Bread+Butter: Lee Napoli's New North End Cafe

"Pastry is different from cooking because you have to consider the chemistry, beauty and flavor. It's not just sugar and eggs thrown together. I tell my pastry chefs to be in tune for all of this. You have to be challenged by using secret or unusual ingredients."
--Ron Ben-Israel

With places like Mike's Pastry, Bova's Bakery and Modern Pastry, does the North End really need another bakery? If another bakery wanted to make inroads into the North End, it would need a highly talented Pastry Chef as well as offer something significantly different from many of the other bakeries. Well, the new Bread + Butter bakery and cafe may fit that bill and I highly recommend that you visit this new spot and partake of their baked wonders.

The owner/chef is Lee Napoli (pictured above), a skilled Pastry Chef who has worked at or consulted at such Boston area restaurants as Icarus, Maison Robert, Grill 23, Anago, Metro, Bricco, The Buttery and Sandrine’s Bistro. In addition, she established the region’s first and only association for pastry professionals, the Professional Pastry Guild of New England. She is also the owner of Chocolee Chocolates, located in the South End, which has long been my favorite chocolate shop in the city. I was excited to learn that Lee was opening a bakery & cafe in the North End, believing it would be a hit as well.

Bread + Butter is located at the former spot of Caffé Graffiti, at the intersection of Cross and Salem streets. For the summer, much of the space is open to the air, and the outside patio will seat about 30 people. While relaxing on a bench or in the grass at the nearby Rose Kennedy Greenway, you can view the restaurant, and when you see everyone dining there, it may entice you to check it out. The inside is small, with approximately ten tables, but the open walls make it seem much roomier.

The bakery-cafe sells both savory and sweet items, from sandwiches to chocolates, salads to cookies. Most of the baked goods and pastries are visible on the long counter, and I am sure you will be enticed by multiple items. As it is still new, selections may change with time as they hone and revise their menu selections. The key here is that this is not a traditional Italian bakery, so its offerings are very different than what you will find at other North End bakeries. There is no Cannoli, no La Sfogliatella, no Pizzelle. Instead, you will find creative offerings which you might find at other artisan bakeries, all with Chef Napoli's unique touches.

Behind the front counter, you can see partially into the kitchen where all of the magic bakery is taking place. You might even see Chef Napoli working on some new creation. I was recently invited to a media tasting, and got to sample some of the delicious items coming out of this kitchen.

Bread+ Butter is open for breakfast, and serves a variety of enticing items including scones, danish, croissants, quiche and muffins. They even serve a Breakfast Pizza, topped with a poached egg and assorted savory toppings. I didn't get a chance to taste the pizza but I will do so on one of my next visits. They also sell a variety of coffees and teas, including iced tea, as well as their own House Made Sparkling Sodas. I tried the Raspberry soda, and after a good stir, it was a refreshing drink with only a mild sweetness.

For lunch, you can find an assortment of Sandwiches (most for $7.95) and Salads ($6-$9). Try a BBQ Pulled Pork or a Duck Confit. Or maybe a Kale & Farro Salad or a Caesar Salad. All of the breads are made in house, and the exact type will vary from day to day. The baguettes are delicious, with just that right combination of textures, a crustier exterior but a soft fluffy interior. And they make for good sandwich bread, not too heavy or tough.

It is the pastries which will most intrigue and delight your taste buds. They sell chocolates and truffles from Chocolee Chocolates, though it will mainly be mixed boxes, giving you an assortment of chocolate treasures. You will find other treats too, such as Hand-Dipped Eclairs, Beignets, Cakes and Tarts Du Jour, Cheesecake, Lemon Almond Cake, Brownies, and much more. I have had the eclairs and beignets at Chocolee Chocolates are they were excellent, with compelling fillings or rich cream or chocolate.

You will find a few different croissants, including a Ham & Cheese Croissant. Pure enjoyment! Flaky, light, and buttery with a bit of saltiness from the ham. An excellent croissant, and I suspect all of the varieties will be equally as good.

The Nutella Danish, visible above in pieces in the right hand corner, is also flaky and light, with intriguing notes of nuts, cinnamon and creamy chocolate. Another winner, well balanced flavors sure to please.

The deliciousness continues. The Pecan Roll is a soft mound of sticky, nutty goodness. Trying to decide which pastry to order is difficult with all of these excellent choices available.

I am a fan of coconut, and a cookie made of all coconut, a macaroon, has always appealed to me. Their macaroons are moist, not too dense, and have a nice drizzle of chocolate over them. Definitely one of the better coconut macaroons I have tasted.

Maybe the most compelling pastry though was the Queen's Pastry, the item in the back of the above photo with a toothpick in it. Based on an old French recipe, it is sometimes described as a cross between a croissant and a puff pastry. In the past, it might have been the scraps of these items, combined, and put into a mold. Here, it is a yeasted butter dough with salt and sugar. It is light and airy, with an exquisite melange of sweet and salty, an addictive treat which you could easily devour and then desire another.

A couple of the baked goods were good, but not especially interesting like the items I have highlighted above. However, this is a brand new bakery so it will need a little time to work out any kinks, and decide which baked goods are the best for them. Overall, I am impressed with Bread+ Butter and think Chef Napoli has another winner on her hands. It is a worthy addition to the North End. I will certainly be back to try more of the menu and it receives my highest recommendation.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The crew at Farmstead, Inc. is shaking up your typical takeout routine with family-style suppers and monthly brunches, complete with all the house-cured meaty, artisan cheesy fare you dig from Farmstead. Weekend happenings include:

Sunday Suppers:
Every Sunday night, excluding May 26 and June 2, from 5pm-10pm
Cost: $29 per person; $39 per person with beverage pairing
Beginning this spring, Matt & Kate Jennings and the Farmstead team share age-old family recipes in a weekly Sunday Supper series. Diners are welcomed for three-course family-style feasts of homespun classics with a Farmstead twist, served communally with an optional beverage pairing (two hand-selected wines from the restaurant’s cellar, one cocktail or a beer-and-shot combo, depending on the menu). The full bistro menu will also be available during Sunday-night dinner starting June 9. Reservations accepted but not required.

