Enjoying Portuguese Wines at Meritage

As I have said repeatedly, Portugal has some of the best wine values in the world. I recommend their wines all the time, and those who take a chance on those wines usually love them. At a recent luncheon held at Meritage, Chef Daniel Bruce's wine-centric restaurant at the Boston Harbor Hotel, I found even more value Portuguese wines, including a killer dessert wine at an unbelievable price. If Portugal is not on your wine radar, then you are depriving yourself of some delicious, value wines.

The luncheon was put on by Full Circle Wine Solutions and Master Sommelier Keith Goldston discussed the wines we tasted, as well as Portuguese wines in general, during the course of the afternoon. Keith mentioned that the greatest strengths of Portuguese wines are their diversity, acidity, earthiness and the fact that they pair very well with food. I would essentially agree with him on these points, though I would add that they often are excellent values too.

For Keith, the biggest problem for Portugal is the lack of organized distribution. They do not have a plan for U.S. distribution, and often rely on friends or happenstance to find an importer. Instead, they need to made a concerted effort to target the best potential markets, to make more of their wines available where they best would be appreciated.

Keith also provided us some of his generalizations about the different grapes and wine regions of Portugal. He feels that the wines of Castelao are similar to Merlot and Zweigelt style, easy drinking, middle of the road wines. The wines of Lisboa are more easy drinking while the those of Alentejo are more modern, with strong oak use. The wines of the Dao are more similar to the wines of northern Rhone or Burgundy while the Douro wines are more similar to those of Priorat. As an interesting aside, he also mentioned how people in Portugal often omit the last syllable of many words. For example, they pronounce "Vinho Verde" as "Vinho Verd."

The luncheon began with a brief reception, a glass of the 2012 Adega Cooperativa de Ponte de Lima Colheita Loureiro Seleccionada, Vinho Verde ($8). This wine was made from the Loureiro grape and presents with a crisp, clean citrus taste and a bit of frizzante. Lemon is most predominant on the palate and it makes for an excellent summer wine, especially at this price. It is refreshing, an easy drinker not a complex thinker.

Keith stated that the Portuguese generally don't respect their white wines, and don't drink them much either. He also indicated that in the Vinho Verde region, about 40% of their production is for red Vinho Verde, which is a rarity locally. The red version is inky dark, tannic and is very tart and sour on the palate, like a sour Japanese plum. Rosé Vinho Verde is also produced and I have seen a couple locally over the years. I want to find a red Vinho Verde though.

Our first course was a Pan Roasted Line Caught Cod Loin with black olive tapenade and zucchini olive oil puree. A fine piece of flaky white fish, I actually enjoyed the puree too, though I am not usually a zucchini lover. The puree complemented the fish, adding some more subtle flavors.

With this course, we tasted three more Portuguese whites, and my clear favorite was the 2011 Quinta da Romeira Arinto, Lisboa ($11). Made from 100% Arinto and matured for a month on the lees, this is another superb value. It has a more subtle citrus aroma with a complex melange of flavors, lemon, apple, orange peel, minerality, and subtle herbs on the finish. It was crisp and dry, clean and fresh, with plenty of character. An excellent food wine, I recommend stocking up on this wine for the summer, and keeping some aside for the rest of the year too.

The second course was Char Seared Yellow Fin Tuna with wild mushrooms, fresh garbanzos, melted leeks and a red wine butter. Silky tuna with a compelling and light butter sauce, it was a good choice for our first round of red wines.

Of this flight, I had two favorites. The 2008 Quinta de Lemos 'Dona Georgina', Dão ($45) currently does not have an importer into the U.S. It is a blend of 80% Touriga Nacional and 20% Tinta Roriz and spends about 18 months aging in French oak. It has a dark red color with an alluring nose that beckons to you for a taste. On the palate, it is a full bodied wine, with moderate tannins, and a meaty taste, with ripe plum and blackberry flavors, accented by subtle spice notes. Complex and with a lengthy, pleasing finish, it is a high quality Portuguese wine.

The 2010 Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas, Barraida ($25) is made from the Baga grape, which often can be overly tannic. Not the case with this wine, which was aged in used oak for about 12 months. With a medium red color and a deep fruity aroma, the wine offers an intriguing and complex palate of red and black fruits, herbs and mild spice. It is a wine that best goes with meaty dishes, though the tannins are well integrated. Would be excellent this summer with grilled meats.

Our final savory course, my favorite of the lunch, was a Tomato Braised Kurobata Pork Belly with white beans, spinach and sundried tomatoes. Melt in your mouth tender, the flavorful and meaty pork belly was fantastic, and another excellent accompaniment to the red wines to come.

Two of the three wines in this flight impressed me. My favorite red wine of the luncheon was the 2009 Mouchao 'Dom Rafael' Tinto, Alentejo ($14), a blend of 40% Alicante Bouschet, 40% Trincadeira and 20% Aragonez. The grapes are trod by foot and the wines is aged in large oak barrels for about 24 months, with an additional 6 months in the bottle. Dark red, this wine had an exotic and exciting palate of black fruits, earthiness, and spice. Moderate tannins, a lengthy finish and plenty of character. An excellent value and highly recommended. You are probably going to see this wine on my end of the year Favorites list.

The 2010 Sogevinus 'Veedha', Douro ($12), made from a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz, is another very good value. Fruit forward, it still possess some depth with underlying spice and chocolate notes. A good choice for pizza, burgers, or BBQ.

For dessert, we enjoyed a Mini White Peach & Ginger Pie, with nice, tender peach pieces topped by a crumbly topping with mild ginger notes.

We enjoyed a killer dessert wine with this course, the 2005 Bacalhoa Moscatel de Setubal, Peninsula de Setubal ($12/750ml). Made from 100% Moscatel de Setubal, this is a fortified wine with a 17.5% alcohol content that was aged for three years in small, used oak barrels. A rich, golden amber in color, the nose was compelling, and on the palate I found notes of apricot, dried fruit, honey, and herbs. A well balanced wine, the acidity ensured the sweetness was under control and its full-bodied flavors lingered long on the finish. Plenty of complexity and depth at this low price point make this an amazing value. Highly recommended.

Get on the Portuguese wine wagon now!

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Fladgate Partnership Declares 2011 Vintage Port

"Port is the oil of good conversation."
--Adrian Bridge

Last month, I spoke with Adrian Bridge, the CEO of the Fladgate Partnership, which comprises the three major Port houses of Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft. During that conversation, he indicated that the decision whether to declare 2011 a Vintage or not had not yet been made but there was optimism that it would be. If it was declared, he was also unsure how much Vintage Port might be produced, though he suspected it would be a smaller amount than previous vintages.

Other Port Houses have already declared a Vintage for 2011, including Sogrape Vinhos (Ferreira, Offley and Sandeman) and Symington Family (Cockburn's, Dow's, Graham's, Warre's, Quinta do Vesuvio and Smith Woodhouse). For specific information on what led to such an excellent vintage for Port in 2011, check out the Vintage Port Site.

Fladgate Partnership has also now declared 2011 a Vintage Port year for Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft. They knew that the 2011 harvest was exceptional, but a declaration only came after they evaluated the final blends. "The blends from the three houses were carefully assessed over several weeks for quality, potential longevity and consistency of house style."

