Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Boston Chops, the new steakhouse in the South End, is debuting a new Brunch menu, held every  Saturday and Sunday, from 10am-3pm, including some elements of their Rarely Celebrated beef cuts. Their food menu is divided into the following sections: Raw, their full raw menu is available for brunch; Tossed, with three salads not available on the dinner menu, including Lobster Cobb Salad (grilled avocado along with the lettuces, ½ a lobster, sharp cheddar, egg and grilled bacon, $24). The Unnamed section of the menu features items such as Huevos Rancheros, with machaca beef cheeks, black beans, grilled avocado, and a tortilla ($14); Brisket Shank & Grilled Tongue "Hash" with a 2hr egg, frites, cheese curds and gravy ($14); Giannone Fried Chicken with biscuits, sawmill gravy, sausage, and pepper jelly ($19), Brunch Frites, bottomless frites with a selection of either grilled steaks (a choice of three 8oz cuts) or sandwiches (corned brisket & tongue reuben $14, burger with house bacon, BC sauce & cheddar, $15, croque monsieur $15) served with the choice of select sauces from the dinner menu. For Sides, try the House Made Pecan Sticky Buns ($7) or House Made Donuts with Chocolate Sauce ($7).

On the beverage menu, you will find Prime Bloodies, culinary infused Bloody Marys, a collaboration between the kitchen and the bar. All bloodies can be “cooked” to order: Rare – bold house made Bloody Mary mix, Medium– add spice to your life, Well Done– when you want to play with fire. Selections include: Pickled Mary with asparagus, green beans, frog balls, and cornichons – all pickled in house ($10); Smoked Kebab with speared bell peppers, pearl onions, and smoked beef tongue ($10); Charred Shishito with pepper jack cheese, grilled shishito pepper, and lemon ($10); Steak & Cheese with veal stock and blue cheese stuffed olives ($10).

2) The Beehive Restaurant's latest celebration will be “La Fête nationale du Québec” or “Quebec National Day” featuring an evening of food and live performance from award-winning singer-songwriters Isabelle Cyr and Yves Marchand on Monday, June 24, from 5pm-1am. In partnership with the Quebec Delegation of Boston and Svedka Vodka, The Beehive will be decked out representing our friends to the north in proper fashion as Cyr and Marchand perform original, well-known and traditional pieces from their Quebec and Acadian repertoire from 8pm-12am.

Highlighting the true friendliness of Quebec and its people, dinner will kick off at 5pm with a La Fête nationale du Québec specials menu in addition to The Beehive’s regular fare. The evening’s food will feature traditional Quebec fare such as: Smoked Trout Cakes with Horseradish & Cucumber Salad ($12), Foie Gras & Maple Crème Brulée ($14), Brome Lake Duck Breast Au Poivre with Sweet Potato Fries ($27), Québec style Lobster Spaghetti ($32), and Bleu berries pie with Maple syrup ice cream ($8).

In the mood for some Quebec cocktails why not try some of The Beehive’s fun featured cocktails for the evening such as the "Caribou de Ville” ($11.50) blending together red wine, American Honey Wild Turkey splashes of maple syrup, served on the rocks with a cinnamon stick, or the "Quebec Urbain" ($11.50) made with Svedka Clementie, blood orange juice and muddled fresh mint served on the rocks.

There is no cover charge for this event, but dinner reservations are highly recommended, so please call 617-423-0069.

3) The Grafton Inn introduces the first annual Grafton Food Festival, a celebration of local food and farms in Vermont, to be held June 22 and 23, from 10am-4pm, in Grafton Village. The event is presented by Northeast Flavor, a food and wine magazine focused on New England culinary pursuits. Celebrate Vermont’s “taste of place” and sample local food from more than 20 local food providers including Grafton Village Cheese, Side Hill Farm, Vermont Creamery, Blake Hill Preserves, Wright Orchard Sugarworks, Vermont Smoke and Cure and more. Additional food vendors, a bar and local farms will be set-up for purchased items, as well.

Guests will have the chance to enjoy cooking demonstrations each day featuring nationally recognized chefs including Susan Tuveson and Jean Kerr of Northeast Flavor, Jason Tostrup of the Inn at Weathersfield, Martin Schuelke of the Grafton Inn and more. One lucky attendee at each of the five cooking demonstrations will win the prepared food and sit at a special Chef’s Table at the event to enjoy it.

Cost is $10 per person; children under 12 are free. The Grafton Inn will offer specially priced farm-to-table dinner menus at the Old Tavern Restaurant on Friday and Saturday evening. Friday night is a Vegetarian themed tasting dinner (with a meat option) and Saturday night is a local Pasture to Plate tasting dinner. Reservations are necessary for each dinner. Additional activities in Grafton this weekend include guided wine and cheese hikes at Grafton Ponds Outdoor Center on Saturday and Sunday at 1:30 p.m. ($25 per person) and live music at Phelps Barn Pub on Friday and Saturday night at 8 pm (no cover). The Grafton Inn is offering a special Grafton Food Festival lodging package that includes two night’s lodging at the historic inn, breakfast each morning, entry to the Food Festival and a special Food Festival welcome bag for just $375.

For the complete event agenda and to book lodging or dinner reservations, visit GraftonFoodFestival.com or call 800-843-1801.

