Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On September 16, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a wine dinner with Italian winery, Altesino. Nestled away in the heart of Tuscany, Altesino’s production averages 220,000 bottles per year, and is recognized as one of the area’s most distinguished producers. Legal Harborside will team up with Altesino’s Commercial Director and Assistant Wine Maker, Guido Orzalesi, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring cuisine paired with Orzalesi’s choices from the Altesino vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Duck “Rognuggets” with Orange Blossom Honey Dipping Sauce
Mushroom Bruschetta, Guanciale, Quail Egg
Polenta, Braised Snails and Shallots, Balsamic Vinegar
Rosemary Skewered Beef Heart, Agrodolce
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2010
FIRST COURSE
Rainbow Chard and Robiola Agnolotti
Braised Veal Shoulder, Smoked Pine Nuts, Ricotta and Marjoram
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Caramelized Lamb Belly (Oxtail Ragù, Lentils, Fermented Garlic and Roasted Squash) Altesino Brunello di Montalcino, 2007
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino, 2008
MAIN COURSE
Roasted 42 Day Ged Prime Rib of Beef (Rosemary-Horseradish Popovers, Puréed Potatoes, Grilled Escarole and Jus)
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino “Montosoli,” 2006
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino “Montosoli,” 2007
DESSERT COURSE
Dark Chocolate Panna Cotta with Cherry Almond Biscotti
Altesino Vin Santo “Val d’Arbia,” 2004

Cost: $125 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9470

2) Mâitre d' hotel and Fromager Louis Risoli and Wine Director & Sommelier Lauren Collins present Salon Sessions, held at L’Espalier each month. Louis Risoli's passion for cheese is unparalleled and is the driving force behind the Grand Fromage at L’Espalier since 1988. Lauren Collins, Wine Director & Sommelier at L'Espalier, joined the team in 2012 and is a certified Advanced Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers. Lauren is one of five people in Boston to obtain this esteemed certification.

L’Espalier presents Classic Combinations at Salon Sessions—an intimate yet educational wine and cheese pairing. Join experts Louis Risoli and Lauren Collins, as they share their knowledge on textbook examples of great pairings, such as Triple Crème with Champagne, Stilton and Port, Chevre and Sancerre as well as Clothbound Cheddar with Bordeaux.

When: Thursday, September 12, at 6pm
Cost: $55 per person
Reservations are required. Please call L’Espalier at 617-262-3023

3) Legal Sea Foods is holding their fifth annual Oyster Festival this fall, from September 18 through October 15, Legal Sea Foods will celebrate everything oysters via menu features and a quartet of special events. All Massachusetts Legal Sea Foods locations will feature a series of rotating in-restaurant specials including Fried Oysters ($10.95), Oyster Stew ($10.95), Oyster Legal ($14.95), Oyster Po-Boy ($11.95) and Oyster & Andouille Sausage Jambalaya ($15.95).

“Our oyster bars are a hallmark of our restaurants,” observed Roger Berkowitz, President and CEO of Legal Sea Foods. “And no longer should oysters be just the favorites of gastronomes. We want to educate all our guests and encourage experimentation. We’d like everyone to share the belief of the idiomatic saying, ‘the world is your oyster.’”

Special events will be held at various Legal Sea Foods locations and will include:

--Shellfish Shindig, a ‘shuckout’ of $1 oysters at Charles Square’s outdoor Terrace Bar (September 22 from 2-4pm; a la carte pricing)
--Sip, Slurp and Sup, a trio of small plates paired with oyster-friendly wines hosted in the Park Square location (October 1 at 6:30pm; $40 per person)
--Mollusk Mania, an “everything oysters” party featuring a raw bar of eight varieties and four passed appetizers on the all-weather rooftop at Legal Harborside (October 6 from 2-4pm; $45 per person)
--Oyster Brewhaha, a four-course oyster and craft beer dinner at the Kendall Square location (October 8 at 6:30pm; $55 per person).

The health benefits of oysters come by the bushel. The bivalves are rich in protein, low in fat and calories, low in cholesterol, chockfull of vitamins and are nature’s best source of zinc. All shellfish are separated into batches according to vendor and certified bed area and subsequently tested for purity within 24 hours of receipt at its Quality Control Center, a state-of-the-art fish processing center complete with in-house laboratory. Product remains quarantined until test results confirm negative for toxins. Legal Sea Foods thus ensures that its oysters are, indeed, the best tasting and safest in the industry.

4) On Tuesday, September 24, Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro (BHHB) and the New England Aquarium will co-host a “Celebrate Seafood Dinner” to raise awareness of the challenges facing the oceans and the benefits of sustainable seafood. For just $65 per person, $55 for New England Aquarium members, guests will be treated to a one-of-a-kind, multi-course dinner with communal seating that will satiate the palate while satisfying the soul. For an additional $30, guests can enjoy an optional wine pairing with each course.

Executive Chef Josh Lewin is committed to incorporating local products and sustainable practices into Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro’s cuisine in unique and innovative ways. To bring this delicious and educational feast to diners, Lewin worked alongside the Aquarium’s Sustainable Seafood Program to bring only the freshest, most sustainable ingredients to the table. Joining the Bistro and Aquarium will be special guests, Pat and Barbara Woodbury of Woodbury Shellfish in Wellfleet, as well as Adam Fuller and Larry Trowbridge from Snappy Lobster Company in Scituate, to speak about their companies and the changing landscape that is affecting local resources. As they speak, guests will be able to taste their product firsthand by indulging into Chef Lewin’s creative take on Woodbury’s farmed shellfish and Snappy’s dayboat seafood.

For reservations please call: 617-723-7575. Seats are limited.

MENU:
Swordfish Conserva, Mouse Melon, Tomato Vinaigrette
Wellfleet Oyster, gelled in its liquor. Horseradish and Whey Granita
"Rachel Rose" Scallop Mousse. Cherry Cilantro Jam, Mangalitsa Lardo, Sabzi
Harpooned Swordfish and Lobster, Heirloom Tomato, Tomato Consomme, New Potato
Olive Oil Cake, Mexican Chocolate, Beets

For reservations please call: 617-723-7575. Seats are limited.

5) The region’s seafood industry will be the focus of the second annual Boston Seafood Festival. Hosted by the Fisheries Foundation (BFF) on Saturday, September 28 in the Seaport District at the Bank of America Pavilion, the event will be a day of celebration and festivities.

The Boston Seafood Festival will offer a full day of events focused on educating the public about the local and global elements at play in New England’s dynamic fishing industry. The event will take place from 11am-10pm and will include more than 20 vendors serving up fresh-from-the-water fare, an all-day lobster bake, celebrity chef demonstrations on how to cook seafood, an oyster shucking contest, the New England Aquarium Touch Tank and other hands-on activities for children, as well as educational panels presented by scientists, fishermen and nutritionists focusing on seafood and sustainability. Tickets are $10 and can be purchased in advance at www.bostonseafoodfestival.org.

