Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) With the best Spanish wine list in the Boston area, Taberna de Haro now carries 325 wines, including 45 Sherries. And now they are holding the "The Quintessential Wine Tasting" on Wednesday, September 18, at 7pm. Kerin Auth of Olé Imports will come and lead a tasting of seven different wines.

Kerin has made over 30 trips to Spain and even lived in Sevilla for a year. During the last seven years of her career, she owned and operated Tinto Fino, a wine shop in Manhattan dedicated to selling Spanish wines exclusively. Now shuttered, I was a big fan of that wine shop. Kerin represents a portfolio within the company called "Península" which has a highly allocated selection of wines. That simply means "rare and special." Only 52 establishments around the country are allowed to buy wine from this unique collection, and Taberna de Haro is one of them.

Chef Hansen calls this "Quintessential" because you will experience some of Spain's most important grapes - in their very purest form. All the winemakers in this portfolio are crazily committed to a clarity of expression, and they see no boundaries in attaining this. The infamous Raul Perez is represented here, as is Antonio Barbadillo of Sanlucar de Barrameda (Jerez) fame. Here is the list of wines we'll taste and there will likely be an extra surprise wine or two.

Manzanilla AB Sacristía (palomino from Sanlucar de Barrameda)
Totus Tuus Reserve Brut Cava (xarel-lo, macabeu, parellada chardonnay, pinot noir from Penedés)
Leirana Albariño 2011 (albariño from Rias Baixas)
Tampesta Finca de los Vientos 2010 (prieto picudo from Tierra de Leon)
La Vizcarra 2010 (tempranillo or tinto fino from Ribera del Duero)
La Vitoriana (mencia from Bierzo)
Elo (monastrell from Yecla

The cost is $50 per person (plus tax & gratuity) and Chef Hansen is working on the menu, It will include food pairings both classic and innovative. For Reservations, email deborah@tabernaboston.com or call 617-277-8272.

2) Tavolo, in Dorchester, is hosting its next Cheap Flights to Italy on Monday, September 9, for only $25 per person. You will receive 3 wines paired with 3 regional tastings, and this installment's country is Sardinia,

The Menu is:
First Glass: 2011 Botromagno, Gravina Greco/Malvasia Blend
Paired with Seafood First Bite: Artisan Bread & tomato stuffed Squid
Second Glass: 2010 Argiolas, Cannonau Di Sardegna, which has great body
Paired with Lamb Second Bite: Braised Lamb with Fettuccine & Sheep's Milk Ricotta
Last Glass: 2011 Vallebelbo, Moscato d' Asti, a sweet indulgent treat to finish.
Last Bite: Traditional Sardinian Almond Cookie

3) On Thursday, September 19, The Beehive gets undressed during Diamonds and Pearls, a sultry burlesque performance in partnership with Moët & Chandon and Domaine Chandon. From 9pm-1am, one of New York City’s busiest burlesque performers Calamity Chang, also known as “The Asian Sexsation,” will be joined by the “Go-Go Pussycat,” Lil’ Steph and quintessential pin-up queen Bettina May for a mid-week break proving that you don’t have to be dressed to impress.

The tantalizing beauties will take the stage at 9pm as DEFTrio, a groovin’ jazz trio heats up The Beehive for a night of classic burlesque. Guests are encouraged to make it “dinner and a show” as Executive Chef Rebecca Newell serves her eclectic fare and delicious dishes from The Beehive’s menu from 5pm-2am. All evening show-goers can sip on bubbly from sponsors Moët & Chandon and Domaine Chandon, and toast the night out with a special champagne cocktail!

To make reservations for dinner and a show, please call (617) 423-0069

4) It is time for the 8th annual Heirloom Tomato Festival at Bistro 5 in Medford. From September 10-28, you can enjoy a Special 3 or 5 Course Tasting Menu, with or without wine pairings, which features a variety of heirloom tomatoes. I attended last year's Tomato dinner and it was certainly a delicious and compelling event. I hope to attend again this year and strongly urge my readers to go as well.

Menu
--Pappa al Pomodoro (Bread-Tomato soup and Lardo Crostini)
2012 Le Salse, Verdicchio, Metalica
--Fried Green Tomatoes (Green Zebra, Burrata and Black Olive "Soil")
2011 Cantina Santa Maria La Palma, Vermentino Aragosta, Sardegna
--Black Cavatelli (Pineapple Tomato and Lobster)
2011 Domaine Brazilier, Coteaux du Vendomois
--Rohan Duck (Smoked Speckled Roman Tomato and Thai Basil Creme Brulee, Sweet and Sour Butternut Squash and Pickled Ginger
2010 Gran Sasso, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
--Tomatina (Organic Peach Tomato Mousse, Basil Yogurt Gelato, Vanilla Bean Crème Anglaise and Sweet Pistachio Pesto)
2010 Elio Perrone 'Bigarò', Brachetto d'Aqui

Tasting Menu: Five Course: $75 per person; Three Course: $49 per person
Wine Pairing: Five Course: $25 per person; Three Course: $20 per person

Reservations available online or by phone 781-395-7464

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Learning Risotto at Lucia Ristorante

"Risotto – when made correctly – speaks of Italy."
--Lidia Bastianich

I've been pondering which risotto to make later this week, whether a traditional Risotto alla Milanese or something a bit more creative such as a Pear & Gorgonzola Risotto. Last week, I wrote about Risotto: Origins, Variations & Rice, giving some background and basics on this compelling Italian dish. In addition last week, I attended a Risotto cooking class, as a media guest, at Lucia Ristorante, learning how to prepare three different risotto dishes as well as using risotto to make Arancini. The class was informative and useful, tasty and fun, and I certainly would recommend that my readers attend future cooking classes at Lucia.

Earlier this year, Owner Donato Frattaroli (pictured on the right side) and Executive Chef Pino Maffeo (pictured on the left), began teaching monthly cooking classes at Lucia Ristorante in Winchester. Some of their prior classes covered Soups & Stocks, Artisan Pizza Making, Salads & Vinaigrettes, and Pasta. Each class runs about three hours, includes a meal, and costs $50-$60, making it an excellent value too. Their next class, which should be in September, will cover Preserving & Canning, and when I have more info, I will post about it in one of my future Sips & Nibbles columns.

"If you're cooking for a woman, make a good risotto and a salad."
--Wolfgang Puck

The Risotto class was popular, and there were ten attendees, though the class size is usually kept around five to seven. Originally, we were supposed to learn how to prepare Saffron Risotto, Wild Mushroom Risotto, and Seafood Risotto but at the class Chef Pino and Donato also decided to teach us how to prepare Arancini. Initially, we sat at tables for a brief intro about risotto, led by both Chef Pino and Donato, and soon enough we moved to a kitchen for a more hands-on lesson about preparing risotto.

I've attended other chef cooking classes at local restaurants and they often can be far more demonstrations, rather than having the attendees do much of the cooking. This class though immersed the attendees in both preparation as well as cooking, from dicing up onions and cleaning squid to sauteing mushrooms and cooking the rice. Demonstrations have value, but actual experience at cooking recipes is invaluable, elevating this cooking class above many others.

Chef Pino began by trying to assure us that making risotto is "pretty easy" as well as telling us that "there are no rules." There is no singular method to prepare risotto, and you will find plenty of chefs giving different advice. For example, though many claim that stirring risotto constantly is absolutely necessary, there are others, including Chef Pino, who disagree. It was also interesting to see when Chef Pino and Donato disagreed about certain aspects of risotto preparation, further proof that risotto is not a singular dish. For example, Chef Pino has no issue with using butter to finish a risotto but Donato would never do so, using only olive oil.

Risotto is also a versatile dish, and you can prepare it with a huge variety of different ingredients, dependent on your preferences. Even in Italy, you will find many different versions of risotto, with everything from asparagus to frogs. You can use any type of wine, from whites to reds, or even sake or beer. We used Arborio rice for our risottos, primarily because it is the easiest risotto rice for home cooks to find at nearly any market. Chef Pino mentioned to me though that he actually has had good results from using sushi rice!

