal. My highest recommendation.

Favorite Dessert: At the Red Lantern in Boston, their Pineapple Bread Pudding, with coconut ice cream, was superb, a perfect blend of tropical flavors. The bread pudding had a nice firm, but soft, texture and it was bursting with fresh pineapple flavors. I really think an enterprising baker should open a bread pudding dessert shop, offering a variety of different bread puddings. Forget cup cakes, let us see more bread puddings.

Consistent Favorites

Favorite Brunch, Traditional Fare: For a third year, the winner is AKA Bistro in Lincoln.

Brunch, Traditional Fare-Honorable Mention: For a third year, my choice is Tupelo in Inman Square.

Favorite Brunch, Non-Traditional Fare: For the fourth year in a row, the winner is Myers & Chang in the South End.

Favorite Suburban Restaurant: For the third year in a row, the winner is AKA Bistro in Lincoln.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: For a third year, the winner is Oishii in the South End.

Favorite Chinatown Restaurant:
For a third year, the winner is Gourmet Dumpling House.

Favorite Somerville Restaurant: Last year, Bergamot was my Overall Favorite Restaurant and it continues to be worthy of kudos. I haven't been there as much this past year but need to remedy that in the new year. My highest recommendation.

Favorite Underappreciated Restaurant: For the third year, the winner is T.W. Food in Cambridge.

Favorite Asian Buffet: For a fourth year, the winner is Taipei Tokyo Cafe in Woburn.

Favorite North End Restaurant, High End: For a third year, the winnner is Prezza.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Moderate: For a third year, the winner is Nebo.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Fusion: For a third year, the winner is Taranta.

Favorite Italian Restaurant, Somerville: For a third year, the winner is Pizzeria Posto.

Favorite Suburban Steak House: For a fourth year, the winner is Beacon Grille in Woburn. 
Favorite Fried Seafood: For a third year, the winner is the Clam Box in Ipswich.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?
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Posted in 2012, Bakery, butcher, Connecticut, italian cuisine, Italy, kentucky, meat, New Hampshire, nova scotia, Restaurant, restaurant reviews, top ten | No comments

Friday, 12 October 2012

Boston Cocktail Summit: Spirit Recommendations

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
You can't have a conference dedicated to spirits and cocktails unless you provide plenty to taste and drink. At the Boston Cocktail Summit, they certainly provided ample opportunity for tasting and drinking, from some of the seminars to the evening parties. In addition, there was a Craft & Fine Spirits Showcase, separated into a Grand Tasting Room and a Craft Distiller's Hall, where a myriad of spirits and cocktails were presented for sampling.

I spent several hours on Saturday sampling in these two rooms, generally passing on those spirits I already knew, seeking out the different, interesting, unique and unusual. Tasting so many spirits is not an easy task, as even if you spit, you still absorb some of the alcohol. It is more difficult than wine tasting due to the much higher alcohol content of the spirits. Fortunately, both rooms had some snacks to help cleanse your palate and absorb some of the alcohol. Plus, taking a lunch break, a burger and tater tots, helped keep me going for  more tasting in the afternoon.

This is a great time in the spirits world, and there has never been a greater number and diversity of artisan and high-end spirits available. No matter what your preference, you can find plenty to please your palate. And if you are adventurous, you will find much to satisfy you, much to delight and tantalize you. I am going to highlight some of the alcohols which most impressed and excited me, those which intrigued me because of their uniqueness and fine taste. I may follow up on some of these spirits in the future, to gain more information about their creation, and if so, I will report back.


Let me start with some local spirits. I previously toured Turkey Shore Distilleries, sampling three of their rums. At the Summit, they presented their newest offering, which had only been bottled less than a week before. The Old Ipswich Golden Marsh Spiced Rum, a limited edition, is basically a blend of 80% of their White Cap rum and 20% of their Tavern Style Amber with the addition of ten different spices. Master Distiller Evan Parker says, "With the cooler weather, we created a flavor profile that is perfect for those crisp days out and about or for those cold nights by the fire."

The rum presents a bright, golden yellow color and a spicy aroma, which will bring to mind autumn and cool weather. It has a smooth taste, with delicious fall spice notes and hints of orange peel. This is definitely a rum to enjoy now, either on its own or in a cocktail. Evan states, "For a simple, tasty cocktail, you can pair Golden Marsh Spiced Rum with ginger beer or hot cider." I could easily see this rum added to some hot cider.