Established by the BFF to raise awareness of New England’s fisheries, the festival highlights America’s original seafood hub, a centuries-old industry facing many modern-day issues. The Boston Seafood Festival hopes to set the tone this year for an even larger celebration next year, which will be held conjunction with the 100th birthday of Boston Fish Pier, an enduring symbol of the New England fishing industry. “We have to work together to sustain and support our fish and fishing families or iconic fishing centers like the Boston Fish Pier may disappear,” says Robert Nagle, co-founder of the Boston Fisheries Foundation and Vice President of Operations at John Nagle Co. The BFF will celebrate New England’s passion for fishing and delicious seafood bounty with locals and visitors at this all-day event. BFF President and Co-Founder Chris Basile, owner of Quarterdeck Seafood Market, says, “Whether you enjoy the most traditional or the most adventurous seafood, you will find it at the festival. We are really excited to share our love of seafood with the public.”

Fishing-related organizations such as Ocean Trust, Saving Seafood and Gloucester Fishermen’s Wives Association, along with scientists and nutritionists, will be on-hand to share information. There will be local culinary talent presenting stage demos throughout the day; some of the notable chefs who will demonstrate perfect fish preparation include Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta, Chef Rich Garcia of the former 606 Congress, and Chef Bill Bradley of the New England Aquarium. Last year, thousands of guests came to the event to enjoy the seminars, demos, music, and competitions. This year, the organizers anticipate more than 5,000 attendees over the course of the festival.

On Friday, September 27th, the BFF and Boston Seafood Festival organizers will kick off the weekend’s events with the second annual Boston Seafood Gala. This event will include culinary offerings from many of New England’s most prestigious chefs. Tickets to the gala are $125 per person and can be purchased by visiting www.bostonseafoodfestival.org. The gala will take place at the Exchange Conference Center on the Boston Fish Pier in the Seaport District. Proceeds from this celebratory gala event will benefit the Boston Fisheries Foundation.

6) Joslin Diabetes Center, the world's largest diabetes research and clinical care organization, will celebrate with “ritmos de salud” at the Artists for Humanity EpiCenter on September 26th, to benefit its Latino Diabetes Initiative.

Guests will enjoy an evening filled with upbeat Latin rhythms from Grammy nominated Gonalzo Grau as well as a performance by Salsa Matei Dance Company; guests will be encouraged to join in on the dance floor. A fabulous array of food will be provided by 10 of Boston’s most renowned Chefs, led by our culinary chair – Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta.

Diabetes is a disease of epidemic proportions across all populations, affecting certain racial/ethnic groups in even greater numbers. National data demonstrates that Latinos have a two-fold increase in the risk of developing type 2 diabetes compared to the Caucasian population. Joslin Diabetes Center’s Latino Diabetes Initiative (LDI) strives to improve the lives of Latinos affected by diabetes, or at risk for the disease, through culturally oriented patient care, education, outreach and research, as well as working to find a cure.

When: Thursday, September 26, 6pm-11pm
Cost: Tickets are $65 can be purchased by calling 617. 309.2512 or e-mail Kevin.Hudson@joslin.harvard.edu

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Verlasso Salmon: A Seafood Watch "Good Alternative"

Do you avoid farmed salmon? Do you believe that farmed salmon is not sustainable? Maybe you need to reassess the situation.

Wild or farmed salmon? That is often the dilemma. There have been numerous real problems with farmed salmon, so organizations like the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch have generally labeled all farmed salmon as Avoid. However, I have previously criticized such watchdog organizations for making too broad an assessment which can ignore the good work of specific producers. Not all farmed salmon is the same, and the Seafood Watch is finally paying attention and making positive changes to their assessments to account for such exemplar producers.

For the last two years at the International Boston Seafood Show, I have reported about Verlasso Salmon, a farmed salmon operation which seemed to be avoiding the problems of other salmon farms. In 2012, I stated: "Verlasso seems to be headed in an excellent direction, working hard to be sustainable, and I applaud their efforts." This year, I repeated my sentiments: "Verlasso continues to move in the right direction and it is worthy of your support." You can read my previous posts for some of the specifics that make Verlasso salmon more sustainable, and you will be able to see that they also continue to improve their practices. Plus, and importantly, their salmon is tasty.

In 2012, the Seafood Watch instituted a pilot program for an External Assessment Model, which would "...allow third parties to utilize the Seafood Watch criteria and methodology to assess fisheries and aquaculture operations that would not otherwise be assessed by the Seafood Watch program." The Seafood Watch understands that they have a limited ability to assess all of the aquaculture and wild seafood operations around the world, and this pilot program would allow them to expand their assessments, without decreasing the quality of their program. Since 2012, the Seafood Watch has been testing out this new program on a limited basis and the results are starting to come in.

Verlasso Salmon became part of the Seafood Watch's new pilot program, the External Assessment Model, and its aquaculture practices were reviewed and assessed over a sixteen month period. And the result was a striking success for Verlasso. Verlasso is now the first and only ocean-raised farmed Atlantic salmon to receive a “Good Alternative” rating from the Seafood Watch program. All other Atlantic Farmed Salmon still has an "Avoid" rating, making Verlasso Salmon unique, indicative of their strong efforts to produce sustainable seafood.

“The Seafood Watch assessment of Verlasso’s hatcheries, farms, processing plants and management took 16 months,” said Jennifer Dianto Kemmerly, director of Seafood Watch. “Based on the extensive data we collected, which was vetted internally and by external peer reviewers, we’re confident that Verlasso is raising Atlantic salmon with environmentally responsible practices.” This announcement is a positive sign for other individual seafood operations who are committed to sustainability, but who might have fallen under a general Avoid rating in the past. I am impressed that the Seafood Watch has instituted the External Assessment Model and hope it continues to reward worthy fisheries.

Scott Nichols, the Verlasso director, stated. “Verlasso is devoted to finding comprehensive solutions for salmon aquaculture’s historic challenges. We are deeply gratified by Seafood Watch’s recognition of our efforts. We have collaborated with conservation leaders to help us on our journey to raise the best salmon with sustainable practices. The Good Alternative ranking is an exciting validation of our achievement.”

Congratulations to Verlasso Salmon for their achievement, and congratulations to the Seafood Watch for making the effort to improve their ratings and address the issue of worthy, individual operations which were previously marginalized under their overly broad assessments.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On August 4th, Boston’s restaurateur, Nick Varano, the CEO and owner of The Varano Group, will open the doors to his newest dining establishment, Strega Prime. Located in the former Beacon Grille space at Tradecenter 128 in Woburn, this will be an upscale Italian Steakhouse, a new concept for Varano. Strega Prime’s new Executive Chef Farouk Bazoune, the former Executive Sous Chef at Mooo in Boston, worked hand-in-hand with Corporate Chef, Salvatore Firicano and Varano to develop the upscale steakhouse menu to incorporate touches of Varano’s famous modern Italian cuisine.

