Rant: Post-Labor Day Wine Advice

With today as Labor Day, it is seen by many people as a signal of the end of summer, despite the fact that the official end is not until September 22. Labor Day also presages changes in the wine world, beyond the fact it is harvest season, and consumers need to pay attention. There are opportunities now that they should take advantage of, to learn more about wine, to experience different wines, and to enjoy plenty of delicious wines.

First, far too many wine stores stop stocking Rosé wines after Labor Day, though the situation improves each year. All those delicious pink wines you have been savoring all summer? Well, there is absolutely no reason you should stop drinking them just because fall is coming. Rosé should be enjoyed year-round, especially as it is excellent with food. More and more wine lovers are coming to this realization, which will spur wine stores to carry more Rosé all the time. We need to get over the misconception that certain wines should only be enjoyed seasonally. All wines are appropriate year-round, and so I hope you keep drinking Rosé through autumn, winter and spring.   

Second, after Labor Day, wine stores will begin stocking up on new wines as their busiest season is about to begin. This will also mean that many of those wine stores will start holding large wine tasting events, where you may be able to taste many different wines, sometimes as many as 100 wines. Most of these events will be free, providing you a perfect opportunity to experience many wines which you may not have tasted before. The best way to learn about wine is to taste it so you should attend these events to expand your horizons, to delve into a wealth of diversity.

You might be tempted at these events to taste only those wines which you already know and love, or which are similar to those wines. However, don't do that! Instead, experiment and take chances, tasting new wines of which you might never have heard about  Expand your palate and broaden your horizons by tasting lots of different wines, especially considering that these tastings are free and you thus have nothing to lose. You might find a new favorite wine, or even several new favorites.

At these events, with so many wines, you will want to remember those wines which you most enjoyed. Take notes of those wines so you can recall them later, so you can find them again. If you don't want to take notes, use your cell phone to take a photo of the wine label. You can then take that picture to a wine store and they can see if they carry that wine. With a tasting of 25 or 50 wines, it can be difficult to remember your favorites merely by memory. Memorializing your favorites in notes or a picture will be very helpful when you seek your new favorite weeks later.

Third, with all of the holidays coming up, you might be hosting parties for your family and friends. You might then need a selection of wine for these celebrations. Price is usually a significant factor in your decision as to which wines to purchase. Remember that many wine stores provide a discount, commonly 10%-20%, if you purchase a case of wine, and sometimes a discount for as little as six wines. Instead of buying just the cheapest wine at a shop, ask the staff at that store for their recommendations for the best value wines. They might be able to suggest wines you might not have considered, wines which offer excellent value as well as taste. For example, Portuguese wines can offer great value, especially for wines under $10, but many consumers don't realize that fact.

What post-Labor Day wine advice do you have for consumers?

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Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week & Ristorante Massimo

Not all Restaurant Weeks are created the same. 

The Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week started yesterday and will continue through April 13. During this week, you will be able to obtain a three course Lunch for $16.95 or a three course Dinner for $29.95 at approximately 49 restaurants. In addition, some of those restaurants are offering even more for this low price, from free wine to extra courses.

For example, The Portsmouth Gas Light Co., B.G.'s Boathouse and Cafe Nostimo each offer a complimentary glass of wine or beer. The Great American Grill offers a free glass of House Wine. Cava offers a four course dinner while Moxy offers a five course dinner. Tio Juan's Margaritas Mexican Restaurant and Grill 28 are offering their three course meals all day for only $16.95. Check the various menus to see which other restaurants are offering special extras too. Over a dozen restaurants also offer gluten free and/or vegetarian menu options. These include The River House, Blue Moon Evolution, Brazo, Cava, Common Man, Green Monkey, Martingale Wharf, Moxy, Tulsi and more.

On Wednesday, I drove up to Portsmouth to attend a launch party for Restaurant Week at the Agave Mexican Bistro. I arrived in Portsmouth a bit early as I enjoy walking around their downtown region, which is thriving with lots of unique shops, bakeries, ice cream spots, restaurants and more. It is a great place  to spend a day and it is close enough to the Boston area that the ride is only an hour or so. With summer coming soon, it is a destination that should be on your radar, especially as its culinary scene keeps getting better all the time.