Inspired by mom’s greatest hits, upcoming menus include (subject to adjustments):
June 9: Melville Rangoon and "Duck Sauce"
Orange Beef and Broccoli with Steamed Rice
Pineapple Upside-Down Cake with Maraschino Cherry Ice Cream
Singapore Slings
June 16: Fried Pickles with Garlic Ranch
BBQ Ribs, Coleslaw and Mom's Buttermilk Biscuits
Strawberry Rhubarb Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream
Bourbon Slush Punch
June 23rd: Antipasto All'Italiana
Nanny's Spaghetti and Meatballs
Affogato with Biscotti
Nero D'Avola

Monthly Brunches
First Sunday of every month; from 10am-2pm
Round off your weekends Jennings-style with once-a-month Sunday-morning brunches done up the Farmstead way. Midday meals include playful takes on brunch standards featuring monthly changing options like Sweet Pea Waffles with Smoked Salmon, Fried Mortadella & Pancake Sandwiches, Papas Gordas and House-Made Cider Doughnuts. Reservations suggested but not required.

2) It’s the mother of all pop-up dinners this June when Matt Jennings of Providence bistro/artisanal shop Farmstead, Inc. gathers ten of his closest friends – who also happen to be dynamite chefs from Boston, New York and Canada – for the first-ever Northern Alliance Dinner at jm Curley in Boston.

Celebrating the camaraderie, creative collaboration and shared inspiration between US and Canadian chefs, the dinner features a multi-course meal of neo-traditional North American cuisine from ten culinary all-stars. The evening begins with a reception of chef favorites Fernet Branca and Bols Genever soaked up with passed apps, followed by five collaborative courses with beverage pairings.

Proceeds from the Northern Alliance dinner support a favorite charity of the US chefs – the American Farmland Trust – in its mission to support and protect small family farms. A second event later this summer in Montreal will support an organization close to the Canadian chefs’ hearts.

Participating Chefs
Matt Jennings – Farmstead, Inc. (Providence)
April Bloomfield – Spotted Pig, The Breslin, The John Dory Oyster House, Salvation Taco (NYC)
Ken Oringer – Clio, Uni, Toro, Coppa, La Verdad, Earth (Boston)
Jamie Bissonnette – Toro, Coppa (Boston)
Zak Pelaccio – Fish & Game (NYC)
Derek Dammann – Maison Publique (Montreal)
Lee Cooper – L’Abbattoir (Vancouver)
Rob Gentile – Buca, Bar Buca (Toronto)
Matty Matheson – Parts & Labour (Toronto)
Jeremy Charles – Raymonds Restaurant (Newfoundland)

When: Sunday, June 23, 6pm-10pm
Cost: Tickets are $250/person and available at http://www.farmsteadinc.com/shop/things-we-love/northern-alliance-dinner-0

3) Lucia Ristorante Owner Donato Frattaroli and Executive Chef Pino Maffeo introduce the next class in the Lucia Winchester cooking series: Pasta. Guests will learn how to make Mama Lucia's Traditional Italian Lasagna, Pasta al Forno and Maccheroni Chittara. Attendees will learn the secrets of perfect pasta, sauce and pairings. Class will conclude with a family-style dinner.

When: Wednesday, June 5, from 6:30p.m.-9 p.m.
Where: Lucia Ristorante, Winchester, 13 Mt. Vernon St.   Winchester
Cost: The cost is $50 plus $15 materials fee. Classes are held in downstairs kitchen. Students can sign up and pay at host station before class date or pay by credit card by phone. For more information or to book a spot, please call (781) 729-0515.

4) 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar in Salem is launching a new Tuesday Tasting wine series beginning Tuesday, May 28, featuring wine, food and a chance to mingle with friends new and old for only $25 per person. Guests can look forward to (4) unique wines and (4) creations presented by chef Antonio Bettencourt while learning about each wine. “We have a really robust wine program here and many times people are intimidated by a restaurant’s wine list. We wanted to create a unique series so that our guests can experience all that we have to offer in a relaxed, comfortable and most importantly, fun setting,” said Chef Bettencourt.

A great deal for diners, the restaurant has added a fun twist to the series. Unlike typical wine dinners, each Tuesday night tasting has a unique theme meant to overcome some of the pretention associated with wine tastings. In addition to the wine pairings, guests will get a taste of true Italian authenticity as Chef Bettencourt serves up some of his paired spuntini and small plates.

May 28: What’s the 411? This tasting will cover the wine tasting basics- highlighting grape varietals, their characteristics and where they are grown around the world. Terroir- What is it and why should I care?
June 11: Pretty in Pink. At this wine tasting 62 is breaking the stigma of pink wine and setting the new rules for rose. Real men drink pink, too.
July 16: Summertime wines- Grilling reds-wines with low tannin and bright acidity/Picnic whites-keeping it light and bright/Sangria, ole! -using seasonal fruit to spice up your wine
August 20: ABC-- Anything But California – There’s more to U.S. wine than what’s grown in the Golden State. At this tasting guests will explore the other wine U.S. regions including Washington, Oregon, New York and even Massachusetts.
September 17: Italian All-stars - From Piedmont to Tuscany. Exploring some of the most sought after wines from Italy. Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello & Super Tuscan
October 15: American Heavy Hitters Big-boy Cabs and Zins that make you pay attention.