They also had an intriguing cocktail to taste, which was made from the Golden Marsh Spiced rum, caramel, butterscotch liqueur, and spiced apple cider, topped with a Pumpkin Munchkin. The rum complemented this drink very much and I think apple cider is a great pairing. The guys from Turkey Shore, Mat Perry and Evan Parker have created another winner.

Grand Ten Distilling is another local distillery, located in South Boston, and Luke O'Neil has just written an interesting article in The Phoenix about this distillery. For background on the distillery, you should check out his article though it only discusses their Wire Works Gin (which I did not taste). I tasted three of their other products and found all three to be interesting.

The Amandine Barrel Aged Almond Liqueur spends about 6 months in 30 gallon American oak barrels. They use 30 gallon barrels as it is easier for two people to move them around rather than the usual 53 gallon barrels. The barrels are toasted, not charred, as they do not want the barrels to filter out any of the taste. All the color of liqueur is due to the barrels. The liqueur had a pleasant almond taste, not too sweet, and would make a fine addition to a cocktail. The Angelica Botanical Liqueur is made with angelica root, cinnamon, orange peel and cloves. It too is not sweet, but is aromatic and floral with a fresh, clean taste and slight hints of spice. Another liqueur that would add interesting flavors and aromas to a cocktail. The Fire Puncher Fire Vodka has a hickory smoked and pepper flavor, and I found the peppery notes to be far more prominent than the mild smokiness. It is farily easy drinking and would be great in a Bloody Mary.

Another local company, in Somerville, is Infusion Diabolique which is a collaboration between Executive Chef Robert Fathman and Brandon Bach, both who worked at Azure. They produce infused alcohols and at the Summit showcased two of them, their bourbon and tequila, though it appears they also make an infused rum. They are all infused with natural fruits, herbs and spices.

The Infusion Diabolioque Kentucky uses a four year old bourbon and infuses it with dried organic Black Mission figs, Madagascar & Tahitian vanilla, cinnamon, star anise, black currants, cloves, and allspice. It smells like typical bourbon with subtle spicy notes and on the palate, the bourbon flavor is enhanced by subtle fruit flavors with a pleasant melange of spices. It was smooth and easy drinking, and would satisfy you on its own, though it would do well in a cocktail too. The Infusion Diabolioque Mixto is a silver tequila infused with sweet pineapple, Persian limes, cardamon, and mint. Up front, the usual tequila flavors are most prominent, but it then transforms into a more complex blend with some tropical fruit accents and subtle mint. The finish is smooth and long, with hints of lime. Again, it would work well on its own or in a cocktail.

Dunc's Mill is the oldest continuously operating distillery in Vermont. The founder, Duncan Holaday, previously created Vermont Spirits but now has moved on to creating local rum. He currently produces two rums, both which are made from Fair Trade, organic sugar cane and Vermont flavors. The Elderflower Flavored Rum is created with Vermont elderflower blossoms and Austrian elder essence, which is infused into a light rum. I was impressed with this rum, which possessed a delightful floral aroma, and on the palate was smooth, clean and dry with a prominent, but not overwhelming, taste of elderflower. It was a well balanced spirit which reminded me somewhat of a dry version of St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur. I am not a huge fan of maple flavor but their Maple Flavored Rum, made from Vermont maple syrup, was pleasant. It was dry and possessed a milder maple profile, once again also smooth and clean. Another well balanced spirit, you should check out both these rums.

In 2006, the Consejo Regulador Del Tequila (CRT), the ruling tequila body in Mexico, added a couple new tequila categories: Extra Anejo and Infused Blanco Tequila. Tanteo has taken advantage ot the later of the two categories and currently produces three Infused 100% De Agave Tequilas ($36-$40). Their inspiration was the fruit cups, topped with chiles, they found in Mexico. Their blanco tequilas, Jalapeno, Cocoa and Tropical, are infused with natural ingredients, such as organic jalapenos.

Their Jalapeno was my favorite of the three, and it is produced by infusing organic jalapenos, hand-sliced, which are mixed in a 10,000 gallon tank with the tequila. On the nose, there is some grassy notes as well as the typical agave, and on the palate, the tequila flavor was very prominent up front. On the finish, rather than the usual tequila bite, you ended up with a spicy and delicious jalapeno burn. It was not overly spicy, but very noticeable and I loved that heat. I could easily enjoy this on its own though it would make great cocktails as well.