Adrian Bridge stated, "2011 has produced textbook Vintage Ports, classics in every sense.” The wines have a wonderful purity and elegance, but also plenty of structure and depth of flavor.” The Head Winemaker David Guimaraens also noted, “2011 was an excellent ripening season and produced a well-balanced crop. The 2011s stand out for the purity of the fruit and the quality of the tannins, which are silky and well integrated, but provide plenty of structure.”

This is the fifth great vintage in the past 12 years, which include 2000, 2003, 2007 and 2009. Bridge commented that, “Our 2009 declaration showed that demand remains strong for new release Vintage Ports, and we expect it to grow further as new fine wine markets develop. Wine consumers all over the world are realizing that Vintage Port continues to deliver astonishing value compared to many other classic wines.”

It is true that Vintage Port can be comparatively much less expensive than other great wines, from Bordeaux to Burgundy. Only about 2% of all Port is Vintage Port, and it is commonly said that a Vintage Port needs at least ten years of aging before it is optimally ready to drink. Some Vintage Ports can be drank earlier, but they all benefit from some aging. So be patient with your Vintage Port.

Which 2011 Ports will be available from the Fladgate partnership? First, they will produce a limited number of large formats, from all three houses, which will include double magnums and imperials. Second, the 2011 Vintage Ports from all three houses will be available later this year. Third, there will be a limited release of the 2011 Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port. The grapes for this special wine are selected from old vines on two terraced plots, Polverinho and Renova do Armazém, which are classified as World Heritage sites.  For more information on the Fladgate Partnership 2011 Vintage Ports, check out their website.

Will you be purchasing any 2011 Vintage Ports? If so, which producers? Do you usually purchase Vintage Port?

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Adrian Bridge, Fladgate & How Port Facilitates Conversation

"Port is the oil of good conversation."
--Adrian Bridge

After dinner, when people wish to relax and mellow out, is probably the most common time for Port to be enjoyed. Once it might have been just a group of men, ensconced in a library or study, smoking cigars and drinking Port while they discussed world events, as well as more personal matters. That probably still happens in some places however the general nature of Port consumers has changed, and both men and women now enjoy a glass of Port.

Sipping Port often accompanies good conversation, maybe a bit less inhibited than what would have occurred earlier at dinner. People might fear to discuss topics such as politics and sex over their apertifs, but at the end of the night, with a strong glass of Port, the walls start dropping. Few topics remain taboo and people are more apt to let their hair down, to be more willing to discuss anything. In that respect, it reminds me of an ancient Greek symposium.

Adrian Bridge, the CEO of the Fladgate Partnership, is one of the most important men in the Port industry and he was in Boston last week. I had the opportunity to dine with him and sip some Ports at The Top of the Hub. It was an enjoyable and informative evening, providing a glimpse into the Port industry as well as a deeper understanding of the man himself.

Adrian was born in Belleville, Ontario in 1963 and twenty years later, in 1983, he was commissioned into the 1st Queen’s Dragoon Guards. After serving in the military for five years, he took a much quieter position at an investment bank. However, in 1994, his career would take another drastic change, and he would embrace the world of Port.

Back in 1982, Adrian met his wife, Natasha, who is the daughter of Alistair Robertson, the owner and chairman of the Fladgate Partnership. Eventually, in 1994, Alistair asked Adrian to enter the family business so Natasha and he moved to Portugal. In 2000, Adrian became the Managing Director of the Taylor Fonseca Port Group which soon grew with the purchase of Croft Port and Delaforce Port in 2001. The company became reorganized as the Fladgate Partnership, with Adrian as its CEO. Natasha also plays a significant role in the company as the Chief Blender.

Adrian is not resting on his laurels and seems perpetually busy with new endeavors. For example, he created a new style of Port, Croft Pink, and other producers have since followed suit, producing their own pink Ports. In 2010, he opened a new luxury hotel, The Yeatman, which has already earned numerous awards for everything from their wine cellar to their spa. The photos on their website show an absolutely gorgeous hotel and the amenities include a Michelin star restaurant, a huge wine cellar concentrating on Portuguese wines, a compelling spa, and much more.

Their wine cellar includes over 1100 different Portuguese wines and I have reviewed their 2012 Winter Wine Edition, a list of 82 Portuguese wines that are available by the glass, priced from 5-100 Euros. Not many places have that many wines available by the glass. It is a fascinating list, broken down into interesting categories such as "The Groundbreakers" and "The Irreverants." Sparkling wines, Whites, Reds, Rosé, Port, Madeira, and Dessert wines. It is also cool that the hotel does not sell only Fladgate Partnership Ports, but also sells their competitors' Ports.

Though it might seem Adrian is a workaholic, he makes time to engage in one of his other passions, mountain climbing. That is a challenging pastime, and Adrian often brings Port with him to enjoy once he reaches the summit. He has even climbed a mountain in Antarctica, toasting the completion with Port, though his biggest worry had been the extreme cold freezing the Port so he needed to boost the alcohol so it could survive the harsh conditions.

In the U.S., the Fladgate Partnership dominates the Port market, accounting for about 28% of Port sales. Their Port shipments to the U.S. rose 11% in 2011 and partial numbers for 2012, through August, indicate another 5% increase. Aged Tawny Ports have seen very strong growth, especially to restaurants, as they seem to be an easier sell to patrons rather than Vintage Port. Port sales to restaurant have generally remained steady each month, indicating little seasonal variation. However, Port remains a niche beverage, one which many more people need to drink and explore.

Though overall, the Port industry has seen some numerical decreases, they have largely affected only the cheap, bulk Ports. The amount of quality Port has actually been increasing, though Adrian believes the Port business could still survive even without Vintage Port. While high quality vintage Bordeaux and Burgundy is made every year, Fladgate only produces Vintage Port approximately three times a decade. It is the fine wine collectors, those who collect Bordeaux and Burgundy, who purchase much of the Vintage Port as they are the ones willing to lay down their wines for years. In addition, the amount of Vintage Port is minuscule when you compare it to the amount of high-end Bordeaux and Burgundy that is produced.

Adrian especially noted a significant difference between Bordeaux/Burgundy and Port, summing up his position as "No fruit, no wine." Good Port, even Vintage, should still present a strong fruit component even when it is young. Sometimes though, when you have a young Bordeaux or Burgundy, those which are intended to be aged for a long time, they present very little, if any fruit. You are told you must wait to drink them, that they must be properly aged before they are drinkable. Adrian does not agree that is the way wine should be. All such wines should still present fruit, even at a young age.

What differentiates Fladgate Partnerhship Ports from other Port companies? There are a few different reasons and they can be significant. First, there is a different mindset at Fladgate, where they desire to produce Vintage Port from every grape. Thus, there is a careful attention to detail, a concern to treat each vineyard as if it were special. Some other companies view certain vineyards and grapes as only for their cheap, low quality Ports. And that may very well be reflected in how they treat such matters, never seeking to better the grapes, vineyards and Port.

Second, only about 1% of Port production is still done using the traditional practice of foot treading grapes in stone lagares. Of that 1%, about 60% of it is done by the Fladgate companies, and about 20% of their total production uses foot treading. All of their Vintage Port, about 5000 cases, is produced with foot treading. As they foot tread around 20,000 cases in total, some of that will end up in their nonvintage Ports.

