Winners of the Boston Wine Expo Tickets

And the winners are......

Last week, I posted about a contest to win a pair of tickets to the Boston Wine Expo Sunday Grand Tasting event. To enter, you only had to leave a comment on my post and two lucky winners, drawn at random, would each receive a pair of tickets. There were 29 commenters, all desirous of winning, but unfortunately only two of them can win. Thanks to everyone who entered!

The first winner is...Rachel Halko.

The second winner is....CatherineC.

Congratulations to the winners and please email your contact information to me so that I can send you the tickets. If for any reason, the winners are unable to accept the tickets, I will draw a new name to win.

I'll be at the Expo so hopefully I will see some of you there!

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Boston Wine Expo: Win Free Tickets

Would you like to win a free pair of tickets to the Boston Wine Expo?

The Boston Wine Expo will be held in three months, February 16-17, 2013, but it isn't too early to start making plans to attend. The Expo will showcase approximately 200 wineries, from more than 15 countries, so there probably will be over 1000 wines for you to taste. This is a huge wine event, presenting an opportunity for you to taste a diverse selection of wines and hopefully to find some new favorites.

I am giving away two pairs of tickets to the Sunday Grand Tasting (each pair valued at $150-$170). All you have to do for a chance to win is leave a comment on this post by November 19 at midnight. I will then randomly select two entrants to each win a pair of tickets. Very simple.

In addition, I want to offer some advice and suggestions for everyone who may be attending the Boston Wine Expo as it can seem overwhelming. People go to the Expo for a number of different reasons. Though many don't like to discuss it, there is a contingent that goes just to get drunk. I don't advise to do this. There is another contingent that treats this as a social occasion, that gets dressed up and enjoys meeting others who also enjoy wine. Some of my advice and suggestions below will apply to those attendees too.

The primary target of my advice and suggestions are those people who are going to explore the myriad wines that are available, who have a desire to learn and discover new wines. Like many endeavors, the key is in your preparation. Don't just show up and drink, especially if you want to learn anything.

1) Make a plan of which wine regions and/or specific wineries you want to visit. The Expo website lists many of the participating wineries, and usually posts a map of the Expo hall. You cannot taste every wine, or probably even 10% of those wines, at the Expo. So you need to be very selective as to what you taste. If you don't go with a plan, you may waste time wandering around the hall, and might even miss a winery that you really wanted to check out. With a plan, you can best take advantage of your limited time.

2) Why drink wines you already know and like? You can probably do that anytime and anywhere else. Instead, take this opportunity to expand your palate and try different wines, hoping to find new wines to enjoy. Never had Portuguese wines? Then make an effort to venture to their tables and try some of their wines, from Vinho Verde to Altejano reds. With all the diversity of wines available, it makes little sense to spend your time drinking the same wines you drink at home all the time. Be willing to experiment and taste something different.

3) To avoid the greatest crowds, go on Sunday rather than Saturday. Saturday in the Grand Tasting can be madness with the huge hordes of attendees. Sunday though does not attract the same hordes. It will still be crowded, but is more manageable.

4) Dress comfortably, noting that there is always the potential you might spill wine on your clothes. So leave those white shirts and blouses home. Wear comfortable shoes as you will be on your feet for several hours, walking around the Expo hall.

5) Don't wear perfume or cologne as they will interfere with your ability to smell the wine, and will also interfere with the ability of other people to do the same. So show consideration for your fellow attendees and don't wear it.

6) Eat a hearty meal before going to the Expo. If you are going to be tasting all that wine, you want to have a full stomach to help nullify some of that alcohol. If you go on an empty stomach, the alcohol will hit you harder and quicker, and you won't last long at the Expo.

7) How will you get to the Expo? Remember that you will be tasting lots of wines so you may not be able to drive home safely. No one should ever drink and drive! So, if you can, take public transportation, book a nearby hotel room, or have a designated driver. Please don't drink and drive.

8) You might want to leave your coat at home or in your vehicle. It gets warm in the Expo hall and wearing or carrying your coat can be a pain. You can check your coat at the Expo but when the Expo ends, there is often a long line to retrieve coats. To avoid that line, try not to bring a coat if possible.

9) Arrive early to avoid the long lines getting into the Grand Tasting. Though the tasting starts at 1pm, lines may start forming one to two hours beforehand.

10) At the Expo, when you are tasting wines, please spit. Every sip you swallow adds to your alcohol level and if you do not spit, you will soon find yourself intoxicated. Even small sips can add up quickly. Once you are intoxicated, all of the wines will start tasting good to you and you probably won't learn anything. Spitting is the only way to navigate through a large number of wines, trying to discern which new wines appeal to you. So spit, spit, spit!

11) While you are tasting wines, take frequent breaks to drink water and eat snacks to help cleanse your palate. There are numerous food vendors at the Expo, many offering free samples, so there is no excuse why you can't find something to nibble upon. Water is also necessary to stay hydrated. All of this will help keep your palate sharp, and also try to limit the effect of all that alcohol.

12) If you find a new wine you enjoy, how will you remember it? You should take notes, writing down the name of the wine, or use your smart phone to take a picture of the wine bottle label. Nothing is worse than tasting a great wine but later forgetting its name. You will taste plenty of wines at the Expo so the only way to ensure you remember which ones you enjoyed are to take notes or pictures.

13) If you really enjoy a wine, ask questions about whether it is available or not. Unfortunately, not all of the wines poured at the Expo are yet available in Massachusetts. If it is available, they should be able to tell you the name of the distributor. Write that info down as it will help you locate the wine later. You can go to your local wine store with that info and they should be able to get the wine for you.

14) Make sure you have fun!

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A Preview of the Boston Wine Expo

Though the Boston Wine Expo won't be held until mid-February 2013, I recently attended a special Blogger preview event at the Action Kitchen of the Seaport. It was my first time at the Action Kitchen and it is an excellent spot for food and wine events. Numerous wines were poured and there were several different dishes for us to snack upon. The Expo is making a concerted effort this year to reach out much more through social media as well as to work with local bloggers.