Registration is necessary and can be done by calling 62 at (978) 744-0062

5) The Vermont Cheesemakers’ Festival will return to the shores of Lake Champlain this summer to celebrate Vermont cheeses, artisan foods, craft beers, local wines—and the people who make them. The 5th Annual Vermont Cheesemakers’ Festival will be held on Sunday, July 21 at the Coach Barn at Shelburne Farms in Shelburne, VT from 10am-4pm.

This year’s festival will feature over 200 cheeses from more than 40 cheesemakers, as well as dozens of artisan food producers, and local beer, wine and spirits producers. Tasting, pairing and sampling opportunities will be interspersed with cheesemaking and cooking demonstrations, and workshops throughout the day.

“This year’s “Meet the Cheesemakers” workshop series will be free with the price of admission, and offered on a first come, first serve basis. Murray’s Cheese will share their “Counter Intelligence” with a workshop on affinage and the cave-aging process. The cheesemakers behind Vermont’s well-loved cheddars will present “Cheddar is a Verb,” a workshop devoted to understanding what makes a great cheddar. “Cheese Through the Seasons” will delve into cheese seasonality and the subtle variations that result from the changing Vermont landscape.

Two cooking demonstrations will also be offered free with admission-- “Creative Cheese Boards” with Chef Sean Buchanan of Black River Produce and “Beyond Fondue: Cooking with Cheese” with Chef David Hugo of Shelburne Farms.

Tickets are $50 per person and include full access to all festival events, including workshops, demonstrations, and beer and wine tastings. Tickets are available online at www.vtcheesefest.com or by calling 802-86-FLYNN. The Festival typically sells out well in advance, so early ticket reservations are encouraged.

This cheese fest is always a great time and I highly recommend you check it out. And make sure to get your tickets early as they only sell a limited amount and sell out every year.

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Rant: Boston Restaurants, Follow New York City's Lead

Consider a hypothetical restaurant which, on average, does 150 covers per night. In a week, they will do 1050 covers and in a month, that will total about 31,500 covers. Think of all the many pounds of ingredients that restaurant needs to create all those dishes. The major problem is that approximately 40% of that food will be wasted, discarded as refuse.

Where does all that trash end up? Far too often, it goes to landfills, creating larger and larger mounds of refuse.

Last summer, I ranted that Restaurants Should Cut Portion Sizes to reduce food waste. "It is estimated that over 40% of the food that is produced for consumption ends up as waste. What an incredible statistic which should bother everyone. The EPA states that in 2010, more than 34 million tons of food waste were generated." Food waste is a huge problem and needs to be addressed by everyone, from home owners to restaurants.

The New York Times recently reported that New York City acknowledged the problem of food waste, indicating that 1/3 of their 20,000 tons of daily refuse are from food waste and that restaurants account for 70% of commercial food waste. Over 100 New York City restaurants have stepped up the plate, vowing to "reduce the food waste they send to landfills by 50%" through composting and recycling. Both high end restaurants and chains will be participating, and hopefully other restaurants will join into this pledge as well.

That seems like a great start to an united effort to reduce food waste in New York City. Let us hope that other cities emulate their efforts and I am calling on all Boston restaurants to step up and make a similar pledge, to reduce their food waste by 50% through composting and recycling. I am sure there are some Boston area restaurants which already engage in such practices, such as Taranta in the North End. Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta is dedicated to making his restaurant green and sustainable, and has engaged in many beneficial practices toward that goal, including composting and recycling.

If any Boston restaurant currently practices composting and recycling, please contact me and I will add you to the post, making known your efforts to help reduce food waste. Or feel free to leave a comment on this post telling us all about your practices. If you are not composting and recycling yet, but want to start, please tell me this as well. If you don't want to compost and recycle, please step forward and tell me why you do not wish to do so.

Let us all do our part to reduce the problem of food waste.

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Rant: Destroying A Chef's Reputation?

As I am an attorney (and despite the cliched jokes to the contrary), my ethics are very important to me. I have posted a Blogger Code Of Ethics and written numerous posts about ethical issues. I believe that all bloggers should follow a code of ethics as the power of the "pen" can be too easily abused. For example, negative reviews can adversely affect a business so one must be very careful in how one proceeds. One must be objective and fair, honest and upfront.

Rarely do I have an ethical dilemma as I simply follow my own rules, which have served me well for many years. However, I find myself now entangled in an ethical dilemma which has the power to destroy a person's reputation. I have long been pondering over how to properly handle this matter and have asked others for their opinions as well. I have finally made a decision on a course of action and only hope that what I am doing is right.

Because of my Monday Rants, I was approached by a line cook from a popular, Boston-area restaurant. He wanted to share with me some unsavory information concerning the chef and initially I was reluctant to talk with him about this matter. I had little interest in gossip about chefs, such as who they might be sleeping with or whether they do drugs or not. His information though struck at a more important issue, a deception the chef was perpetuating upon the general public, a lie about the sourcing of some of this restaurant's ingredients.

The restaurant has a reputation for serving primarily local foods, from their produce to their meats. The line cook alleged that the restaurant actually served very little meat that was purchased locally. Most of it came from large scale, out of state farms that cost far less than locally purchased meats. It appears that the chef has a close relative who works with one of those large scale meat suppliers and thus is able to acquire his meats more covertly.

This is an explosive allegation and I certainly would not have given it any credence without clear evidence. I met with the line cook and he had a cell phone video showing an incriminating conversation between the chef and his relative. It was not the best of quality, but the voices were clear enough and seemed to support the allegation. He lacked any further evidence and didn't think he could get anything else.

I was considering dropping the matter but decided I would interview the chef, and try to throw in a few questions about rumors concerning his meat sourcing. I arranged an interview through his PR company and met with the chef later one morning at his restaurant. The interview started off well until I started asking questions about his sourcing. My initial questions were rather innocent, without mentioning any rumors, yet the chef's attitude and demeanor changed. He seemed defensive even though there was no reason to be at that time. When I finally asked about the rumors, he ended the interview, leaving quite angrily.