They conduct the foot treading in six different ways, despite the fact it is very labor intensive and more costly.   Tests were conducted with mechanical treaders but they ultimately determined that foot treading worked best. They do not fully understand the reasons why foot treading works so well, and if they did, maybe they could replicate it. As long as it produces superior quality Port, they will continue this practice.

Third, an important element, often overlooked, in the production of port is the neutral spirit used to fortify it. Consider that 20% of a Port bottle consists of that spirit so it is obviously a significant factor. If you use cheap spirits in your Port, the quality of the Port can degrade with time, and sometimes quickly. Fladgate now acquires their spirit from a company in Bordeaux, a high quality and expensive spirit, but which they feel is essential for the quality of their Ports. Any item is only as good as the quality of its essential ingredients so that using a high quality spirit is warranted.

One of the biggest current challenges for Port producers has to do with spirits. Back in 2008, the European Union passed wine reforms which led to the phasing out of distillation subsidies. About 200,000 hectares of vineyards were pulled up in response. Without the subsidies, there has been a shortage of these neutral spirits and subsequently the cost has increased, and now may be close to 4 Euros per liter. Who will then pay for those increased costs?  It would be tough to place that cost on the shoulders of consumers, especially for the cheaper Ports. The higher end Ports are more capable of increasing prices without a significant reaction from consumers. Adrian seems hopeful that the shortage will peak in 2013, topping out the price increases.

As many wine regions seem to be concerned about climate change, I asked Adrian about how it affected Fladgate, if at all. Adrian doesn't believe it has much impact in Portugal, especially as Portugal is already a hot region. If anything, climate change might cause the weather to be a bit more unpredictable. Fladgate has not instituted any specific changes to their usual practices in response to concerns about climate change.

Their irrigation issues have more to do with cost than climate change. He explained that the Douro is actually a series of lakes and not a river. Runoff accumulates in these lakes so it is imperative to use less chemicals in the vineyards, so as to not pollute the lakes. In addition, all of those chemicals are expensive, another good reason not to use them. Adrian hopes to convince other producers to use less chemicals as well, though he wants to lead by example rather than just preach to his colleagues and competitors.

What does Fladgate plan for the future? Adrian indicated that they have no current plans to produce Douro table wines unlike many of their competitors. As they still see growth in high quality Port, they feel their efforts are best directed to continue producing great Port. He wouldn't rule out the possibility that could change one day, but it won't occur in the near future. They are continuing to develop new markets, such as in places like South Africa and parts of South America. On a smaller note, they have opened a new wine store and began creating wine clubs. Growth is coming in many different aspects of their business. In addition, as the Port industry consolidates, there is the possibility Fladgate could acquire more Port companies.

A question on the mind of many Port lovers is whether Fladgate will declare 2011 to be a Vintage or not. That decision has not yet been made though there is some optimism that it will be declared as a Vintage. Even if so, it is unsure how much Vintage Port would be produced, and it is likely to be a smaller amount than previous vintages.

On a more personal level, I asked Adrian about his usual Port consumption at home. Though he does not drink Port every evening, it is a regular element of his life and the most common Port he drinks at home is the Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. That is certainly an excellent choice, one that would appeal to many Port lovers, and would probably convince many others to start enjoying Port. When Adrian holds parties at his home, he breaks out the Vintage Port, usually something from the 1960s or 1970s. So how do you get on his invite list?

After dinner, we tasted through five Ports, including three 2009 Vintage Ports (Croft, Fonseca & Taylor Fladgate), a 2007 Taylor Fladgate LBV and a Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. The 2009 Vintage Ports were fascinating, as each was noticeably different. The Croft was bright and fruity while the Taylor was a bit more closed, though still with subdued fruit notes. The Fonseca impressed, a nice balance of fruit and spice, with a complex and seductive character. These are capable of being enjoyed now, though you might derive even greater pleasure after these have been allowed to age for a time. The 2007 LBV was pleasant, fresh and smooth, with tasty fruit. However, the winner was easily the 20 Year Old, a sublime Port which I have enjoyed greatly on prior occasions.

Grab a bottle of Port, gather together some friends and enjoy the conversation that flows.

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Boston Wine Expo: From Portuguese Pleasures to Jerky

A couple hundred wineries, from over 15 different countries, presenting over 1000 wines. Yes, the Boston Wine Expo was recently in town, a huge event allowing consumers and the trade to experience both wines on the market and wines which hope to be distributed within Massachusetts. I attended once again, primarily during the trade hours, when it is a bit quieter and I can better taste a variety of wines and speak with the winemakers, distributors and other representatives.

It seemed to me that there were less wines at the Expo this year, or at least it seemed that way as there was more open space. There was certainly a large selection of wines, more than anyone can taste in a single weekend, but the aisles did not seem as crowded, which was a good thing. As usual, there was a good selection of non-wine vendors, with plenty of free food samples, which helped cleanse the palate between tastings.

Though the Expo program guide contains a map of the exhibit hall, so you can better locate the wines you seek, it would have been beneficial if that map was available prior to the Expo. With such a map, attendees could better pre-plan their exploration of the Expo. In addition, I would have liked a bit more diversity in the wine selections, to see more countries represented, or more lesser known regions from countries that did attend. For example, let us see more Sake and Sherry, more Israeli and Lebanese wines. Local wines also seemed underrepresented this year, though they had made a good presence at last year's Expo.

Much of my tasting this year concentrated on Portugal and Italy, with a number of stops at a selected few other areas. Overall, the wines that I tasted were good and some were even excellent. My tastings also provided me more evidence of the great value that is found in Portuguese wines, as well as that Italy has plenty of compelling wines. I spent some of my time tasting with Jason of Ancient Fire Beverage, and we agreed on a number of the wines we tasted. I also recommended some of the wines to others attending the Expo and there was much consensus from them as well.

Let me start by sharing some of my Portuguese finds.

I'll start with one of my top finds of the Expo, an incredible value wine that exemplifies what I love about Portuguese wine. The 2009 Quinta do Penedo Dao Red (about $12-$15) is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro, and sees some aging in used French and American oak. From an alluring aroma to a complex and compelling taste, this wine drinks like something at twice the price or more. Delicious black fruit flavors, plenty of spice and a nice exotic taste. A well balanced wine, with good acidity and a lengthy finish will satisfy to the last drop. This wine receives my highest recommendation, especially at this price.

The 2011 DFJ Alvarinho Chardonnay is an interesting and tasty blend of Alvarinho and Chardonnary. It is crisp and clean, with nice flavors of citrus and green apple with mineral notes. The 2010 Casa das Gaeiras Blanco, a blend of Arinto, Chardonnay and Fernão Pires, is very aromatic and has a crisp taste with delicious flavors of citrus and pineapple with floral accents. An excellent summer wine, or an accompaniment to seafood. The 2011 Casa das Gaeiras, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Syrah, is a big wine, with bold spices and blackfruit. However, it is balanced with well integrated tannins and a lengthy, satisfying finish. This wine beckons for beef, or a hearty ragu.