The center of the event was a speech by Jim Carmody, the Boston Seaport World Trade Center General Manager, who discussed the function of the Expo as well as referencing the changes coming next year. Near the start of his speech, he summed up the primary purpose of the Expo: commerce. As they say, it is all about the Benjamins. It is about wineries finding local distributors, distributors finding retailers and restaurants, and wineries trying to raise their brand recognition with consumer. Anyone showcasing their products at the Expo is seeking to make money, to expand their business. This is nothing new or surprising, but it was refreshing to hear.

At the Expo, there should be over 200 wineries from more than 15 countries. The Expo is upgrading the quality of their souvenir glasses and will allow for wine sales on site. The Grand Cru Lounge will include food created by local chefs and there will be a special Social Media Lounge. For added business, they will now provide small rooms where wineries and distributors or distributors and retailers can meet to discuss business.

The prior, restrictive conditions on bloggers obtaining media passes for the Expo will be loosened, though we don't know at this point exactly what changes will be made. But their goal appears to be to allow a greater number of bloggers to attend the Expo. I think it is very important for bloggers to be able to attend the trade hours of the Expo, so they can taste wines during the quieter time of the Expo, before the public descends upon the Expo. It is far more difficult to properly taste and review wines once the public enters the hall and crowds the tables.

Bloggers can help promote commerce. Their wine reviews will live on long after the Expo is over, once the public returns home from their wine tasting weekend. The reviews can be used as selling points by wineries, distributors and retailers. When the public conducts online searches, they can read about the wines and gain a sense of whether they want to buy them or not. The regular readership of these blogs look forward to such posts, to obtain recommendations. Bloggers will talk about these wines through social media channels, from Facebook to Twitter. It may not be an easily measurable area, but there is no denying bloggers can have a significant impact on commerce.

One aspect of the Expo not to forget is their charitable contributions. Since the event's inception, they have raised over $1.4 million, which was distributed by the Boston Guild of Oenophilists, Inc. to over 27 charitable entities. Always good to see such charitable contributions.

Personally, I would like to see more Sake at the Expo. It is still a rarity there, and it not available every year. The Sake category would benefit greatly from large numbers of consumers having the opportunity to taste some quality Sake. Many people would enjoy Sake, if they only took a chance to taste it. They often have misconceptions about Sake, thinking that it is always served hot, and they need to learn the truth. Thus, having chilled, premium Sake available for tasting will help distributors and retailers sell much more Sake.

More information about the Boston Wine Expo will be coming, and if I learn anything more of significance, I will be sure to update my readers.

Of the wines I tasted at the preview event, one especially stood out me and it is worthy of a strong recommendation. The 2010 Joel Gott Alakai ($24) is a California red wine blend, comprised of 77% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, and 2% Petite Sirah. It had an alluring nose, great fruit and hints of spice and was compelling on the palate. Complex, with a delicious melange of reds fruits and spice, with hints of earthiness. It was more on the lighter side with smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish. An excellent food wine, or something you can savor on its own. Just plain delicious.

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Boston Cocktail Summit: Resurrection Of An Icon-Rum On The Rise

"Alcohol is all about escapism."
--Karen Hoskin 

For many people, Rum brings to mind tropical drinks in the Caribbean. Yet Rum involves much more than just the Caribbean and New England was also once a hot spot for rum production. In a previous post, Rum: A Brief History & Trivia, I discussed some of the history of this intriguing spirit. Yet the origins of rum may extend much further back in time, at least according to Karen Hoskin of Montanya Rum.

Karen led a free seminar, Resurrection Of An Icon--Rum On The Rise, discussing its history, the various styles, ingredients, production, cocktails and more. In addition, she discussed a bit about her own rum distillery and rum bars in Colorado. You can read my previous review of her two rums, the Oro Dark Rum and Platino Light Rum. Karen provided some very intriguing information about the history of rum and it was a worthy seminar.

It all began with India. On a beach in Goa, India, Karen began her relationship with rum, sipping some Old Monk Rum and having an epiphany of sorts. As the importer is located in Massachusetts, Old Monk is available locally. In the conventional history, sugarcane allegedly originated in New Guinea around 6000 BC and spread from there to the rest of the world, though Karen believes that sugercane may have also developed independently in India, and that it was an East India strain that led to its hybridization.

In addition, Karen feels, and she is supported by other historians, that India may have produced the first sugarcane based alcohol, the ancestor to modern rum. The ancient Malay people also produced a sugarcane based alcohol that they called "Brum." Interesting how that name is so similar to "rum." During the travels of Marco Polo, he spoke of a sugarcane based alcohol he encountered in Iran. Our more modern rum industry spread from Brazil in the 1620s, to the Caribbean in the 1650s and then New England in the 1660s.

There are two primary rum production ntraditions, that of the islands and that of the mountains, sea level versus higher elevations. Rum also varies by the main ingredient, such as molasses, processed sugarcane juice, or raw cane. Island rums are often molasses based, and it needs to be noted that molasses has a high sulfur content, which can be dulled with age. Island rum also ages quickly and can emit a bit of sulfur on the finish. The quality of the water used to produce rum is also very important.

When producing Montanya Rum, Karen decided to produce a rum in the mountain tradition and using raw cane. Raw cane lacks any sulfurous by products and Ron Zacapa is one of the other rum distilleries that produces a raw cane rum. Montanya Rum uses sugarcane from Maui, Hawaii, which is traceable from a labor union sugarcane farm. Sustainability has become a growing concern for Karen. A $4000 pallet of raw cane will create a couple thousand bottles of rum, a higher yield than they once produced. Colorado water, from a 350 feet deep well, is used, which has a good minerality and would work well to produce any type of spirit.

The distillery is more of an old style facility, using two alembic copper pots from Portugal. They produce about 90,000 bottles of rum annually, split equally between Oro and Platino. Most of their rum is sold in Colorado but it is currently available in 37 states, with major growth in Southern California. The new markets of Atlanta and Las Vegas are also showing potential.

Karen also briefly categorized the history of rum cocktails into four main types: Islands (with tropical fruits), Tiki (with different herbs), Classic (Cuba playing a major role) and Contemporary (with a culinary edge). Karen and Brice Hoskins own 2 rum bars and the only rum sold at those bars are their own two rums. They have over 100 cocktail recipes, and all of those recipes can be found on their website. Their best selling rum cocktail, outselling all others by 2 to 1, is the Maharaja, which is made from fresh ginger, chai spices, and the Oro Dark Rum. We got to try this cocktail and it did have a pleasant spicy edge to it.