It seemed to me that there was validity to the line cook's allegations. It seemed clear that the chef was trying to hide something. I did some further digging, identifying the chef's relative and his company. I phoned the relative and let me just say that I obtained verification that he delivered meat to the restaurant. With that verification, I contacted the chef again, though this time directly. I indicated I might be publishing this story and wanted to hear his side.

The call was extremely unpleasant, with lots of profanity and threats from the chef. However, the chef realized that he was in a corner, though refusing to admit guilt, and begged that I would not post the story. If I posted my story, it would probably destroy his reputation though he seemed guilty of the allegations. Should I post it or not?

In the end, the chef indicated that he would be leaving the restaurant within the next week, that he would likely be getting a job in another city. I indicated to him that if he quit and move, then I would not post the story. That deadline has passed though and there is no indication that the chef intends to move on. The chef has also not returned my subsequent phone calls or emails. This post is his final chance to do the right thing, to follow through on our agreement.

If nothing changes this week, then next Monday's Rant will identify the chef and restaurant, providing the evidence I possess. I received much support on both Facebook and Twitter for outing the chef if I possessed sufficient evidence of his deception. My outing will not be without repercussion, but I am willing to take on those consequences to expose this fraud. Once I identify the chef and restaurant, the restaurant owner will have the ability to verify this matter on their own. All they will have to do will be to analyze the invoices for the local meat producers and determine there was an insufficient amount  to have fed all of the restaurant's patrons.

Chef, step up and do the right thing or it will be my obligation to reveal the truth.

UPDATE: 
April Fools!!!
Every year, on April 1, I write an April Fools post, and this year is no different. I have no plans to out any chef, and have not received any info about a chef's deception concerning the source of their meat. With the advent of Social Media, it has become even more difficult to fool anyone because everyone talks about April Fools. Before SM, you could go the entire day without someone mentioning it. Now, you often can't go five minutes before someone mentions it. This post does strike at some very important issues and I appreciate all the thoughtful comments it has engendered. Though it has generated a few hateful comments as well. This is an issue that certainly could arise one day. But this time, it is only an April Fools joke.

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New England Food Show: Some Thoughts

Along side the International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS), there is a smaller trade show, the New England Food Show (NEFS), and I always take some time to check it out, to see what new food & drink items are being showcased. The NEFS seemed more crowded than the IBSS on Sunday and Monday, and it was difficult to pass down the aisles due to the crowds. On Tuesday, it was far easier to navigate the NEFS, to check out the various booths which cater to restaurants, food shops and more.

I found numerous items that had been shown at the NEFS last year and some items which, though tasty, didn't impress me. I only found two items, one food and one drink, which were especially compelling, which I wanted to bring to the attention of my readers.

The Swatt Baking Company, located in New York, produces L.A. Cinnamon Bread, which they prepared with a sweet glaze atop it. I love cinnamon bread and this was an excellent example of such, with plenty of cinnamon flavor, a good texture to the bread, and the glaze added a nice sweetness without stepping over into being cloying. A two pound loaf of bread and a 15 ounce bottle of cinnamon glaze costs $7.95, with discounts for larger quantities. Unfortunately, their website has very little information about the product.

Want a new, tasty local drink that might actually be good for you too? Motto Sparkling Matcha Tea was created by two friends, Tom Olcott and Henry Crosby, and it was launched about seven months ago. This drink is crafted with premium matcha, basically ground green tea, as wellas apple cider vinegar, honey, organic agave, lemon juice, sparkling water and "other natural flavors." A 12 ounce bottle sells for about $3-$4 so it is priced similarly to other high end juices and carbonated drinks. A bottle also contains 70 calories and 16 grams of sugar.

Green tea has a number of health benefits so this drink should provide some of those benefits, though I don't know how much matcha is in this drink or its rough equivalency to a cup of green tea. I may follow up on that matter with the creators. What appealed to me was its taste, which was only lightly sweet and with a prominent green tea taste. I am not a big fan of sweet tea, but the sweetness level here is low so I enjoyed it. It also has a clean and compelling taste which many tea lovers would enjoy.

There was a panel discussion, put on by the Massachusetts Restaurant Association, at the NEFS called Social Chefs: Using Your Followers to Build a Following. This discussion brought together four prominent Boston chefs who shared "some of their tips and tricks for converting virtual followers into regular customers." Though I was unable to attend this discussion on social media, I received some notes on the discussion that I wanted to share. Though much of this information is directed to chefs, everyone will be able to find value in these words in regard to the use of social media.

Chef Jason Santos:
-His phone is always in his pocket so it’s very convenient to be active on social. “I try to make is a part of my day.”
-He doesn’t look at social as a competition. “We’re all friends. I just naturally go into it and use it to engage with my followers.”
-His tactic is to keep it visual. He likes to excite people with what he’s doing. “Pictures add realism.”
-It is important to be active on social. “As chefs we are in charge of shaping the brand.”
-Always create a conversation. “I always end my posts with a question to keep people engaged.”
-He thinks it is important to use hashtags on Twitter

Chef Joanne Chang:
-“It takes all of a minute. I try to engage my following by letting them know what’s going on behind the scenes.”
-She gets ideas from other chefs/ restaurants and finds social educational.
-“I ignore negative feedback. If I can’t do it positively, I just don’t do it at all.”
-“If you view social media as advertising, it will backfire.” Her tactic is to keep things educational and create a buzz.
-Twitter is her favorite social platform because it’s short.
-“My managers are busy engaging with guests, I engage virtually on social platforms.”