The Cocoa is made with roasted, malted and raw cocoa, like a traditional mole, and has a little jalapeno added as well. It presented a strong cocoa flavor atop the tequila notes, a strange combo that actually worked, and certainly was intriguing, though not my personal preference for a spirit. Yet I could see it working well in the right cocktail. The only issue is that I didn't get much of a jalapeno kick to this tequila. The Tropical is infused with pineapple, mango, and guanabana, also known as soursop, and there was a little jalapeno added too. The tropical fruits added subtle flavors, enhancing the tequila, though again the jalapeno wasn't really assertive. I could see this tequila working well in a tropical cocktail.

The Macchu Pisco La Diablada is intended to be a high-end Peruvian Pisco and is currently not available in the U.S. but that will hopefully change soon. They only make 1000 bottles so even when it becomes available, it will be in very limited supply. La Diablada is a blend of 3 Pisco grapes: Quebranta, Moscatel and Italia. It is rested, not aged, for about 18 months and sees no oak. It is very aromatic with a smooth taste of herbs and fruit, with some underlying spiciness. A complex taste with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Though many know of the Pisco Sour, this is a Pisco that you might want to enjoy on its own, rather than as the base for a cocktail.

I love a good bourbon and the Rock Hill Farms Bourbon, produced at Buffalo Trace, really excited my palate. It is a single barrel, Kentucky Straight bourbon that is 100 proof, though you probably won't notice the alcohol is that high. It is an excellent sipping bourbon, smooth, complex and absolutely delicious with nice vanilla notes and intriguing spicy elements on the finish. This is definitely a bourbon I will add to my home bar.

Brendan Edwards of Third Wave Brands, a supplier of spirits and wines, presented several different brands (including Montanya Distillers, Delirio de Oaxaca, and Cariel Vodka) and I found them compelling.

Montanya Distillers, owned by Karen & Brice Hoskin, was founded in 2008 and is now located in Crested Butte, Colorado. which is is the West Elk Mountain range of southwest Colorado. They currently produce two rums, the Platino Light Rum and Oro Dark Rum. The rums are all natural, each made with only four ingredients, including water, sugar cane, yeast and honey. The water comes from Colorado mountain springs while the sugar cane is from Maui, Hawaii. At the time of bottling, a tiny bit of Colorado mountain honey is added to the rum.

The Oro is aged in a fresh, American oak whiskey barrel that previously held Stranahan's Colorado Whiskey. The Oro was a fine sipping rum, with a pleasant blend of flavors, including vanilla, honey, caramel, and mocha hints. I really enjoyed it and would drink it both straight or in a cocktail. The Platino is aged in a barrel that once aged Oro, so the barrel has far less effect on the rum. The Platino is also filtered and I found it to be very aromatic, a lighter rum with vanilla and herbal notes. For me, it would be best used in a cocktail.

Delirio de Oaxaca is a traditional palenque in Matatlan, Oaxaca, producing Mezcal by Master Distiller Fernando Santibanez. The Mezcal Joven is double distilled in copper alembics from 100% Agave Espadin and only 10,000 bottles were produced. It had an intriguing smoky nose with a prominent taste of agave fruit and a mild smokiness. Quite tasty and I could drink it on its own or in a cocktail. The Mezcal Reposado has been aged for about 4 months in lightly toasted American oak and only 5000 bottles were produced. It had a lighter nose of smoke, and on the palate it was softer and more subtle, with the same delicious fruit flavors and hints of smoke. Again, another winner.

Cariel Vodka was created by Master Blender Peter Carlson in Sweden, who desired to create a vodka with natural flavor and the product just came on the U.S. market in July. It is produced from Swedish winter wheat and barley, as well as glacial water from Lake Vattern. I found the vodka to have an almost subtle sweetness to the aroma, with an intriguing and smooth taste, elements of herbs, grain, and subtle peach flavors. It is definitely not a tasteless vodka but rather presents an enticing melange of subtle tastes. I was impressed. They also produce a Vanilla Vodka, made with the addition of vanilla from Southern India and Madagascar. It had a big, bold vanilla aroma and flavor, yet it remains only mildly sweet, not cloying like many other flavored vodkas. I can see this working well in the right cocktail.

Koval Distillery, founded in 2008, was the first craft distillery in Chicago since Prohibition. The founders, Robert and Sonat Birnecker, gave up their academic careers to create the distillery. Using custom-made Kothe potsills, they produce organic and kosher liqueurs and whiskey. The whiskey is made in small batches from 100% Midwest organic grain from Midwest and aged in 30 gallon organic oak from a Minnesota cooperage.