Tonight, why not make a rum cocktail and escape.

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Boston Cocktail Summit: Jameson Black Barrel

In the U.S., Irish Whiskey had great growth from 2010 to 2011, a boost of 23.9%, though it is still a small category at approximately 1.76 million cases. The most popular choice in the U.S. as well as its native Ireland, is Jameson Irish Whiskey. It is ubiquitous in airport duty free shops and Russia has become the second top consumer, jumping from seventh place in the span of a single year. Jameson has just invested in a new distillery to double their capacity and they already possess the largest distillers in the world, which were hand crafted.

Jameson Irish Whiskey held a seminar where they introduced the Jameson Black Barrel, as well as discussed the art of cooperage. I find the art of cooperage in the wine and spirits industry, the creation and maintenance of barrels, to be fascinating. There is still much mystery in the use of barrels, such as how two seemingly identical barrels, containing the same alcohol under the same conditions, can produce different tasting alcohols. It is also an art which retains its historical roots, with some of tools and methods remaining relatively unchanged for thousands of years.  

Master Cooper Ger Buckley, pictured above, is one of four coopers at Jameson. He is the fifth generation of cooper in his family and has been working as a cooper for about 36 years. He has hopes that a nephew will become the sixth generation, though Ger will be getting an apprentice next February. Ger discussed the job of the cooper, showing some of the tools he uses as well as discussing Jameson Irish Whiskey in particular.

The first evidence of cooperage extends back to the ancient Egyptians, around 2000 BC. Many of the tools coopers still use extend that far back as well, including the ax, adze and hammer. All of the tools and activities used in cooperage seems to possess their own unique name. Ger told us that the procedure for cutting trees for staves for barrels is called quarter sawing, as the tree trunk is essentially cut into quarters. Interestingly, when using a plane on a stave, you actually hold the plane solid and move the stave over it, which is the reverse of usual woodwork.

He also explained the reason why whiskey barrels are now charred. Originally, many of the barrels were previously used, such as to store and transport fish. That fish smell pervaded the barrel so would have ruined the taste of the whiskey. Just cleaning the barrel was insufficient to remove the fish smell so they charred the inside of the barrel to remove the odor. They later realized that the whiskey actually tasted better in the charred barrels, and started to do so even when it wasn't necessary.

Did you know that the first Kennedy brothers to come to Massachusetts were coopers?

This is a short video of Ger taking apart a barrel so we could have a closer look at an individual stave. It is interesting how everything fits together as it does, sufficiently tight so that no liquid leaks out.

For Jameson, they use only high quality barrels, obtaining their used bourbon casks from a U.S. distributor and their used sherry barrels from a bodega in Jerez. Their whiskey does not possess an age statement as the blender does not want to be restricted, desirous of the ability to select whiskey when he feels it is ready. In general though, the regular Jameson Irish Whiskey has a rough age of 5-7 years while the Black Barrel has a rough age of 8-16 years.

At distilleries, you may find pot stills or column stills, or even both. But, in the world of Irish Whiskey, "pot still whiskey" has a specific meaning, and not what you might think. It is a blend of malted and unmalted barley produced in a pot still. It is the unmalted aspect which differs from usual pot distilling. It was originally created in an effort to reduce an English tax on malted liquor. In general, it leads to a creamier mouthfeel in the whiskey.

The Jameson Black Barrel ($35-$40) is only made once a year, a total of around 9000 cases, and is sold in only a limited amount of countries. They wanted to create a sweeter style whiskey and I believe they succeeded in their objective. The Black Barrel is a blend of pot still whiskey and small batch grain whiskey, and they use virgin bourbon casks for aging. It has a sweet aroma, actually reminding me a bit of a nice bourbon, and on the palate, there is plenty of sweetness, yet not cloying. There were creamy tastes of vanilla, caramel, honey and even toasted marshmallow. It was mellow and smooth, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. A fine sipping whiskey, especially on a chilly autumn or winter evening.

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Boston Cocktail Summit: Subtle Nuances of Vodka

"Martinis should be sexy, swanky and clear."
--Tony Abou-Ganim

Vodka is the number one consumed spirit in the U.S. and also in the world. In 2011, vodka grew in the U.S. by 6%, up to 65.8 million cases. Despite its huge popularity, it is still a much maligned spirit, and misconceptions about its taste and aroma abound. That is why I was intrigued to attend a seminar at the Boston Cocktail Summit called The Subtle Nuances of Vodka.

The seminar was led by Tony Abou-Ganim, a well known mixologist and the author of The Modern Mixologist. He has also written a book on vodka which should be published in the near future. Tony did a great job with the seminar, which was both educational and entertaining. The seminar was not only a discussion of the various aromas and flavors that are found in different vodkas, but it included a blind tasting of eight vodkas to show us the subtle differences.

Under U.S. law, “vodka” is defined as "neutral spirits so distilled, or so treated after distillation with charcoal or other materials, as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color." Does that sound appealing at all? No, and it is the primary view of vodka which many people share. Because of its alleged neutrality, it is an easy spirit to mix in cocktails, and that might be a significant reason for its popularity. But this view of vodka as a truly neutral spirit is plainly incorrect.

Tony believes that vodka is the hardest spirit to taste and evaluate because of its subtleties. He provided us a sheet though of many of the possible descriptors for vodka, including Aroma/Taste, Mouthfeel, Finish, and Overall Character. From personal experience, I have long believed vodka showed a diversity of aromas and flavors, which is why I have certain favorites. If they all tasted the same, or if they all lacked flavor, then I would enjoy them all equally. Yet that is far from the case.

To me, I see vodka in some respects as similar to Sake, as it is another alcohol which often has a more subtle flavor profile. “As easy to drink as water” is a saying sometimes used to describe an excellent Sake, to reflect its clean, pure taste, though that does not mean it lacks aroma or flavor. It is probably an apt phrase to describe some premium vodkas as well. I know that some of my favorite vodkas certainly bring to mind this saying.