Chef Jamie Bissonnette:
-Facebook is like a calendar, uses it to post pictures of events but mostly uses Twitter day to day.
-Engages managers and chefs to post on behalf of restaurants and wants them to be a part of their social voice.
-Social media allows for a new platform to learn about peers worldwide. “We don’t have to travel to France to see what chefs are cooking there. It’s a new way to get to know each other.”
-“It’s all about PMA-Positive Mental Attitude. You have to support everyone and engage in friendly competition.”
-“We have our own voice in this city, we aren’t competing with the food scene in NYC or Chicago.”
-“A chef is a teacher. I teach my employees but I learn from them too. It’s the same with social, it allows us to learn from each other.”
-When asked about negative feedback on social “I look at it as a door to turn the situation around.” Explains that he can reach out to them and listen to their concerns.

Chef Brian Poe:
-Uses Yelp to keep track of customer complaints and fix any reoccurring issues. “If I see continuous comments that a door guy is charging $20 to let people in, that’s something I wouldn’t have found out otherwise.”
-Explains that building a following on social takes time. “Be patient.”
-“The Boston food scene is becoming more serious, we have some of the best chefs, our clientele is becoming more educated.”
-“Twitter is instant and more like a filter, Facebook has staying power.”
-At first his tactic was just to get people to go in and eat. He would use social to see what others were doing. Now he’s “grown-up” and working on his brand.

We can see that each chef views social media in their own way, though there are similarities between some of their positions. Each chef has provided some valuable insight here and it is worthwhile to consider their thoughts in our own use of social media. These are chefs who have been successful in their use of social media so they have the experience and knowledge to help others.

Would any other chefs like to add their thoughts on social media?

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East Cambridge Rib Fest: The Winners

"It's a simple question Doctor, would you eat the moon if it were made of ribs?"
--Will Ferrell

Yes, yes I would. And on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, it seemed as if part of Cambridge was made of ribs too and I certainly ate my way through it. In total, I sampled 20 different ribs, which is a great and tasty way to spend any day. I would have tasted 21 ribs, but unfortunately one restaurant ran out of ribs early.

This past Sunday, the East Cambridge Business Association (ECBA) presented the annual “Smoke This” Rib Fest 2012, pitting the chefs and pit masters of twenty-one restaurants and establishments against each other in a culinary showdown to determine who made the Best Ribs. Chef Tony Maws, of Craigie on Main, Kenji Alt, the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats, and Dave Andelman, of The Phantom Gourmet, were the celebrity judges of this event. There was a second level of judging as well, three local bloggers, including Erica of In and Around Town, William of The Boston Foodie and myself. In addition, the public had an opportunity to vote for their favorite ribs.

The twenty-one participating restaurants and establishments included: Abigails, ARTBAR, Atwoods, Bambara, Catalyst, Champions, CRLS Students, East By Northeast, East Side Bar & Grille, Filarmonica Santo Antonio, Lizzy's, Lord Hobo, Midwest Grill, New Deal Fish Market, Ole Mexican Grill, PF Changs, Portugalia, Redbones, Trina's, Tupelo, and West Bridge.

The event brought out lots of people, and later in the afternoon there were several long lines at some of the more popular tables. At times, the air filled with smoke and ash from all the grills, and when I went home, my shirt even smelled of that smoke. I was pleased that there were numerous tables and chairs set up along the street so you could sit and eat your ribs. Some of the ribs were expectantly messy so trying to eat them while standing up would not be the easiest. I am sure the fest went through tons of napkins, despite plenty of people licking the rib sauce off their fingers.

Unfortunately, no wine was available at the Rib Fest as they chose to concentrate on beer, which was certainly popular, including Pretty Things Beer, Cambridge Brewing Co. and Portico Brewing Co. But a hearty red wine would have pleased me, or even an umami-rich Sake.

There was music by Hayride and The Atwood’s Monday Night Bluegrass Band. Fiddles and banjos adding to the festive atmosphere.

In addition, there were cooking demonstrations, brought by the good people of How2Heroes,

For $3, you could take a spin on the Wheel of Chance and everyone was guaranteed to win a prize. I took a spin and won a $25 gift certificate to the New England Aquarium.

Of course, the main attraction at the fest were the ribs.

When you think of ribs, what first comes to mind? Southern style ribs, such as Kansas City, St. Louis, Memphis, Carolina, Texas and more. Though the definitions can be a bit vague, you can generally separate the styles into two basic schools: wet and dry, dependent on whether the ribs are slathered in a sauce or prepared with a dry rub. The nature of the sauce varies, whether thick, thin, sweet, spicy or a combination of sweet & spicy. In addition, the cut, size of the ribs and which bones are removed makes a difference. We cannot forget Asian style ribs either though, and I mean more than the ordinary spare ribs you find at basic Chinese restaurants. Tea smoked, five spice, Thai style and so much more. At the Rib Fest, you got to experience a myriad of styles and preparations.

The celebrity judges selected Bambara as the First Place winner of the Rib Fest. They also awarded Second Place to Tupelo and Third Place to the Cambridge Rindge & Latin School. The public had some different choices, awarding First Place to East Side Bar & Grill, Second Place to ArtBar and Third Place to Champions Sports Bar. It is very interesting that the celebrity judges and the public did not choose any of the same winners. That shows how tastes can vary significantly.

My own choices for the Top Three Ribs are more in line with the public voting. Before announcing those choices, I want to congratulate all of the entrants for their rib dishes. Judging was not easy because there were plenty of ribs which I enjoyed, each with their own unique attributes. Though I will list my Top Three choices, I will also give a couple Honorable Mentions to other ribs which deserve recognition.

Third Place is awarded to Abigail's Restaurant. This was the toughest Place to decide as there were several worthy candidates. Abigail's ribs were Memphis style, a dry rub, with a Kansas City style sauce. the ribs were tender and meaty, with an excellent melange of spices in the rub. I got a side of their house sauce for dipping and found it also to be delicious, with a spicy backbone. These are the type of ribs that you can easily devour a dozen or more.