"There are no two ways of making risotto; either you make it right, or it is not risotto."
--Lidia Bastianich

Trhoughout the class, Chef Pino and Donato showed us how to prepare and cook certain aspects of risotto and then they had us replicate those methods. Though they prepared much of the saffron risotto, they still had some of the attendees contribute to its cooking, such as stirring the rice after stock was added. Then, the attendees did most of the work in preparing the other two risottos. For example, I cooked much of the seafood risotto, from sauteing the onions, to constantly stirring the rice, letting the rice absorb the stock. Standing at a hot stove, stirring and stirring, while the rice plumped from the seafood stock, waiting until it reached the right consistency, with an al dente core.

Risotto actually doesn't take much skill, more just patience and observation. Work with quality ingredients and that will enhance your final product. Overall, it will take around 25 minutes to cook your risotto, and it will be well worth your time. You can make it as an entree or a side dish, and it can be created to accompany near any main dish. If anything, this class helped people to learn not to fear risotto preparation, which can seem intimidating. I know plenty of people who think it is too difficult at home, yet that is not truly the case.

"Kids today want to eat their risotto with curry and shrimp and sour cream, not risotto alla Milanese, like they should, in my opinion."
--Mario Batali

Above, are two photos of Saffron Risotto, also known as Risotto Alla Milanese. The first photo shows it while it is in the preparatory stages, while the second shows the final product: yellow, creamy and delicious. That is one of the simplest risottos to prepare, but it doesn't lack in flavor. Traditionally, it is served with Osso Buco, braised veal shank. Making this risotto would be a good place to start for a home cook, to better comprehend the steps of making risotto.

For the Mushroom Risotto, we used a combination of Chanterelles, Portabella, Oyster and Shitake mushrooms, though you can use any type of mushrooms that you like. Chef Pino also recommended using mushroom salt in the preparation, as well as a bit of truffle oil, to enhance the savory flavor of this dish. This dish is a huge burst of umami flavor and would pair well with an umami-rich Sake, such as a Kimoto or Yamahai-style.

For the Seafood Risotto, Chef Pino had recently caught a number of squid in the Boston Harbor, and you can't get much fresher than that. So, the attendees had to clean those squids before they were ready to be used in the risotto. It was a funny coincidence that on the same evening of the class, some of the contestants on Masterchef also had to clean fresh squid.

The Seafood Risotto was made with clams, shrimp, mussels, calamari, and some red sauce, and I largely cooked the rice. This was probably the most complicated of the three dishes, because of the added prep, such as cleaning the squid, as well as the need to cook all of the seafood. Each component is not difficult, but you need to be well organized to be able to have everything ready at the proper time. This is the type of risotto that works well as a main dish.

As a special addition, we also learned how to prepare Arancini, rice balls. Each of us got to make an arancini, though Chef Pino cooked the prepared arancini for us. We began by preparing a half-sphere of saffron risotto and filled it with some Bolognese sauce and shredded cheese. Then we covered it with more risotto, shaping the result into a sphere. Afterward, it was rolled into a slurry mixture and then covered by panko. The first picture above shows the arancini before they were cooked. Again, this is a recipe that might seem difficult but it really wasn't.

After all of the preparation and cooking, we sat down at a large table together to enjoy the fruits of our labor. With glasses of wine, I ate some of all three risottos and one of the arancini, and everything was delicious. Each risotto was creamy and rich, yet possessed of its own unique flavors. If I had to choose one as my favorite, I probably would have to go with the mushroom risotto because of its explosion of umami.

I feel more confident about cooking risotto and will prepare it at home. It will probably take more trial and error at home, but I have taken some major steps in the right direction. This was a worthy cooking class and Chef Pino and Donato were fine instructors, making you feel comfortable in the kitchen and making it all fun as well as educational. I will likely take additional cooking classes at Lucia and strongly recommend that my readers do so as well.

Maybe I will try to make the Risotto with Four Cheeses, which contains Gruyère, Taleggio, Gorgonzola and Parmesan.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) After 28 years, Chef/Owner Steve DiFillippo is making his way back to his hometown with the opening of Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse in Lynnfield at the new Market Street Lynnfield shopping complex. Growing up in Lynnfield, DiFillippo’s passion for food began when he would rush home after long football practices to cook with his mom and learn all the DiFillippo family recipes passed down by his Italian grandmother.

“After opening Davio’s restaurants in multiple locations including Boston’s Back Bay, Chestnut Hill, Foxborough, Atlanta and Philadelphia, it is an honor to open in my own hometown. I always dreamed of opening my own restaurant in Lynnfield, this is where I grew up and is a very special homecoming for me.” – Steve DiFillippo

Under the leadership of DiFillippo, Culinary Director Rodney Murillo, Executive Chef Stephen Brown and General Manager Joe Buccieri, Davio’s Lynnfield will offer an array of daily lunch and dinner specials, while engaging guests with signature menu options, including Davio’s classics, fresh salads, handmade pastas, an a la carte section, Prime Brandt Beef and plated entrées.

The menu will include the following dishes ranging from $8 to $31: Tagliatelle Bolognese (braised veal, beef, pork, tomato sauce); Lobster Risotto (Asparagus, Fresh Herbs, Lobster Cream); Roasted Tomato Soup (goat cheese, chive crostini); Crispy Chicken Livers (port balsamic glaze, glass spinach, toasted pine nuts); Kobe Beef Meatball (San Marzano tomatoes) and Warm Spinach Salad (roasted peppers, portobello mushrooms, goat cheese, garlic, olive oil).

Pasta lovers can look forward to a selection of Farinacei (handmade pastas) such as Hand-Rolled Potato Gnocchi (organic mushrooms, basil, white truffle oil); Fettucine Carbonara (pancetta, egg, parmigiano, black pepper) and Spaghetti, Shrimp (hot chilies, white wine, lemon, olive oil) all prepared in house using the “La Monferrina” pasta machine imported from Italy. This new Technology allows for the production of delicious dry pasta in various shapes and sizes, all out of one machine.

While dining at the bar, Chef Stephen Brown has carefully crafted a selection of artisan, handmade pizzas. Priced from $12 to $16 and comprised of classic pizzas such as San Marzano Tomato (fresh mozzarella, basil); Prosciutto (fig jam, arugula, caramelized onions, shaved parmigiano) and Pepperoni. All of the handmade pizzas are cooked in the all-new wood stone oven. This oven heats up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, cooking the pizza evenly from the bottom and top simultaneously for a crisp and bubbly crust.

Davio’s Lynnfield’s beverage menu includes a vast selection of spirits, premium alcohol and refreshing mixers, in addition to an array of signature cocktails such as the Pompelmo (Absolut Ruby Red, St. Germain, Grapefruit Juice); Davio’s Inferno (Stoli Hot, Fresh Lime Juice, Splash of Red Pepper Flake-Infused Simple Syrup) and Melagrano (Reyka, Pama, Fresh Lime Juice, Cranberry Juice, Splash of Rhubarb Bitters) priced at $11. Offering nearly 250 labels, the varied wine collection is comprised of red, white and sparkling wines from Italy, France and the United States, 20 of which are available by the glass ranging in price from $9 to $16. Paying special attention to its Italian heritage, Davio’s Lynnfield has placed particular emphasis on sourcing from Italy’s Tuscany and Piedmont regions. Taking serious wine connoisseurs into account, a special reserve selection featuring over 20 red and white wines by the bottle are also available.

2) Every Monday night from September 2, the bar at Tavolo will become an enoteca whose theme is Cheap Flights to Italy.  Eclectic bottles of regional Italian wines -- drawn from the identical 20 regions of Italy that are explored each week at Tavolo'’s popular Regional Pasta Tour -- will be featured in combination with three small plates of matching food. Each week, a stamp will be made in the diner’s personal Wine Passport, stored at the restaurant. Cheap Flights to Italy with small plates, hosted by Tavolo sommelier Monica Bolduc, cost $25 per person.