Vodka can be made from almost any fermented sugar and Tony even stated: "Gin is flavored vodka." Tony provided a brief history of vodka, noting that it did not really get popular in the U.S. until some time after Prohibition. Smirnoff originally promoted vodka as "white whiskey" though their greatest success may have come from their promotion of the Moscow Mule cocktail, the first time a cocktail was used to promote a specific spirit. But Tony gives much credit for the popularization of vodka to suave James Bond, who prefers his vodka martinis to be shaken, not stirred.

Tony feels that shaking a vodka martini is fine, though he would not do so with gin, but he also believes that vermouth does not work well with vodka. He stated that a good vodka martini should be diluted with about 20% water from the ice, as the water softens the vodka and flowers the nuances. The accompaniment for a vodka martini should complement the inherent flavors of the vodka, such as a blue cheese stuffed olive with a spicy vodka or a grapefruit slice with a citrus vodka. We are not talking flavored vodkas here, just the natural flavors of a straight vodka.

Tony himself keeps about 20-25 vodkas in his freezer, with frozen glasses. It should be slowly sipped, rather than guzzled, so that you experience the vodka as it changes in the glass from warming up in the room. He calls this "lowering the reveal." He also noted that in Russia, they usually drink vodka with food, especially briny foods like caviar, rather than in cocktails. So why aren't more Americans drinking vodka with food? You are starting to see rum, whiskey and other spirit dinners, but vodka dinners seem to be absent. Maybe it is time to change that situation.

We did not know the identities of the vodka in the blind tasting until the very end, after we had sampled all eight. The vodkas ended up including Finlandia, Ketel One, Titos, Stolichnaya, Absolut, Belvedere, Chopin, and Ciroc. One tip Tony gave us is that when smelling the vodkas, we shouldn't just take a big snifff but rather should put our nose in glass and then breathe in through your mouth. This would help prevent our nose from being overwhelmed by alcohol. Tony also differentiated between Old World vs New World vodkas, between those which are more traditional and those which are more approachable.

The blind tasting was educational because even if you could not detect all of the aromas and flavors that others found, you still learned that vodka is actually a diverse spirit, possessed of a range of different aromas and tastes. The main ingredients used to produce the vodka, whether wheat, corn, potato or something else, play a significant role in the flavor and aromas of vodka. It would be a worthwhile experiment for anyone who continues to believe that vodka is odorless and flavorless. Grab a bunch of vodkas and try your own blind tasting at home.

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Boston Cocktail Summit: Spirit Recommendations

You can't have a conference dedicated to spirits and cocktails unless you provide plenty to taste and drink. At the Boston Cocktail Summit, they certainly provided ample opportunity for tasting and drinking, from some of the seminars to the evening parties. In addition, there was a Craft & Fine Spirits Showcase, separated into a Grand Tasting Room and a Craft Distiller's Hall, where a myriad of spirits and cocktails were presented for sampling.

I spent several hours on Saturday sampling in these two rooms, generally passing on those spirits I already knew, seeking out the different, interesting, unique and unusual. Tasting so many spirits is not an easy task, as even if you spit, you still absorb some of the alcohol. It is more difficult than wine tasting due to the much higher alcohol content of the spirits. Fortunately, both rooms had some snacks to help cleanse your palate and absorb some of the alcohol. Plus, taking a lunch break, a burger and tater tots, helped keep me going for  more tasting in the afternoon.

This is a great time in the spirits world, and there has never been a greater number and diversity of artisan and high-end spirits available. No matter what your preference, you can find plenty to please your palate. And if you are adventurous, you will find much to satisfy you, much to delight and tantalize you. I am going to highlight some of the alcohols which most impressed and excited me, those which intrigued me because of their uniqueness and fine taste. I may follow up on some of these spirits in the future, to gain more information about their creation, and if so, I will report back.

Let me start with some local spirits. I previously toured Turkey Shore Distilleries, sampling three of their rums. At the Summit, they presented their newest offering, which had only been bottled less than a week before. The Old Ipswich Golden Marsh Spiced Rum, a limited edition, is basically a blend of 80% of their White Cap rum and 20% of their Tavern Style Amber with the addition of ten different spices. Master Distiller Evan Parker says, "With the cooler weather, we created a flavor profile that is perfect for those crisp days out and about or for those cold nights by the fire."

The rum presents a bright, golden yellow color and a spicy aroma, which will bring to mind autumn and cool weather. It has a smooth taste, with delicious fall spice notes and hints of orange peel. This is definitely a rum to enjoy now, either on its own or in a cocktail. Evan states, "For a simple, tasty cocktail, you can pair Golden Marsh Spiced Rum with ginger beer or hot cider." I could easily see this rum added to some hot cider.

They also had an intriguing cocktail to taste, which was made from the Golden Marsh Spiced rum, caramel, butterscotch liqueur, and spiced apple cider, topped with a Pumpkin Munchkin. The rum complemented this drink very much and I think apple cider is a great pairing. The guys from Turkey Shore, Mat Perry and Evan Parker have created another winner.

Grand Ten Distilling is another local distillery, located in South Boston, and Luke O'Neil has just written an interesting article in The Phoenix about this distillery. For background on the distillery, you should check out his article though it only discusses their Wire Works Gin (which I did not taste). I tasted three of their other products and found all three to be interesting.

The Amandine Barrel Aged Almond Liqueur spends about 6 months in 30 gallon American oak barrels. They use 30 gallon barrels as it is easier for two people to move them around rather than the usual 53 gallon barrels. The barrels are toasted, not charred, as they do not want the barrels to filter out any of the taste. All the color of liqueur is due to the barrels. The liqueur had a pleasant almond taste, not too sweet, and would make a fine addition to a cocktail. The Angelica Botanical Liqueur is made with angelica root, cinnamon, orange peel and cloves. It too is not sweet, but is aromatic and floral with a fresh, clean taste and slight hints of spice. Another liqueur that would add interesting flavors and aromas to a cocktail. The Fire Puncher Fire Vodka has a hickory smoked and pepper flavor, and I found the peppery notes to be far more prominent than the mild smokiness. It is farily easy drinking and would be great in a Bloody Mary.