For salads and appetizers, highlights include: Hand Chopped Steak Tartar (prime beef, soy glaze, pickled red onion and marrow toast - $16); Fried Parmesan and Truffle Calamari (gremolota, sishitto peppers, fennel, spicy Arrabbiata sauce - $13); Braised Kurabuta Pork Belly (parsnip puree, exotic mushrooms, Madeira sauce -$14); and Roasted Beet Salad (beet puree, honey-whipped ricotta, Mache, pistachio dust - $11). For a la carte options, notable mentions include: Petite Filet (8 oz -$37) and the Porterhouse Steak for Two (42 oz - $88). There are a number of sharable sides like the Four Cheese Macaroni ($10/ with fresh lobster meat - $18) and the Sherry Wild Mushrooms ($14). There is also a section of fully plated entrées with options like: Seared Sea Scallops (mushroom pesto fregula salad, salsa verde, crispy shallots - $34), Butter Poached Lobster (parsnip puree, lobster beure monte – MRKT) and Cavatelli (ricotta cavatelli, fontina cheese, cheddar cheese, black truffle puree, confit garlic - $16/$29).

For lunch, menu highlights include: Prime Beef Carpaccio (house mustard sauce, shaved parmesan, arugula, Grissini -$13); Veal and Pancetta Dumplings (ginger soy sauce, micro cilantro -$12); Maine Lobster Roll (salad of greens -$19); Strega Prime Open Face Sandwich (sirloin, gorgonzola, baby tomatoes arugula -$15); and the PLT (pancetta, lettuce, tomatoes, Tuscan bread, parmesan fries -$12).

Strega Prime offers an extensive beverage program featuring house-made martinis, craft cocktails, wines and beer. The newly renovated space will feature a large wine cellar with over 1,300 selections of red and white wines and over 7,500 bottles for guests to enjoy. The extensive selection includes a number of rare and exclusive wines that date back as far as the late 1940’s. In addition to the by-the-bottle options, Strega Prime will offer 45 wines by-the-glass, as well as a selection of beers including 6 craft on-tap choices and 12 bottled beers.

Strega Prime is open Monday through Friday for lunch from 11:30am-5pm, and seven days a week for dinner service from 5pm-11pm. Strega Prime’s Ultra Lounge will be open until 2am seven nights a week. Strega Prime will also offer a Sunday brunch service, which is set to begin in the early fall of 2013.

2) On Tuesday, August 20, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Hugel & Fils. Hugel & Fils’ production averages 110,000 cases per year, of which around 90% is exported to more than 100 countries worldwide. Legal Sea Foods will team up with Frederick Wildman & Sons’ Director of Marketing & Fine Wine, Martin Sinkoff, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with Sinkoff’s choices from the Hugel & Fils vine.

The menu will be presented as followsr:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Crab & Wild Mushroom Tartlet, Thyme Lemon Aioli
Citrus Arancine, Dill Crème Fraîche
Oysters* on the Half Shell, Lime & Mint Granita
Hugel Gentil, Alsace, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Poached Sole Veronique (White Wine Sauce, Baby Mache)
Hugel Pinot Blanc, Alsace, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Pan Seared Striped Bass (Quinoa Salad, Tarragon Butter Sauce)
Hugel Riesling, Alsace, 2011
MAIN COURSE
Maine Lobster Casserole (Herbed Red Bliss Potato, Radicchio, Frisée Salad, Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette)
Hugel et Fils Riesling Jubilee Grand Cru, Alsace, 2007
DESSERT COURSE
Caramelized Pear Crostata (Honeyed Mascarpone Cheese)
Hugel et Fils Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Alsace, 2005

COST: $75 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

3) Lucia Ristorante Owner Donato Frattaroli and Executive Chef Pino Maffeo introduce the next class in the Lucia Winchester cooking series by teaching guests how to make a variety of Risotto dishes. On Wednesday, August 21, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Chef Pino will show guests the methods and techniques it takes to make the perfect fall dish just in time for autumn. This class will include hands-on demonstrations on how to make his Saffron Risotto, Wild Mushroom Risotto, and Seafood Risotto. Some topics will include different varieties of risotto, as well as recipes and cooking techniques.

The Risotto class costs $60 per person. For more information about this event, or to make a reservation for the class, please call (781) 729-0515. I'll be at this class and am looking forward to learning more about making Risotto, which is certainly one of my favorite dishes. Hope to see you there too.

4) In late August 2013, Chef Tony Maws opens The Kirkland Tap & Trotter, his second Boston-area restaurant, touting a menu of rustic, hearty fare combining ingredients and unexpected flavors that you would find Chef Maws cooking at home for family and friends. Located in Somerville, The Kirkland Tap & Trotter’s atmosphere will embody an eclectic and cozy neighborhood vibe akin to some of the best “gastropubs” in England.

“The Kirkland Tap & Trotter is an ‘every night of the week’ kind of establishment, serving favorites you would find my friends and family gathered around on a Monday night,” says Chef Tony Maws. “You’ll find the same ingredients on the menu at Kirkland Tap & Trotter that you see at Craigie, but here they will be prepared simply and perfectly executed. You won’t see any swooshes on the plates here. I wanted to create a place where I could hang, and guests can embrace my jeans and a t-shirt philosophy, feeling comfortable enough to eat with their hands and play air drums.”

The 115-seat restaurant includes a 12-seat bar, with additional seating at high top tables alongside a large open dining room. The kitchen and menu centers around a large wood-fired grill set into a masonry base, featuring dishes such as: Grilled Spice Crusted Chicken Wings, radishes, arugula; Grilled Red Chile Salmon Head, oxalis; and Grilled Sardines Provençale, parsley, red onion.

The drink menu is also representative of the libations that Chef Maws and his friends and family enjoy imbibing at home, and will feature a large beer list, and an expansive wine by the glass list tilting toward Old World terroir and funky wines made by real people. Additionally, The Kirkland Tap & Trotter has partnered with Revolution Cocktails to create a unique cocktail menu with drinks that are well-crafted but “don’t take ten minutes to make.”

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  51 Lincoln Owner Jeff Fournier and Chef de Cuisine Nate Gibson present Raw August, a month-long celebration of internationally influenced raw cuisine, featuring vegetables from 51 Lincoln’s own rooftop garden and proteins in their purest form.