4) Beginning Sunday, June 9, TICO hosts a monthly Summer Patio Party with food, drinks, music, games, giveaways and fun. On Sunday, July 14, from 2pm-8pm, there will be an All-American BBQ. Technically it’s Bastille Day, but don’t tell that to TICO – they’re still celebrating the Fourth well into July with classic BBQ fare like burgers, dogs, ribs, cornbread; beer samples, giveaways from Patron Tequila, and music from DJ Jaz. On Sunday, August 11, from 2pm-8pm, there will be a Patio Pig Roast. Closing out the summer with another of TICO’s winning pig roasts, the patio will be rocking once more with all-you-can-eat porchetta from the rig roast, sides, beer samples, giveaways from Patron Tequila, and music from DJ Jaz.

COST: $20/person at the door includes all-you-can-eat food, beer & spirit tastings, giveaways and live music from DJ Jaz of the Boston Celtics

5) Bistro 5, a phenomenal Italian restaurant in Medford, is celebrating strawberries and local agriculture from June 13-June 29, with a special 5 Course Tasting Menu with Wine Pairings. 50% of their dessert sales will benefit the Federation of Massachusetts Farmers Market.

The Menu is:
Strawberry Thyme Chilled Soup (Port Wine Syrup, Mascarpone and Prosciutto)
2011 Aragosta, Vermentino, Sardegna
Scungilli (Thinly Sliced Conch, Green Strawberries and Spring Onion Vinaigrette)
2011 Loosen Bros "Dr .L" Riesling, Germany
Goat Cheese Ravioli (Strawberry Confetti and Shishito Peppers)
2009 Montaribaldi, Dolcetto d'Alba
Duck Milanese (Strawberry and Window Box Shiso, Rhubarb and Cherry Compote)
2009 Zenato, Valpolicella, Ripasso
Strawberry Shortcake (White Chocolate Mousse and Lemon Cloud)
2011 Elio Perrone 'Bigarò', Brachetto d'Aqui

Cost: Tasting Menu--Five Course: $68 per person or Three Course: $49 per person
Wine Pairing--Five Course: $25 per person or Three Course: $20 per person

For reservations, please call (781) 395-7464

6) Chef-owner Chris Douglass of Ashmont Grill is hosting four special dining events this summer. Prices and menus vary.

Monday, June 24 @ 6 PM 
Joel Gott Wine Dinner: Cost $65 inclusive for 5 courses of seasonal cuisine, served communally on the patio and paired with 5 wines from this white-hot winery. Gott’'s local representative will speak. Seating for this event limited to the first 25 people who call to reserve a space.
Sunday, July 14 @ 6 PM 
Pig Roast: This exciting outdoor pork-a-thon features a traditional pig roast with all the fixin’s plus selected beers and wines. Cost is $60 inclusive.
Sunday, August 11 @ 6 PM 
Lobstah Bake: New Englanders know that this feast always includes our favorite crustacean, plus local corn, potatoes, clams, hot dogs, watermelon and more. Act fast as seating is limited @ $60 inclusive.
Sunday, September 8 @ 6 PM 
Dueling Chefs of Dorchester: This exciting competition pits the kitchen teams of Ashmont Grill and Tavolo (our sister restaurant) against each other in an end-of-the-season patio party chock full of local farm fare, meats, fish, psta, homey desserts, wine and beer. $75 inclusive.

Rain dates for all four events will be posted online.

7) Joseph Cassinelli, Chef & Owner of the Alpine Restaurant Group, announced three new hires to his restaurant team. The Alpine Restaurant Group currently owns and operates Posto, Posto Mobile and The Painted Burro in Davis Square. These are some of my favorite restaurants. Alpine Restaurant Group has named two inaugural positions including: Alec Riveros as Director of Operations and Chef Robert Jean as the Culinary Director of the group. Additionally, Chef Wyatt Maguire joins as Executive Chef of Posto.

“In 2010, Posto was one of the first restaurants to debut in the resurgence of the Davis Square restaurant scene,” says Joseph Cassinelli. “It is New England’s first Verace Pizza Napoletana certified pizzeria, but over time it has evolved to be much more. Under the direction of our new team, guests can now enjoy a dining experience that highlights the simplicity of Italian cuisine augmented with the New England bounty. An extensive antipasti program of small plates, handmade pasta dishes, and local grilled meats and fish are labors of love that we are all excited to share.”

The new menu at Posto showcases the simplicity of Italian cooking with a focus on artisan ingredients. The menu includes a new section of Stouzi (white bean puree with cauliflower giardinerre), Ensalate (string bean salad with fava, pea, sunchoke, Gaeta olive and pistachio pesto) and Primi (ciabatta with rosemary roasted peach, foie gras & lavender sea salt). The Pasta section features an expanded selection of hand made dishes such as a rabbit tagliatelle with peas, carrots, toasted garlic, farm egg & tarragon. The Pizza selections offer both rosso and bianco selections and continue to be made in the true Neapolitan spirit with “00” flour, San Marzano tomatoes, and house made fior di latte mozzarella. A new section of Carne e Pesce showcases wood roasted meat as well as an extended selection of seafood dishes such as whole roasted sea bass “cartocchio” with spicy pomodoro, fennel & saffron sea salt and brook trout with kale, chiogga beet, sweet onion & bone marrow “almondine.”