Another local company, in Somerville, is Infusion Diabolique which is a collaboration between Executive Chef Robert Fathman and Brandon Bach, both who worked at Azure. They produce infused alcohols and at the Summit showcased two of them, their bourbon and tequila, though it appears they also make an infused rum. They are all infused with natural fruits, herbs and spices.

The Infusion Diabolioque Kentucky uses a four year old bourbon and infuses it with dried organic Black Mission figs, Madagascar & Tahitian vanilla, cinnamon, star anise, black currants, cloves, and allspice. It smells like typical bourbon with subtle spicy notes and on the palate, the bourbon flavor is enhanced by subtle fruit flavors with a pleasant melange of spices. It was smooth and easy drinking, and would satisfy you on its own, though it would do well in a cocktail too. The Infusion Diabolioque Mixto is a silver tequila infused with sweet pineapple, Persian limes, cardamon, and mint. Up front, the usual tequila flavors are most prominent, but it then transforms into a more complex blend with some tropical fruit accents and subtle mint. The finish is smooth and long, with hints of lime. Again, it would work well on its own or in a cocktail.

Dunc's Mill is the oldest continuously operating distillery in Vermont. The founder, Duncan Holaday, previously created Vermont Spirits but now has moved on to creating local rum. He currently produces two rums, both which are made from Fair Trade, organic sugar cane and Vermont flavors. The Elderflower Flavored Rum is created with Vermont elderflower blossoms and Austrian elder essence, which is infused into a light rum. I was impressed with this rum, which possessed a delightful floral aroma, and on the palate was smooth, clean and dry with a prominent, but not overwhelming, taste of elderflower. It was a well balanced spirit which reminded me somewhat of a dry version of St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur. I am not a huge fan of maple flavor but their Maple Flavored Rum, made from Vermont maple syrup, was pleasant. It was dry and possessed a milder maple profile, once again also smooth and clean. Another well balanced spirit, you should check out both these rums.

In 2006, the Consejo Regulador Del Tequila (CRT), the ruling tequila body in Mexico, added a couple new tequila categories: Extra Anejo and Infused Blanco Tequila. Tanteo has taken advantage ot the later of the two categories and currently produces three Infused 100% De Agave Tequilas ($36-$40). Their inspiration was the fruit cups, topped with chiles, they found in Mexico. Their blanco tequilas, Jalapeno, Cocoa and Tropical, are infused with natural ingredients, such as organic jalapenos.

Their Jalapeno was my favorite of the three, and it is produced by infusing organic jalapenos, hand-sliced, which are mixed in a 10,000 gallon tank with the tequila. On the nose, there is some grassy notes as well as the typical agave, and on the palate, the tequila flavor was very prominent up front. On the finish, rather than the usual tequila bite, you ended up with a spicy and delicious jalapeno burn. It was not overly spicy, but very noticeable and I loved that heat. I could easily enjoy this on its own though it would make great cocktails as well.

The Cocoa is made with roasted, malted and raw cocoa, like a traditional mole, and has a little jalapeno added as well. It presented a strong cocoa flavor atop the tequila notes, a strange combo that actually worked, and certainly was intriguing, though not my personal preference for a spirit. Yet I could see it working well in the right cocktail. The only issue is that I didn't get much of a jalapeno kick to this tequila. The Tropical is infused with pineapple, mango, and guanabana, also known as soursop, and there was a little jalapeno added too. The tropical fruits added subtle flavors, enhancing the tequila, though again the jalapeno wasn't really assertive. I could see this tequila working well in a tropical cocktail.

The Macchu Pisco La Diablada is intended to be a high-end Peruvian Pisco and is currently not available in the U.S. but that will hopefully change soon. They only make 1000 bottles so even when it becomes available, it will be in very limited supply. La Diablada is a blend of 3 Pisco grapes: Quebranta, Moscatel and Italia. It is rested, not aged, for about 18 months and sees no oak. It is very aromatic with a smooth taste of herbs and fruit, with some underlying spiciness. A complex taste with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Though many know of the Pisco Sour, this is a Pisco that you might want to enjoy on its own, rather than as the base for a cocktail.

I love a good bourbon and the Rock Hill Farms Bourbon, produced at Buffalo Trace, really excited my palate. It is a single barrel, Kentucky Straight bourbon that is 100 proof, though you probably won't notice the alcohol is that high. It is an excellent sipping bourbon, smooth, complex and absolutely delicious with nice vanilla notes and intriguing spicy elements on the finish. This is definitely a bourbon I will add to my home bar.

Brendan Edwards of Third Wave Brands, a supplier of spirits and wines, presented several different brands (including Montanya Distillers, Delirio de Oaxaca, and Cariel Vodka) and I found them compelling.

Montanya Distillers, owned by Karen & Brice Hoskin, was founded in 2008 and is now located in Crested Butte, Colorado. which is is the West Elk Mountain range of southwest Colorado. They currently produce two rums, the Platino Light Rum and Oro Dark Rum. The rums are all natural, each made with only four ingredients, including water, sugar cane, yeast and honey. The water comes from Colorado mountain springs while the sugar cane is from Maui, Hawaii. At the time of bottling, a tiny bit of Colorado mountain honey is added to the rum.

The Oro is aged in a fresh, American oak whiskey barrel that previously held Stranahan's Colorado Whiskey. The Oro was a fine sipping rum, with a pleasant blend of flavors, including vanilla, honey, caramel, and mocha hints. I really enjoyed it and would drink it both straight or in a cocktail. The Platino is aged in a barrel that once aged Oro, so the barrel has far less effect on the rum. The Platino is also filtered and I found it to be very aromatic, a lighter rum with vanilla and herbal notes. For me, it would be best used in a cocktail.

Delirio de Oaxaca is a traditional palenque in Matatlan, Oaxaca, producing Mezcal by Master Distiller Fernando Santibanez. The Mezcal Joven is double distilled in copper alembics from 100% Agave Espadin and only 10,000 bottles were produced. It had an intriguing smoky nose with a prominent taste of agave fruit and a mild smokiness. Quite tasty and I could drink it on its own or in a cocktail. The Mezcal Reposado has been aged for about 4 months in lightly toasted American oak and only 5000 bottles were produced. It had a lighter nose of smoke, and on the palate it was softer and more subtle, with the same delicious fruit flavors and hints of smoke. Again, another winner.