During the month of August, Jeff Fournier and Nate Gibson will prepare dishes that are globally influenced, yet locally sourced. These carefully prepared dishes will not only delight your palate, but also provide you with a love of proteins in their natural state. Served with complimentary wine pairings, these dishes provide the perfect finishing touch to summer. Below are sample menu items for Raw August:

Wagu Steak Tartare with Red Onion, Capers, Truffle Dijon Dressing
Onset Oysters on the Halfshell, Pickled Ramp Mignonette, Peach Gastrique, Fresno Chili, Chervil
Colorado Lamb Kibbe, White Onion, Parsley, Kalamata Olive Vinaigrette, Naan Bread
Scallop and Mango Poke, Poi and Taro Root Chips, Radish Slaw
Cold Smoked Sail Island Salmon Tartare, House Baked Fennel Bread, Soft Boiled Farm Egg, Fennel Fronds, Pickled Mustard Seed Vinaigrette
Duo of Tartares: Yellow Fin Tuna & Fresh Blueberries, Red Onion, Lemon, Cilantro, Blueberry Aioli
Rhode Island Fluke Ceviche, Jalapeño, Lime, Cilantro, Pineapple, Avocado Espuma
Faroe Island Salmon Carpaccio, Crispy Green Bean Frites, Brandy Cream sauce

When: August 1-31 (Tuesdays through Saturdays, starting at 5:00pm)

2) From Sunday, September 8 to Sunday, September 15, restaurants and wine shops located north of Boston will join together to hold the third annual North of Boston Wine Week (NOBOWW). Sponsored by Merrimack Valley Magazine, in conjunction with NECN’s “TV Diner,” M.S. Walker, Horizon Beverage Company and Cape Ann Foodie Tours, North of Boston Wine Week will celebrate the towns north of Boston as a premier destination for fine wine and food. Throughout the week, the area’s finest businesses will highlight their wine selections with various events and great deals including everything from specially crafted wine tastings, wine dinners, wine flights, pairings, special events and more. For the complete calendar listing of events visit www.NorthOfBostonWineWeek.com.

North of Boston Wine Week will kick-off with a complimentary inaugural event at the Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, on Saturday, September 7, from 1pm-5pm, during an exclusive, free wine tasting event featuring cuisine from several participating venue’s chefs.

Buy local, drink global and join North of Boston as a vibrant food and wine community and support local businesses including: 50 Warren Restaurant, 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar, Adriatic Restaurant and Bar, Alchemy Bistro, Andiamo Restaurant + Bar, Angelina’s Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria, Blue Stove at Nordstrom, Burton’s Grill, Busa Wine & Spirits, Café Escadrille, Centro, China Blossom, Emerson By The Sea, Evviva Cucina, The Grapevine, Hanover Street Chophouse, Joseph's Trattoria, Laurie's 9:09 Gastro-Diner, Luna Rossa Ristorante, Michael's Harborside, Nathanial's at the Hawthorne Hotel, On The Bone, Oregano Pizzeria, Orzo Trattoria, Phat Cat Bistro, Ristorante Olivio, Salvatore's Restaurants, Smolak Farms, Stonehedge Inn & Spa, Ten Center Street, Tryst Restaurant, Tuscan Kitchen, Tuscan Market, Waterside Grille, and the Wine ConneXtion.

3) Executive Chef/Owner Paul Turano of Tryst Restaurant in Arlington, MA (and the soon to open “Cook” restaurant in Newton), has been nominated by Governor Deval Patrick to represent the state of Massachusetts at the Great American Seafood Cook-Off in New Orleans, Louisiana on August 3. The Great American Seafood Cook-Off is one of the nation’s most prestigious seafood competitions showcasing domestic, sustainable seafood featuring acclaimed chefs from across the country. Chefs are asked to create unique dishes and flavor combinations with domestic seafood that is native to their home states and representative of their region. Hosted in New Orleans, Louisiana, one of the most renowned cities for all things gourmet, the event is sponsored by the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and presented by the Louisiana Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board.

“It’s such an honor to represent Massachusetts in this competition,” said Chef Paul Turano. This will be the first time Massachusetts is represented at the Great American Seafood Cook-Off. The Great American Seafood Cook-Off takes place at the Morial Convention Center in New Orleans, in Hall J, alongside the Louisiana Restaurant Association Food Service Expo on August 3.

4) On Sunday, July 28, at 6pm, Chef Paul Turano of Tryst Restaurant in Arlington is collaborating with New England’s very own root beer company, Tower Root Beer, for the third annual Root Beer Dinner, celebrating Tower’s 99-year-old classic soda recipe.

Founded in Somerville, MA, in 1914, Tower Root Beer evolved from a tonic company into a specialized root beer company. During the Prohibition of the 1920’s when root beer became the substitute for beer that was no longer available, their pharmacist- perfected recipe contributed to Tower’s early success and allowed them to withstand the stock market crash of 1929, even when the bank that held their working capital could not. Spanning New England, Tower Root Beer grew into a well-known business before an unsuccessful merger and competition from the two major soda conglomerates forced them off the market. For the past 30 years, Tower’s recipe has sat under lock and key, before a third generation of the family decided to reestablish the family business after finding their grandfather's handwritten recipe.

Tryst Restaurant is celebrating the return of the timeless drink with a classic three course, $34 prix fixe dinner ($14 for optional cocktail pairing) by Chef Paul Turano featuring root beer inspired dishes and innovative cocktails inspired by the sweet treat. Reservations are required and can be made by calling Tryst at 781-641-2227.

And here is a special Recipe from Chef Turano for Root Beer Braised Short Ribs

Ingredients:
3 lbs Boneless Beef Short Ribs (about 1 1/2" thick with good marbling)
1 ea yellow onion, rough chopped
1 ea carrot, rough chopped
2 ea celery stalks, rough chopped
3 ea garlic cloves, rough chopped
3 Tbls tomato paste
4 ea fresh thyme sprigs
1 ea bay leaf
½ bottle dark beer
½ bottle Tower Root Beer
3 cups chicken stock
3 Tbls balsamic vinegar
flour, as needed
salt and pepper
canola oil, as needed

Directions:
Season short ribs with salt and pepper, dredge in the flour, bang to remove excess flour. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat, add a little canola oil and cook the ribs in batches (Do Not Overcrowd the Pan!) Brown the ribs on all sides, taking care not to burn the flour. Remove ribs and place in an oven proof casserole about six inches deep. Sear remaining ribs.

Wipe out excess oil from the sauté pan. Add the onion, carrot and celery, season with salt and pepper and continue to cook until light brown. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. Add the tomato paste and cook an additional 3-5 minutes, stirring often. Add the beer, root beer and bring to a boil for two minutes. Pour into the casserole over the ribs. Add the aromatics and chicken stock. Cover the casserole with lid or aluminum foil. Place in 300˚ oven. Half way through cooking, flip the ribs in the liquid to ensure even cooking. Cook approximately two and a half hours, until the short ribs are tender, but not falling apart.

Remove the meat from the casserole, strain the liquid through a sieve, skim excess fat and return to casserole or a stove top safe pan. Reduce the liquid until the desired consistency. Return ribs to the liquid to slowly reheat. Serves 4-6 people.

5) On July 31-August 25, Rosa Mexicano will launch their annual Ice Cream Festival, featuring a dedicated menu of sweet and salty ice cream flavors, Paleta popsicles, dessert guacamole, ice cream-stuffed churros and more.