At the launch party, there was beer & wine and a couple tables loaded with Mexican food, including grilled beef, chicken and shrimp skewers, fully loaded nachos, quesadillas, and much more. My favorite was the Queso Fundido, a traditional black lava stone filled with sizzling Chihuahua cheese and Mexican chorizo. Lots of great flavor, nice spices and cheesy goodness. If I dined here, I would have to order this dish. The other items were good as well, but the Fundido really called to me.

There was also a Bartender's Competition, a selection of several local mixologists who competed to create the best cocktail. The judges selected Neal Jacobs from Moxy as the winner, his cocktail containing a variety of local ingredients, including: Art in the Age Rhuby, Flag Hill "Josiah Bartlett" Apple Brandy (Lee, NH), Sweet Baby Vineyard Bartlett Pear Sweet Wine (Kingston, NH), Syrup of Locally Foraged Wintergreen, Appleton Farms Maple Syrup (Ipswich, MA), Lemon Juice, and Moxy-Made Bitters. I didn't get to taste the cocktail but it sounds intriguing and creative.

There was another contest as well, sponsored by Martignetti Companies, for all of the attendees at the party, which involved a blind tasting of four wines, trying to guess the grape. The grapes ended up being Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. I was psyched to learn that I won the grand prize, a $200 gift certificate to McKinnon's Market & Butcher Shop. Blind tasting is far from easy, but it was lots of fun.

I spoke with a few local chefs and members of the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce and one of the more interesting conversations concerned how to keep their Restaurant Week vibrant and dynamic, to avoid problems like the backlash against Boston Restaurant Week. That is probably a conversation Boston Restaurant Week should have as well, to find ways to inject new life into an event which isn't working as well as it could. It is good to see Portsmouth is paying attention, seeking ways to ensure their Restaurant Week remains an interesting and compelling event. One thing I like about the Portsmouth Restaurant Week is that many of the menus seem far more interesting and diverse than what I often see in Boston Restaurant Week menus.

After the launch party, I was invited to dine at Ristorante Massimo, an Italian restaurant known for its authentic Italian cuisine and superior hospitality. I met Massimo Morgia, the owner, who was born in Pontecorvo, Italy, and he was a gracious host. In 1994, Massimo became the co-owner of Anthony Alberto's Ristorante Italiano and then in 2003, Massimo became the sole owner and changed the name to Ristorante Massimo. Since 2005, their Executive Chef has been Jethro Loichle.

This is Karen Kervick of the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce and Massimo Morgia.

The restaurant is located in the basement area and has an intimate and homey feel to it, with lots of exposed brickwork, paintings of Italian scenes and wine racks. There is even a tiny corner table, a romantic spot, where a number of people have gotten engaged (pictured above). The waiters are elegantly dressed in tuxedos, representative of old time hospitality, and they live up to that ideal. Each server was professional, courteous and accommodating.

Throughout dinner, I chose to drink a delicious Rosé, the 2010 Croix de Basson Côtes de Provence. It is certified organic, a blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault. It was crisp and dry, with pleasant red fruit flavors, and paired well with the seafood I had for dinner.

Though Restaurant Week had not started yet, Massimo made the menu available to us and it includes a choice of 4 First Courses, 4 Entrees and 2 Desserts. You could start with a dish like the Fried Zucchini Blossoms or Pan Roasted Duck Breast and then move on to a dish like the Grilled Sirloin Steak or Porcini Crusted Day Boat Scallops.

I began with the Pasta con Gamberetti, Gulf shrimp sautéed with angel-hair pasta, basil chiffonade, and a parmesan, black peppercorn and lemon emulsion. The pasta was cooked perfectly and the emulsion was full of tasty flavors, complementing the tender shrimp. It makes me intrigued to try other of their pasta dishes.