Cariel Vodka was created by Master Blender Peter Carlson in Sweden, who desired to create a vodka with natural flavor and the product just came on the U.S. market in July. It is produced from Swedish winter wheat and barley, as well as glacial water from Lake Vattern. I found the vodka to have an almost subtle sweetness to the aroma, with an intriguing and smooth taste, elements of herbs, grain, and subtle peach flavors. It is definitely not a tasteless vodka but rather presents an enticing melange of subtle tastes. I was impressed. They also produce a Vanilla Vodka, made with the addition of vanilla from Southern India and Madagascar. It had a big, bold vanilla aroma and flavor, yet it remains only mildly sweet, not cloying like many other flavored vodkas. I can see this working well in the right cocktail.

Koval Distillery, founded in 2008, was the first craft distillery in Chicago since Prohibition. The founders, Robert and Sonat Birnecker, gave up their academic careers to create the distillery. Using custom-made Kothe potsills, they produce organic and kosher liqueurs and whiskey. The whiskey is made in small batches from 100% Midwest organic grain from Midwest and aged in 30 gallon organic oak from a Minnesota cooperage.

My favorite of the three I tasted was the Lion's Pride Dark Rye, made from 100% Rye. It presented nice vanilla and bold spice flavors with hints of citrus. A nice sipping whiskey. The Lion's Pride Dark Millet had a more earthy flavor with vanilla accents. The Lion's Pride 47th Ward is made from a mash bill of rye, wheat, oat and malted barley, and is aged in heavily charred oak. Each grain is distilled separately. This is a complex and spicy whiskey, but at 94 proof, you probably need to add a little water to mute some of the alcoholic heat.

In general, I am not much of a Gin guy because I find too many gins with a strong juniper taste. But, I have found myself enjoying much more the ancestor to gin, Genever, which is made with numerous botanicals and where any juniper flavor is far more subtle. Veronique Beittel is the owner of Flemish Lion, an importing company, based in Vermont, of Belgium Genever. She even has an informative website of information about Genever. At the Summit, she was showcasing two Genevers from Diep9.

The Diep Young Genever is distilled using 19th century techniques, hand crafted in a traditional copper pot at De Moor, Belgium's smallest family owned distillery. It is produced with a combination of rye, wheat, malted barley, and nine botanicals. Those botanicals include juniper berries, sweet orange peel, blessed thistle, carob, nutmeg, guinea pepper, angelica root, cinnamon and coriander. I liked the herbal blend on this spirit, which was relatively smooth and easy drinking. I think the key was the balance of the botanicals, that none of them seemed to overpower the others. The Diep9 Old Genever is distilled using 16th century techniques and is barrel aged for two years in French oak. It is also packaged in an old style clay bottle. Though it too has a balanced, herbal taste there is also a deeper, earthier element, which really intrigued me. Try these Genevers and let them open your eyes to the possibilities.

Palm Bay International is a distributor of wines and spirits and they showcased several of their products at the Summit, from mezcal to whiskey.

Los Amantes, which translates as "the lovers" and is inspired by an ancient Aztec legend, produces Mezcal  made of 100% agave from Oaxaca. Only a small supply of this traditionally produced spirit is available in the U.S. The Joven has about 2 months of barrel aging and the nose had a mild smokiness with a bit of brininess as well. On the palate, it was smokier, with strong fruit flavors and a nice smoothness to the finish. Delicious and easy drinking. The Reposado has been aged for about 6 months in American oak and its taste was superb, a complex melange of flavors, smokiness and subtle accents of fruit. An excellent sipping spirit, it is highly recommended.

The Bastille 1789 is a French blended whisky hand-crafted in the Cognac region and produced from barley and wheat grown in northeast France. Their water derives from the Gensac Spring and it is naturally filtered through limestone. It has been finished in French Limousin oak casks. It was an intriguing whiskey, with a complex blend of flavors, with orange notes, dried fruits, honey and Christmas spices. There was a mild earthy backbone, and it was smooth and easy drinking with a satisfying finish.

The Irishman, founded in 1999 by Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, produce a line of Irish whiskey based products. The Original Clan is a pot still blend of 70% single malt and 30% pure pot still. It was triple distilled and matured in bourbon casks. This was produced in a pre-Prohibition style and is said be be a "gateway" Irish whiskey. This is a delightful sipping whiskey, with delicious flavors of caramel, honey, vanilla and butterscotch as well as slight undertones of pepper and spice. It goes down so easy and lingers in your mouth for a long time. I can understand why so many people will enjoy this whiskey.

The Single Malt is produced from 100% malted barley, was triple distilled and then matured in first-fill bourbon and sherry oak casks. Only 1000 cases of this whiskey were made. This is a more serious whiskey, being complex, subtle and intriguing. There is less sweetness than the Original Clan and a bit more spice, and the finish is even longer and more pleasing. This is definitely a whiskey to slowly sip and savor, and will appeal to whiskey aficionados.

The Superior Irish Cream is a blend of real Irish cream and 100% Irish whiskey, with added hints of vanilla and toffee. All of the ingredients are natural and it does not contain any thickening agents or artificial ingredients. It is based on an old family recipe and was a satisfying pleasure. There is a thick, creaminess to the drink and the whiskey flavors are not hidden in the least. It does not taste artificial in any way, and with winter approaching, you might want to stock up on a couple bottles for those chilly evenings. Add a bit to your coffee or tea, or just drink it on its own.

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Boston Cocktail Summit: How The Spirits Industry Works

"In sales, you need a story."
--Sam Rubenstein

That is a truism, something I have also stated on multiple occasions before. Stories can fascinate and intrigue consumers, creating an emotional connection which would be missing otherwise. And if you consult the studies and science, it is that emotional connection which plays a very significant role in consumer behavior. Storytelling has been a part of our history and culture from the very beginnings of time and it still resonates deep within our souls.