Second Place is awarded to East Side Bar & Grill. They certainly looked very professional, with their huge grill, and it is easy to understand why their ribs are so popular with the public. They called their pork ribs "Texaschusetts" style, a blend of a Massachusetts barbecue sauce with Texas spices on the ribs. This is one of those "wow" ribs which should impress most people. Meaty, tender, and grilled perfectly with a great depth of flavor, both sweet and spicy. You'll want to order a complete rack of these ribs to satisfy your inner carnivore.

Drum roll, please.....

First Place is awarded to Champions Sports Bar! These ribs had a Kansas City dry rub, were cooked over apple, hickory and cherry woods, and had a glaze that included apples and brown sugar. The moist, tender meat slid off the bone and the taste impressed with its complexity and melange of compelling flavors, both sweet and spicy. The sauce accented the ribs without overwhelming it. This was another clear "wow" dish and I was tempted to remain at their table and devour several more of these ribs. Kudos for such amazing ribs!

I want to give Honorable Mention to the New Deal Fish Market for their incredible barbecue sauce. Their southwest style ribs were generously slathered with an Italian chestnut honey-based sauce. This umami-rich, earthy sauce possessed an intriguing flavor. I recently got to taste some chestnut honey and loved its earthiness, and believe it worked great in this sauce.

I also want to give Honorable Mention to the ArtBar. Their Spiced Lemon Confit Marinade Baby Back Ribs had one of the best presentations, with greens and focaccia bread. It also possessed one of the most subtle and unique flavors of all the ribs. After the big, bold flavors of many of the ribs, these were certainly a major change. ArtBar also offered a free taste of a new soda their bartender, Elizabeth, created: a combination of pomegranate juice, lime and black pepper. Such a bold, peppery flavor with nice fruity undertones.

Congratulations to all the winners! I can't wait for next year's Rib Fest.

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Culinary Creativity: Chef Matt Louis

Chef Matt Louis, Chef/Owner of Moxy in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, is a native of NH and graduated from the Culinary Institute of America. Matt worked under Chef Thomas Keller at The French Laundry and also headed with the team to open Per Se in New York City. Of this experience, Matt says, “Every day was an education, and I didn’t want to miss any of it. Working for arguably the most influential American born chef in history was an amazing experience.” Matt eventually left NYC and became a culinary instructor at Southern New Hampshire University, later working at Wentworth by the Sea Hotel and Spa. It was then that he met Portsmouth-area restaurateur Jay McSharry and the two discussed the idea of opening a restaurant in Portsmouth.

Prior to opening Moxy, Matt embarked on a series of stages at top restaurants including Noma, Momofuku KO, Torrisi, and Eleven Madison. At Moxy, Matt brings together his appreciation for and commitment to local product, and a desire to make it fun and approachable with food and service at the highest level of quality. Matt says, “Modern American tapas just means really great locally sourced food meant for sharing." I was very impressed with Moxy, with its chef, philosophy, drinks program and food,  and you can check out my rave review. As I have said before, it is well worth the drive to Portsmouth and I look forward to my next trip up north.

(Check out my Introduction to the Culinary Creativity series.)

Now onto the interview--

How important is culinary creativity to you? Why is it important?
Every dish we do has a purpose, we never just have a dish hit the menu without a reason. Creativity comes in many forms, but for me, it is more about finding purpose, identity and reason...then making sure everything follows that common thread with your own voice.

What are your most significant inspirations for your culinary creativity? What makes those matters so inspiring?
Inspirations come from everywhere...most important and significant are ones I have seen at Torrisi in NYC as well as David Chang's restaurants...not so much what they were doing in terms of actual dishes...but that they had foudn their voice, found their purpose and stick to it.

Where do you get your ideas for new recipes/dishes?
Our dishes come from 3 sources: 1) history and culture of our area 2) our own twists on iconic tapas dishes 3) what the local farmers are growing. Everything fits into at least one of these categories, if not more than one.

What is your process of creating a new recipe or dish?
Start with one of the above 3 listed criteria and let it evolve into something that makes sense for our restaurant...it could be an ingredient that has become available, or a historical or cultural significant dish that we than evolve into our own.

Do other members of your staff assist with creating ideas for new recipes/dishes?
Constant, and always.

How do you test new recipes/dishes?
Some we do tests, other we just go with....really depends on the nature of that specific dish.

What is the most difficult part of culinary creativity?
You must be highly organized in your operation to allow the time needed to really think, this, coupled with the balance of also trying to maintain a viable business at the same time is the biggest balancing act.

Do you ever experience "writer's block," an inability to be creative, and if so, how do you deal with it? 
It is difficult to continue to push the mental part of what we do when we are really deep in the day to day...it almost has to happen away from the day to day operation...too much going on, too many distractions, and too much to tend to.

Relate an unusual or interesting anecdote about the creation of one of your dishes. 
Hmmm....the fact that we serve burgers...I had no intention on opening a restaurant that serves burgers. However, when the identity became clear that this was going to be a modern American tapas restaurant and all items would stem from that...a huge part of tapas menu is bocadillos (small sandwiches)...traditionally Spanish in approach, we needed to look at how to make this American...the most iconic American sandwich...the burger. We had no choice. We did not want to jump on the "slider" bandwagon, nor did we simply want to serve a burger to please the masses...but when looked at it from the way we got there...it had to happen. I wish the whole "slider" thing never happened...we would have still come to the same conclusion about serving our mini burgers regardless, because it made sense with the thought process of how we got there...it just also happened to be one of the most overplayed items in restaurants...but again, we had no choice, the identity, concept, and reason told us we had to.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1) From Wednesday, October 31 to Sunday, November 4, the Olé Restaurant Group will celebrate all things mole with a special “Mole Menu.” Mole is a sauce that is a staple of Mexican cuisine and a culinary symbol of the country’s “mestizaje,” or mixed heritage, due to the types of ingredients it contains and the legends surrounding its origin. Moles come in various flavors and can contain up to 30 individual ingredients, with chile peppers as the most common component.