3) Executive Chef Eric Gburski is adding signature southern comfort dishes to the existing “Burger Joint” lunchtime menu at Estelle’s Southern Cuisine in the South End. In addition to the five burger options and four gourmet salads, Chef Grburksi will offer a taste of the south with Po Boy’s and an array of authentic southern plates.

For starters, there are five options: Buttermilk Fried House Pickles ($5.25); Spicy Smoked Chicken Liver Deviled Eggs ($3.95); Tasso Ham Hushpuppies (orange-chile honey & parsley butter - $5.95); Buttermilk Fried Chicken Thigh (watermelon-radish salad & BBQ sauce -$6.95); and, Traditional Sausage & Smoked Chicken Gumbo ($8.95).

Chef Gburski’s Po Boy’s are served with house-cut fries and a variety of sauces and will be as follows: Estelle’s Monte Cristo (smoked turkey, tasso ham, gruyere cheese & red onion jam - $11.95); Slow Roasted Brisket & Smoked Provolone (pickled hot pepper relish & roasted garlic aioli - $10.95); and, Fried Gulf White Shrimp (green tomato – corn chow chow & remoulade slaw - $12.95).

Savory southern entrees include: Buttermilk Fried Chicken Platter (sausage gravy, 2 cheese mac n’ cheese & seared greens - $17.95); and, Cajun Cornmeal Crusted Catfish (pecan-parsley relish, red beans n’ rice & garlic seared greens -$19.95).

Estelle’s is open for lunch service Monday through Saturday from 11:30am to 5:00pm.

4) On Wednesday, September 11, at 6:30pm, Ristorante Olivio, located in Arlington, will host a four- course Italian wine dinner in conjunction with North of Boston Wine Week. The all-inclusive meal ($49 per person + tax and gratuity) consists of four courses with specially paired wines.  

MENU:
Antipasto
Carpaccio di Vitello (Charred veal tenderloin carpaccio, shaved parmigiano reggiano, capers, zest of lemon and celery, drizzled lemon with juice and white truffle oil)
Wine: Alfredo & Luca Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont)

Primi
(Choice of One)
Tortellini (Homemade sweet corn tortellini, with lobster meat, shaved zucchini, roasted cherries tomatoes, lobster and fresh herb broth)
Wine: Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Bianco (Campania)
or
Agnolotti (Homemade beef short rib Agnolotti, with fried zucchini, brown butter, shaved parmigiano and toasted bread crumbs)
Wine: Ascheri Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont)

Secondi
(Choice of One)
Filetto di Manzo (Filet Mignon, potato mash, crispy pancetta, braised rainbow chard, and Valpolicella reduction)
Wine: Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto)
or
Spigola con Salmoriglio (Sea Bass, with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley, fresh oregano and lemon, artichokes and zucchini)
Wine: Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany)

Dolce
Sicilian Cake (Rum cake, ricotta, chocolate, peaches, strawberries, whipped cream & pistachios)
Wine: Le Serra Moscato D’asti

Reservations recommended by calling (781) 648-2300.

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Risotto: Origins, Variations & Rice

"Rice is born in water and dies in wine."
--Italian proverb

Risotto (which means "little rice") is basically an Italian rice dish that has been cooked in a stock until it possesses a creamy consistency. It is a versatile dish, and can be prepared with many different, additional ingredients, from uni to mushrooms, peaches to tomatoes. Preparing risotto can take 25 minutes or more, and usually is said to require constant attention, continually stirring of the rice and stock. Because of that lengthy time, restaurants often partially premake their risotto as they usually wouldn't have the time to make risotto to order.

When done well, risotto can be absolutely delicious, with rich flavors and a delightful creaminess. I have savored some fine risottos at places like Prezza, Posto, A Tavola and Bistro 5. I have a special memory of an impressive Uni Risotto at Le Bernardin in New York City. Risotto is a dish I rarely have at home but which I should, and maybe that will change after the Risotto cooking class I will attend tomorrow night at Lucia Ristorante in Winchester.

“White rice with melted butter and white sugar is not of this world.”
--al-Asma’i

Rice has been known in Italy since the days of ancient Rome however they primarily used rice medicinally, and rarely as a food source. During the Middle Ages, probably around the 14th century, Italians began considering it more as a food and also started growing it, especially in the Lombardy region. The earliest documentation of rice cultivation in Italy dates to 1475 though it is assumed that cultivation actually began before that date. In Lombardy, the Po Valley was considered a perfect place for rice agriculture and rice soon became a staple in this region.

It is also important to note that after the Spanish took possession of the the Duchy of Milan, in the 16th century, they introduced the spice saffron to the region. Saffron is a pricey spice, and it too was once used far more for medicinal purposes rather than as a food ingredient. The Romans valued saffron, cultivating it in Gaul, but after the empire's fall, cultivation seemed to nearly vanish for a time until the Moors seemed to resurrect it. It is likely from the Moors than Spain became enamored with saffron and eventually brought it back to Italy.

"Don’t trust a hungry man to watch your rice."
--Tibetan Proverb

Common belief is that risotto originated in Lombardy sometime during the 16th century. Allegedly, some of the first rice dishes were prepared in a savory or sweet liquid, creating a soft, porridge-like dish and risotto eventually evolved from this dish. Maybe the most famous risotto, Risotto alla Milanese, which is made with saffron, has an "official" date of invention, September 8, 1574. In 2007, the City of Milan recognized several products, such as cassoeula, michetta, ossobuco, and panettone, as specifically Milanese, granting them a Recognition of Communal Denomination (De.Co.). Risotto received this designation as well and they selected September 8, 1574 as the date of birth of this dish.

This date of birth is derived from a legend about the origin of saffron risotto, and like most legends, has several different versions. In the main versions, while the famous Cathedral Duomo Di Milano was being constructed, a Master Glazer, Valerio di Fiandra was in charge of creating the stained glass windows. Saffron was using in preparing some of the colors for the stained glass. Most of the legends claim that one of his apprentices, either as a joke or an act of revenge for a perceived slight, added saffron to one of the rice dishes at a wedding feast, possibly the wedding of Valerio's daughter. The perpetrator of this act never thought that the guests would enjoy the saffron rice dish but they loved it, and Risotto alla Milanese was born. It is also part of the folklore that saffron is an aphrodisiac.

"Rice is the best, the most nutritive and unquestionably the most widespread staple in the world."
--Escoffier

Risotto alla Milanese may be one of the most well known of risotto dishes, but there are many variations in Italy. In Lombardy, you will also find risottos made with snails or pork cutlets. In Venice, they make Risotto al Nero di Sepia, a black risotto prepared with cuttlefish ink. You will also find risotto dishes in the Veneto made with pumpkin, shellfish, asparagus, smoked salmon, radicchio and even frog legs. In the Piedmont, you will find risotto prepared with Barolo wine, and maybe mushrooms, sausage or Borlotti beans. The Piedmontese city of Vercelli is well known for making risotto with frog, and they have even been celebrating a annual frog festival in September since the Middle Ages.

It is a dish that seems to lend itself to creativity, a simple base dish which can be enhanced by any number of ingredients. It can be used as a showcase of seasonal ingredients, and is appropriate year round. One of the most creative risottos I have tasted was made by Chef Vittorio Ettore of Bistro 5 who prepared a Peach Risotto with fresh peaches, Gorgonzola, Prosciutto di Parma & mint oil. I wasn't sure how the peaches would be in the risotto but it all worked so well. A nice blend of sweet, salt and tang.