The 2011 Beato Nuno, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Castelão, is a lighter, simpler wine but with an appealing nose and a soft, fruity taste. A nice pizza or burger wine. The 2010 Quinta do Cachao, made from 100% Touriga Nacional, is also a light and pleasant red wine. An easy drinking wine for a casual meal, or to drink on its own.

All of the following wines are from the Adega de Borba winery, a cooperative of 300 wine growers, which is also one of the ten largest wine producers in Portugal.

The 2011 Montes Claros Colheita White, a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and Alvarinho, is a tasty and aromatic white, with excellent acidity and citrus, apple, and tropical fruit flavors with a mineral backbone. Good whether alone or paired with food. The 2010 Montes Claros Reserva, a blend of  Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, is bold, with prominent tannins but deep flavors of dark fruits and spices, as well as hints of chocolate and herbs. Nice complexity and a pleasing finish. The 2007 Montes Claros Garrafeira, a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez and Tinta Caiada, had a fascinating aroma, a melange of intriguing spices and fruit, and the taste fulfilled the promise of the nose. An elegant wine, with complex flavors, restrained tannins and a lengthy finish. An impressive wine that is well worth seeking out.

The basic 2011 Adega de Borba Tinto, a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet, was an easy drinking red with a spicy, exotic taste and a light fruitiness. Pizza, burgers, meatloaf or on its own. The 2008 Adega de Borba Reserva is more complex and deep, as well as more tannic. It would be better with food than on its own. The 2002 Adega Borba Garrafeira, a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, reminded me of the previous Garrafeira. From a compelling nose to an intriguing and complex taste, this is another winner of a wine. Well balanced, delicious and eminently satisfying. This wine might be a bit more aromatic than the other Garrafeira. It too is impressive and deserves to be sought out.

I have previously raved about the wines of Esporão and I stopped by their table to taste through some of the newest vintages. The 2011 Monte Velho White, a blend of Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum, is a crisp and tasty white with delicious citrus flavors and a fresh feel. The 2011 Esporão Verdelho is another delicious white, with nice acidity, good fruit flavors and a clean taste. The 2011 Esporão Reserva White, a blend of Roupeiro, Arinto and Antao Vaz, sees a little oak but it is still fresh and approachable, a more full bodied wine that is an excellent food wine. The 2011 Esporão Defesa Rosé, a blend of Syrah and Aragones, is fresh and bright, with delicious red fruit flavors.

The 2011 Monte Velho Red, a blend of Aragonês, Trincadeira, and Castelão, is full bodied, bold and spicy with nice black fruit flavors. A simple red yet still compelling with its slightly exotic taste. The 2010 Assobio, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Franca, is a bit smoother and lighter, and not as bold. But its taste is compelling with a pleasant blend of dark fruits and spice. The 2009 Esporão Reserva Red, a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonês, Cabernet Sauvvignon, and Alicante Bouschet, is also full bodied, and more complex, with a well balanced blend of flavors and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Over all, the wines of Esporão are very worthy of your attention.

La Face Cachée de la Pomme, based in Quebec, produces Neige Apple Ice Wine, an ice cider, and I have been a fan for over six years. It is sweet but balanced with a good acidity, and has a rich, apple flavor that makes an excellent dessert wine. I find it especially good paired with an apple or fruit dessert, such as an apple pie or fruit tart.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that they have a new product, Neige Bubble, a sparkling apple wine that sells for around $15.99 for a 750ml bottle. It is produced in the traditional method, from McIntosh apples, and 10% of Neige Apple Ice Wine is added to the bottle. It also has a low alcohol content of 7.5%. The Neige Bubble has a prominent and pleasing apple flavor and it is only lightly sweet. The bubbles make it refreshing and I believe that many people are going to enjoy this wine. I was impressed and will be sure to have a bottle or two at my next holiday party.

I have tasted and enjoyed a couple previous wines from Mallorca but was intrigued to check out another Mallorca producer at the Expo, Son Prim Petit Celler. Their winery was built on 2003 and they produce about 90,000 bottles annually, choosing to create wines in a more modern style. The 2010 Son Prim Cup is a blend of Mantonegro, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. I think the addition of the Mantonegro elevated this  wine, giving it a bit of a more unique taste. The wine was complex, with a nice blend of plum, black cherry, blackberry and spice notes. The tannins were moderate and it was a bold wine that wasn't overpowering.

I really need to drink more Franciacorta. It is a sparkling Italian wine made in Lombardy, often an inexpensive alternative to Champagne, and the handful of Franciacorta I have tasted have all been delicious. At the Expo, I experienced the wines of Guido Berlucchi, who was the first to produce this sparkling wine in 1961. I began my tasting with the Berlucchi  Metodo Classico Rose Cuvee '61, a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. A simple, easy drinking and dry wine with bright red fruit flavors. Refreshing and pleasant.  It was tasty but it was the Franciacorta that thoroughly impressed me.

The Berlucchi Franciacorta '61 Brut is a blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, sits for about 24 months on the lees and sees no malolactic fermentation. This is such an elegant wine, smooth, complex and alluring. Delicious and clean flavors of green apple, melon and citrus with a rich mouthfeel. This was a "wow" wine and I wished at the moment that I could sit and drink the entire bottle. The Berlucchi Franciacorta '61 Rose, a blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay was equally as impressive, another elegant and complex sparkling wine but this time with delicious red fruit flavors. I would be hard pressed to say which of these two wines I liked better. These wines seem to cost around $30-$35 and I think that makes them both excellent values. Both are highly recommended, and are going to motivate me to seek our more Franciacorta.

A couple more Italian wine highlights include the following:

2011 Curtes Pecorino Falerio: Made of 100% Pecorino, this was an interesting white wine with pleasant citrus flavors and some nutty notes. Crisp, clean and tasty, I could easily enjoy this on its own or with food.

2009 San Joseph Rosso Piceno Superiore: A blend of 50% Montepulciano and 50% Sangiovese, this has a powerful earthy aroma, which might be offputting to some. I liked its rustic nature, with its cherry and plum flavors, vanilla and herbal notes.

I have to give some love to one of the food exhibitors too, Slant Shack Jerky. They use only grass fed beef, from farmers in Vermont and New York, and it comes in a variety of flavors. You can even custom order your own flavors, choosing a marinade, rub and/or glaze. They had four flavors available to taste at the Expo, including: Dried & True, Jerk McGurk's Wild Rubdown, and two Hot & Smoky flavors. I was impressed with the flavors of the jerky, as well as its texture which wasn't too tough or chewy. The Wild Rubdown, which has ginger, garlic, brown sugar, cayenne and paprika was my favorite of the four. It is available online or at Whole Foods and some other specialty shops.

What were some of your favorites from the Boston Wine Expo?

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2012: Top Ten Wines Under $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

The start of a new year approaches and it is time to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor many pleasant memories. As 2012 winds down, many in the media will publish their own lists of the best and worst of the past year, everything from books to movies to music. As I find some value in such lists, I will post some of my own Favorite Lists for 2012, covering food, wine, sake and spirits, over the next few weeks. These lists should provide a comprehensive summary of the favorite items I have encountered this past year, allowing my readers to more readily locate such gems, the best of my recommendations.