The “Mole Menu,” available at Olé Mexican Grill in Cambridge, MA and Zόcalo Back Bay, located in Boston, will feature four distinct incarnations of the sauce: mole negro, mole coloradito, mole mancha manteles and mole verde oaxaqueño. Mole negro is called the “king of mole” for its complexity. It is seasoned with indigenous Mexican ingredients like guajillo chiles, Mexican oregano and marjoram, and will be paired with turkey. Originally from Oaxaca, mole coloradito, made with cloves, oregano, peppercorns, canela and an inconspicuous combination of spices will be paired with beef. Mole mancha manteles, literally named “tablecloth stainer” because of its deep red color, will be served with lamb shank. Originally from Puebla, this fruity mole combines sweet notes with spice for a captivating contrast. Or, for those looking for a vegetarian option, mole verde oaxaqueño, made with Mexican herbs like hoja santa and epazote and served with vegetables, is one of the best known moles and a truly soulful food.

Mole Week Menu (Each entrée is served with Mexican rice and black beans.)
Mole Negro with Turkey, $20
Mole Coloradito with Beef, $22
Mole Mancha Manteles with Lamb Shank, $24
Mole Verde Oaxaqueño with Vegetables, $18

The “Mole Menu” will be served in conjunction with the regular menu. Reservations are recommended. Please call Olé Mexican Grill at (617)-492-4495 or Zócalo Back Bay at (617)-456-7849.

2)  When sourcing locally, salt is not always considered. But Harvest's Executive Pastry Chef Brian Mercury can personally guarantee the sea salt, a key ingredient in his desserts, is indeed local and fresh. Armed with a bucket and waders, he regularly walks into the cold waters of the Maine Atlantic to collect sea water that will ultimately yield what he refers to as "white gold". "I really do believe in the sourcing of our ingredients, and figured I could do my part and collect my own sea salt" explains Mercury. He has even found the sea salt actually tastes different from beach to beach.

To make his own sea salt, Mercury first travels to the shores of Maine and wades into the ocean collecting ten gallons of icy Atlantic sea water. Then he returns home to start the salt making process. The water is poured into stainless steel pots where it is boiled for hours until the water gradually boils off, first producing a thick cloudy mixture, then a paste and finally the beautiful end product emerges, clear crystals of sea salt. Mercury estimates he gets five cups of salt from ten gallons of sea water.

One of Mercury's favorite desserts to highlight his home-made sea salt is the Taza Chocolate Crèmeux. He adds his sea salt to both the caramel center and the caramel puffed barley of the dessert. The caramel puff is then covered in a malted milk chocolate sauce and topped with vanilla mascarpone. Mercury says the brininess of the salt is the perfect contrast to the sweetness of the chocolate and caramel.

Certainly an intriguing story of a pastry chef taking it to the next level.

3) Spooked by the prospect of navigating the complicated waters of sustainable seafood? The source of the fish on the plate is often as much of a mystery as what’s hiding around the next corner in a haunted house, and attempting to discover either can seem a daunting task. 

So to celebrate the spirit of Halloween, The Beehive, located in Boston’s South End and the New England Aquarium are confronting these ominous subjects with a Night Before Halloween Sustainable Seafood Dinner on Tuesday, October 30. Served alongside The Beehive’s regular menu, the four course, prix-fixe menu was designed by Executive Chef Rebecca Newell and the experts at the New England Aquarium as a way to raise awareness of the challenges facing the oceans as well as the benefits of sustainable seafood.

So while All Hallows Eve may cause a fright, guests will not have to fret over the environmental friendliness of their meals because all four intriguing and satisfying courses feature sustainably harvested seafood. Dinner reservations are available anytime between 5:30pm-11pm and there will be live jazz music from 8pm-12am, and libations served from 5pm-1am.

Menu
--Bloody Mary Soup (Shrimp & pickled vegetables)
--Deviled Crab Cake (Chopped salad & sea urchin vinaigrette)
--Scallops (Black squid ink pasta & “rest in” peas)
--Blackened Boo Wahoo (Wild rice, pumpkin & spinach)

Cost is $65 per person, $55 for NE Aquarium members. For reservations, call 617-423-0069.

4) Tripe! It sounds disgusting as it is essentially part of an animal's stomach, usually cow. If you see it at a market, it looks almost like a honeycombed sponge. Many people won't eat it, though it is hard to say how many of those people have actually tasted tripe. It is much more popular in Europe, and a number of Italian restaurants in the U.S. serve tripe. I admit never being much of a fan of tripe, having tasted some rather rubbery versions in the past. Despite that, I had not given up in finding a tripe dish that might appeal to me.

When Pizzeria Posto created its new small plates menu, one of the new dishes was Trippa all’Amatriciana ($5), with spicy pomodoro, guanciale, parmesan, cracked black pepper and topped by two thick slices of grilled bread. The other night, I stopped by for dinner and decided to take a chance and order the Trippa. I was not disappointed in the least. The tripe was tender and flavorful, and looked quite appealing as well. You wouldn't even know it was tripe based on what you see at the supermarket. Chef Joe Cassinelli has created a tripe dish that basically anyone will enjoy. I would certainly order it again, and share it with others.

On Twitter the other night, Chef Cassinelli even stated that if someone orders the Trippa, and doesn't like it, he will take it off your check. So you have nothing to lose, and everything to gain by tasting the Trippa. Forget your preconceptions and take a chance on the Trippa all'Amatriciana.

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Cakes for Occasions: Cocktail Cupcakes

You either have to be confident or crazy to invite me to your bakery to taste your cupcakes.