“Without rice, even the cleverest housewife cannot cook.”
--Chinese proverb

Rice is the most basic component to risotto but not just any rice lead to a compelling dish. In general, you should use a short or medium grain rice with a high starch content. You probably could make a risotto from any type of rice, but the results might not be what you desire as each type of rice has its own different properties and not all rice varieties lend themselves to the chemistry of risotto. Besides the rice types, there are also designations for rice, indicative of their size and shape, such as Superfino, Semifino and Fino. Superfino is the largest grain and generally preferred for risotto. Three rice varieties are primarily used in risotto, including Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano, though you may also hear of varieties such as Baldo, Maratelli, Padano, and Roma.

Arborio rice is the least expensive of the 3 main types though it is not as starchy and doesn't absorb liquids as well as the other two types. It is also easier to overcook so care needs to be taken. Vialone Nano, popular in the Veneto, has more starch and produces a creamier risotto than Arborio. However, the purported king of rice is Carnaroli as it possess lots of starch, absorbs liquids well and the inner starch is firm, allowing the rice kernel to possess a firm texture even after it is cooked, a nice al dente. It is more expensive so the added quality comes with a price.

"Rice is a beautiful food. It is beautiful when it grows, precision rows of sparkling green stalks shooting up to reach the hot summer sun. It is beautiful when harvested, autumn gold sheaves piled on diked, patchwork paddies. It is beautiful when, once threshed, it enters granary bins like a (flood) of tiny seed-pearls. It is beautiful when cooked by a practiced hand, pure white and sweetly fragrant."
--Shizuo Tsuji

What are your thoughts on risotto? What are your favorite restaurants for risotto? What is your favorite risotto recipe? 

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Strega Prime: A Brief Lunch Review

Opened for less than two weeks, Strega Prime, located in Woburn at the site of the former Beacon Grille, is Nick Varano's third restaurant. Strega Prime is intended to be an upscale Italian steakhouse and it seems to fit that objective. I recently ate lunch there and will provide my thoughts though please keep in mind that the restaurant is newly opened and needs time to iron out the initial kinks that all new restaurants face.

Though it maintains a similar basic layout to the Beacon Grille, there have been some changes to the decor, from the "cow hide" bar stools to the multiple TV screens in the main dining room showing black & white movies.

Their wine list is extensive, with over 1300 selections, but it is pricey. For example, the Caymus Conundrum, at an average retail of $20, is on their list for $65. A 3 1/2 times markup on the retail is huge, especially considering the true markup is even higher.  "Upscale" shouldn't mean that wine prices are at such a high markup, catering to businessmen on expense accounts.

The Lunch menu is broken into Raw Bar, oysters or shrimp, ($14), 3 Salads ($7-$12), 2 Soups ($6-$7); 4 Appetizers ($9-$14), 3 Sandwiches ($12-$14), 3 Lunch Salads ($14-$18), 4 Lunch Specials ($14-$26) and 6 Desserts ($8-$9). For example, you could start with a Hand Chopped Beef Tartar ($9) and then get a 12 oz. Sirloin Burger ($14) with Parmesan Frites. Or a Shrimp Caesar Salad ($18) or even a Grilled Chicken Club ($12)

Lunch begins with a warm Popover, which though some see them as old-fashioned, I still enjoy. This was a nice popover, with what seemed like a dusting of parmesan atop it, and I smeared butter all along the eggy inside. A good start to lunch.

I then began my meal with the New England Corn & Clam Chowder ($6) which has crispy pancetta and parsley butter. Though it had a pleasant taste, and plenty of corn, lots of onions and tiny potatoes, it seemed to lack many clams. What clams seemed to be present were minced to tiny, almost unidentifiable pieces. It seemed like far more of a corn chowder, with some clam flavor, and not quite what I was expecting.

The Grilled Salmon ($19) comes with Yukon gnocchi, fresh peas, cherry tomatoes, and is in a white wine sauce. The large piece of fish was cooked well, and was tender and flavorful, complemented by the light white sauce. The gnocchi were well made, pillowy and tender. A good lunch choice.

The Chicken Milanese ($16), with capers, tomatoes, and baby arugula, has a light Marsala sauce which adds flavor to the chicken without swimming in it. It was a substantial piece, with moist, tender chicken covered by a crisp & clean coating. I was impressed with this dish and would order it again. Highly recommended for lunch.

For dessert, the Italian Smores ($9), with gianduja budino, marshmallow, & pizzelle, makes a cool presentation. It is also tasty, with rich, smooth chocolate, covered by sweet marshmallow, with a caramelized crust. You can either take your spoon to the chocolate and marshmallow, or smear it on a pizzelle. It is large enough to share, and I am sure both of you will enjoy it.

There were a couple services issues initially, basically a server who didn't pay attention to what told to him. In addition, another server was apparently soaked in a strong cologne and every time he passed by the table, you couldn't help but have your nose assailed by his cologne, detracting from lunch. These are issues though which hopefully will be fixed in the near future as the new restaurant works out its initial kinks.

I'll return here and report back on the progress of Strega Prime.  

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Changes At Posto: An Updated Review

Change has come to Posto and the intended objective is to make the restaurant even better than before. I have long been a fan of Posto so I was intrigued to see what the changes would bring. Last week, I was invited to a media dinner to check out some of those changes, and speak to them about what else might be coming for Posto. I am pleased to say that the quality of the food remains as high as ever.

Joseph Cassinelli, Chef & Owner of the Alpine Restaurant Group, recently named two inaugural positions including: Alec Riveros as Director of Operations and Chef Robert Jean as the Culinary Director of the group. Casssinelli and Riveros previously worked together in 2002 at Excelsior, where Cassinelli was Sous Chef and Riveros was the General Manager. Riveros was our host during the media dinner, answering our questions about the new changes. Additionally, at Posto, Chef Wyatt Maguire was named as Executive Chef and Vanessa Leesam named as Sous Chef (and they are pictured above). 

The menu has been revised in both substance and layout. It now is a single page menu, broken down into Antipasti (11 choices from $2.50-$14), Ensalate (4 choices from $10-$13), Paste (6 choices from $17-$19), Carne E Pesce (5 choices from $18-$26), and Pizze (12 choices from $11-$19). They have kept some of the long time favorites, like the Arancini and Nonna's Meatballs. The menu also changes around every 3-4 days, though only about 2-3 items change each time. Some of the changes are seasonal, such as taking the Bolognese and Carbonara off the summer menu though they will return when the hot weather is over. The menu continues to present plenty of diversity, an assortment of dishes that should appeal to all preferences.

They no longer offer Brunch though you could visit their other restaurant, The Painted Burro, for Brunch. (And if you go, get the meatloaf!) As for future changes to the Posto menu, they are considering the possibility of adding Charcuterie or even a Cheese program.

The beverage program has also seen some changes. The cocktail list now includes a selection of Aperitivo, Cocktails made with house infused spirits, house made limoncello and simple syrups, in addition to selections of local and international draft and bottled beer. Cocktails are generally priced $9-$12 and they carry about 15 beers and a pear cider, priced from $6-$9.

The wine list, which is about 90% Italian, offers 32 wines by the glass, priced $8-$22, with most $12 or under. They have some good diversity, including some more artisan wines, and they are seeking to expand their choices. Wines by the bottle are generally priced about $36-$100, however the markup on many of those wines is 3 times the usual retail, which means the markup from their cost is even higher. I would like to see a lesser markup, which I think would lead to increased wine sales. They are also seeking ways to keep their wines available by the glass at a better temperature.

We started the evening with an Aperol Spritz ($10/glass, $34/pitcher), made from Aperol, Prosecco, and Soda water. A pleasant and refreshing summer cocktail with a balance of sweet and bitter.

A couple Antipasti were initially brought to our table including Olivas ($5), warm olives with orange, rosemary, and chile de arbol.

We also received Pane ($2.50), hot loaves of rosemary sea salt bread, which use the same dough as they use for their pizza. This is a Posto classic that has been kept and as a bread lover, this gets my hearty recommendation. There is a spicy chili oil into which you can dip the bread, or just enjoy it on its own. The bread is also perfect for dipping into some of the other dishes you'll have.