The beverage program at Posto has also been revamped. The cocktail list now includes a selection of Aperitivo such as Aperol Spritz which is available by the pitcher, Cocktails made with house infused spirits, house made limoncello and simple syrups, in addition to selections of local and international draft and bottled beer. The wine list features sparkling, rose, white and red wine selections available both by the bottle and by the glass. Posto’s beverage program also features an imported Italian wine preservation system called Enzo. Enzo’s extensive wine by the glass program allows guests to enjoy rare selections of reserve wines by the glass. I look forward to checking out all the changes.

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Bread+Butter: Lee Napoli's New North End Cafe

"Pastry is different from cooking because you have to consider the chemistry, beauty and flavor. It's not just sugar and eggs thrown together. I tell my pastry chefs to be in tune for all of this. You have to be challenged by using secret or unusual ingredients."
--Ron Ben-Israel

With places like Mike's Pastry, Bova's Bakery and Modern Pastry, does the North End really need another bakery? If another bakery wanted to make inroads into the North End, it would need a highly talented Pastry Chef as well as offer something significantly different from many of the other bakeries. Well, the new Bread + Butter bakery and cafe may fit that bill and I highly recommend that you visit this new spot and partake of their baked wonders.

The owner/chef is Lee Napoli (pictured above), a skilled Pastry Chef who has worked at or consulted at such Boston area restaurants as Icarus, Maison Robert, Grill 23, Anago, Metro, Bricco, The Buttery and Sandrine’s Bistro. In addition, she established the region’s first and only association for pastry professionals, the Professional Pastry Guild of New England. She is also the owner of Chocolee Chocolates, located in the South End, which has long been my favorite chocolate shop in the city. I was excited to learn that Lee was opening a bakery & cafe in the North End, believing it would be a hit as well.

Bread + Butter is located at the former spot of Caffé Graffiti, at the intersection of Cross and Salem streets. For the summer, much of the space is open to the air, and the outside patio will seat about 30 people. While relaxing on a bench or in the grass at the nearby Rose Kennedy Greenway, you can view the restaurant, and when you see everyone dining there, it may entice you to check it out. The inside is small, with approximately ten tables, but the open walls make it seem much roomier.

The bakery-cafe sells both savory and sweet items, from sandwiches to chocolates, salads to cookies. Most of the baked goods and pastries are visible on the long counter, and I am sure you will be enticed by multiple items. As it is still new, selections may change with time as they hone and revise their menu selections. The key here is that this is not a traditional Italian bakery, so its offerings are very different than what you will find at other North End bakeries. There is no Cannoli, no La Sfogliatella, no Pizzelle. Instead, you will find creative offerings which you might find at other artisan bakeries, all with Chef Napoli's unique touches.

Behind the front counter, you can see partially into the kitchen where all of the magic bakery is taking place. You might even see Chef Napoli working on some new creation. I was recently invited to a media tasting, and got to sample some of the delicious items coming out of this kitchen.

Bread+ Butter is open for breakfast, and serves a variety of enticing items including scones, danish, croissants, quiche and muffins. They even serve a Breakfast Pizza, topped with a poached egg and assorted savory toppings. I didn't get a chance to taste the pizza but I will do so on one of my next visits. They also sell a variety of coffees and teas, including iced tea, as well as their own House Made Sparkling Sodas. I tried the Raspberry soda, and after a good stir, it was a refreshing drink with only a mild sweetness.

For lunch, you can find an assortment of Sandwiches (most for $7.95) and Salads ($6-$9). Try a BBQ Pulled Pork or a Duck Confit. Or maybe a Kale & Farro Salad or a Caesar Salad. All of the breads are made in house, and the exact type will vary from day to day. The baguettes are delicious, with just that right combination of textures, a crustier exterior but a soft fluffy interior. And they make for good sandwich bread, not too heavy or tough.

It is the pastries which will most intrigue and delight your taste buds. They sell chocolates and truffles from Chocolee Chocolates, though it will mainly be mixed boxes, giving you an assortment of chocolate treasures. You will find other treats too, such as Hand-Dipped Eclairs, Beignets, Cakes and Tarts Du Jour, Cheesecake, Lemon Almond Cake, Brownies, and much more. I have had the eclairs and beignets at Chocolee Chocolates are they were excellent, with compelling fillings or rich cream or chocolate.

You will find a few different croissants, including a Ham & Cheese Croissant. Pure enjoyment! Flaky, light, and buttery with a bit of saltiness from the ham. An excellent croissant, and I suspect all of the varieties will be equally as good.

The Nutella Danish, visible above in pieces in the right hand corner, is also flaky and light, with intriguing notes of nuts, cinnamon and creamy chocolate. Another winner, well balanced flavors sure to please.

The deliciousness continues. The Pecan Roll is a soft mound of sticky, nutty goodness. Trying to decide which pastry to order is difficult with all of these excellent choices available.

I am a fan of coconut, and a cookie made of all coconut, a macaroon, has always appealed to me. Their macaroons are moist, not too dense, and have a nice drizzle of chocolate over them. Definitely one of the better coconut macaroons I have tasted.

Maybe the most compelling pastry though was the Queen's Pastry, the item in the back of the above photo with a toothpick in it. Based on an old French recipe, it is sometimes described as a cross between a croissant and a puff pastry. In the past, it might have been the scraps of these items, combined, and put into a mold. Here, it is a yeasted butter dough with salt and sugar. It is light and airy, with an exquisite melange of sweet and salty, an addictive treat which you could easily devour and then desire another.