Part of their ongoing Flavors of Mexico series, the beloved festival will introduce specials including but not limited to:
· Guacamole de Postre: a decadent sundae of sweet avocado ice cream "guacamole," prepared tableside with fresh raspberries, white chocolate shavings & coconut crunch; served with piloncillo chocolate sauce and cinnamon sugar Buñuelos
· "Paleta" Popsicles: in flavors such as Guava, Chile & Huckleberry; and Papaya & Passionfruit
· Ice Cream Stuffed Churros: a twist on the traditional "deep fried ice cream," three churro fritters filled with various ice cream flavors such as malted coffee and plantain & peanut butter; served with chocolate fudge ganache
· Ice Cream Cones: highlights include Plantain & Peanut Butter; Strawberry Rose; Sweet Cream, Mexican Chocolate & Cajeta Swirl; and Mexican Sour Gherkin & Jalapeño Sorbet

6) Bringing a taste of the North End to the Greenway, Carla and Christine Pallotta have now opened the doors to the relocated NEBO at 520 Atlantic Avenue. The new 180-seat restaurant, with a 65-seat patio on the edge of the Greenway with 180-degree views of the Financial District, is now open for dinner service, and will add lunch in the next few weeks, followed by a takeout program specializing in Italian sandwiches, baked goods, and pastries.

“After eight years at the original NEBO, our hearts – and our parking spaces – will always be in the North End,” say sisters, chefs, and co-owners Carla and Christine Pallotta. “Though we’re not technically located in the neighborhood any more, we’re still close enough to do our morning shopping. Instead of ‘North End Boston,’ NEBO now means ‘North End brought over’ to the Greenway.”

In addition to the pizzas, handmade pastas, and antipasti for which NEBO is famous for, the new NEBO menu will offer even more traditional Italian dishes that the original, smaller NEBO kitchen wasn’t equipped to execute. These new dishes include about 10 new pizzas and summer entrees that focus on seafood and vegetables such as Branzino, Squid Ink Pasta with Salt Cod Confit, and Cioppino with Lobster, Shrimp, Calamari, Mussels and Smelts in a Spicy Tomato Brodo with Crostini.

NEBO has floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides of the building, a vaulted brick ceiling, and an open layout that includes: a 60-person bar area with two communal tables, an Italian marble bar, and 12-seat drink rail; a 120-person dining room with banquettes, coffee-stained rift oak tables, and chocolate brown Herman Miller bucket chairs interspersed with refinished Thonet chairs from the old NEBO; and a semi-private dining room with an Italian alabaster chandelier. The state-of-the-art open kitchen with adjoining gelato and sandwich bar is the “dream kitchen” Christine imagined eight years ago when she crafted the business plan for NEBO’s original North End location. During the warmer months, NEBO’s outdoor patio on the edge of the Greenway includes custom furniture designed to match the original cast iron work of Atlantic Wharf, nutmeg umbrellas, and Winston Flowers arrangements.

NEBO is now open for dinner Monday through Saturday beginning at 5:00 PM. Lunch service begins late July; takeout by September. NEBO is closed on Sundays.

I am a huge fan of NEBO so I am very excited to check out their new location, and I think it is great that they will soon be open for lunch too. This is definitely a restaurant I strongly encourage my readers to check out.

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Cape Cod Chef's Table: A Taste of the Cape

"All of this is to say that today you can find more and more people living off the land and making a living with what is available to them on Cape Cod. And this is helping Cape Cod become a food destination as well as a popular tourist spot."
--John F. Carafoli (p.xiv)

This afternoon, I'll be traveling to Provincetown, on Cape Cod, to spend several days as part of a media trip sponsored by the exploring Provincetown Tourism Office. I'll be dining at a number of restaurants, as well as checking out bakeries, food markets, wine shops and more. Plus, I will be immersed in historical explorations, a whale watch and other tourist activities. It seems appropriate then that today I should review a new cookbook which concentrates on Cape Cod.

I am impressed with Cape Cod's Chef's Table: Extraordinary Recipes from Buzzards Bay to Provincetown by John F. Carafoli (Lyons Press, June 2013, $24.95). This is a hardcover book of 192 pages, which is part cookbook and part travel guide to the 70-mile long Cape Cod peninsula. John Carafoli is a food stylist, consultant, and food writer who lives in West Barnstable. He also wrote Food Photography and Styling and two children’s cookbooks, Look Who’s Cooking and The Cookie Cookbook.

"You can now find Italian, Brazilian, Mexican, and French restaurants, but there is always that touch of Cape Cod cultural DNA in each restaurant, fresh and local."
--John F. Carafoli (p.xiv

The book is broken down into three main sections: Upper Cape, Mid Cape and Lower Cape. Each section consists of 12-15 listings, mainly restaurants though there are also listings for inns, farms, a tea shop, a winery and even a food truck. This is but a representative sampling, including several iconic locations, of what can be found on the Cape. Each of the listings provides some basic information and stories (such as their history) about these establishments. Each listing also includes one or two recipes from each of those places.

You will find lots of seafood restaurants mentioned but there is plenty of diversity, and you will also find Mexican, Brazilian, French and other restaurants. The recipes range from cocktails to lobster rolls, pizza to ice cream, clam chowder to English toffee. Many of the recipes even come with wine suggestions, a great idea, and some of their suggestions are intriguing. Australian Semillon, Italian Ribola Gialla, Italian Dolcetto, Portuguese Vinho Verde. Most of the recipes seem relatively easy to moderate in complexity and my favorite may be the Buttermilk Fried Chicken from Cranberry's Restaurant & Pub.

Besides these listings, there are numerous other articles spread out through the book, detailing more about the food life on the Cape, including: How to Eat a Lobster, Bourne Scallop Festival, All About Oysters, Cranberry Bog Harvest, Cape Cod Cottage Industries (from jams to potato chips), Clambakes, Food From the Sea (fishermen), and The Farmers Who Feed Us. These interesting items add to the reader's comprehension of the culture of Cape Cod and are a nice addition to the rest of the book.

The photography in the book, done by Francine Zaslow, is beautiful and compelling, and you will find a photograph on nearly every page. Not only will you find alluring photos of the various recipes, but you will also find the people and places of the Cape. Very well done.

Overall, this is an impressive and fascinating glimpse into the food world of Cape Cod, an excellent cookbook and travel guide. It has made me even more eager to journal to Provincetown. Check out this book and I bet it will intrigue you to make a journey to Cape Cod this summer. Or at least cook a few recipes that will remind you of the Cape.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Owner & Chef Brian Poe is getting ready to flip for National Burger Month in May at The Tip Tap Room in Beacon Hill. Each week, Chef Poe will feature a different 8 oz. game-meat burger that takes a walk on the wild side: Elk Burger; Yak Burger; Antelope Burger; and, Buffalo Burger. Each reimagined American classic comes served with French fries and is dressed with toppings and condiments.