My first Favorites List of 2012 is my Top Ten Wines Under $15. In actuality, I have listed twelve wines, pairing a couple together from the same producer. This list includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2010 Adega Condes de Albarei Salneval Albarino ($11.99)
This Spanish white wine was produced by the Adega Condes de Albarei winery, a cooperative of 362 grower/owners equipped with advanced winery technology. I love Albarino and this wine was crisp and clean with a delightful and dominant melange of peach, pear and melon. There was also a subtle minerality with hints of honey and spice. A more voluptuous wine, this can be enjoyed on its own or paired with food, maybe something spicy. An excellent value.

2) 2005 Sella & Mosca Terre Rare Carignano del Sulcis Riserva ($14.99)
At a major wine event, with hundreds of wines, this was one of my overall favorite wines, especially at this price point. This Italian wine is made from 100% Carignan and aged for three years in French barriques. It is a stunning, complex and interesting wine. Spicy and bold, with delicious black fruit flavors, vanilla, a silky mouthfeel and hints of earthiness. Would love to drink this with pork, venison or lamb. An amazing value.

3) 2011 Calamares Vinho Verde ($7-$8)
Yes, it is named after squid and there is even a picture of a squid on the label. It might be easy to dismiss this wine as a gimmick but it is not. This Portuguese white wine is a blend of 40% Arinto, 30% Trajudura and 30% Loureiro with a low alcohol content of 9%. This is an easy quaffer, a wine to drink and enjoy, without any need to think about it. Slightly effervescent, it has plenty of acidity and flavors of grapefruit and lemon, with some mild mineral notes. For under $10, this is a very good choice.

4) 2009 L.A. Cetto Chenin Blanc ($10-$12) and 2010 L.A. Cetto Chardonnay ($10-$12)
L.A. Cetto is a winery in the Baja region of Mexico. Mexican wine you might ask? I haven't tasted many Mexican wines but this winery is doing a great job, especially at this price point and is well worth seeking out. The 2009 Chenin Blanc is made from 100% Chenin Blanc, sees no oak and is crisp and fresh, with delicious fruit flavors of melon, pear and peach and hints of herbs on the finish. The 2010 L.A. Cetto Chardonnay is produced from 100% Chardonnay, sees no oak and is also crisp and clean with delicious flavors of apple, pear, lemon & guava, with a touch of minerality. Both wines have more complexity and character than many similarly priced wines. I will be seeking more Mexican wines.

5) 2010 Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico ($15)
While gorging myself on five courses of beef from an amazing restaurant in Tuscany, I tasted an assortment of Chianti Classico wines. Out of that group, the Querceto stood out, pairing so well with the beef tartare and steaks. The Querceto, made from primarily Sangiovese, is a silky smooth and elegant wine with nice red fruit flavors and a hint of earthiness. It showcases the best of Tuscany at this price point and it would be best served with food.

6) 2011 Elisabetta Geppetti Fattoria Le Pupille ($13-$15)
This Italian red, from the Morellino Di Scansano DOCG, is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Malvasia Nera and it sees no oak. It is fresh, fruity, rustic and with hints of spice. A very easy drinking, it has a nice character, good complexity and is simply  quite delicious. It can be drank on its own or paired with food, such as a wild boar ragu.

7) 2011 Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage Rosé ($12),
This South African Rosé is from a winery that produces some of the best Pinotage in the world. The Rosé is produced from 100% Pinotage and if you tasted this blind, you probably would never guess it was Pinotage. It is an easy drinking Rosé with tasty red fruit flavors, especially raspberry and cherry, some minerality as well as excellent acidity. It is more Old World than New, with plenty of character and a satisfying finish. It is the type of wine that I could easily drink all day. It is an excellent food wine as well as enjoyable on its own. Highly recommended.

8) Cave Messias 2003 LBV Port (about $15)
The Cave Messias produces an assortment of Portuguese wines from Dão, Bairrada, Douro, Vinho Verde, Beiras, Terras do Sado and Vinho do Porto. Their 2003 LBV Port is a great value, presenting nice complexity, plenty of delicious red fruit flavors and some intriguing spice notes. It was silky smooth and presented a lengthy and satisfying finish. Might be hard to find a better LBV Port at this price point.

9) 2010 Biohof Pratsch Gruner Veltliner ($13) & 2009 Biohof Pratsch Zweigelt ($13)
Austrian wines, both red and white, have much to offer and the Biohof Pratsch, an organically certified winery produces some great value wines. Both of these wines are produced in one-liter bottles, which is 1/3 larger than a usual wine bottle, and cost only $13, which would be equivalent to about $9.30 for a regular 750ml bottle. What a bargain! The Gruner is crisp and dry with bright citrus flavors and hints of spice. A very refreshing wine that would be excellent with food or just as a summer sipper. The Zweigelt is light bodied and smooth with plenty of tasty red fruit flavors. Another easy drinking and flavorful wine. Both are strongly recommended.

10) 2010 Vera de Estenas P.G. Bobal ($13)
This Spanish winery is located in the D.O. of Utiel-Requena and is the oldest winery in that region. The wine is produced from 100% Bobal, an indigenous grape, and spent a few months in oak. It is light bodied with delicious red fruit flavors complemented by a subtle earthiness and hints of spice. I was really amazed at its quality and complexity at this price point and it is a wine I highly recommend.

Once again, there are no U.S. wines on the list. I often find it more difficult to find compelling domestic wines for under $15, especially from California. They exist but I find them much less common than value imported wines. Six different countries made this list and no single country really dominated, though Italy had the most wines on the list with three, partially due to my trip to Chianti Classico last spring. Spain, Portugal, Mexico and Austria all had two wines on the list and South Africa had one. The list is also broken down into 1 Rosé, 5 Whites, 5 Red and 1 Fortified wines.

You will find many excellent value wines from Portugal, including a fair share under $10. Spain has some very good values too, though it seems you need to look a bit harder now than you once did. Austria remains an overlooked region with some excellent values which you should consider. Mexico was the big surprise this year and I need to seek more of their wines out. You can find value wines all over the world, in every region, though some regions provide a greater range and diversity of value wines.

I have other recommendations for wines under $15 on my blog and you just have to search for them. There remain many good buys available in this price range, wines which exceed much of the common plonk out there. It is important to remember that though wine stores sell plenty of wines in this price range, not all of them are of equal value. Wines in this price range do not have to be one-dimensional wines that all taste the same. You can find wines of character and complexity, though you might need to spend a little more time seeking them out.

Wine blogs can help you in that regard, pointing out wines that you might not otherwise know about. Tasting the wines before you buy them is another way to find such values. Or simply ask your trusted wine store owner for advice and suggestions.

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines under $15, please add them to the comments.

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Rant: Don't Buy The Same Old Cheap Wines

With the holiday season approaching, many people will stock up on wine to serve their guests at various holiday parties and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, their primary concern is price. They generally want to purchase wine that costs $10 per bottle or less. That may mean they end up stocking up on brands like Yellow Tail and Estrella. I see a similar thing with people who bring a bottle of wine to a holiday party. They don't want to spend too much money and thus often bring those same brands.

Though those might be drinkable, they are not likely to impress your guests. Guests will drink them but no one will remember them after the party. I certainly would rather not drink them at a holiday party. My objection is not because of their price but rather that they are uninspiring.