A couple of the baked goods were good, but not especially interesting like the items I have highlighted above. However, this is a brand new bakery so it will need a little time to work out any kinks, and decide which baked goods are the best for them. Overall, I am impressed with Bread+ Butter and think Chef Napoli has another winner on her hands. It is a worthy addition to the North End. I will certainly be back to try more of the menu and it receives my highest recommendation.

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Oyá Cuban Cafe: A Warrior-Spirit Presiding Over The Kitchen

I have had little experience with authentic Cuban cuisine, which is commonly considered to be a mix of Spanish, African and Caribbean cuisines. So I was intrigued to learn of a new Cuban restaurant, the Oya Cuban Cafe, which recently came to Malden. It has only been open for a few months and I have dined there for lunch a couple times. Based on my experiences so far, it is a restaurant worth checking out.

The restaurant is owned by a husband and wife team. Roberto and Maybi Niubo. Roberto, who was born and raised in Cuba, is the chef and began his culinary education in Cuba. He continued his education in Massachusetts, at the Le Cordon Bleu School of Culinary Arts in Cambridge. The name of the restaurant, Oyá, derives from a goddess in the Yoruba religion. Oyá is a warrior-spirit of the wind, lightning, fertility, fire, and magic. It is she who looks over the restaurant.

The restaurants is simply decorated and seats about 38 people plus 6 at the small bar. It has a bit of a homey ambiance with a partially open kitchen. They recently obtained a license to sell wine and beer and their current wine list is small, about 14 wines, but the selections are actually interesting and relatively inexpensive. You'll find a Fino Sherry, a LBV Port, Cava, and other wines from Spain, Portugal, Argentina and elsewhere. Most of the bottles are priced under $30, with their highest wine at $36. Pretty good for a small restaurant.

Their food is intended to be authentic, and nearly everything is made in house. That is certainly a good selling point. The Lunch menu is broken into Appetizers ($6-$12, Soups ($5), Salads ($3-$6), Sandwiches ($7-$10) and Entrees ($13-$15). The Dinner menu has additional choices, and prices are a bit higher for those items, with entrees up to $24 (a Filet Mignon). And yes, you will find a traditional Cuban sandwich on the Lunch menu, as well as sliders for Dinner.

In the Appetizers, the Croquetas de Pollo ($7) are chicken croquettes served with a rustic Cuban sofrito sauce. The crunchy exterior hides the soft mashed potatoes and chicken within. They are filling and the sofrito is nicely spiced, with lots of flavor.

Another Appetizer is the Empanadas de Carne ($8), Beef Empanadas which are also served with a rustic Cuban sofrito. These were impressive, with a crisp, fresh tasting empanada containing a hot, juicy sauce with tender ground beef, olives and spices. I could have made a meal of these empanadas alone and they get my strongest recommendation.

Under the Sandwiches, I ordered the Medianoche Oyá ($8), a "midnight" sandwich with BBQ slow roasted pork, chorizo, and melted Swiss Cheese on soft bread. It is called a "midnight" sandwich because it is popular in Cuban nightclubs around midnight. This is an ample sandwich, filled with plenty of flavorful meat and cheese. I should note that there are onions on the sandwich, within the roasted pork, though the onions are not listed as an ingredient. The bread was fresh and soft, pairing well with the stuffings and the addition of the chorizo was great. Next time, I need to try their Cuban.

In the Entrees, I opted for the Arroz a la Cubana ($13), a plate of Cuban style ground beef, white rice and a fried egg with a side of Sweets Fried Plantains. The plentiful ground beef is within a compelling and tasty sauce which has olives, onions and what seem to be tiny grapes. It is a hearty dish, perfect for a rainy or cold day. The plantains though were a bit dry and not very exciting.

The Dessert menu has four choices, priced $5-$6, and includes Rice Pudding and Caramel Flan. My choice though was the Pudín de Pan con Dulce de Leche y Helado ($6), a warm Bread Pudding with ice cream, and it was stellar. A great consistency and taste to the bread pudding, and the caramel sauce was enticing. The ice cream enhanced the dish and I would come to the restaurant just for this dessert. Highly recommended.

Overall, the restaurant is making some excellent dishes, and a couple items which are more ordinary, though not unappealing. I still would like to try more items on the menu, especially on the dinner menu. Portion sizes are good and prices are very reasonable. Service is excellent, friendly and attentive. There is much reason to check out Oyá Cuban Cafe and get a taste of Cuba.

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Pazzo Gelato Cafe: Willy Wonka & Duality

"Try some more. The strawberries taste like strawberries, and the snozzberries taste like snozzberries."
--Willy Wonka

As a child, I loved the movie Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory and it still occupies a special place in my heart. Such a twisted and fun movie, and Gene Wilder played such a great role. The remake was a travesty. Last week I visited a new gelato shop which was inspired by Willy Wonka, and found an abundance of vibrant and natural flavors.

The Pazzo Gelato Cafe recently opened in North Andover and its website is under construction though their Facebook page has some details about the shop. It is open every day, from 10am-10pm, except Sundays when it opens at 12pm. The cafe can be easily located on Route 114, in the Eaglewood Shops. Besides its Wonka inspiration, it is also an exemplar of duality, a showcase of opposing characteristics.

Pazzo, an Italian word which means "crazy," is owned by Jim Demotses, a former lawyer who graduated from Suffolk Law School, the same law school where I graduated. Jim has also worked in restaurants his whole life and eventually realized that food and cooking were his true passion. I can relate to his career change, leaving the legal profession. Jim received his primary training at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts and immersed himself more deeply into gelato at the Gelato & Pastry Institute of America as well as the Carpigiani Frozen Dessert University in North Carolina.