These specialty burgers will join Poe’s trio of signature burgers ($12.95 each), which are available at lunch and dinner: Steak Burger (lettuce, tomato, veal demi, A1 aioli, Tip Tap dressing); Lamb Burger (lettuce, tomato, tzatziki, lamb glace); and, Turkey Burger (lettuce, tomato, cranberry fennel slaw, turkey gravy). Customize any burger to your palate with an assortment of add-on accompaniments including: sautéed mushrooms; bacon; sautéed onions; Swiss; cheddar; American; and, beer cheese sauce.

Cost: Wild game specialty burgers: $14 each
         Signature burgers: $12.95

2) Spice things up on Sunday, May 5 at Tryst. In celebration of Cinco de Mayo, Tryst is offering guests a free shrimp taco with the purchase of a “Tryst-a-rita,” Tryst’s house margarita. From 4:30pm-9pm, guests will receive one of Executive Chef Paul Turano’s famed shrimp tacos when they order a margarita ($10) in the bar & lounge area or dining room. No food or cocktail substitutions. Limited to one shrimp taco per cocktail order. Limited to one per guest.

3) Join the team at Island Creek Oyster Bar as they welcome winemaker Christian Moreau of the Domaine Christian Moreau Pére & Fils for a dinner celebrating Chablis and its perfect pairing – seafood! Christian brings his portfolio of Chablis wines ranging from unadulterated AC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlee) through Premier and Grand Cru holdings to Island Creek Oyster Bar on Tuesday, May 14, at 6:30pm.

The terroir of Chablis is the perfect match for ICOB’s sea-to-table fare. The soils in the Chablis region of France contain fossilized oysters shells giving the wine notes of mineral and salt from old sea beds – an oyster bar’s dream. ICOB is meticulous about the fishermen from which they source their seafood and farmers that grow their wines so the Moreau family’s tradition of carefully harvesting and sorting grapes by hand for optimal quality is an ideal match for not just the restaurant’s menu, but also its ethos.

Cost: $115 per person includes a four-course prix fixe menu (raw bar, appetizer, entrée, dessert) and paired wines, exclusive of gratuity & tax.
For Reservations, please call 617-532-5300.

4) Owner Brian Poe and Executive Chef Eric Gburski are burger guys, so much so that they launched Estelle’s Burger Joint in April, made up of a quintet of gourmet burgers that are offered six days a week until 5pm.

To rightfully honor National Burger Month in May, the duo will be grilling up an exclusive beauty of a special available by night: Big Beauty Burger (wicked hot aioli, cheddar cheese, Estelle’s B n’ B pickles - $12.95). For one month only, The Big Beauty Burger will join the ranks with Estelle’s signature creations that each come served with house-cut fries and a variety of sauces: Estelle’s House Burger (100% beef burger with American cheese, tomato, onion, Estelle’s B n’ B pickles, potato roll - $7.95); Double Trouble (double 100% beef burgers, double American cheese, tomato, onion, Estelle’s B n’ B pickles, potato roll - $12.95); Cajun Turkey Burger (spiced turkey with American cheese, tomato, onion, Estelle’s B n’ B pickles, potato roll - $9.95); Crispy Catfish Burger (pan fried, breaded and spiced catfish with lettuce, tomato, onion, Estelle’s B n’ B pickles, potato roll - $10.95); and, Vegan Burger (black eyed pea and corn burger with lettuce, tomato, onion, Estelle’s B n’ B pickles - $8.95).

5) Lee Napoli, owner of Chocolee Chocolates, is a skilled Pastry Chef and is now realizing her dream of bringing top quality baked goods to the masses with the opening later this month of a new bakery, Bread + Butter. This will be an artisan bakery-cafe designed to showcase her library of sweet and savory recipes, developed during her years at Boston restaurants like Maison Robert, Anago, Metro, and Sandrine’s.

It will feature Napoli'’s éclairs, croissants and napoleons; as well as other essential urban fare like sandwiches on fresh baked bread, unique entrees, exceptional coffee, crisp salads, and of course, hand-dipped chocolates from Chocolee Chocolates. It will be a 2,500 sq ft café and bakery located at the corner of Cross and Salem streets, where the North End meets the Rose Kennedy Greenway. Passers-by can watch Lee Napoli at work daily through a large window that connects the kitchen to the street.

I am a huge fan of Chocolee Chocolates and I have enjoyed Lee's eclairs, beignets and more. This new cafe/bakery is exciting and I look forward to checking it out once it opens this month.

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Gustave Lorentz: More Alsatian Wine Treasures

Charlie Sheen, oysters, white blood, bäckeoffe and Riesling.

What do all five of these have in common?  I would learn that fascinating answer on a recent Monday evening as I drank some Alsatian wines with dinner.

At Island Creek Oyster Bar, I dined with Pascal Schiele, the Export Director of Gustave Lorentz, and Matt Demers of Quintessential Wines.  It was a fun, tasty and informative experience as I got to sample and learn about the Alsatian wines of Gustave Lorentz winery. This winery is making a new marketing effort in Massachusetts, and based on what I tasted, these are wines that you should place on your radar and seek out. For some background on Alsace, please check out my prior post concerning an Alsatian wine dinner.

The Gustave Lorentz winery, with a history extending back to 1836, is situated in the village of Bergheim in central Alsace. It remains a family winery, now in its sixth generation, and they currently have about 85 acres of vineyards on the hills of Altenberg de Bergheim, 4 acres planted on the hills of the Grand Cru Kanzlerberg and 30 acres in the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim. The winery also purchases grapes from other vineyards, mainly in Bergheim.

Interestingly, the average cost of a vineyard in Alsace is the second highest in France, lower only than Champagne. Alsace vineyards, on average, are even more expensive than those in Burgundy or Bordeaux. Despite this high expense, Alsatian wines are not unduly expensive and you will find plenty of good values. Maybe certain regions in California, with expensive vineyard land, could take some lessons from Alsace in this regard.

As of 2012, Lorentz now has a significant portion of their vineyards certified organic and will soon be releasing a number of organic wines. Approximately 50% of their production is sold within France, mostly to restaurants, but that is going to change as French wine consumption continues to decrease. In response, the winery has been seeking markets elsewhere, to boost their exports. To bottle their wines, they use a combination of corks and screwcaps, and their high end wines use only cork as they don't feel they have sufficient experience with screwcaps for those wines. Their corks cost $1 each so definitely are not cheap.

They export to about 55 countries, making them the second largest Alsace exporter in the world. At this time, they sell about a dozen wines in their portfolio in the U.S., and 7 of those are available in Massachusetts (a few never before having been available here). Overall, their wines can be found in about 30 states and they are continuing to expand their distribution. Their U.S. distributor, for the last three years, has been Quintessential Wines. In the near future, they may start selling some of their Single Vineyard and Grand Cru wines in Massachusetts.