My favorite of the three I tasted was the Lion's Pride Dark Rye, made from 100% Rye. It presented nice vanilla and bold spice flavors with hints of citrus. A nice sipping whiskey. The Lion's Pride Dark Millet had a more earthy flavor with vanilla accents. The Lion's Pride 47th Ward is made from a mash bill of rye, wheat, oat and malted barley, and is aged in heavily charred oak. Each grain is distilled separately. This is a complex and spicy whiskey, but at 94 proof, you probably need to add a little water to mute some of the alcoholic heat.


In general, I am not much of a Gin guy because I find too many gins with a strong juniper taste. But, I have found myself enjoying much more the ancestor to gin, Genever, which is made with numerous botanicals and where any juniper flavor is far more subtle. Veronique Beittel is the owner of Flemish Lion, an importing company, based in Vermont, of Belgium Genever. She even has an informative website of information about Genever. At the Summit, she was showcasing two Genevers from Diep9.

The Diep Young Genever is distilled using 19th century techniques, hand crafted in a traditional copper pot at De Moor, Belgium's smallest family owned distillery. It is produced with a combination of rye, wheat, malted barley, and nine botanicals. Those botanicals include juniper berries, sweet orange peel, blessed thistle, carob, nutmeg, guinea pepper, angelica root, cinnamon and coriander. I liked the herbal blend on this spirit, which was relatively smooth and easy drinking. I think the key was the balance of the botanicals, that none of them seemed to overpower the others. The Diep9 Old Genever is distilled using 16th century techniques and is barrel aged for two years in French oak. It is also packaged in an old style clay bottle. Though it too has a balanced, herbal taste there is also a deeper, earthier element, which really intrigued me. Try these Genevers and let them open your eyes to the possibilities.

Palm Bay International is a distributor of wines and spirits and they showcased several of their products at the Summit, from mezcal to whiskey.

Los Amantes, which translates as "the lovers" and is inspired by an ancient Aztec legend, produces Mezcal  made of 100% agave from Oaxaca. Only a small supply of this traditionally produced spirit is available in the U.S. The Joven has about 2 months of barrel aging and the nose had a mild smokiness with a bit of brininess as well. On the palate, it was smokier, with strong fruit flavors and a nice smoothness to the finish. Delicious and easy drinking. The Reposado has been aged for about 6 months in American oak and its taste was superb, a complex melange of flavors, smokiness and subtle accents of fruit. An excellent sipping spirit, it is highly recommended.

The Bastille 1789 is a French blended whisky hand-crafted in the Cognac region and produced from barley and wheat grown in northeast France. Their water derives from the Gensac Spring and it is naturally filtered through limestone. It has been finished in French Limousin oak casks. It was an intriguing whiskey, with a complex blend of flavors, with orange notes, dried fruits, honey and Christmas spices. There was a mild earthy backbone, and it was smooth and easy drinking with a satisfying finish.

The Irishman, founded in 1999 by Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, produce a line of Irish whiskey based products. The Original Clan is a pot still blend of 70% single malt and 30% pure pot still. It was triple distilled and matured in bourbon casks. This was produced in a pre-Prohibition style and is said be be a "gateway" Irish whiskey. This is a delightful sipping whiskey, with delicious flavors of caramel, honey, vanilla and butterscotch as well as slight undertones of pepper and spice. It goes down so easy and lingers in your mouth for a long time. I can understand why so many people will enjoy this whiskey.

The Single Malt is produced from 100% malted barley, was triple distilled and then matured in first-fill bourbon and sherry oak casks. Only 1000 cases of this whiskey were made. This is a more serious whiskey, being complex, subtle and intriguing. There is less sweetness than the Original Clan and a bit more spice, and the finish is even longer and more pleasing. This is definitely a whiskey to slowly sip and savor, and will appeal to whiskey aficionados.

The Superior Irish Cream is a blend of real Irish cream and 100% Irish whiskey, with added hints of vanilla and toffee. All of the ingredients are natural and it does not contain any thickening agents or artificial ingredients. It is based on an old family recipe and was a satisfying pleasure. There is a thick, creaminess to the drink and the whiskey flavors are not hidden in the least. It does not taste artificial in any way, and with winter approaching, you might want to stock up on a couple bottles for those chilly evenings. Add a bit to your coffee or tea, or just drink it on its own.
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Posted in Boston, bourbon, cocktails, colorado, conference, distillery, gin, ipswich, kentucky, liqueur, Massachusetts, mezcal, pisco, rum, Somerville, spirits, tequila, vermont, vodka, whiskey | No comments

Friday, 8 June 2012

Jefferson's Bourbon: The Art of Blending

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
After visiting two bourbon distilleries, I met with the founder of another bourbon company, but one which does not distill any of its own bourbon. Instead, they engage in the art of blending, producing intriguing small batch bourbons.