For our first course, there were two dishes which were split between everyone. There was Barbabietola ($13), a salad of baby beet, sicilian pistachio, orange vinaigrette, and feta. I am not a fan of beets but the feta was creamy and tasty, and those who liked beets very much enjoyed this salad.

I enjoyed the Fritto ($11), a fried green tomato with fennel salad and buttermilk dressing. A pleasant start to the meal, with a fresh, juicy tomato and a light, crisp coating.

To accompany this course, we drank some 2012 Poderi Cellario Favorita. Made from the Favorita grape, a white grape grown primarily in the Piedmont, this wine was crisp and clean, with delicious pear and citrus flavors, as well as hints of floral and herbal elements. A delicious and more unique wine, it was food friendly too, and a welcome addition to their wine list.

Our second course was the Mozzarella ($14), Bufala mozzarella with prosciutto, yellow peaches, and a rosemary honey. Both the Bufala and honey are from Vermont, and they infused the honey in house with rosemary. A superb melange of flavors, this is an excellent summer dish with creamy cheese, juicy grilled peaches, salty ham and hints of sweetness from the honey. Give me some hot bread, this dish and a nice wine, and I would be very happy.

Our next course, again split among the diners, was a Pasta course. Pasta has always been a strong point at Posto and it remains so. The Gnocchi ($18) is made with braised lamb, pecorino toscano, white wine, and vidalia onion. The tender, pillowy gnocchi were accompanied by tasty, earthy flavors from the lamb. The white wine sauce was light and flavorful, accenting the gnocchi and lamb.

The Agnolotti, containing beef shin, were accompanied by thumbelina carrot and fried shallots. Again, the pasta was cooked perfectly, and the meaty filling added plenty of flavor to the dish. It was a lighter dish, perfect for summer, and the fried shallots were a nice addition.

The next wine of the evening was the easy drinking, 2009 Guido Porro "Vigna Santa Catarina" Barbera d'Alba. Light and fruity, with a touch of spice and earthiness, it is a fine food wine as well as something you could enjoy on its own. This wine is going to appeal to most wine lovers, seeking a simple wine to savor and enjoy.

Fish head time! The Trota ($22) is a piece of Rainbow Trout, sustainably farmed in Idaho, with kale, marcona almonds, onions and marrow. When you order the dish from the menu, you get the whole trout, so they added the fish heads to our dishes as a nod to that. The trout was tender and tasty, and the crunch of the salty almond enhanced the fish.

During our dinner, there was a discussion of Risotto, and I mentioned how it had always seemed rare on the Posto menu. The only Risotto they have right now is a Heirloom Tomato Risotto, which is part of the Swordfish dish. It is made with yellow tomatoes, using tomato water and not cream, as well as parmesan rind. An excellent Risotto, it was creamy with rice at just right texture, and the taste of tomato was prominent and fresh. I could have easily devoured a big bowl of this Risotto, and hope that Posto decides to add more Risotto to their menu.  

Our final savory course was a selection of four pizzas, including Caponata ($17), Marinara ($11), Mais ($17) and Salsiccia ($17). I tried 3 of the different pizzas, all but the Caponata, which is made with eggplant, goat cheese, tomato conserva, grapes, and pine nuts. This is Neapolitan pizza, with a soft, chewy crust, though people unfamiliar with this style may think the dough is undercooked, though it is not. I like this style of pizza, and the crust has always been one of my favorite parts of this type of pizza.

The Marinara, with sliced garlic, oregano, and parmesan, is a basic pizza, sure to appeal to the picky pizza lovers. The Mais comes with sweet corn, fontina, applewood bacon, grape tomato, and basil puree, offering a nice balance of sweet and salty flavors. The Salsiccia is made with fennel sausage, whipped ricotta, and a pistachio nut pesto. There was plenty of tender sausage, complemented by the creamy ricotta and nutty pesto. Pizza is always a fine option at Posto.

Dessert was up next. Though much of their dessert is made in house, they do purchase their Gelato from Christina's in Cambridge and their Cannoli from Modern Pastry. We had their Panna Cotta, a lemon basil flavor with strawberry and shortbread. Though Panna Cotta usually doesn't impress me much, this was different, the creaminess making for a more compelling dish.

My favorite dessert at Posto has long been their Tiramisu, which I think is one of the best in the area. Besides a wonderful blend of balanced flavors, it has a great texture, which doesn't fall apart or start oozing. In the past, I have taken it home and it still remains as a solid piece, rather than sliding into a gooey lump. If you have any room after dinner, you must order the Tiramisu.

With our dessert, we sipped some 2012 Vietti Cascinetta Moscato d'Asti, a crisp, lightly sweet, and fruity wine with a bit of frizzante. Nice flavors of peach and citrus, it is well balanced with a pleasant finish. This is not one of those overly sweet Moscatos that some people enjoy. This is a more serious wine, which should please many wine lovers.

As a final treat, we savored glasses of the Damilano Barolo Chinato, said to be similar to an offspring of Vermouth and Amaro. Posto has 4 Chinato on their wine list, and this is supposed to be the sweetest of the four. Chinato starts with a base of Barolo and then adds an herb infused alcohol, which contains quinine bark and some 21 other spices and herbs (such as rhubarb, gentian, orange peels, cloves, and cardamom seeds). As the quinine bark is known as "china" in Italian, that is the derivation of the name chinato. Legend states that Barolo Chinato was invented in the 1800s by a pharmacist seeking to create a medicinal potion. It is an interesting wine, with a savory blend of spices and some bitterness, though not to the level of a Fernet Branca. The sweetness, which is still relatively low, balances out the bitterness. There is plenty of complexity in the Chinato, and you get some of the usual Barolo flavors too.

Our main server for the evening was Jaime (pictured above), who was personable and attentive. She knew the food menu and wine list well and made sure we all had an enjoyable evening. Our main host, Alec Riveros, also did his best to ensure we had a fine evening. He was upfront in his answers to our questions, and also seemed interested in any suggestions we had to offer as well.

Posto remains as one of my favorite restaurants, and the changes have not diminished the quality in the least. The changes have largely been positive and I think the restaurant will continue to improve, rather than remain stagnant. My only concern is with the high markup on their wines, which is a problem with many restaurants, and far from unique to Posto. If you haven't been to Posto, or haven't been there in some time, then you should make the effort to dine there and experience some delicious Italian food, from small plates to pizza, from pasta to seafood.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) This August, Boston’s North End will celebrate the 103rd annual Fisherman’s Feast on Fleet Street, the oldest continuously running Italian festival. Prezza’s Executive Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is embracing the tradition, which dates back to 16th century Sicily, by offering curbside Italian “street food” in front of Prezza during the Feast.

From August 16-18, Prezza will serve up a quintet of traditional Italian fare specials, both day and night: Fried Arancini; Fried Whole Smelts; Porchetta Sliders; Tomato Braised Tripe Sandwich; and Zucchini Flowers.

Cost: “Street food” specials are offered at $12 each
Prezza’s regular menu will be available beginning at 5:30pm each night.

2) Forum Bar and Restaurant in Boston’s Back Bay is set to relaunch on August 15 with a new look, new feel, new chef and new menu. The restaurant will reopen its doors exactly four months after the April 15 Boston Marathon attack with a grand opening event to commemorate the occasion. The restaurant will open to the public for dinner service on Friday, August 16, with lunch and brunch in the following weeks.

 “Our restaurant has been- and will continue to be- a special destination in Boston. We are so proud of our staff and the team who has all combined efforts to help rebuild Forum into a new and exciting place for our guests to enjoy,” said General Manager Chris Loper. “We look forward to inviting our loyal guests, fellow Bostonians, and guests from around the world back to our wonderful new restaurant.”