Pascal Schiele, pictured above, was born in Alsace and has deep roots in the wine industry. His great grandfather and grandfather were winemakers and two of his uncles are still winemakers. Pascal has desired to join the wine industry since he was a young boy. He never wanted to do anything else and his passion for wine was deeply evident at dinner. Pascal began in the wine exporting business in 1996 and joined the Gustave Lorentz winery in 2001.

During the evening, I asked Pascal what question that no writer had ever asked him before, and which he wishes they would, and his response was quick: "What color blood do I have?" An odd question to be sure, yet the answer resolved much. Pascal stated that his blood is white, because he has Riesling running through his veins. That is his favorite wine, that which most excites him. He certainly enjoys many other wines, but Riesling bears a special place in his heart...and in his veins.

I also asked him about some of his favorite Alsatian foods and three dishes came to mind. Choucroûte, the traditional dish of sauerkraut with meat and potatoes. Bäckeoffe, a casserole with meat & potatoes, often a winter meal. Escargot, a dish made by his beloved grandmother who was born in 1912. Over the course of the evening, Pascal told a couple stories about his grandmother and it was clear how important family was to him.

One of Pascal's favorite aspects of wine is that it "makes everyone on the same level." People of different social and economic classes all become equals while drinking wine. Consuming wine together, they share the same experience, which brings them together in a convivial atmosphere. It creates a positive bond, uniting people from diverse backgrounds. What a special aspect of wine!

Dinner was of course excellent, which I expected from Island Creek Oyster Bar, one of the best seafood restaurants in the city. We started with a dozen raw Oysters, four different types, and then I moved onto a bowl of Clam Chowder. The chowder was creamy, without being overly thick, and full of rich clam flavors with plenty of potato pieces, a bit of smokiness and delicious biscuit croutons. For my entree, I chose the Seafood Casserole, a hearty and tasty dish containing lobster, scallop and haddock. For dessert, I thoroughly enjoyed the Honey Crisp Apple Fritters with a Bourbon Caramel sauce. The wines and the food paired very well together, and I was pleased to have the opportunity to taste the wines with food rather than simply on their own.

Gustave Lorentz produces gastronomic wines, intended to accompany food, and they best can be described as fresh, clean, well-balanced and mostly dry. The six wines I tasted all conformed to that description and I often marveled at their clean taste, which I was later informed is the signature of Lorentz wines. These are also wines intended to reflect the terroir of Alsace and their vineyards.

We began our evening with two sparkling wines, Crémant d'Alsace. The term "crémant" basically means "creamy" and originally referred to sparkling wines that were produced with less pressure, which tended to make them taste more creamy than effervescent. They can offer excellent value, being less expensive than Champagne.

The NV Cremant D'Alsace Brut ($24.99) might be labeled as non-vintage, but the winery does not blend vintages so all of the grapes in this wine are from the same vintage. The Cremant is a blend, in equal proportions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. It spends 14-24 months on the lees, is disgorged three times a year, has an alcohol content of 12% and only 4000 cases are produced annually. It has a pleasant, fruity aroma of with a creamy, bubbly taste up front which finishes crisp and clean. There are appealing tastes of green apple, peach and melon. This is the type of sparkling wine that is going to appeal to many bubbly lovers.  

The NV Cremant D'Alsace Rosé ($24.99), as per law, must be produced from 100% Pinot Noir. It spends about 15 months on the lees, has an alcohol content of 12% and only 1500 cases are produced annually. It will be available in Massachusetts in early May. Vintage matters greatly for their Pinot Noir, and they need low yields for the best fruit. 2005 and 2009 were very good years for their Pinot. I was enamored though with this Cremant, relishing the alluring red fruit aroma. On the palate, it was crisper, and not as creamy, as the Brut with a dry taste of various red fruits, from strawberry to cherry. A fine sipping bubbly, I would enjoy this on its own or with various foods. Simply delicious and highly recommended.

My love affair continued with the 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir ($18.99). The winery once was not strong in Rosé but as the general demand for Rosé wines increased, they chose to raise their production levels. The wine has an alcohol content of 12.5% and only 2500 cases are produced annually. With a bright pink color, the Rosé has a more subtle nose, subtle hints of red fruit, and on the palate, it is dry, clean and crisp with bright red fruit flavors. Refreshing and tasty, I couldn't get enough of this wine. This was my favorite wine of the evening and again it is something I could enjoy on its own or with food. As there are very few Alsatian Rosés in the U.S. market, this is a more unique wine. Highly recommended.

The 2010 Pinot Blanc Reserve ($18.99) is a blend of 90% Auxerrois and 10% Pinot Blanc, with an alcohol content of 12.5%. Pascal stated that Pinot Blanc is a "wonderful introduction" to Alsatian wines and is a "pure pleasure" wine. From its delightful melon aroma to its crisp, clean taste with pleasing flavors of melon, peach and citrus, this was an easy drinking, crowd pleaser. It has enough character to keep it from being too simple, and I would agree with Pascal that it is an excellent introduction to Alsatian wines, one sure to lure in wine lovers. And once you lure them in, they will likely stay for the rest of the Alsatian wines.

The 2008 Pinot Gris Reserve ($22.99) is made of 100% Pinot Gris. There is an Alsatian legend that in the 16th century, Baron Lazare de Schwendi traveled to Hungary where he found and enjoyed the sweet Tokay wines. He brought back a number of vines and they supposedly turned out to be Pinot Gris. Most likely though, the truth is that Pinot Gris vines were brought to Alsace from Burgundy. Unlike many cheap Pinot Grigio wines, this Pinot Gris possesses plenty of character and complexity. It has a richer mouthfeel, with prominent peach flavors, a streak of minerality and nice acidity. Delicious and worth seeking out.

The 2010 Gewurtztraminer Reserve ($24.99) is made of 100% Gewurtztraminer, with an alcohol content of 13.1%. The aroma is enticing, and you won't mistake it for anything else except Gewurtztraminer. On the palate, it possesses very bold and strong, spicy flavors and aromatics, including ginger, lychee, and floral notes. Though I liked this wine, and would have enjoyed trying it with some spicy Asian cuisine, it was my least favorite of the six. There was nothing wrong with this wine, but my personal preference would have been for the flavors to have been slightly less bold.

As I have written before, Alsatian wines don't seem to be on the radar of the average consumer. They need greater publicity to make consumers aware of their quality, value and excellent taste. Restaurants and wine stores need to work on hand selling these wines, recommending them to consumers who are open to expanding their palates. Wine writers need to highlight these wines, to speak of their virtues. The wines of Gustave Lorentz would be a fine introduction to consumers of the wonders of Alsatian wines.

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Buy American Seafood: Four Excellent Choices

It is disturbing that Americans currently import 91% of their seafood, up 5% from 2010. Less than 10% of the seafood we consume is from our own country. That is a disheartening statistic and I previously Ranted about this issue, imploring Americans to eat more domestic seafood. Paul Greenberg, a writer, speaker and author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food, understands this issue and he too strongly recommends that we should purchase more American seafood.