While having lunch at Proof on Main with my good friend Fred Minnick, we were joined by Trey Zoeller, the founder of Jefferson's Bourbon, and his father, Chet Zoeller, the author of Bourbon in Kentucky: A History Of Distilleries in Kentucky. It was an informal meeting but the subject of bourbon dominated our discussion. Both Trey and Chet were very personable, and it was a very pleasant and informative lunch. I still though would have liked to spend even more time with them, discussing bourbon and their company.

Trey's family roots in alcohol production extend back at least eight generations, to his great, great, etc. grandmother, Martha McLain, who was a moonshiner. Unfortunately for her, she ran afoul of the law. Around 1799, Martha was arrested for selling liquor without a proper license, which she was doing only to support her six children.

(Trey on the left, Fred Minnick in the middle, and Chet on the right)

Trey began blending bourbon back in 1997 and launched his own line in April 1998. He purchases all of his bourbon from other distilleries, often small unique lots which larger distilleries don't find profitable enough to disseminate. He generally blends about 3-4 different bourbon recipes, from 8-12 barrels, to create the three different Jefferson's Bourbons. These are all small batch bourbons, and the blending is truly an art, trying to create an interesting and complex product that all possesses excellent taste. Trey feels this is a "different style" of bourbon which may not be for everyone, but one which makes him proud.

Obtaining sufficient supply is always a challenge, especially as he seeks out quality. And one of their biggest challenges is competing with the larger bourbon producers, though Trey is very happy that their company has been growing by about 30% each year. They produce about 25,000 six-bottle cases annually. Their bourbon originally caught on with local bartenders, and they spread the word to others about it. Currently, Jefferson's Bourbon sells well in the Boston area so my local readers should be able to find it at the better liquor stores.

I was fascinated by Trey's tale of an experiment they recently conducted in ocean-aged bourbon! Trey celebrated his 40th birthday on a friend's ship in Costa Rica. The friend also has a small dishing boat and Trey got the idea to store five barrels of bourbon on his friend's boat while it traveled the sea. The barrels were strapped to the boat and spent 3.5 years at sea, baking in the heat as well as moving around frequently. Allegedly, the ship lost two barrels when their steel bands popped, though there is always the possibility that the men aboard the boat decided to taste test the bourbon themselves.

When Trey examined the bourbon, it found that it had caramelized and had an extremely dark color, looking almost black in a photo. Trey stated that it had a briny taste and was very complex for its age. He is planning to release some of it commercially so it will be quite intriguing to get a chance to taste the final product. Based on this experiment, Trey is next going to transport some bourbon barrels down the Ohio River, as old distilleries once did.

When you look at a bottle of Jefferson's Bourbon, what do you see? Look just at the bottle, its shape and form, not the liquid inside. Does it appear familiar? Trey's intent was to create a bottle that would resemble a  perfume bottle so that it would appeal to women! A very interesting marketing device.

Jefferson's Bourbon has three main products: Jefferson's, Jefferson's Reserve and Jefferson's Presidential Select. All three are probably best when drank neat or on the rocks, though of course you could use them in a cocktail if you so desired. They also produce a Straight Rye Whiskey which works very well in cocktails.

I greatly enjoyed the Jefferson’s Reserve, which I found to be smooth, elegant, subtle, and complex with a compelling melange of flavors. Each sip will bring to mind a new flavor, from caramel to honey, from butterscotch to figs, and much more. This is definitely a bourbon to savor on its own, rather than lose any of its complexity in a cocktail. Trey has created a superb bourbon which you need to seek out.

It was a pleasure to chat with Trey and Chet, and I wish them much luck with Jefferson's Bourbon. They are blending an exciting product, worthy of your attention, and I look forward to what they will develop in the future.
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Wednesday, 6 June 2012

Buffalo Trace Distillery: A Taste of History

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
“How well I remember my first encounter with The Devil's Brew. I happened to stumble across a case of bourbon -- and went right on stumbling for several days thereafter.”
--W.C. Fields

Van Winkle, Elmer T. Lee, Blanton's, Eagle Rare and more. These are all excellent bourbons that happen to be produced by the same distillery, Buffalo Trace. So when deciding on which distilleries to visit while I was in Kentucky, Buffalo Trace was at one of those at the top of my list. The distillery runs several different types of tours, from spooky ghost tours to the more architectural driven post-Prohibition tours, and I ended up taking their hard hat tour, which is more of a behind the scenes look at the distillery.