"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
--Willy Wonka

Jim was inspired by Willy Wonka, and one of the cafe walls is covered by a colorful mural which is meant to reflect, in part, the Lickable Wallpaper from the Wonka movie. Though I don't advise licking the murals. The cafe, small and welcoming, has 7 tables, made from reclaimed wood, where you can sit and eat. Jim's philosophy "...centers on providing an authentic Italian gelateria experience by serving freshly-made products sourced from local dairy producers, using imported Italian flavorings and high-quality fresh fruits." Based on my visit, he seems to be living up to this philosophy.

There is another colorful mural on one of the other walls, it is is essentially the family mural, presenting images of Jim's family. You can see his wife, Karen, his daughter, Helen, and his son, Andrew. The mural also depicts the village in Campagna, Italy, where Karen's grandfather was born. The murals on both walls were designed by Kate Delaney, a local artist, and there is even a QR code within the mural which leads to a video of Kate designing the mural.

One of their glass cases holds numerous baked goods, most which are made in house except for the tea breads. The cookies and muffins are made fresh in the cafe. You can stop by for breakfast, to grab a treat with some coffee or tea.

"Bubbles, bubbles everywhere, but not a drop to drink - yet."
--Willy Wonka

Besides food, they also sell a variety of drinks, including coffee (from espresso to cappucino), tea and hot chocolate. And the drinks come either hot or cold. They make fresh brewed, unsweetened iced tea which pleased me to see. You can even get frozen drinks, such as an Espresso Frappino or Fruit Smoothie.

The first aspect of duality is that the Cafe produces both sweet and savory treats. Though gelato is their primary focus, they also prepare a line of Paninis. You'll find eight paninis on the menu, priced from $7.95-$8.95, and includes types such as Caprese and Chicken Milanese, Vegetarian and Reubino. Each panini is served with a small bag of Utz potato chips.

When I arrived at Pazzo, I ordered the Porchetta panini, which consists of thinly sliced, slow roasted Italian herb & spice rubbed pork topped by pickles, tomatoes, Swiss cheese, and chipotle mayo (though I opted for it without the mayo). It was quite tasty, with tender pork and a nice grilled bread, and would make for a good lunch at any time.

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams."
--Willy Wonka

The primary star of the shop is gelato and they usually carry 20+ flavors, divided into two glass cases. The smaller case contains all of the gelatos with nuts, to protect people who possess nut allergies. The sorbets, which are dairy free, are also differentiated by scoops with blue handles. They even sell gluten free gelato.

This is where we find another aspect of duality, local vs imported. Jim is strong in his support of the use of local ingredients but he finds value in imported ingredients as well, especially those from Italy. Locally, Jim uses the following vendors: Shaw Dairy Farm of Dracut for dairy products, CASA Foods of Middleton for imported Italian meats and cheeses, Iggy’s Breads of the World of Cambridge for freshly-baked pastries and bagels, and Jessica’s Brick Oven of North Andover for breads and rolls. He may use other local vendors in the future as well.

Jim also plans on using locally grown fruits, from farms and farmer's markets, when they are in season, and gelatos using those fruits will be differentiated as "native" gelatos. All of their sorbets are made from real fruit, and they do not use any artificial flavorings or colorings. When fruits are not in season, they rely on individually quick frozen fruit, which is ripe fruit, cut into pieces, and flash frozen to preserve its freshness and taste.

All of their nut flavors are imported from Italy, such as their Sicilian pistachio. They also obtain their  biscotti flavoring, rum raisin, and cheesecake from Italy. Their pure vanilla extract is obtained from France and it is alcohol-free, which thus won't interfere with the freezing of the gelato.

"And almost everything you'll see is eatable, edible. I mean, you can eat almost everything."
--Willy Wonka

Gelato comes in Small ($3.45), Medium ($4.15) or Large ($4.95) and you can get a fresh-made Waffle cone for an extra $1. While I was in the store, they were making the waffle cones and such an appealing aroma pervaded the shop. If you need a larger portion of gelato, you can order it by the Pint, Snack Pack or Party Pack (which holds 2+ pounds of gelato for $19.95). Or opt instead for a Gelato Sundae ($5.99) or Brownie Sundae ($7.25). If you order a Gelato Sandwich ($4.95), they will put your chosen flavor between any of their home-made cookies. Plenty of gelato options.

They even sell Gelato Frappes (medium $5.95, large $6.95), which can be topped by home-made whipped cream. I tried one with Banana Stracciatella gelato and it was creamy, thick and flavorful, and who wouldn't enjoy real whipped cream?

Jim allowed me to sample any of the flavors that I desired and I sampled nearly all of them, including flavors such as Chocolate Kahlua Brownie, Almond Coconut, Toasted Almond, Chocolate Sorbet, Stracciatella, Cheesecake with Amarena Cherries, Banana Stracciatella, Lemon Sorbet, Watermelon Sorbet, Pineapple & Orange Sorbet, Caramel and Pistachio. For their Pistachio, they use 100% Sicilian pistachios, and no other filler nuts like some other places do. Pistachios are expensive, which is why some use fillers. This gelato had such a prominent pistachio flavor, tasting exactly like a handful of nuts. It tasted fresh and natural, with a delightful creaminess.