Guests will notice a brand new bar at the front of the restaurant and a colorful rich décor on the first floor with numerous seating options from booths to a communal table and hi-top tables. The exterior façade has been completely redesigned with the new Forum Bar and Restaurant logo and new outdoor awnings. Guests will enjoy the welcoming seasonal patio and al fresco lounge area, as well as the fresh look of the interior, which combines a comfortable, yet upscale feel that compliments the creative new menus featuring inspired dishes focusing on local, seasonal ingredients. There will also be a strong focus on gluten-free menu options. Brunch will be served on Sundays and the bar and lounge will continue to be a popular after-work meeting place. Brunch will be served on Saturdays and Sundays.

The culinary program at the new Forum Bar and Restaurant will be overseen by up and coming Executive Chef Dan Schroeder, who has spent several years working at prestigious country clubs across New England. Prior to that, Schroeder spent time in kitchens on the West Coast- including resorts in Oregon and Hawaii. Schroeder is a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute. The beverage program at Forum Bar and Restaurant was a collaboration between Forum Bar Manager Pete Polselli and mixology and spirits educator, Troy Clarke. Together, they have created a thoughtful mix of seasonal and classic cocktail list that will rotate several times a year. Fresh fruits and infusions are created in-house to give guests cocktails that are flavorful, pure and clean.

Forum is open Monday through Saturday from 11am-1am and on Sundays from 10am-1am. Forum serves lunch, dinner and brunch Saturdays and Sundays. For more information, call (857) 991-1831.

3) Haru’s “Happy Hour” has expanded, offering more special deals. Available daily from 3pm-7pm and 10pm-close in the bar area, Haru’s revamped Happy Haru menu offers the following new additions: String Bean Tempura (curried salt - $4); Flash-Fried Shishito Peppers (sea salt - $5); Lobster Gyoza ($8); Short Rib Buns ($8); Chicken Wings (spicy garlic or teriyaki sauce - $8); Fish Tacos ($7); Chicken Yakitori ($5); Filet Mignon Yakitori ($6); and the Haru Wasabi Roll ($8). Haru still is offering the regular specials, as well: Edamame ($4); California Roll ($4); Spicy Tuna Roll ($5); Crunchy Spicy Salmon Roll ($5); and, Spring Rolls ($5).

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Donato Frattaroli, owner of Lucia Ristorante in Winchester, and Executive Chef Pino Maffeo continue their cooking class series by offering guests an opportunity to learn how to create five different fresh, summer-inspired salad favorites.

On Wednesday, July 10, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Lucia Ristorante will hold the next in its series of cooking classes, where guests will have a hands-on lesson on how to make the freshest Italian- style summer salads, along delicious vinaigrettes to pair together. Just in time for the heat of the summer, these not-so-typical cool salads are the perfect dish for any summer barbeque or dinner. Following the class, guests will be invited for a family- style meal of class-prepared dishes with both chefs. Notebook, recipes, and aprons will be provided.

This class will include hands-on demonstrations on how to make:

L’Insalata di Patata Italiana (Italian Potato Salad)
Caprese Salad With Balsamic Vinegrette
Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinegrette and Bresaola
L’Insalata di Pomodoro Italiana (Italian Tomato Salad)
Sicilian Orange Salad with Blood orange, Fennel, EVOO

The Summer-Salad class costs $60 per person For more information about this event, or to make a reservation for the class, please call (781) 729-0515.

2) Ducali Pizzeria and Bar is upgrading its brunch for the summer. Starting this Sunday, in addition to the regular brunch menu Ducali will be offering a summer “Kegs and Eggs” special: a beer flight + a breakfast pizza for $12.

Start with the choice of a beer flight, Beantown (Massachusetts brews only) or Around the World (multi-regional brews), which offer guests a selection of five, 4-ounce pours. Pair it with the choice of a Breakfast Pizza including: Pizza Ducale with potato, pancetta, mozzarella & egg; Pizza Verde with spinach, cherry tomatoes, mushroom, mozzarella & egg; Pizza Abbruzzese with sausage, onion, mozzarella & egg, and it may just be the classiest form of kegs and eggs around.

Other brunch menu entrees range from $7 to $12 and include:
Frittata Occidentale (Mushroom, onion, red pepper & pancetta frittata served with country toast & Italian style potatoes)
Frittata Tricolore Cheese (basil & tomato frittata served with country toast & Italian style potatoes)
Granola (Mascarpone & fresh berries with homemade granola)
Americano (Two fried eggs, Italian sausage, country toast and Italian style potatoes)
Pane Dolce (Baked French toast topped with Nutella, served with fresh fruit)
Frutta Fresca (Seasonal fruit bowl)

Brunch is held every Sunday 11am-3pm

3) Chef & Owner Jeff Fournier, of 51 Lincoln in Newton, is revitalizing the restaurant by adding new talent to the kitchen, rebuilding the menu, and creating a new interior look and feel. I am a fan of 51 Lincoln and am intrigued by the new changes.

The new culinary team includes: Nate Gibson as the new Chef de Cuisine, a promotion from his former role of Sous Chef at sister restaurant Waban Kitchen; Nicholas Mace as the new Sous Chef, a promotion from his former role of first line cook; and former BU culinary student, Fernanda Tapia, has taken on a more independent role by creating The Cooking School at 51 Lincoln, a weekly hands-on cooking series which teaches a small group the ins and outs of everything from knife skills to how to butcher a while pig.

Fournier and Chef de Cuisine Gibson have rebuilt the menu from the ground up, going back to basics and focusing on fresh, local ingredients and creativity. Fournier sees everything besides the protein as the vehicles for that dish, thus focusing on sustainability all the way through the fruits, vegetables, seeds and nuts. The kitchen is experimenting with innovative techniques daily (pickled beet relish, apricot clafoutis in mason jars, an Asian Surf & Turf made with seared skirt steak, salt & pepper oyster, warm egg yolk, scallions, Fresno peppers), and the menu changes true to season.

The new menu for summer is composed of:
--Cheese & Charcuterie, such as Pickled Smoked Pork and Valdeon, a Spanish cheese.
--Appetizers, such as Watermelon “Steak” Salad with golden beets, French feta, red beet vinaigrette, and fresh herbs and New England Style Shrimp Chowder
--Entrees, such as Herb-Roasted Fried Chicken with made-to-order buttermilk mashed potatoes, field greens, and plum jam and Pan Rendered Long Island Duck Breast with chilled buckwheat soba noodles and garlic sautéed gai lan.
--Vegetables, such as Ginger & Fennel Dusted French Fries served with chipotle & lime aioli and Polenta Fries with truffled parmesan dip.

Chef Fournier, Gibson, Mace, and Tapia are all hands-on with the creation and fruition of the 3,000 square foot 51 Lincoln Rooftop Garden. The garden grows a majority of produce used at the restaurant, and serves as inspiration for his house made and aged sausages and many whim dishes, producing: tomato plants, many types of herbs, cucumbers, potatoes, and many varieties of peppers. This August, Fournier and Gibson will be using this rooftop produce as a major component during Raw August, a month-long celebration of internationally influenced raw cuisine featuring dishes such as: Fresh Hamachi & Heirloom Melon Sashimi, Rosewater Ponzu, Toasted Sesame Seeds, Bulls Blood and Colorado Lamb Kibbe, White Onion, Parsley, Kalamata Olive Vinaigrette, Naan Bread.