For my Entree, I selected the Cioppino di Pesce, pan seared day boat scallops, shrimp, locally caught cod and Bangs Island mussels, served Cioppino style in a fennel and saffron scented broth, with grilled house made bread and rouille. The broth was rich in taste, a savory liquid that enhanced the seafood, such as the very tender and flaky cod and large scallops. I even dipped a few pieces of bread in the broth, sopping up the delicious liquid.

Prior to dessert, I ordered some tea and they brought out a box so I could make my selection. Each choice has a small container of tea leaves which you can sniff and determine if you want it or not. I chose the Bangkok, a green tea with lemongrass, coconut and ginger. It was a mild green tea with subtle flavors and I enjoyed it, especially the minor coconut notes.

For dessert, my choice was the Torta alla Cioccolata, a Valrhona chocolate mousse tart served with amoretto flavored raspberries and toasted salted walnuts. It was very rich, with a creamy mousse, and chocolate lovers would certainly enjoy.

I need to check out Ristorante Massimo another time, when it is not Restaurant Week, as I want to explore their menu in more depth. I saw several dishes on their regular menu which sounded quite appealing.

So why not give Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week a try?

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Castello di Amorosa: A Taste of Italy in California

How many wineries do you know which possess their own medieval torture chamber? You can find one at Castello di Amorosa in the Napa Valley, a winery with its own authentic Tuscan castle. Maybe they need the rack, iron maiden and other torture implements to handle unruly guests in their tasting room?

The origins of the Castello di Amorosa winery extend back to the late 19th century. In 1885, Vittorio Sattui, an Italian immigrant, established the V. Sattui winery in San Francisco. Prohibition put an end to the winery yet it would be resurrected fifty years later by Dario Sattui, his great grandson, in 1972. Dario reopened V.Sattui in St. Helena and it did well enough that Dario was able to expand. He bought a property in Calistoga in 1993 and then started construction of a Tuscan castle and winery, which opened in 2007.

Castello di Amorosa specializes in Italian style wines, though they make some standard wines too, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. It is their Italian-style wines though which intrigue me and I recently received some media samples of several of their wines. Unfortunately, their wines may be difficult for others to locate as they only sell them directly to the public. They are not available in wine stores or restaurants, and do not currently ship to Massachusetts. However, these wines are worth seeking out if you can find a means of acquiring them, such as a friend in New Hampshire or Connecticut.

The 2011 Dolcino Gewurtztraminer ($24) is made from 100% Gewurztraminer, a blend of estate fruit and some purchased fruit. The term Dolcino is an Italian diminutive for being "lightly sweet," which reflects the style of this wine. The wine is aged only in stainless steel, has an alcohol content of 12%, and about 1849 cases were produced. This wine has a typical Gewurztraminer profile, both aromas and flavors, but is slightly sweet. It is a well made wine, balanced and complex, and is an excellent companion to spicy Asian fare. It tastes more European than California, and I recommend it.

The Italian word Gioia means Joy and the 2011 Gioia Rosato di Sangiovese ($24) brought me much Joy! This Rosé, made from 100% Sangiovese, was aged only in stainless steel, has an alcohol content of 13.1%, and about 1642 cases were produced. First, the alluring aromas, bright fruits, tantalized my nose and once I tasted it, the melange of complex flavors thrilled my palate. Strawberry, plum, raspberry, cherry, mild citrus and herbal hints. Dry, crisp acidity, and a satisfying finish. An excellent food wine, and something you can enjoy year round. Drink one glass and I bet you finish the entire bottle that same day. Highly recommended.

The 2009 Sangiovese ($30) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, and I had high hopes for this wine after my experience with the Rosato. It didn't let me down. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.5%, and about 3531 cases were produced. Again, the aromas were seductive, bright cherry, herbs and spices, and it tasted wonderful. A complex blend of flavors, including black cherry, plum, spices, vanilla and mild herbal notes with a tinge of earthiness. A lengthy finish, smooth tannins and a wine that made you crave more and more. It reminded me more of a traditional Sangiovese style than a modern one. Another highly recommended wine.