In fact, nearly every flavor I tasted possessed a bright, fresh and natural taste. The fruit sorbets tasted like fresh fruit, and not some artificial flavorings. I very much enjoyed the Watermelon Sorbet and the Lemon Sorbet was quite refreshing. The Caramel, Chocolate, Banana and Vanilla flavors were all bright and delicious too. The Stracciatella presented a smoother, rich and less crunchy chocolate than you find in the usual Chocolate Chip. Even though I am not a huge fan of cheesecake, I enjoyed their Cheesecake with Amarena Cherries.

The only disappointment for me was the Almond Coconut which I felt didn't deliver as prominent a coconut flavor as the other flavors did. All of the other flavors were compelling, and would appeal to any gelato or ice cream lover. This is damn good gelato.

"Invention, my dear friends, is 93% perspiration, 6% electricity, 4% evaporation, and 2% butterscotch ripple."
--Willy Wonka

Jim took me into the kitchen and showed me how they make gelato. They begin with either one of two bases, one white (pictured above) and the other chocolate. The white is mostly whole milk, a little cream, vanilla, and stabilizers. I got to taste both bases and they too delivered strong, rich flavors of vanilla and chocolate. The process allows much creativity, and Jim is always experimenting with different gelato flavors. Above, Jim is preparing to make a Tiramisu ice cream. This raises another aspect of duality, as much of the gelato work is artisan, done by hand, yet the process also include a high-tech component.

Once the gelato mixture has been completed, it is poured into the batch freezer. Jim purchased a Carpigiani batch freezer, from Italy (costing around $30K), a highly advanced machine which ensures a perfect gelato. It only takes about 5-6 minutes to make a batch of gelato, though a bit longer in the morning until the machine has had a chance to get cold enough. With this machine, Jim can make enough gelato during the day to fill his two cases. Most of the gelato flavors are made once a day, and sometimes twice a day. Occasionally, a gelato is left in the case for two days but no longer than that. The nut gelatos are always made at the end of the day so as to not contaminate the other nut-free gelatos. At the end of the day, the machine is then thoroughly cleaned for the next day.

Once the gelato comes out of the batch freezer, it will be placed into a blast chiller, at about -40 degress Celsius, for a short time to prevent the gelato from developing ice crystals.

Pazzo's commitment to the support of the local community takes shape in other ways besides their purchase of local products. They hire co-op students from Greater Lawrence Regional Vocational Technical School to work at the shop. They reduce their carbon footprint by implementing green practices, including working with Black Earth Haulers, a food composting company based in Gloucester, which transports food waste to Brick End Farm in Hamilton to be turned into usable compost for local farms. On the counter, you will even find "community jars" for tips, and the employees donate those tips to different local charities each month.

Though new, Jim still looks to the future, and how he can grow and make Pazzo even better. He will continue to develop and create new gelato flavors. He would like to work with local restaurants and develop special flavors just for them. I think the future looks very bright for Pazzo Gelato Cafe as they are producing a high quality and delicious product. Their gelato flavors will appeal to even the most discerning palate, and they satisfy with their prominent, bright and natural tastes. Kudos to Jim and I wish him the best of luck in his endeavors.

"There is no life I know to compare with pure imagination. Living there, you'll be free if you truly wish to be."
--Willy Wonka

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Tuesday nights are now “Arlington Fried Chicken Night” at Tryst Restaurant in Arlington. This off menu special is available only on Tuesdays from 5pm-10pm and is focused on takeout. Guests will get 2 pieces of fried chicken marinated in buttermilk, double dredged and double-fried to a perfect golden crisp, along with a side of house-made whipped mashed potatoes with pan gravy, fresh coleslaw and a warm from-scratch buttermilk biscuit for $20.

The best part, $3 of each order sold will go directly to various Arlington based nonprofits including the Arlington Center for the Arts, Arlington Boys and Girls Club, and the Arlington Education Foundation.

Diners can call ahead and pick up this packaged meal which is available for take-out or dine-in on Tuesday nights only. Each AFC box is $20 (feeds one person) and can be ordered by calling the restaurant at (781) 641-2227.

Fried Chicken Recipe:
One all natural chicken, approximately four pounds. (Serves: 8)

Dry Rub:
1 Tablespoon smoked paprika
½ Tablespoon garlic powder
2 Tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dry mustard
¼ teaspoon cayenne

One day in advance:
Cut chicken into ten pieces, removing the back bone and wing tips.
Combine all of the ingredients for the dry rub and massage into the chicken parts. Refrigerate overnight.

Day of:
Vegetable oil for frying
2 cups buttermilk
4 cups all-purpose flour

Preheat oil to 350˚.
Remove chicken from the refrigerator, do not rinse. Double batter in the buttermilk and flour (buttermilk, flour, buttermilk, flour).
Fry in batches, approximately 8 minutes
Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

2) Proprietor/General Manager Chris Campbell & Executive Chef/Partner Scott Hebert announced Sue Drabkin has taken the helm as Pastry Chef at Troquet. Drabkin was most recently the Executive Pastry Chef at RIS in Washington, D.C.’s West End.

Campbell said of Drabkin’s work, “Sue's mature dessert approach pairs well with our in-house wine approach: Providing uncompromising quality with sophistication & elegance.”

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena, CA, Drabkin has since worked in some other New England kitchens including Rhode Island’s Stone House at Pietra Restaurant in Little Compton, & more recently at Harvest Restaurant in Cambridge, MA. During her two-year tenure at Harvest, she created seasonal menus from local produce available in Boston.