The Buffalo Trace Distillery sprawls across approximately 119 acres, with about 114 buildings. As soon as I stepped upon the premises, I was struck by the strong smell that permeated the air around the distillery. It was a dominant yeasty smell, actually a pleasant aroma, almost like a massive bakery was on the premises. I later learned it was from grains which were being dried. They dry out old mash and then sell it to farmers as "distiller's grain," which often ends up being fed to animals.

The land upon which the distillery lays once had many paths, called traces, for great herds of buffalo. One such path was known as the Great Buffalo Trace and led to the nearby Kentucky River. This was the origin of the distillery's current name, an homage to the history of this region. The first settlers were established in this area around 1775 and within 25 years there would be a thriving community.

The first known distillery in this area was established in 1787, so a distillery has been at this location for about 225 years. It would not be until 1857 that the first modern distillery was constructed here, and it used steam power, a significant technological advance at the time. It was later purchased by Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr., a famous historic figure in the bourbon world, who continued to add innovations to the distillery.

During Prohibition, the distillery was extremely fortunate to obtain one of only four legal permits, allowing them to continue to distill alcohol, yet only for medicinal purposes. Distilleries which lacked such a permit had to send their barrels to the distilleries that did possess them. Doctors could prescribe a person a pint of bourbon every ten days and this led to more than 6 million prescriptions in Kentucky alone. Sure seems like Prohibition caused many, many people to be ill and require some medicinal alcohol. Or at least it caused many people to claim to be ill.

After the repeal of Prohibition, Albert Blanton took over the operation of the distillery, continuing to improve its production, and he is commemorated with a statue on the distillery grounds. In 1992, the distillery was purchased by the Sazerac Company, and in 1999 they renamed it Buffalo Trace, also starting to produce Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey.

The current Master Distiller is Harlen Davis Wheatley, who has occupied that position since 2005, though he has worked for the distillery since 1995. Buffalo Trace now produces 14 different brands, including Van Winkle, Old Charter, W.L. Weller, Elmer T. Lee, Rock Hill Farms, Benchmark, Eagle Rare, Blanton's. Hancock's Reserve and Ancient Age. These bourbons are generally aged from 4-23 years.

Our hard hat tour was led by Fred, who did a great job explaining about the distillery, from its history to the details of the distillation process. The distillery was still operating during my visit, and they would not stop distilling until June, restarting operations after Labor Day. About 350 permanent employees work at the distillery, which generally is operational each day from 6am-10pm.

Buffalo Trace uses distillers grade corn from Kentucky and Indiana, and does not use any GMO corn. Their basic mashbill has 70%-80% corn, and of their fourteen brands, 12 are rye dominant while the other two are wheat dominant. The same mashbill can lead to different tasting bourbons, such as Buffalo Trace and Eagle Rare which both are small batch that use the same mashbill. Blanton's, which is 6-7 years old, and Elmer T. Lee, which is 10 years old, are both single barrel, using the same mashbill.

This cleverly designed mural is on the outside of one of the buildings, and it is interesting as it appears to move with you as you walk by it.

They have three stills, two of which are four stories high and located in the same building.

One of their buildings, three stories high, contains 10 large fermentation vats and they can ferment about 180,000 gallons per day.

Most of their equipment is geared to large scale production, thousands of gallons at a time. This allows them to produce sufficient product for 14 different brands.

They buy their yeast from Fermentis, based on their own formula, and they use that same yeast for all of their brands. They keep some of their yeast strain in five separate places so that it will never be lost.

We walked through the mash fermenter room, seeing lots of large tanks containing the mash, the bubbles in the mash caused by carbon dioxide. There is a "No Swimming" warning here, which could actually be a hazardous activity. They allowed us to taste some of the mash, which generally was very sweet.

I find it fascinating that Buffalo Trace has a special experimental program, where they produce small batches of bourbon, trying to alter all sorts of aspects of the production, testing various factors. The program began in 1989 and have tested items such as aging bourbon in fine grain, coarse grain, double barrels, with oak chips, French oak, and finished in barrels that once held Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Cabernet Franc. There are about 1000 barrels of bourbon currently in the program and some will eventually get released in the Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection label. Twenty products have so far been released under this label.