Castellana means "The Lady of the Castle" and the 2008 La Castellana ($68) is a Super Tuscan-style blend, containing 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 14% Sangiovese. The wine is aged for 20 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.6%, and about 1634 cases were produced. There are two basic styles of Super Tuscan blends: a Chianti style (heavy on the Sangiovese) and a more Bordeaux style (usually heavier on Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot). I have a strong preference for the more Sangiovese heavy Super Tuscans, such as the Isole e Olena Cepparello and the Fontodi Flaccianello.

Thus, the Castellana wasn't the type of Super Tuscan that I usually gravitate to, but I found it to be an excellent wine. It is a complex and intense wine, yet the tannins are manageable and it doesn't pulverize you with its flavors. Dark berries, black cherry, a little tartness, a rich spiciness and hints of mocha. A lingering finish is very pleasant, and it probably would be best with a hearty dish, from a juicy steak to a Bolognese Tagliatelle. I would love to see what Castello could do with a more Sangiovese heavy Super Tuscan.

The next time I am in Napa, I will have to visit Castello di Amorosa, to taste more of their wines, and o hopefully catch a peek at their torture chamber.

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Crémant d'Alsace: A New Year's Eve Recommendation

With New Year's Eve around the corner, Sparkling Wine takes center stage, including Champagne, Prosecco, Cava and domestic bubbly. Some people are willing to splurge on pricey Champagne while others are more frugal, seeking inexpensive, value sparkling wines. One excellent value option, which may be overlooked by the average consumer, is Crémant d'Alsace.

In 2008, Americans consumed almost 99 million bottles of domestic sparkling wine, 17 million bottles of French Champagne and over 45 million bottles of sparkling wine (like Cava and Prosecco) from other countries. Out of that 161 million bottles, only about 300,000 bottles, a mere drop in the bucket, were Crémant d'Alsace. It is clear how little Crémant d'Alsace is consumed here, though the amount of imports seems to be slowly increasing.

In the Alsace region of France, they have been producing sparkling wines since the early 19th century but it was not until 1976 that the Crémant d'Alsace AOC was created. Back in 1979, their total production was less than 1 million bottles but that has now increased to around 33 million bottles. The term "crémant" basically means "creamy" and originally referred to sparkling wines that were produced with less pressure, which tended to make them taste more creamy than effervescent. There are six other Crémant AOCs in France, including Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Die, Jura, Limoux and Loire.

Crémant d'Alsace is produced in a similar fashion to Champagne, though there are some differences as well. The Crémant d'Alsace AOC has strict regulations on viticulture and viniculture, and six grapes are permitted including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Most of their Blanc de Blancs is made from Pinot Blanc while Pinot Noir is the only grape permitted in their Rosé. For those who want value, Crémant d'Alsace usually sells for $10-$20, making it very affordable. But what does it taste like?

Based on my recent experiences with several Crémants, they generally seem to be more Old World in style, with restrained and subdued flavors. They generally don't possess bold fruity flavors like Prosecco and Cava, and are more dry, crisp and clean. They are refreshing, excellent with food and offer good complexity at their price point. I want to review two Crémants I recently enjoyed around the Christmas holiday (both being media samples) and I'll be discussing more Crémants in the near future. In short though, consumers should be seeking out Crémant d'Alsace if they want an excellent value sparkling wine.

The Willm Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($13) is produced in a winery that has been around since 1896, and their wines were the the first Alsatian wines imported into the U.S., in the early 1930s, just after Prohibition. This Crémant is made from 100% Pinot Blanc. using the méthode traditionnelle. Crisp, dry and fresh, it possessed pleasant tastes of green apple and pear. A refreshing bubbly, it made for an excellent apertif as well as an accompaniment to some pre-Xmas dinner appetizers, including cheese. At this price, I strongly recommend this Crémant.