At the Boston Cocktail Summit, the first seminar I attended was "How The Spirits Industry Works," which was led by Brandy Rand, a writer and consultant with 12 years in the beverage alcohol industry in marketing and PR, and Sam Rubenstein, one of the owners of Horizon Beverage, a New England distributor of wine, beer and spirits. This was a more educational seminar, full of history, laws and statistics yet Brandy and Sam kept it lively and interesting.

The discussion began with an explanation of the Three Tier system, the manner in which alcohol gets from the supplier/manufacturer to the retailer, via the middlemen of wholesalers/distributors. That topic could have easily been the focus of its own seminar. It was stated that a significant reason for this system is to more easily collect taxes. It is amazing that approximately 55% of the price of a bottle of spirits is a tax of some type. Spirits get taxed more than wine and beer and that can be seen in the federal excise tax. For distilled spirits, the tax is about $14.50 per proof gallon while it is only $6.18 for beer and $4.86 for wine.

It was noted as well that the Three Tier system can limit consumer choice, that some small brands can have difficulty gaining access to the market. In addition, in some states, a supplier/manufacturer must stay with their original distributor and cannot leave even if that distributor does a poor job of selling their products. We didn't get into an involved debate over the advantages and disadvantages of the Three Tier system, but the presenters did acknowledge some of the pluses and minuses.

We moved on to some specific laws dealing with Massachusetts, though also setting a foundation with the standard industry drink sizes. That includes 12 oz. beer, 8 oz, malt, 4.5 oz. wine, 3.5 oz. fortified wine, 2.5 oz. cordial/liqueur, and 1.5 oz. shot of 80 proof spirits. Since 1994 in Massachusetts, you can now get a Cordial & Liqueur license, which allows you to sell some spirits but the determination of which spirits are permissible is based on sugar content and not alcohol content. The Cordial/Liqueur must contain at least 2.5% sugar, and the proof level is irrelevant. That license allows restaurants and bars to create unique cocktails form cordials and liqueurs.
 
With the potential advent of casinos in Massachusetts, the issue of Happy Hours has risen once again. Currently, establishments cannot provide discount pricing for liquor for a Happy Hour, though discount pricing is permitted if it lasts for an entire week. Casinos often provide free cocktails and they will likely seek to provide such in Massachusetts as well. So there have been some calling for Massachusetts Happy Hour laws to change. Yet Sam claimed that the vast majority of Boston restaurants and bars are actually against lifting the Happy Hour restrictions.

For many bars and restaurants, they usually make the greatest margin from alcohol and not food. So, if they have to discount their alcohol, they often will cut deeper into their margin than if they offered a discount on their food. So there is a clear business reason why they might oppose lifting Happy Hour laws. In addition, as Happy Hours tend to make people drink more, that can heighten the potential liability of restaurants and bars for drunk patrons.

Now on to some statistical information, mainly concerning spirits, figures which certainly intrigued me. We begin with the fact that about 110 million Americans legally drink alcohol. Spirits production, sales and consumption have been rising in the U.S. In 2011, the value of spirits increased by 2.7% while spirit exports reached a high of $1.34 billion. Of that export figure, about 69% consisted of American whiskey and the European Union purchased about 47% of that whiskey.

In the U.S. market, the share of spirits has risen 4.2% since 2000. Currently, the market is divided into 52.2% beer, 31.8% spirits and 15% wine. Since 1995, shares of wine and spirits have both increased while shares of beer have actually decreased. In 1995, beer occupied a 61% share, but we can see that has dropped nearly 9%. I think spirits have gained market share because of the boom in more artisan and high end spirits that are now entering the market. Twenty years ago, spirit selections were much more limited but now the selections almost seem endless. The added choice is certainly welcome.

Yet, despite all these added choices, it is difficult for a small brand. Currently, about 25 brands occupy 45% of the spirits volume in the U.S. The top 5 brands are Smirnoff, Bacardi, Captain Morgan, Jack Daniels and Absolut. It takes at least 5 years for a brand to reach big name recognition. Since 2009, there have been about 1800 new spirit products although most of those were merely line extensions, different flavors of a known brand, many which will come and go. It is interested that growth in the "super premium" category has grown +8.9%.

As for individual spirit categories, it is also interesting to see what has been popular, the changes that have occurred from 2010 to 2011. Vodka continues to reign supreme, growing 6%, and selling about 65.8 million cases. Considering other spirits, rum has risen 1.3% (25.8 million), tequila has risen 3.8% (12 million), American whiskey has risen 5% (20.85 million) and Irish whiskey had a huge jump, up 23.9% (1.76 million). Brandy & cognac remained at the same level (10.37 million) though a few other spirits saw a decline. Gin decreased 2% (10.8 million), cordials decreased 1.2% (19.4 million) and even Scotch decreased 1.4% (8.5 million).

Another reason for the increased market share of spirits may also be due to the growth of microdistillers across the country. If we look back in history, to around 1800, we know that there were over 14,000 distilleries in the U.S. Fast forward to 1993, and there were only about 60 microdistillers around, a microdistiller being one which produces less than 40,000 cases annually. Now, there are over 250 microdistillers across the country, with new ones sprouting up all the time.

Overall this seminar was quite fascinating, with plenty of valuable information, and it would have been even better if it had been longer as there was much more they could have discussed. As the first seminar I attended, it set an excellent and positive foundation for the others to come. Fortunately, all of the seminars I attended were worthwhile, both educational and entertaining.

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Boston Cocktail Summit: Overall Impressions

What is your favorite spirit or cocktail?

The city of Boston has a rich and vibrant history of alcohol, distilling, cocktails, bars, restaurants, speakeasies, bartenders, mixologists and much more. The rest of Massachusetts and New England has a similar history as well. So it is only appropriate that there be a festival to celebrate all such matters, to reach back into this fascinating history as well as to blaze a path for the future.

Consider the fact that the spirits category now occupies 31.8% of the US alcohol market, a figure that has been slowly increasing over the years. In comparison, wine occupies only 15%, a figure that is increasing, while beer occupies 53.2%, which has actually been decreasing over the years. Spirits are very popular and cocktails are all the rage.