Since 2007, their experiments have been produced in a special micro-distillery, pictured above. This is a combination pot still/column still and can produce 1-10 barrels of bourbon, as opposed to previously when they had to make a minimum batch of 70 barrels. This allows them to conduct more experiments, and it is much more cost effective than producing the far larger amount. Innovation and experimentation are very important so Buffalo Trace deserves kudos for their program.

The distillery owns 12 warehouses, where approximately 320,000 barrels of bourbon are aging. We spent some time in Warehouse "C," which was originally constructed by Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. in 1881. It holds about 24,000 barrels, separated by recipe and not brand, and the floorboards are still original. The walls are separated from the ricks so if the wall happens to collapse for any reason, the barrels will be fine. This has been beneficial when a terrible storm damaged the warehouse, yet the ricks remained secure.

Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. once produced a bourbon named "Old Taylor" and in November 2009, Buffalo Trace decided to replicate this historical bourbon. They used the original recipe and it is currently aging in one of their warehouses. There is not a planned release date yet, as they will conduct periodic taste tests to determine when it is ready for release.

After the tour, we finished with a tasting of four of their products. First, was the Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, which is about 8-9 years old and 90 proof. I found it to be smooth, with plenty of spice notes, vanilla, mild caramel and hints of sweetness. Good for drinking on its own, or mixed in a cocktail. And at around $25, it is a good value too.

The Eagle Rare Single Barrel is about 10 years old and 90 proof. It was also silky smooth but spicier than the Buffalo Trace. Its flavors were more complex, a melange of caramel, almonds, honey, vanilla, and dried fruits. A lengthy and pleasing finish really satisfied my palate. It costs around $30 and it too is a very good value. This is definitely a bourbon I would prefer drinking neat, though it can enhance a cocktail as well.

One of the surprises of the tasting was the Buffalo Trace Bourbon Cream Liqueur. It resembles Bailey's Irish Cream, but I much prefer the Buffalo Trace. It is made with real cream and has a rich, creamy and sweet taste, just pure hedonistic pleasure. I even tried some mixed with some root beer, which was kind of like a float without the ice cream. Unfortunately, it is currently not sold outside of Kentucky, though I did buy a couple bottles while I was there.

A bourbon distillery making vodka? Yes, that seemed strange to me as well but Buffalo Trace seemed to think it worked well together. Their Rain Vodka is certified organic and is produced from 100% organic white corn. The use of corn does provide a link to their bourbon. They have a dedicated vodka still and this vodka is distilled seven times. It actually had an interesting taste, with a bit of sweetness, and was fairly smooth, enough that you probably could drink this alone on ice. I was not expecting it to taste as good as it did, and it is worthy of a recommendation.

They are working on another vodka, which they will name HDW CLIX. The HDW are the initials of their Master Distiller, Harlen Davis Wheatley. The CLIX is the Roman numeral for 159, which will be the number of times that the vodka is distilled. That is an incredible amount of distillations though I am not sure that many is really necessary or will accomplish anything. At some point, multiple distillations probably won't produce any noticeable changes. But I am intrigued to see the final product.

Buffalo Trace Distillery is a fascinating place and if you are in the area then you definitely should take one of their tours. The distillery has a firm foot in its historical past yet its other foot is firmly in the future, devoted to innovation and experimentation. They produce plenty of excellent bourbons and you should explore the various brands that they make, enjoying the diversity of flavor profiles.
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Tuesday, 5 June 2012

Four Roses Bourbon: A Unique Distillery

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
"Four Roses straight up, water on the side."
--Detective James "Popeye" Doyle (played by Gene Hackman) in French Connection II 

After long days of exploring the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, our group often met for a final drink at the hotel bar, to unwind a bit before heading off to bed. My drink of choice was Four Roses Bourbon, one of the roughly 6 or 7 bourbons they carried. In Europe and Japan, Four Roses is extremely popular, and has been for years, but it is still very much under the radar in the U.S. That should change with time, once people realize its quality and uniqueness.

Back in August 2011, I met the Four Roses Master Distiller, Jim Rutledge, at a local media event. He was personable and quite knowledgeable, and his bourbons were quite compelling. My previous article, Four Roses Bourbon: Back In The U.S.A., discussed the history of the distillery as well as providing plenty of additional information about bourbon and tasting notes on the three primary products of Four Roses. You might want to read that article first, for background details, before proceeding with the rest of this post.