My favorite of the two wines though was the Pierre Sparr Crémant d'Alsace Rosé ($19). The winery extends back to 1680 so it has a long, rich history, making a comeback after being nearly destroyed during World War 2. This wine is produced from 100% Pinot Noir and is aged for about 12 months on the lees. It has a rich and vibrant pink color with a compelling nose of red fruits. The red fruit flavors, strawberry, cherry and hints of watermelon, are more subtle on the palate with mild accents of peach and minerality. Clean, crisp and dry with a pleasing finish. It reminded me of a delicious Provence Rosé and was a fine choice for my Xmas Eve dishes. Highly recommended for year round pleasure.

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2012: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last Friday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2010 Tikal Natural Malbec ($20)
Produced by Ernesto Catena in Argentina, this wine is made from 100% Malbec, certified organic grapes, and the vineyard is moving toward becoming Biodynamic. The wine spent about a year in oak, mostly second-use French oak, with a small portion of American oak. With a dark purple color, the flavors of the wine burst into your mouth, a pleasant blend of ripe plum, dark cherry, intense spice and bits of mocha. The tannins are moderate, there is good acidity, and the finish is long and satisfying. A hearty fine that will pair well with hearty food, from Bolognese to short ribs.

2) 2006 Eder Raubern Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner ($17-$20)
The Eder winery, in Austria, is small, possessing about 12 hectares of vineyards and produces only about 20,000 bottles annually. The Raubern is a single vineyard wine that thoroughly impressed me. The melange of flavors fascinated me with their complexity, with plenty of spice and floral notes, yet still with noticeable stone fruit components. Despite its age, this seemed still very fresh and it was a clear winner, sure to please any wine lover. An excellent value at this price point.

3) 2009 Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($43.99)
In general, I enjoy Oregon Pinot Noirs and some are superb. This wine was a stunner, subtle and seductive as well as elegant and complex. The melange of flavors ranged from bright cherry to ripe plum, from cinnamon to black pepper. You need to slowly sip and savor this wine, to perceive all of the diverse flavors within. Well balanced, this wine provides an alluring finish that seems to caress your palate with silk, lingering long within your mouth. A killer wine, I highly recommend this one.

4) 2011 Prieure de Montezargues Tavel Rosé ($20)
This is one of my favorite French Rosé wines, and the 2011 is equally as good as the previous year. The Rosé is a blend of 8 grapes, including 55% Grenache (red & white), 30% Cinsault, 13% Clairette, and 2% Others (Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan & Bourboulanc). It is produced through pressing and underwent stainless steel fermentation and then a short term of aging on the lees. It was a pale pink color, crisp, dry and elegant. Delicious and complex tastes of cherry, strawberry, and grapefruit with a mineral backbone. You should drink this Rosé year round.

5) 2008 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia ($35-$45)
One of my favorite wines from my Chianti Classico trip, the Rancia is made from 100% Sangiovese, all from a single vineyard named Rancia. That vineyard derives its name from a historic farm that once was a Benedictine monastery. The wine was barrel aged for 16-18 months in new and one year old 225-liter oak barrels and then spent an additional 6-8 months aging in the bottle. The Rancia possessed an alluring smell, a melange of wonderful aromas that beckoned to me like a siren. It was a traditional style, with a delightful earthy component, and a compelling taste of black cherry, blueberry, violets, spice, and hints of leather. It was elegant and intriguing, with a lengthy, satisfying finish. Just a superb wine.

6) 2011 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso Blanc ($24)
Paso Robles seems to be a great region for  Rhône grapes and this Halter Ranch wine is an enticing Southern Rhône blend of 33% Grenache, 26% Roussanne, 20% Picpoul Blanc, 12% Marsanne, and 9% Viognier. It was fermented in French oak, stirred twice a week to mix in the lees, and doesn't undergo malolactic fermentation. The aroma was spectacular, a complex and harmonious melange of floral, fruit and herb notes, all of which also came out on the palate. Peaches, lemons, melons, white flowers, minerality and so much more. Well balanced, complex, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and excellent acidity. A highly recommended wine.