Your guests want to drink better, more interesting, wines than these. When I attend my holiday parties, plenty of the guests seek me out specifically to find out what wines I brought. They know that I am likely to bring something delicious and compelling. My wines will be the first ones they drink and the Yellow Tail and Estrella is what they will drink once my wines are gone. What all these guests may not realize, is that many of the wines I bring are great value wines.    

Wouldn't you prefer to purchase inexpensive wine that will also impress your family, friends and other guests? That is definitely possible and is not too difficult to do. You have two primary options to locate such wines.

First, seek out one of the better discount wine stores. These places often carry a good selection of wines costing $10 or under, much more than you will find at a regular wine store. You can find plenty of variety in these inexpensive wines, whites and reds, domestic and imported. You will find wines comparable in price to Yellow Tail but which offer much more character, complexity and taste. They offer a much better value, and still at a low price point.

As one example, I would highly recommend Bin Ends in Braintree. On my last trip there, I bought over 20 different wines, all costing $10 or less. It was an excellent and diverse selection and I have yet to drink one of those wines which was not pleasing. Another example is the Wine Connextion in North Andover, where I attended an event last night. Roughly one-third of their wines cost under $10 and though that includes some major brands, there are plenty of much more interesting wines too.

Second, if you shop at a regular wine store, you still have options though it probably would be best to ask a wine store employee to help you find their value wines that cost $10 or less. They can identify those wines which will be more interesting and delicious than the usual Yellow Tail and Estrella wines. You should also remember that most wine stores offer a discount for bulk purchases, sometimes as few as 6 wines, which is another way to save money on your purchases.

But if for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $10 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. At this time, I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at the price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $10 or less, you will find a delicious and interesting wine. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point. At the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, the wine store where I work part time, I often recommend Portuguese wines to people seeking great values.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines. It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you will impress your guests and make your holiday party more memorable.

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All About Portuguese Wines

I have heard the clarion call for the wines of Portugal, those intriguing wines which seduce with their tantalizing aromas and flavors. It is my desire that many others feel the urge of that clarion call too. To that end, I have become an ardent advocate for Portuguese wines, to share all the excellence I have found in their wines.

As I have written numerous posts about the wines of Portugal, including Port, I felt it would be very helpful to my readers to compile those links in a single place. This post will be that repository, and as such will be constantly updated when I write another article about Portuguese wine, including Port. The posts will be listed in chronological order, from the oldest to newest. I have excluded several posts, generally those which are reviews of large tasting events which might also have a few reviews of Portuguese wines that were at the tasting. If seeking a review of a specific Portuguese wine, you can always search my blog in the usual way.

Portuguese Wine Tasting: An Excellent Event
Portuguese Wine Made In Prison
Portuguese Wine Grand Tasting
Premium Port Wines: UNLVino
Portuguese Wines: An Exciting Future
Douro & Port Tasting
A Taste Of Portugal At Prezza
The Passion of Portugal: Esporão and Murças
Esporão and Murças: Wines Spawned By Love
Port Day: January 27
How To Pair Port With Dinner
Port Pleasures At The Boston Wine Expo
The Diversity of Port
The Origins of Port: Part 1
The Origins of Port: Part 2
The Origins of Port: Part 3
The Origins of Port: Part 4

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The Origins of Port: Part 4

"Sip your spirits and cure your cold, but I will take Port that will cure all things, even a bad character. For thee was never a Port drinker who lacked friends to speak for him.”
--William Makepeace Thackery

--19th century

Despite the change in the balance of power, English demand for Port continued into the 19th century, though the amount of wines imported from Portugal decreased. Between 1807-1816 AD, about 50% of the wines imported into England were from Portugal. This was a major decrease from when imports once reached around 66%.

War soon came to Portugal. In 1806 AD, Napoleon Bonaparte, the Emperor of France, issued the Berlin Decree, forbidding the importation of British goods into any European nation either allied with or dependent upon France. This was the opening move of Napoleon's Continental System, a plan to isolate his enemy England. England responded in kind, with the Orders of Council of 1807 AD, forbidding trade with France. Portugal refused to follow the Continental System, choosing to continue trade with England, which greatly angered France.

In 1807 AD, France crossed through Spain and invaded Portugal, thus beginning the Peninsular War. In November 1807 AD, the French army marched into Lisbon, reaching Oporto two years later. But, they were ousted from Oporto only three month later. France also eventually chose to attack their ally Spain, while England supported its ally Portugal. Fortunately, damage to the vineyards in the Douro was minimal as they were located in difficult terrain, not easily accessible to a marching army. France was eventually completely ousted out of Portugal and the Peninsular War would officially end in 1814.

Napoleon's great defeat would come soon after at the hands of Arthur Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington, at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. It is claimed that the Duke enjoyed some Port prior to the Battle of Waterloo, and as he was victorious the name of the 1815 Port vintage, which was an exceptional year, has become known as Waterloo 1815.

As an aside, the noted wine lover Thomas Jefferson drank Port, but he preferred his Port to not have any added brandy. As a consequence, as nearly all Port possessed added brandy, then Jefferson probably bought and consumed very little Port.

The Douro Wine Company, which had broken the English control of the Port industry, continued to operate until 1833 AD, though it was reinstated for ten year from 1843-1853 AD. Port production in the early 1840s reached a high of 100,000 pipes, with about 25% being exported to England. The Company's  monopoly on Port though started to irritate even the Portuguese so it was about time for a change.

In 1852, the Douro region was seized by Miguelites, who were loyal to the former King of Portugal, Dom Miguel. Dom Miguel had lost in a civil war and been exiled from Portugal in 1834. Yet he still had supporters within the country. The Miguelites held this region for about 18 months, destroying a brandy storage depot which also set fire to some Port warehouses as well. It is estimated that about 27,000 pipes of Port were destroyed, much of which flooded the streets and poured into the Douro river. The Douro Wine Company was broken up and other organizations took over its powers and responsibilities.

It was also in 1852, that odium, powdery mildew, started to affect the vineyards in the Douro, leading to decreased yields. Almost ten years later, potentially as early as 1863 though maybe as late as 1868, the devastating phylloxera arrived. Fortunately, the American root stock was introduced soon enough before too significant of damage could occur. Portugal weathered these adversities and the Port industry continued to supply Britain and other countries.

--20th century

It is interesting that during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was common for people to drink sweet wines, such as Port, with their meals and rather than just before or after dinner. That eventually fell out of fashion, though there are reasons why maybe it should come back, or at least be considered for some dinners.

The etiquette for drinking vintage port is also intriguing. Because of the likely sediment in the bottle, the Port is decanted, and many fancy decanters have been created for Port. The host will then first offer to pour a glass for his principal guest, who sits to his right. Next, the host fills his own glass and then offers to fill the glass of his guest on his left. The decanter then gets passed to the left, and each guest is expected to continue passing the decanter once they fill their own glass. If they fail to do so, they might be asked "Do you know the Bishop of Norwich" or "Do you know Jones of the sixtieth?" No one seems to know the origin of these questions but their purpose is to notify the person that they are supposed to pass the decanter.