The first annual Boston Cocktail Summit has now come to a close. For three days, Thursday through Saturday, there was a gathering of bartenders and mixologists, spirit and cocktail lovers, distillers and vendors, authors and readers, and others as well. The Summit was not just for industry people but was open to any and all who had an interest or love of spirits and cocktails. There were a myriad of events, from educational seminars to tasting rooms, from author signings to elaborate parties.

I attended all three days of the festival as a media guest, and overall I was very happy with the festival. As it was their first festival, there were definitely some challenges and logistical problems, but the concept and the content showed great potential and I eagerly await next year's event.

Most of the Summit events were held in two hotels, the Royal Sonesta in Cambridge and the Boston Park Plaza. A few of the other events, especially on Thursday, were held at different locations, such as local bars and restaurants, from Citizen Public House to The Black Rose. You essentially paid only for the events you wished to attend, with the average cost per event being $25-$35 though there were some free events as well. If you wanted to attend all three days, you could also purchase a special 3 day Summit Pass for $325, which garnered you a savings of at least $200.

There was a great diversity of events, from cocktail parties at local bars, like the National Vodka Day Party at Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale, to over 50 seminars & panel discussions on a wide range of spirit and cocktail topics. There were book signings in the Author's Lounge and a pop-up branch of The Boston Shaker cocktail supply store. You could taste a myriad of spirits and cocktails in the various tasting rooms, from local craft distillers to some of the big name brands. There was plenty to do, and much to sample and drink. You certainly had to monitor your alcohol intake or you might end up slurring and staggering the halls. Fortunately, the attendees seemed to be careful and I didn't notice any problems with drunken people wandering the halls.

A number of well known spirits and cocktail experts attended the event, including Tony Abou-Ganim, Wayne Curtis, Dale DeGroff, Paul Pacult, David Wondrich and others. They signed their books, led seminars and hung out with everyone at the various parties. There were also a number of local celebrities who attended, some of the top bartenders, mixologists, writers and others, in the city. You could also meet and chat with numerous distillers, some local, who were presenting their spirits in the tasting rooms. Everyone I met was very personable and down to earth. Just a bunch of cool people who like to drink.

There was an air of fun and festivity throughout the Summit. Kind of hard not to have fun when there is so much alcohol freely flowing. Everyone I met was very friendly and there was a nice sense of community within the halls. Even got to meet a couple people I had previously known only online. The event was not overly crowded so you were able to relax and leisurely talk with the vendors in the various tasting rooms, learning much about their products. I know that some people were concerned about the seeming low attendance level, but it was difficult to fully assess that number of attendees when they were split between two hotels. We also have to realize that this was only the first Summit, and even more people are likely to attend next year. I think it was a great start.

With over 50 seminars available, they covered a wide range of interesting topics and it was tough to decide on which events I wanted to attend. Some of the seminars were geared more toward industry people while others would appeal to any lover of spirits and cocktails. There were seminars teaching you how to make cocktails while others allowed you to taste a variety of spirits. Whiskey, vodka, rum, gin, pisco, mezcal, amari, tequila, absinthe and more were showcased in these seminars. There was plenty of practical information available and I wished I had been able to attend many more of the seminars.

I ended up attending four seminars, with logistics preventing me from being able to easily attend more, but I very much enjoyed all four. The speakers did very well, the content was interesting, and each seminar was both educational and entertaining. The panels I attended included: How The Spirits Industry Works, The Subtle Nuances of Vodka, Jameson Black Barrel and The Resurrection of an Icon: Rum on the Rise. I will be posting more about these seminars in the next couple weeks.

The Bacardi 150th Anniversary Party went with a 1950s Havana theme and they did a great job of imbuing that ambiance into the party. At these parties, the bartenders were preparing numerous cocktails, and it was an open bar so you could taste and try a number of different drinks. The Beam's Bourbon County BBQ was a bit of a let down as many attendees were expecting more of a dinner event but it ended up being only some passed appetizers. The hungry attendees mobbed the servers as they entered the patio and those servers didn't make it ten feet inside before their plates were empty. The event description should have been much more specific on the nature of the event.

In the tasting rooms, I spent plenty of time on Saturday sampling a variety of spirits and cocktails, finding some new ones which greatly appealed to me. A jalapeno infused Tequila, rum from Colorado, smoky Mezcal, an elderflower rum from Vermont, compelling Irish Whiskey, Pisco cocktails and much more. New England distilleries and spirit producers were well represented. This was a great opportunity to check out new products as well as others of which I was unaware. In the next couple weeks, I will be sharing my discoveries with my readers.

Sweet Potato Tots! Obviously, as I spent plenty of time at the Sonesta, that meant I had to stop by the ArtBar, at least a couple times, to snack upon some crisp, lightly sweet and delicious tater tots. I was far from alone and I watched many an order of tater tots exit the kitchen. They make a great cocktail snack, or a side dish with lunch or dinner.

My main complaint with the Summit were the logistics of running the event in two separate hotels. As these hotels were a distance apart, this caused difficulties as you almost had to choose to remain at one hotel or the other for much of the day, or otherwise waste time in traveling and miss certain events. When I signed up for the Summit, I had carefully chosen my events, trying to arrange my schedule around the two hotels so any travel was minimal. Unfortunately, the Summit had to reorganize matters at the last minute, changing the locations of numerous events. That led to my schedule no longer being a good choice so I had to adjust.

For example, I attended a seminar at the Park Plaza and once it ended, my next seminar, which started right away, had been rescheduled for the Royal Sonesta. There was no way I could get to that other hotel in 5 minutes so I couldn't attend that seminar. The organizers though did allow people to attend a different seminar if such a situation arose. Having all of the events at one hotel would easily resolve those issues, and the organizers seem cognizant that it was a problem this year. So I expect next year they will work on that matter.

We need to remember that this was the first time this event has been held, so there were bound to be such logistical issues. What was most important, the concept, content and passion, were clearly evident and the lessons learned this year will create an even better Summit next year. I enjoyed myself very much at the Summit, and it was educational, informative, tasty and fun. Others I spoke to also seemed to enjoy many of the events, and they would be likely to return again next year. Kudos to the organizers of the Boston Cocktail Summit for all their time and effort in bringing this event to a reality. Let us look forward to an even better event next year

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