When planning my visit to Louisville for the Kentucky Derby, I knew that I had to visit a couple of nearby bourbon distilleries and Four Roses was one of the places at the top of my list. They run frequent public tours and there were five other people on the tour I attended. It began with an interesting fifteen minute video about the distillery and bourbon, though I caught one error. The video stated a couple times that "white oak" barrels must be used to age bourbon though according to the law, any type of "new oak," and not just "white," is permissible.

After the video, our guide, Don, led us through a tour of the distillery. Distillation operations had been shut down for the summer, giving them time to perform maintenance. Thus we didn't get the chance to view any work in progress. It is common practice for bourbon distilleries to close during the summer as the heat gets too intense for work. For Four Roses, the water table from the nearby river also decreases, making it more difficult to operate. Four Roses though closes earlier in the season than many other distilleries.

The architecture of many of the buildings is an aesthetically pleasing Spanish style. Back in 1910, when the buildings were constructed, the owners also had holdings in Southern California and they liked the Spanish style buildings found in that region. Thus, they decided to emulate that style in Kentucky and in 1987 the buildings were placed onto the National Register of Historic Places.

Yes, they even grow roses on the grounds.

In the picture above, there is a multi-story building visible in the background on the left side of the photo. That is one of the former Four Roses' rack houses, where bourbon barrels were stored, but that is no longer the case. Instead, other distilleries use those rack houses for their barrel storage. At a different location, Four Roses has about 20 warehouses, each on an acre of land, and there are approximately 24,000 barrels in each warehouse. At any one time, the distillery has about 300,000-350,000 barrels aging in these rack houses.

So why did Four Roses stop using the older rack houses? They decided that they wanted to age their bourbon barrels in single-story warehouses, to allow for more even aging throughout the rack house. In multi-story buildings, the barrels on different levels will age at different rates as the higher levels get hotter than the lower ones. To avoid this, some distilleries will rotate their barrels though that is laborious and time consuming. Blending can also compensate for the discrepancies in aging. Four Roses though avoids worrying about this as their barrels generally age consistently together.

Four Roses mills all of their own grains, bringing in whole kernel corn, and they seek corn which swells just right for their purposes. They use two different mashbills, grain recipes, including the OE (which is 75% corn, 20% rye, and 5% malted barley) and the OB (which is 60% corn, 35% rye and 5% malted barley).  These recipe are at least 40 years old, and the rye is intended to add richness and spiciness to the blend.

Besides the two mashbills, they also use five different, proprietary yeasts, thus making 10 different recipes. They are probably the only distillery using more than one yeast, and acquired four of those yeasts once Seagram shut down business. The five yeasts include: V=delicate fruitiness, a classic bourbon profile; K=slightly spicy, slow aging, also a classic bourbon profile; O=rich fruitiness, red fruits; Q=floral essence, delicate, aromatic; and F=herbal, minty, little floral. So each combination of mashbill and yeast will lead to a different flavor profile, providing a wider range of flavor profiles than many other distilleries can create. They sometimes even combine a couple of yeasts for another flavor profile.

The distillery is highly automated and it only takes about five men to operate. Once a batch of bourbon is completed here, it will then be transported to one of the rack houses.


The facility has 23 fermenters, 16 made of Red Cyprus and 7 stainless steel. Red Cyprus is now a protected tree so they cannot produce any more cyprus fermenters. It is a flavor neutral wood so it does not affect the taste of the bourbon at all.



Four Roses produces three main brands in the U.S., including Yellow Label, Small Batch and Single Barrel. Check my previous post for some tasting notes on these bourbons. In addition, they produce some limited edition bourbons each year.

Besides the U.S. brands, Four Roses also produces two which are unique to the Japan market, the Black and Platinum. Japan has always been a huge market for Four Roses and these two bourbons were created specifically in that market during the 1990s. When Kirin purchased Four Roses, it was decided to continue to make these two bourbons only available in Japan. There is always the possibility that could change in the future, and I sincerely hope it does.

I was fortunate to get to taste the Black and Platinum (pictured above). Both bourbons use a combination of the two mashbills and the Black uses the K yeast while the Platinum uses the K and V yeasts. Both bourbons were silky smooth and absolutely compelling, with the Black presenting more of a spicy and complex profile while the Platinum was more floral, though still with plenty of spice notes. These were perfect sipping bourbons, delicious on their own without the need to be in a cocktail. They taste differently from the three U.S. brands, though you still can detect a thread of similarity. The Japanese are lucky to have these two excellent bourbons available.

Four Roses produces plenty of exciting products so you should expand your bourbon horizons and try some of their bourbons. You won't be disappointed.
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