7) 2004 Rodano Viacosta Chianti Classico Riserva ($30)
This is another winner from Chianti Classico. The winery produces traditional style Chianti Classico and I was impressed with all of their wines I tasted. The Viacosta was a stand out, made from 100% Sangiovese that was aged for about 24 months, 60% in French oak and 20% of that is new. It had an alluring aroma and on the palate it was stunning. Complex, elegant, rustic, spicy, and with a lengthy and pleasing finish. A great food wine, this should be in your wine cellar.

8) 2011 Blomidon Estate Winery Rosé ($15.99)
Several years ago, I toured some of the wineries of Nova Scotia but plenty more have sprung up since that time. One of those new ones is Blomidon Estate Winery, which is committed to producing wines using only Nova Scotia grown grapes. Their 2011 Rosé is a blend of three hybrids: New York Muscat, L’Acadie Blanc and Baco Noir. It was crisp, dry, and clean with subtle strawberry and watermelon flavors and hints of floral notes. It was far more Provence style than California, and paired very well with a variety of foods. You never would have known this was made from hybrids. In a blind tasting, you might assume this was a French Rosé.

9) 2010 Planeta Carricante ($36)
Sicily possesses a number of indigenous grapes including Carricante, a white grape thought to extend back to the 9th century and is primarily found in the Etna region. It is a late maturing grape, thrives in high altitudes and has a high acidity which allows it to age well. This wine was made from 100% Carricante and remains on the lees until the February after harvest when it is then bottled. It had a light gold color with an exciting aroma of apples and floral notes. On the palate, it was crisp, clean and complex with a dominant steely minerality and subtle fruit flavors, including pear and green apple. A lengthy and satisfying finish, this would be an excellent seafood wine and it should age very well too. I heartily recommend it.

10) 2010 Joel Gott Alakai ($24)
This California red wine blend is comprised of 77% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, and 2% Petite Sirah. It had an alluring nose, great fruit and hints of spice and was compelling on the palate. Complex, with a delicious melange of reds fruits and spice, with hints of earthiness. It was more on the lighter side with smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish. An excellent food wine, or something you can savor on its own. Just plain delicious

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually add to this list. Like my previous list, no single country dominated though Italy once again occupied three spots, due to my trip to Chianti Classico. California took two spots while Argentina, Austria, Oregon, France, and Nova Scotia each took one spot. The list is also broken down into 2 Rosé, 3 Whites and 5 Red wines. Half of the wines on the list also cost less than $25.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

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Pinotage Recommendations: Kanonkop Kadette Rosé & Lion's Drift

Why is Pinotage still such a divisive grape? In the past, there might have been some Pinotage wines that evidenced a nasty, burnt rubber aroma and taste, but that has largely vanished. Today's Pinotage wines have never been better, offering intriguing and compelling flavors and aromas. I have long been a fan of this grape and strongly recommend that all wine lovers check out these wines. Forget your old prejudices and give Pinotage another chance.

For more information about Pinotage, you might want to start with a fascinating book devoted to this grape, Pinotage: Behind The Legends Of South Africa's Own Wine by Peter May, which is now available as an ebook too. I previously reviewed this book and urge all wine lovers to check it out. Peter tells a compelling story and you will learn much.

I recently tasted two delicious Pinotage wines, including a Rosé, and both of these wines should convince skeptics of the wonders of this grape.

"Pinotage is the juice extracted from women's tongues and lions' hearts. After having a sufficient quantity one can talk forever and fight the devil."
--On a sign in the tasting room of the Kanonkop winery in South Africa.

The Kanonkop Wine Estate is one of the top wineries in South Africa and they produce some of the best Pinotage in the world. Located on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain in the Stellenbosch region, Kanonkop is a fourth generation family estate. The estate has about 100 hectares of vineyards, roughly 50% planted with Pinotage. Their Pinotage wines are complex, elegant and absolutely satisfying.  