The years directly after World War I were some of the best for Port. In Britain, Port demand was huge, with Port & Lemonade being the favored drink in many pubs. As an example, in 1919 AD, England imported a record of 7 million cases of Port. During the late 1930s, after Prohibition, U.S. started to become a market for Port while French demand was starting to increase significantly. But World War II changed everything, almost bringing the Port trade to a stop, and even after the war it took many years for the Port industry to rebound. In 1946 AD, England imported only 2 million cases of Port, a drastic reduction from its post-World War I levels.

As I noted in the first part of this series, in 2010, about 6.7 million cases of Port were produced, an amount which has been in decline. France is now the top importer, buying 28.5% while the U.S. only purchases about 3.9%, and it too has been in decline. It is time for Port to make a comeback, for a resurgence in popularity. It is time to consider Port as a wine for pairing with dinners, and not just chocolate and blue cheese. It is time to savor the delights of aged Port, from Vintage to Colheitas, from 20 Year Old to 40 Year Old. It is time to shatter the myths concerning Port and embrace this historic and delicious fortified wine.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

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The Origins of Port: Part 3

"Port is not for the very young, the vain and the active. It is the comfort of age and the companion of the scholar and the philosopher."
--Evelyn Waugh

--17th to 18th century

As relations between England and Portugal grew even closer, England began to acquire significant concessions from Portugal to help maintain good trade relations. This created an imbalance of power, allowing England to dictate many terms to Portugal. As an example, the Commonwealth Treaty, which was established in 1654 AD gave English merchants greater power in the the city of Oporto than even the native Portuguese. For one thing, the treaty stated that no Englishman in Portugal could be tried by a Portuguese court, effectively placing them outside of the law.

It is also during this century that some of the oldest Port houses were established, mainly by Englishmen. It is fascinating though that the earliest Port house was founded by a German and not an Englishman. In 1638 AD, Christiano Kopke of Germany formed CN Kopke & Ca Lda. It would not be until over thirty years later, in 1670 AD, that the Englishmen William Burgoyne and John Jackson founded Burgoyne & Jackson, which later would become known as Warre's. In 1678 AD, Mr. Croft from Yorkshire founded Phayre & Bradley (the name of its partners), later to be known simply as Croft.

During the final quarter of the 17th century, Port first started to become a fortified wine, similar to what we now know it to be. It is alleged that in 1678 AD, at a monastery in Lamego, a village in the Douro, monks first began adding brandy to their wine. This brandy helped to stabilize and protect the wine during shipping and was sometimes known then as "priest-Port." This should not surprise anyone as monks have made huge contributions to the creation of some of the world's best wines, from Bordeaux to Champagne.

The location of Lamego is also significant as that was where Afonso Harique's men first declared him to be King and he proclaimed Portucale to be a separate kingdom. Though some Douro wines would now start being fortified, it would still take a number of years before it became the norm. In addition, England still currently preferred French wines over Portuguese wines, though that would soon change.

In 1678 AD, England, despite its close ties to Portugal, was only importing about 108,000 gallons of Portuguese wine, compared to over 3.7 million gallons of French wine. That imbalance would drastically change during the next few years. Starting in 1679 AD, because of years of constant conflict between England and France, England decided to ban the import of French wines. This was partially in retribution for an earlier French policy that that had effectively closed French markets to English cloth. Bad news for France, as well as French wine lovers in England, but it would be great news for Portugal.

The initial ban of French wine remained in effect until 1683 AD and was then reinstated from 1689-93 AD. As a substitute for those French wines, England looked toward Portugal for replacement wines. So, in 1679 AD, England imported about 252,000 gallons of wine from Portugal, more than twice the amount of imports from the prior year. From 1682-85, total imports of Portuguese wines were over 3.5 million gallons, a huge increase. Even when the ban was lifted once again in 1693, a heavy tariff was still placed upon French wines, giving a significant advantage to Portuguese wines. It also helped that England was now acquiring Port, heavier red wines which met English tastes, and which they sometimes referred to as "blackstrap."

Thus, as the 18th century began, Port was becoming extremely popular in England and it would be a golden century for Port. The Methuen Treaty of 1703 between England and Portugal, a commercial and military treaty, helped to spur on the demand for Port. The treaty was signed during the War of the Spanish Succession, when England, Portugal and other countries united against a possible unification between Spain and France under the rule of a French king. The treaty lowered tariffs on Portuguese wine, as well as English textiles, mainly wool, and made it much easier for the English to acquire Portuguese wine while England was at war with France. But even when hostilities ceased, the treaty continued to provide those same low tariff benefits, making Portuguese wines more enticing.

The English power over the Port trade continued, and they used this power to control prices. In 1727 AD, English merchants formed a trade association and constructed the Factory House, also known as the British Association House, in Oporto. This was not an actual factory but a private gentlemen's club, where the merchants would meet to discuss how to control the wine trade. As one extreme example, it was said that some Portuguese growers, in an attempt to obtain good prices, had to prostitute their daughters to the English shippers.

During the period of 1717-1777 AD, Portugal shipped about 10-12,000 barrels of wine to England each year, constituting about 2/3 of all the wine imported by England. Spain was another significant supplier, constituting almost 25%. England only imported about 4% of their wine from France. So it is easy to see how much Portuguese wine was consumed in England, especially Port.

It became a sign of manliness of how many bottles of Port you could drink in one sitting, or during a day. It was a sign of pride to be a "three-bottle man," able to consume three bottles of Port at one time. There were even a smaller number of "six-bottle men." At an extreme, the classical scholar Dr. John Porter was said to drink thirteen bottles of Port every day. We should note though that port bottles were smaller then, had less alcohol, and usually plenty of sediment at the bottom of each bottle. As for alcohol levels, in the early 1700s, only about 3% brandy was added to Port though that percentage increased over time so that by 1820 AD, it had risen to about 22%.

Obviously Portugal was displeased with the power imbalance and would eventually find a way to wrest control back from England. Those changes had their origins in 1750 AD, when Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, the Marques de Pombal, returned to Portugal after having spent time as the Portuguese ambassador to London. Upon his return, Portugal King José I rewarded Pombal for all his good work, making him Minster of the Kingdom, essentially a Prime Minister. Pombal's position gave him much power, and used it for the benefit of the country in many ways, from abolishing slavery to significant economic reforms. In addition, he helped to bring about major changes in the wine industry. Obviously, not everything he did was welcomed or considered positive, but his impact cannot be ignored.

Because England wanted so much Port, the producers found themselves unable to meet the demand. Thus, some unscrupulous producers began to adulterate their wines, creating false Port, to meet the demand. Elderberry juice was a common additive. The English were smart enough to realize they were being scammed and there was much tension. Pombal knew that he had to remedy this problem and to do so, in 1756 AD, he formed the Companhia Geral da Agricultura e Vinhos do Alto Douro ("General Company of Agriculture of the Wines of the Upper Douro"), which was more commonly known as the Douro Wine Company.

The purpose of this company was to regulate the Port industry, to guarantee the quality of the wine, as well as to wrest control of the industry out of the hands of the English. The company also established the geographical boundaries for the Douro region, making it the third oldest protected wine region in the world after the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary and Chianti in Italy. But, it may be the first actual wine appellation, as unlike the other two regions, the Douro was also subject to government rules and regulations.