I have often ranted about the over saturation of cupcake stores, hoping for some other dessert to take the spotlight. I have complained about the large number of places that sell dry cupcakes with thick, overly sweet frosting. I have high standards and have found many popular cupcake stores to be lacking. Inviting me to check out your cupcakes is a risky endeavor.

Last week, a bakery stepped up to the plate. I was invited to check out Cupcakes After 5, "shot-size mini cupcakes inspired by classic cocktails and infused with alcohol," which are created by Cakes for Occasions in Danvers. A cupcake cocktail? Yes, I was intrigued so decided to check them out and put them to the test. I also wanted to determine whether they were confident or crazy.

Cakes for Occasions, which has been around for over 10 years, is a "nut-free, boutique-style gourmet cake and pastry shop" and their main business seems to be cake design. The owner is Kelly Delaney who was educated at the Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland and the Cordon Bleu in London. She began her business using a single oven in her mother's home and now employs almost 30 people and produces over 700 wedding cakes each year. Throughout the years, Kelly has received many accolades, both local and national, and currently ships her products throughout the continental U.S.

The Danvers location is fairly large and festively decorated with lots of bright colors, balloons, and party supplies. There are several glass cases of various cakes, pastries and baked goods, presenting many enticing choices. In the back, there is a large kitchen area where you can watch some of the pastry chefs preparing cakes and other delights.

Mini-Whoopie Pies! I was certainly pleased to see these in the case. They come in a variety of flavors and at only $1.25 each, I think they are fairly priced as well. I got to try a couple and they were very good, with a creamy filling and moist chocolate cake, the type of whoopie pie sure to please any dessert lover.

Some cakes, in various sizes, that were ready to be bought, from Opera Cakes to Strawberry Short Cake.

The Big Cupcake Cake, available in chocolate, vanilla or marble.

A New England Patriots helmet cake that was being created while I was at the bakery.

Some of the other enticing pastries, including European pastries and tarts, that can be found here.

Some of the pastry chefs hard at work in creating cakes and other pastries. You can watch them while you decide what pastries you want to purchase.

They produce a wide range of cupcakes, generally priced $2.25 to $2.95 each, which is better pricing than many of the gourmet cupcake stores that are charging over $3 for their cupcakes. For the political campaign season, you can see above the Elephant (Republicans) and Donkey (Democrats) cupcakes.

I was there for a special cupcake, the Cupcakes After 5, and General Manager Jennifer Brennan answered my questions about these new cupcakes. At a networking event, the owner Kelly spoke to some people from Patron Tequila, and the idea was tossed out of using tequila in desserts. This planted the seed of an idea, and they were inspired to create a more adult cupcake using various alcohols. As their bridal coordinator is also a bartender, they certainly did not lack for ideas.

The cupcakes come in two ways, as a mini-cupcake or in a plastic "shot glass." The shot glass idea is aesthetically very cool looking, but you really need a fork to eat it. The mini cupcake requires no utensils, just peel off the wrapper and eat. So you can either go for fancy or practical, dependent on your desires. The fancy might be more appropriate for a party or when you want to impress. The cupcakes come in at least 8 flavors, and they have plans to add more, including some seasonal ones. Each cupcake is essentially intended to replicate the flavors of a cocktail or alcohol, from the Kahlua Mudslide to the Mimosa.

I tasted 7 of the flavors, pictured above, which included Rum & Coke, Sam Adams Cream Stout, Champagne & Strawberries, Mimosa, Caramel Appletini, Bailey's Irish Cream, and Key Lime Mojito. For me, the taste test was a two step process, to assess them first as a cupcake and then to assess the effect of the alcohol.

All of the cupcakes passed the first test with flying colors. They were all properly moist and the frosting was light and creamy. They did not possess either of the usual two flaws. Each cupcake was very flavorful, representing the basic flavor profile of the cocktail they were trying to emulate. Frankly, they were some of the tastiest cupcakes I have had in quite a while. So, my invite to check out their cupcakes was definitely confidence on their part.  

Now on to the second test. Baking with alcohol is not an easy task, especially as you generally want a proper balance. You want to be able to taste the alcohol but you don't want it to overwhelm. You don't want too little or too much. As these cocktail cupcakes are still a new product at the bakery, they are still working on attaining that balance with all of their cupcakes.

Of the seven cupcakes I tasted, three succeeded in achieving that right balance: Rum & Coke, Sam Adams Cream Stout, and the Bailey's Irish Cream. The Rum & Coke, a vanilla cupcake soaked with Rum, topped with Coca Cola buttercream and garnished with a sugar line candy, was my favorite of the seven. Great flavors, well balanced, and addictive. The Bailey's Irish Cream, a chocolate cupcake soaked with Bailey's, filled with chocolate ganache and topped with Bailey's white chocolate buttercream, was a close second.

The other four cupcakes did not possess enough alcohol flavor, which could be due to the nature of the alcohol used. For example, the Champagne & Strawberries had delicious strawberry flavors but you really couldn't detect the Champagne. I enjoyed the taste of the Caramel Appletini, an apple cupcake soaked with vodka, filled with caramel and topped with a caramel-vodka buttercream, but the vodka didn't really come out. The lighter flavored liquors, such as vodka or sparkling wine, may not show as well in such an arena. Or maybe more needs to be added. You might instead need stronger flavored drinks, like Port or Zinfandel, to show well in cupcakes. A Port & chocolate cupcake? Port & blue cheese cupcake?

I intend to return to the bakery, to check out more of their pastries. Their cupcakes receive my recommendation, though I think they still need to work on the balance of some of their cocktail cupcakes. They mentioned that parents, picking up a child's birthday cake, may pick up some of the cocktail cupcakes for the adults at the birthday party, which sounds like an excellent idea.

Have you tasted these cocktails cupcakes? If so, what were your thoughts?

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