Only recently though did I taste their Rosé, the 2011 Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage Rosé ($12), which is made from 100% Pinotage. If you tasted this blind, you never would realize that it was Pinotage as it doesn't fit any stereotype of a typical Pinotage profile. There were no smoky or bacon flavors. Instead, it was an easy drinking Rosé with tasty red fruit flavors, including raspberry and cherry. Excellent acidity, plenty of character, and a pleasant finish. It was more Old World in nature and I couldn't drink enough of it. It is an excellent food wine, as well as enjoyable on its own. Highly recommended and a very good value.

The 2009 Lion's Drift Pinotage ($18), from the Silkbush Mountain Vineyards, is another wine that is likely to surprise Pinotage haters. I received this wine as a media sample and it presents more of a New World flavor profile.

Silkbush Mountain Vineyards are located in the Breede River Valley and this is their first wine available in the U.S. The estate was purchased in 2000 by Californian Dave Jefferson and a group of American investors though it is managed by Anton Roos, a South African viticulturist. For more info on this winery, check out an informative article written by Peter May. The first vintage of Lion's Drift was 2008, so this wine was only the second vintage.

The 2009 Lion's Drift spent about 13 months in new French oak and has an alcohol content of 14.5%. This is a more fruit forward Pinotage, lush flavors of plum, black cherry and blackberry with a hint of vanilla and touch of spice. It is easy drinking with a good acidity and satisfying finish. It is very pleasant on its own, though would also pair well with foods such as burgers or pizza. This Pinotage is going to please many wine lovers and I give it my strong recommendation.

Stop hating Pinotage! Forget your preconceptions and just start tasting them again. I know you will be surprised at how good they taste.

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More Mexican Wine Treasures

Earlier this week, I wrote about two exciting wines from Mexico that I tasted at The Painted Burro, a Mexican restaurant in Davis Square, Somerville. On the same day of my post, I received an email about a tasting of two more Mexican wines which was taking place that day at Pairings, a wine store in Winchester. So I had to attend the tasting, to see what else Mexico has to offer.

The two Mexican wines at Pairings were also from the L.A. Cetto Winery, which is one of the only Mexican producers currently available in Massachusetts. You can check my prior post for some basic information about the winery. The latest issue of Saveur (Agu/Sept 2012) is their Mexico issue and there is a brief article on wines from the Baja region. It notes that in 1524, Hernan Cortes, planted grape vines, making Mexico the oldest wine region in the Americas.

At Pairings, they poured two wines, a Chardonnay and a Petite Sirah, both priced at $10.99, though the Petite Sirah is on sale through the rest of September for only $8.79.

The 2010 L.A. Cetto Chardonnay is produced from 100% Chardonnay, has an alcohol content of 12.5%, and does not see any aging in oak. With a light golden color, its pleasant aroma of tropical fruits and citrus will entice. On the palate, it is crisp and clean, with delicious flavors of apple, pear, lemon & guava, with a touch of minerality. An easy drinking wine, this has good complexity for its price point and definitely is recommended for an unoaked Chardonnay. Drink it with some seafood or a light chicken dish.

The 2009 L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah is produced from 100% Petite Sirah, has an alcohol content of 14.5%, and spends about 6 months in French oak. This wine had a medium red color, not opaque like many other Petite Sirah wines I have taste previously. On the nose, alluring black cherry and floral elements dominate. It is a big wine in your mouth and the tannins are strong, but there is good restraint as well. It won't overwhelm you, but instead will please your palate with its delicious black fruits, spicy notes and hints of floral elements, as well as its fairly long and satisfying finish. A hearty wine, this would go well with hearty dishes, from pasta to beef. It also gets my recommendation.

I also want to give you two more reasons to check out Pairings. First, they are still carrying at least a dozen Rosé wines, including the superb 2000 Lopez de Heredia Rosado ($31.99). I don't know how long they will last, but this is a great time to stock up on Rosé for the winter as it is a great food wine year round. Second, they also currently carry the Estenas P.G. Bobal ($13.99), a great wine at that price point which is sure to end up on my year-end Favorites list. Grab it and you won't be disappointed.

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