Drabkin said, “I am trained in the nuances of pastry, but what I think our guests will taste in my work is much more than technique & fresh ingredients. I have a lifelong affection for art & antiques – I design my own jewelry, too. My desserts embrace creativity & passion, & are very personal to me.”

Drabkin’s inaugural menu includes:
Pineapple Macaroon Napoleon with crème fraîche, roasted & fresh pineapple, mango sorbet, & toasted macadamia nuts
Lemon Meringue Tartlet with Amarena cherries, torched meringue, pistachio & sour cream lemon sorbet
Crème Brûlée Gâteau with orange chiffon, feuille de brick, brown sugar ice cream, blood orange sauce, & pomegranate
Valhrona Chocolate Soufflé with espresso crème anglaise, & cinnamon truffle ice cream
Lime-Ginger Parfait with gingersnap, cassis, lime gel, & lemon ginger sauce
Caramèlia Mousse Bombe with hazelnut crumble, bittersweet chocolate sorbet, & passion fruit coulis

3) Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is helping everyone gear up for Marathon Monday by offering an array of carb-laced specials on Marathon Sunday, from 5:30pm-10pm, at Prezza in the North End. Chef Caturano will dish out a trio of handmade pasta options that will allow runners and spectators the opportunity to deliciously fuel up the night before going the distance…be it physically or mentally: Orecchiette (broccoli rabe, sausage, Taleggio cheese); Linguini (shrimp, spring garlic, fava beans, white wine); or, Bucatini all’ Amatriciana. Chef Caturano’s Marathon Sunday specials are available as individual entrees for $18 or for an unlimited portion of one for the apt price of $26.2(0) per person.

For one night only, this trio of specials will join Caturano’s staple handmade seasonal pasta offerings, available in both appetizer and entrée portions, including: Ravioli di Ouvo (ravioli stuffed with ricotta and egg yolk tossed with butter and sage - $12); Lobster Fra Diavlo (tagliatelle, roasted tomato, fennel, lobster meat - $18: appetizer; $25: entree); Pea Raviolini (Jones ham, English peas, mint, mascarpone, pecorino cheese - $15: appetizer; $30: entree); Walnut Ravioli (rabbit, fava beans, sage, butter, parmigiano cheese - $15: appetizer; $30: entree); and, Potato Gnocchi a la Bolognese (rustic meat ragout, tomato, porcini cream, pecorino cheese - $15: appetizer; $30: entree).

For reservations, please call 617-227-1577

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Rant: Cheap Chinatown Cakes

At your favorite bakeries, how much does it cost to buy a slice of cake? When a simple cupcake may cost you $3 or more, then a slice of cake can easily run you $4 or $5. Their other desserts are usually similarly priced and purchasing a dozen treats can be rather expensive. You could easily spend $30-$50 for a dozen sweets and that can be tough for many of us to do during these tough economic times.

How many bakeries do you know where a slice of cake, or other desserts, cost only $1? Probably few, if any. They do exist though and you can find several of them within a short distance of each other, if you know where to look.    

Last week, I ate in Chinatown twice and during those visits I stopped at a few bakeries to purchase several treats to take home with me. One of my stops was at Eldo Cake House, a favorite spot, especially as I love their coconut cake slices. It is almost unbelievable that they charge less than $1 for that slice of coconut cake! In fact, they sell a number of cake slices and various other baked goods for under $1. The other Chinatown bakeries I visited have similar pricing and you can find so many different items for under $1.

Cheap, cheap, cheap! 

Though these prices are cheap, what about the taste of these desserts? I have enjoyed nearly everything I have eaten at these Chinatown bakeries and believe they offer an excellent quality for the value. You can find plenty of diversity, something to appeal to all tastes and preferences, and you won't break the bank. I don't think the Chinatown bakeries receive enough credit for what they have to offer. They might not be as flashy as some of the more lauded bakeries, but their more subtle or plainer treats can well satisfy your sweet cravings.

Don't elevate style over substance, especially when that style comes with a much greater cost. What truly is important to you in a dessert? Price? Taste? The next time you want to visit a bakery, why not consider a trip to Chinatown.

What s your favorite Chinatown bakery?

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Tuscan Market: A Worthy Italian Destination

There is a new Italian market located in Salem, New Hampshire but is it worthy of your patronage? Is it too expensive as some consumers have alleged? Does it live up to its potential?

Last September, I attended a preview event for Tuscan Market, a new Italian food market that eventually opened in November. You should read my prior review for background on this new endeavor. As I said then, "I think the concept behind the Tuscan Market is excellent, a one stop destination for great, fresh Italian food and wine." I was impressed with what I saw and tasted, and believed that Tuscan Market had great potential. Obviously, I wanted to follow up, to determine if it lived up to that potential once it opened to the public.

Recently, I visited the Tuscan Market for the first time since it officially opened in November, having given it a couple months to work out any initial kinks. In short, Tuscan Market has lived up to its potential and is worthy of my highest recommendation. It is a one-stop shopping destination for a diverse variety of Italian foods, wines, ingredients, equipment and much more. Some of the foods are prepared on premises, such as bread and pasta, while others are imported from Italy. There is also a small café where you can grab a bite to eat, such as pizzas and paninos. Having all of these delicious items available in a single location is convenient.