For the summer season, the craft cocktail program concocted cherry and lavender infused vodka, coconut infused tequila, strawberry & lemongrass infused gin, and brown sugar & BBQ-spiced bourbon, to create the offerings: El Cocodrilo - Loco Fresno Chili & Coconut Tequila, Homemade Sour Mix, Fresh Muddled Avocado and a squeeze of fresh lime; Cherry, Darling! - Cherry and lavender infused vodka, Contratto Vermouth Bianco, Campari, dash of simple syrup, and garnished with an orange twist; Bubble Moon - Strawberry & Lemongrass Gin, Creme de Violet, Fresh Lemon, Je T'aime; My Carolina Crush - Brown Sugar & BBQ-Spiced Bourbon, Pineapple, Pomegranate-Soaked Cherries, Lyle's Golden Syrup.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Boston Chops, the new steakhouse in the South End, is debuting a new Brunch menu, held every  Saturday and Sunday, from 10am-3pm, including some elements of their Rarely Celebrated beef cuts. Their food menu is divided into the following sections: Raw, their full raw menu is available for brunch; Tossed, with three salads not available on the dinner menu, including Lobster Cobb Salad (grilled avocado along with the lettuces, ½ a lobster, sharp cheddar, egg and grilled bacon, $24). The Unnamed section of the menu features items such as Huevos Rancheros, with machaca beef cheeks, black beans, grilled avocado, and a tortilla ($14); Brisket Shank & Grilled Tongue "Hash" with a 2hr egg, frites, cheese curds and gravy ($14); Giannone Fried Chicken with biscuits, sawmill gravy, sausage, and pepper jelly ($19), Brunch Frites, bottomless frites with a selection of either grilled steaks (a choice of three 8oz cuts) or sandwiches (corned brisket & tongue reuben $14, burger with house bacon, BC sauce & cheddar, $15, croque monsieur $15) served with the choice of select sauces from the dinner menu. For Sides, try the House Made Pecan Sticky Buns ($7) or House Made Donuts with Chocolate Sauce ($7).

On the beverage menu, you will find Prime Bloodies, culinary infused Bloody Marys, a collaboration between the kitchen and the bar. All bloodies can be “cooked” to order: Rare – bold house made Bloody Mary mix, Medium– add spice to your life, Well Done– when you want to play with fire. Selections include: Pickled Mary with asparagus, green beans, frog balls, and cornichons – all pickled in house ($10); Smoked Kebab with speared bell peppers, pearl onions, and smoked beef tongue ($10); Charred Shishito with pepper jack cheese, grilled shishito pepper, and lemon ($10); Steak & Cheese with veal stock and blue cheese stuffed olives ($10).

2) The Beehive Restaurant's latest celebration will be “La Fête nationale du Québec” or “Quebec National Day” featuring an evening of food and live performance from award-winning singer-songwriters Isabelle Cyr and Yves Marchand on Monday, June 24, from 5pm-1am. In partnership with the Quebec Delegation of Boston and Svedka Vodka, The Beehive will be decked out representing our friends to the north in proper fashion as Cyr and Marchand perform original, well-known and traditional pieces from their Quebec and Acadian repertoire from 8pm-12am.

Highlighting the true friendliness of Quebec and its people, dinner will kick off at 5pm with a La Fête nationale du Québec specials menu in addition to The Beehive’s regular fare. The evening’s food will feature traditional Quebec fare such as: Smoked Trout Cakes with Horseradish & Cucumber Salad ($12), Foie Gras & Maple Crème Brulée ($14), Brome Lake Duck Breast Au Poivre with Sweet Potato Fries ($27), Québec style Lobster Spaghetti ($32), and Bleu berries pie with Maple syrup ice cream ($8).

In the mood for some Quebec cocktails why not try some of The Beehive’s fun featured cocktails for the evening such as the "Caribou de Ville” ($11.50) blending together red wine, American Honey Wild Turkey splashes of maple syrup, served on the rocks with a cinnamon stick, or the "Quebec Urbain" ($11.50) made with Svedka Clementie, blood orange juice and muddled fresh mint served on the rocks.

There is no cover charge for this event, but dinner reservations are highly recommended, so please call 617-423-0069.

3) The Grafton Inn introduces the first annual Grafton Food Festival, a celebration of local food and farms in Vermont, to be held June 22 and 23, from 10am-4pm, in Grafton Village. The event is presented by Northeast Flavor, a food and wine magazine focused on New England culinary pursuits. Celebrate Vermont’s “taste of place” and sample local food from more than 20 local food providers including Grafton Village Cheese, Side Hill Farm, Vermont Creamery, Blake Hill Preserves, Wright Orchard Sugarworks, Vermont Smoke and Cure and more. Additional food vendors, a bar and local farms will be set-up for purchased items, as well.

Guests will have the chance to enjoy cooking demonstrations each day featuring nationally recognized chefs including Susan Tuveson and Jean Kerr of Northeast Flavor, Jason Tostrup of the Inn at Weathersfield, Martin Schuelke of the Grafton Inn and more. One lucky attendee at each of the five cooking demonstrations will win the prepared food and sit at a special Chef’s Table at the event to enjoy it.

Cost is $10 per person; children under 12 are free. The Grafton Inn will offer specially priced farm-to-table dinner menus at the Old Tavern Restaurant on Friday and Saturday evening. Friday night is a Vegetarian themed tasting dinner (with a meat option) and Saturday night is a local Pasture to Plate tasting dinner. Reservations are necessary for each dinner. Additional activities in Grafton this weekend include guided wine and cheese hikes at Grafton Ponds Outdoor Center on Saturday and Sunday at 1:30 p.m. ($25 per person) and live music at Phelps Barn Pub on Friday and Saturday night at 8 pm (no cover). The Grafton Inn is offering a special Grafton Food Festival lodging package that includes two night’s lodging at the historic inn, breakfast each morning, entry to the Food Festival and a special Food Festival welcome bag for just $375.

For the complete event agenda and to book lodging or dinner reservations, visit GraftonFoodFestival.com or call 800-843-1801.

4) Beginning Sunday, June 9, TICO hosts a monthly Summer Patio Party with food, drinks, music, games, giveaways and fun. On Sunday, July 14, from 2pm-8pm, there will be an All-American BBQ. Technically it’s Bastille Day, but don’t tell that to TICO – they’re still celebrating the Fourth well into July with classic BBQ fare like burgers, dogs, ribs, cornbread; beer samples, giveaways from Patron Tequila, and music from DJ Jaz. On Sunday, August 11, from 2pm-8pm, there will be a Patio Pig Roast. Closing out the summer with another of TICO’s winning pig roasts, the patio will be rocking once more with all-you-can-eat porchetta from the rig roast, sides, beer samples, giveaways from Patron Tequila, and music from DJ Jaz.

COST: $20/person at the door includes all-you-can-eat food, beer & spirit tastings, giveaways and live music from DJ Jaz of the Boston Celtics

5) Bistro 5, a phenomenal Italian restaurant in Medford, is celebrating strawberries and local agriculture from June 13-June 29, with a special 5 Course Tasting Menu with Wine Pairings. 50% of their dessert sales will benefit the Federation of Massachusetts Farmers Market.

The Menu is:
Strawberry Thyme Chilled Soup (Port Wine Syrup, Mascarpone and Prosciutto)
2011 Aragosta, Vermentino, Sardegna
Scungilli (Thinly Sliced Conch, Green Strawberries and Spring Onion Vinaigrette)
2011 Loosen Bros "Dr .L" Riesling, Germany
Goat Cheese Ravioli (Strawberry Confetti and Shishito Peppers)
2009 Montaribaldi, Dolcetto d'Alba
Duck Milanese (Strawberry and Window Box Shiso, Rhubarb and Cherry Compote)
2009 Zenato, Valpolicella, Ripasso
Strawberry Shortcake (White Chocolate Mousse and Lemon Cloud)
2011 Elio Perrone 'Bigarò', Brachetto d'Aqui

Cost: Tasting Menu--Five Course: $68 per person or Three Course: $49 per person
Wine Pairing--Five Course: $25 per person or Three Course: $20 per person

For reservations, please call (781) 395-7464

6) Chef-owner Chris Douglass of Ashmont Grill is hosting four special dining events this summer. Prices and menus vary.