The regulations touched on many different aspects. For example, it helped delineate which areas could not produce grapes, generally those lands which were needed to grow corn, a vital food crop. The rules prohibited the addition of elderberry juice, or other adulterants, to Port and even required that all elderberry plants had to be destroyed in the Douro. Vineyards were divided into two main types: vinhos do ramo and vinhos da feitoria. Vinhos do ramo means "branch wine" and refers to the tradition of identifying taverns by seeing a branch hung outside of them. These are wines primarily intended for domestic consumption. The vinhos da feitoria were the higher quality wines, those destined for export, mainly to England.

All of the company's regulations helped to give Portugal back most of the control of the wine industry, which angered England yet there was not much they could do about it. They still possessed a great desire for Port so they dealt with the situation as best as they could.

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Part 4

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The Origins of Port: Part 2

"Port is deep-sea deep. It is in its flavour deep; mark the difference. It is like a classic tragedy, organic in conception. An ancient Hermitage has the light of the antique; the merit that it can grow to an extreme old age; a merit. Neither of Hermitage nor of Hock can you say that it is the blood of those long years, retaining the strength of youth with the wisdom of age. To Port for that! Port is our noblest legacy!"
--George Meredith in The Egoist

--The Moors to the Reconquest

When the Moors invaded Spain in 711 AD, they eventually made their way into Portugal, reaching the Douro by 716 AD. Yet, like the Romans before them, the Moors preferred to remain largely in the southern regions, maintaining only a few castles in the north. Despite the Koran’s prohibition against alcohol, the Moors continued to grow grapes and make wine. Though wine sales were technically illegal, it was still subject to an excise tax. Some wine was produced to distill alcohol for medicinal purposes but other wine was either sold or traded to Christians and Jews.

It is also evident, especially through their poetry, that some Muslims enjoyed drinking wine, despite the religious proscription. Numerous Muslims found creative ways to interpret the Koran’s words on wine, providing some justification for their wine drinking. Arabic wine poetry, called khamriyyah, originated in the 6th century but started to become more prominent in the 9th century. From the 9th through 11th centuries, wine parties became an honored tradition, very popular especially for the elite, the courtiers close to the Caliph. These parties were the origin and subject of many wine poems. It seems logical to conclude that the rulers were fully aware of these wine parties, yet apparently did nothing to impede them.

The Christians were eventually able to retake Portugal from the Moors much quicker than they did in Spain. The Christians started the reconquest in the north, taking back Oporto by 868 AD and Coimbra by 1064 AD, and establishing their own kingdoms in the north. It was during this time period that the seeds of modern Portugal were sown.

In 1093, a French adventurer, Count Henry of Burgundy married Teresa, the illegitimate daughter of King Alfonso VI of Castile and Leon. As part of the dowry, Alfonso VI gave Henry the County of Portugal, the region between the Minho and Douro rivers. Henry was an ardent wine lover but he was not satisfied with the existing wines of Portugal, which he found to be much too thin for his tastes. So it is alleged that he brought Pinot Noir grapes, which were later renamed Tinta Francisca, to Portugal. Unfortunately, there is no scientific evidence that supports Tinta Francisca being related to Pinot Noir so this is probably merely a legend. The dissatisfaction with thin wines from Portugal though would arise again and again, eventually fueling the creation of Port.

When Henry died in 1112, his five-year old son Afonso Henriques was his heir, but due to his age, Henry's wife, Countess Teresa, governed as regent. It is during this period that the Order of Cistercians, Christian monks, established some of the first quintas in the Douro, including Quinta da Folgosa, Paco de Monsul and Quinta do Mosteiro. The Cistercians, also known as the White Monks, emphasized a life of manual labor and self-sufficiency so agricultural pursuits were very common. The primary purpose of the quintas was to supply local monasteries, though it is possible some of it was sold too.

Family drama and intrigue developed when Teresa remarried a Galician count, which angered some Portuguese lords, worried about strengthening bonds to Galicia. They did not want to be swallowed up by Galicia and it eventually, in 1120, led to some of those lords, including the Archbishop of Braga, to revolt against Teresa. Surprisingly, the young Afonso supported the rebels against his mother but the rebellion was unsuccessful. A number of those lords, including the Archbishop and Afonso, were then exiled, leaving Teresa in greater control.

Maybe she should have executed Afonso because he did not surrender his opposition to her rule. Two years later, when he was only 14 years old, Afonso started another war against his mother, hoping to reclaim his birthright. The battles raged on for several years until 1128, when during the Battle of São Mamede, Afonso finally defeated Teresa's forces. He then exiled her and became the Duke of Portugal. In April 1129, Afonso, later nicknamed the "Conqueror," was proclaimed as the Prince of Portugal, the leader of the County.

Afonso must have acquired a taste for war as he now turned his ambitions against the Moors occupying Portugal. In 1139 A.D., Afonso engaged a large force of Moors in the Battle of Ourique and won decisively. In the town of Lamego, Afonso's men declared him to be King and he proclaimed Portucale to be a separate kingdom, no longer connected to Leon-Castile. Obviously, King Alfonso VII was not pleased with Afonso's proclamation and four years of bitter conflict ensured. But, eventually Alfonso VII and Afonso reached an agreement and signed the Treaty of Zamora, which granted recognition to Portucale as a separate, independent kingdom.

Afonso Henriques, continuing to live up to his designation as "Conqueror," did not stop there and captured even more land from the Moors, reconquering Lisbon in 1147, and retaking Evora in 1166 and the Algarve in 1249. With the conquest of the Algarve, the Moors were effectively removed from Portugal. In comparison, Spain would not be able to oust the Moors until 1492 AD. Afonso had succeeded in his plans, now possessing control over all of the Portugal, ruling as its first King. Around 1179, Pope Alexander III finally recognized the new kingdom of Portugal.

--13th to 16th century

Britain, which would become so important to the development of Port wine, may have first started importing wines from Portugal as early as the 13th century, and those wines were likely white wines, possibly vinho verde. During this time, trade between Britain and Portugal became common and it eventually led in 1353 AD to a formal, commercial treaty between Lisbon, Oporto and King Edward III.

Within twenty years, ties between Portugal and England became even more solid. With the invasion of Portugal by Castile, and the Hundred Years War raging between England and France, the two nations had incentive to form a closer alliance. They then signed the Treaty of Windsor in 1373 AD, which is now the oldest diplomatic alliance which is still in force. This treaty has been reinforced multiple times through the centuries, the first time in 1386 AD with the marriage of King John I of Portugal to Philippa of Lancaster.

It was also during this century that England started trading a significant amount of fish, especially cod, for Portuguese wine. Cod, known in Portugal as bacalhau, was an important staple so Portugal became the primary market for England's fish. Bacalhau was even nicknamed fiel amigo, "faithful friend." Many of the Portuguese wines that were being traded to England were now red, but still very light, even though England preferred heavier wines.

In the latter part of the 16th century, a wine production center was established in Portugal at the port city of Viana do Castelo, with the objective of concentrating on the production of red wine for export to Britain. Soon after, Britain established a consulate there to protect their mercantile interests. In order to promote these Viana wines, British merchants even made the rather outrageous claim that the wines were prophylactic against the plague. Though they were certainly not the first or last to make such outrageous claims about the health benefits of wine and other alcohols. The only problem with the wines of Viana is that they did not travel well so the British begin to seek elsewhere, eventually finding the wines of the Douro.

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