As you enter your store, to your left are the cashiers and just past them is a section of kitchen supplies, from coffee makers to pizza stones and cookware. You can find wine glasses, cork screws and other wine-related paraphernalia. In a different area of the store, there is also a table of Italian cookbooks and magazines. So it is not all just food and wine.

Past the kitchen supplies it the wine room and their selection currently includes about 220 wines, with more coming. Most of the wines are displayed on the above shelves but there is also a small cooler holding white and sparkling wines. Most of the wines are Italian though you will find others from all over the world, from California to France, and the choices range from big producers to small, more artisan ones. Wine tastings are held on Saturdays, from 11:30am-3pm. Prices are reasonable and some even seem low compared to other wine stores.  

These shelves held a variety of packaged foods, many imported from Italy, including dry pasta to tea, tuna fish to sauces. Once again, the prices are reasonable, and some products are even lower than what you will find at large supermarkets. At this point, I am starting to realize that those people who have claimed the market is too expensive might not have been correct.

There are refrigerated coolers holding homemade frozen pastas and other items. Prices also seem very reasonable and you can get 8 big ravioli, such as cheese or mushrooms, for only $5-$6, while lobster raviolis cost $14.39.

Want a homemade sauce? Check out their 16 ounce packages, including such varieties as San Marzano Tomato sauce $5, Bolognese $7, and Wild Boar Ragu $7. If you don't have enough time to make your own sauce, but don't want to use a jar sauced, then these fresh made sauce are an excellent option. And then are less expensive than some jar sauces too.

Ah, the breads! You can watch them baking fresh bread in their ovens and the smell is intoxicating. They had seven types of bread available, including Ciabatta, Focaccia, Roasted Garlic, Rustic Olive, Seven Grain, Cranberry Walnut, and Pane Pugliese, all reasonably priced from $3.99-$5.99. Their Roasted Garlic is amazing, with large garlic cloves inside the bread. I bought a loaf on my visit and it had just come out of the oven. It was even too hot for them to slice. Beware, you might need to buy two loaves as one might not survive your drive, as you decided to tear off a piece and devour it while it is warm.

They have a good selection of cheeses, though not as extensive as you will find in some other larger markets and shops. However, there are plenty of excellent options and prices are comparable to other cheese vendors.

There is also a good selection of cured meats, sausages, hams and such. Prices are also competitive, such as the Prosciutto di Parma at $16.99/pound. Get some wine, bread, cheese and cured meats and you have the makings for a great meal.

Several varieties of fresh pasta were available, including: pappardelle $5.99/lb, orecchiette $5.99/lb, tagliatelle $5.99/lb, and capellini $5.99/lb. I have tried a couple of the pastas, and they both tasted great, with a nice texture. For two people, a pound of pasta may be sufficient for two meals, making the pasta a great value.

Their fresh filled pastas include items like Short Rib Tortelli $8.99/lb, Mushroom Ravioli $7.99/lb, Butternut Squash Cappellacci $6.99/lb, Quattro Formaggi Ravioli $6.99/lb and Maine Lobster Ravioli $19.99/lb. I tried the Short Rib Tortelli and they were delicious, with plenty of moist, tender meat inside a compelling pasta triangle. They did not skimp on the fillings. Again, you get plenty of pasta in a pound, and the prices are very reasonable.

There is a small, but good, selection of meats. You can find a greater selection at a butcher shop but there are plenty of fine options here. You will find beef options such as Filet $22.99/lb and Aged Ribeye $12.99/lb, and prices are comparable to numerous other markets.

There were three different Sausages available, priced $5.99-$6.99/lb, and once again a reasonable price. You will also find another case with packages of marinated meats, from chicken to lamb. Overall, you have plenty of meat choices.

The Market sells a variety of freshly prepared items such as lasagna, arancini, eggplant parmigiana, chicken parmigiana, meatballs and more. The food looks enticing and comes in good-sized portions.

There was not much produce available but that is likely a seasonal issue.

Presently, they sell very little seafood, except for shrimp, but they are working on changing that. Sometime in the near future, they will likely have a much better selection of seafood available.

At their cafe, you have several options and nearly everything is $10 or less. Above, you can see their Panino sandwiches ($8.99), which are pressed to order and are good-sized, and freshly made that day. They were making sandwiches and putting them in the case while I was there. They also have Soup and Salads available, most salads costing $6 except for the Antipasto at $9.

You can also order Pizza, which I tasted and very much enjoyed during the preview event, or a pasta dish with your choice of pasta, sauce, and finish. Prices are reasonable, making lunch very affordable.

There are plenty of dessert options, from Cupcakes ($2.50) to Tiramisu ($2.99), from Cakes to Cookies. You can buy entire cakes or just slices. They even sell gluten free baked goods, though those are not made on premises as they lack a gluten free kitchen.

Or you can try some of the delectable Gelato, coming in a wide range of flavors, priced from Small ($2.69) to Large ($4.69). The gelato is made on the premises and comes in many compelling flavors.

Service was great, the employees all being very pleasant, courteous and helpful. Free food samples are available, enticing you to buy more. Overall, I found the prices here to be very reasonable, and even lower than other food markets. One must also remember that fresh, artisan food products may sometimes cost more than cheap, mass-produced, prepackaged items. However, they are usually worth the higher price. I love the diversity of food and wine available here, especially as all of it can be found under one roof. The Tuscan Market receives my highest recommendation and you should make the easy drive up Rt.93 to Salem to shop here. I will certainly return soon and hope to see you there.

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