Monday, June 24 @ 6 PM 
Joel Gott Wine Dinner: Cost $65 inclusive for 5 courses of seasonal cuisine, served communally on the patio and paired with 5 wines from this white-hot winery. Gott’'s local representative will speak. Seating for this event limited to the first 25 people who call to reserve a space.
Sunday, July 14 @ 6 PM 
Pig Roast: This exciting outdoor pork-a-thon features a traditional pig roast with all the fixin’s plus selected beers and wines. Cost is $60 inclusive.
Sunday, August 11 @ 6 PM 
Lobstah Bake: New Englanders know that this feast always includes our favorite crustacean, plus local corn, potatoes, clams, hot dogs, watermelon and more. Act fast as seating is limited @ $60 inclusive.
Sunday, September 8 @ 6 PM 
Dueling Chefs of Dorchester: This exciting competition pits the kitchen teams of Ashmont Grill and Tavolo (our sister restaurant) against each other in an end-of-the-season patio party chock full of local farm fare, meats, fish, psta, homey desserts, wine and beer. $75 inclusive.

Rain dates for all four events will be posted online.

7) Joseph Cassinelli, Chef & Owner of the Alpine Restaurant Group, announced three new hires to his restaurant team. The Alpine Restaurant Group currently owns and operates Posto, Posto Mobile and The Painted Burro in Davis Square. These are some of my favorite restaurants. Alpine Restaurant Group has named two inaugural positions including: Alec Riveros as Director of Operations and Chef Robert Jean as the Culinary Director of the group. Additionally, Chef Wyatt Maguire joins as Executive Chef of Posto.

“In 2010, Posto was one of the first restaurants to debut in the resurgence of the Davis Square restaurant scene,” says Joseph Cassinelli. “It is New England’s first Verace Pizza Napoletana certified pizzeria, but over time it has evolved to be much more. Under the direction of our new team, guests can now enjoy a dining experience that highlights the simplicity of Italian cuisine augmented with the New England bounty. An extensive antipasti program of small plates, handmade pasta dishes, and local grilled meats and fish are labors of love that we are all excited to share.”

The new menu at Posto showcases the simplicity of Italian cooking with a focus on artisan ingredients. The menu includes a new section of Stouzi (white bean puree with cauliflower giardinerre), Ensalate (string bean salad with fava, pea, sunchoke, Gaeta olive and pistachio pesto) and Primi (ciabatta with rosemary roasted peach, foie gras & lavender sea salt). The Pasta section features an expanded selection of hand made dishes such as a rabbit tagliatelle with peas, carrots, toasted garlic, farm egg & tarragon. The Pizza selections offer both rosso and bianco selections and continue to be made in the true Neapolitan spirit with “00” flour, San Marzano tomatoes, and house made fior di latte mozzarella. A new section of Carne e Pesce showcases wood roasted meat as well as an extended selection of seafood dishes such as whole roasted sea bass “cartocchio” with spicy pomodoro, fennel & saffron sea salt and brook trout with kale, chiogga beet, sweet onion & bone marrow “almondine.”

The beverage program at Posto has also been revamped. The cocktail list now includes a selection of Aperitivo such as Aperol Spritz which is available by the pitcher, Cocktails made with house infused spirits, house made limoncello and simple syrups, in addition to selections of local and international draft and bottled beer. The wine list features sparkling, rose, white and red wine selections available both by the bottle and by the glass. Posto’s beverage program also features an imported Italian wine preservation system called Enzo. Enzo’s extensive wine by the glass program allows guests to enjoy rare selections of reserve wines by the glass. I look forward to checking out all the changes.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The Barcelona Wine Bar, a new Spanish tapas restaurant in Brookline, has a number of upcoming cooking classes which you might find of interest.

April 29, 7pm: Tapas Party in an Hour 
It's possible to plan and prep for a tapas party in an hour! We have quick, easy, dynamic, inspired tapas that can be easily prepared for a group in about an hour. Executive Chef Steven Brand will show you how to make Chorizo and Figs, Boquerones, Mushrooms a la plancha, stuffed olives, dates with almonds wrapped in Serrano ham, and more.
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

May 27, 7pm: Spring Vegetable Classroom
Ramps, Morels, Favas, Peas, Asparagus. What's the home cook to do with the abundance of spring vegetables? How do we break through the doldrums of winter and come out inspired on the other side? Chef Steven has the answers.
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

June 24, 7pm: Pig Roast 101 
Are pig roasts a daunting project for the home cook? We think not! See how fun and easy this process can be for the next time you have a dinner party for 12 people. Once the pig is roasting, Chef Steve will show you some ideas for side dishes that will accompany the roast, even dessert!
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

To make reservations for any of these classes, please call the restaurant at 617-264-8900.

2) On Sunday, May 5, from 5:30pm-1am, The Beehive is going south of the border in celebration of Cinco de Mayo with its annual event featuring live music and food & cocktail specials. Guests will be able to indulge in Mexican-inspired food specials from Chef Rebecca Newell while getting in the spirit with tequila cocktails made from Leyenda del Milagro Tequila, the finest small batch, artisanal mescal. A special performance by nine piece Mariachi band, Mariachi International, will keep the night going as they take over The Beehive’s stage from 6:30pm-12am. Mexican appetizers, entrées, desserts and tequila specials will be served all night long. In classic Beehive spirit there will be plenty of surprises and there is never a cover charge.

Reservations are highly recommended by calling 617-423-0069. Sombreros welcome!

3) On May 15, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Bethel Heights Winery. Known best for their Pinot Noir blends, Bethel Heights has been a family business since 1977 with its winery located in Oregon. Legal Sea Foods will team up with Bethel Heights’ winemaker, Ben Casteel, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with Casteel’s choices from their vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Curried Scallops, Brioche Toast Points, Cilantro Crème Fraîche
Oysters on the Half Shell, Chimichurri Vinaigrette
Shrimp Gazpacho Shooters, Micro Cilantro
Bethel Heights Pinot Gris, Oregon, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Seafood Trio Soup (Clams, Mussels, Shrimp, Coconut Lemongrass Broth, Curried Crostini)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Pinot Blanc, Eola-Amity Hills, 2011
SECOND COURSE
Pan Seared Halibut Fillet (Ratatouille Niçoise, Provencal Butter Sauce)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, 2011
THIRD COURSE
Wood Grilled Faroe Salmon (Wild Mushroom Croquette, Shallot Butter Sauce)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2010
Bethel Heights “Flat Block” Estate Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2009
CHEESE COURSE
Morbier, Bijou, Camembert (Berry Compote, Buttery Toast Points)
Bethel Heights “Casteel Reserve” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2010

Cost: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

4) On April 29, at 6pm, Lucia Ristorante is presenting a four course wine dinner with a menu designed and executed by Chef Pino Maffeo. The wine is sponsored by United Liquors, a Massachusetts-based distributor focusing on wine and spirits, with guest speakers Claudio Farina of Remo Farina Winery, Don Allen of Banville and Jones Wine Co., and representatives from Pala Wines.

Chef Pino has handcrafted a menu of dishes to complement the authentic flavors of these wines. Chef will guide guests through the menu, which includes:

FIRST COURSE
Roasted Beets with a red wine vinaigrette and shaved Ricotta Salata
Pala I Fiore Vermentino
SECOND COURSE
Veal and ricotta cannelloni with wild mushrooms
Pala I Fiore cannonau
THIRD COURSE
Duck with roasted hazelnuts, brown butter
Remo Farina Valpolacella Riparsso
Remo Farina Amarone dell Valpolacella
FOURTH COURSE
Fresh berries with zambaglione

Cost: Tickets are $50 per person.
For reservations, please call 617-367-2353.

5) The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, will be sampling and celebrating the arrival of Rosé on Saturday, May 18, from 1pm-5pm, during the complimentary Rosés Are Here tasting. Guests can gain a new appreciation and explore this light and refreshing wine. Rosés that have finished last in the past when the wine market was flooded with White Zinfandel look-a-likes but, are quickly making a comeback. As the summer weather rapidly approaches, wineries are releasing their best rosés to the market for optimum enjoyment. Guests will not want to miss this chance to drink this chilled wine and discover the full spectrum of flavors that Rosés have to offer.

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