In the new issue of Food & Wine (May 2013), Greenberg wrote an article, Sustainable Seafood: The Good News, offering four excellent and sustainable seafood choices for Americans. These options include Pacific Spot Prawn, Northern Porgy, Atlantic Sea Scallop and Gulf of Mexico Bycatch. Look for these seafoods on restaurant menus, in the supermarket, at farmers' markets and other spots where you purchase seafood.

Though Pacific Spot Prawn is a specific species (Pandalus platyceros), two related species are also sometimes marketed as spot prawn, including Sidestripe Shrimp (Pandalopsis dispar) and Coonstripe Shrimp (Pandalus hypsinotis). They can be found in the Pacific Northwest, British Colombia and Alaska. These are highly sustainable, significantly because of the method of catch. Most other shrimp are caught by trawl nets but spot prawn are captured in small pots, reminiscent of lobster traps. These pots have very little bycatch and cause little, if any, environmental damage. One intriguing fact about spot prawn is that they are protandric hermaphrodites, meaning that they begin their life as a male and later transform into a female for the rest of their life.

These large shrimp can grow to nearly 12 inches in length, which might bring to mind a lobster, and they taste delicious. They can be grilled, steamed, baked or even served as sushi. Greenberg claims that they taste so rich that eating more than a dozen causes a "spot prawn coma." Previously, most spot prawns were sent to Japan but American restaurants and fish markets are starting to see the benefits of spot prawns. Keep an eye out for them!  

Northern Porgy, also known as Scup, are located in the Northwest Atlantic Ocean and they are an example of how fisheries can bring back endangered fish. During the 1990s, porgy was considered endangered due to overfishing so tough regulations were put into place to hopefully bring back the species. This was a great success and in 2009, the species was considered officially rebuilt and stocks are now high. One of the problems had been that squid trawlers caught too much porgy as bycatch so changes to the squid fisheries helped greatly limit this from occurring.

Porgy are available year round, and the fish itself is small, generally weighing around two pounds. They have a mild, but compelling taste, and a fluffy texture, making them versatile in cooking. They can be a good substitute rather than tilapia or flounder.  However, they are still an underutilized species which needs to be promoted more by restaurants and fish markets.

Scallops are a popular seafood but people should realize that Atlantic Sea Scallops are a sustainable choice. Like Porgy, Atlantic Sea Scallops were endangered back in the 1990s but the industry has rebounded and by 2001, the industry was once again sustainable. One beneficial side effect of these new fishing regulations is that many of the scallops are larger than they once were, as the trawling nets have large openings, allowing smaller scallops to remain in the sea. I love scallops and encourage people to seek out Atlantic Sea Scallops.

Greenberg's final recommendation is not a single species but an entire category, Gulf of Mexico bycatch. He mentions that seafood distributor Louisiana Foods created a program, Total Catch, which is a means to sell bycatch from Gulf fishermen. Though some might consider some of these bycatch species to be "trashfish," chefs and home cooks can easily make delicious meals from these varied species. Unfortunately, the Louisiana Foods website has little information, or little easily found, on their Total Catch program beside a listing of seafood. They apparently have a bycatch market at their retail space, and it appears they can also sell these bycatch species all across the U.S. as they do the rest of their seafood. Selling bycatch is certainly an intriguing and sustainable idea, which simply requires consumers to be more open to the types of seafood they will consume.

Eat more domestic seafood, and I hope these four recommendations from Paul Greenberg help motivate you.

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The Fish Head Whisperer Reigns Supreme

The Fish Head Whisperer is the Champion!

I recently competed in the 3rd Annual iPura Tweet & Blogfest at IBSS 2013, the 2013 International Boston Seafood Show. In this contest, local bloggers vied against each other to present the best, most comprehensive and interesting coverage of the seafood show. An impartial third party judged the contest and the top prize was a significant chunk of change, $1000. Yesterday, I learned that I have been selected as the winner and I am quite happy.

This was not the first time I have won. I was the champion of the 1st Annual iPura Tweet & Blogfest and in their 2nd Annual Contest, they added a prize for Best Coverage of Seafood Sustainability (sponsored by Global G.A.P.), which I also won. This year, there was only a single prize for Best Overall Coverage and my efforts lead to success. Kudos to all the Fish Heads who contributed to my win.

I would also like to thank the contest judge, Fiona Robinson, who is the Associate Publisher and Editor of SeaFood Business, for her time and effort in judging this contest. SeaFood Business is a cool and informative magazine that covers the seafood industry and I highly recommend that everyone interested in seafood check it out. Personally, I find plenty of story ideas in each and every issue of the magazine, as well as learning more about various seafood topics.

Big thanks also go to the good people of iPura, a food safety company, and especially Jason Simas, who runs their blog and social media. iPura has been supportive of Boston bloggers for several years and they understand the value of social media. They have also been extremely supportive of seafood issues and have helped elevate the visibility of the International Boston Seafood Show. The local print media, the newspapers and magazines, provide very little, if any, coverage of IBSS, often little more than a single basic article. Yet local bloggers, due to the iPura contest, have provides plenty of stories about IBSS.

If you know me, you understand that I am competitive so I worked hard to win this contest. I wrote a dozen posts about IBSS, tweeted up a storm, posted a YouTube video and more. I would have written about IBSS even if the contest did not exist, but the contest provided an additional motivation. The Seafood Show is a compelling event, and highly recommended for anyone who loves seafood and writes about seafood topics. I previously wrote about the reasons you should attend IBSS.

What does it take to win this contest? Based on my experiences, let me offer some suggestions and advice on how you could win the contest, which hopefully will be held again next year. First, the event is held for three days and it would be most beneficial if you attended for all three days. The more time you are there, the more information you can gather. You will be able to attend more seminars and panel discussions, be able to speak with people at more booths, and be able to taste more seafood samples. The show is huge, and you really need all that time to get an excellent sense of everything.

Second, though you receive bonuses for the number of posts and tweets you make, the true key is diversity and depth. Ten blog posts, that are all basically the same, probably won't reign supreme over five posts that show great depth and diversity. You need to write about a variety of seafood topics, and do more than present shallow, surface coverage of those topics. For example, plenty of people will write about sustainability, but your post will shine if it is more creative, original and shows a greater depth. There is no dearth of story material at IBSS so you just have to look below the surface for the most interesting stories.

Third, size does matter. As I said, you receive bonuses for the number of posts and tweets you make and that can make the difference in comparing the work of different people. You should be able to write multiple posts about IBSS, ensuring each post adds to your work, and is not just a rehash of another post. One or two posts probably won't be sufficient to touch on all of the diversity and depth available at IBSS. You will need to write numerous posts to address all of the different issues and stories you find at the seafood show. Ten blog posts, each showing diversity and depth, will trump five blog posts which do the same.

You can't win though unless you enter the contest. In 2014, the Seafood Show will be held March 16-18, 2014, so make plans to be there and hopefully the contest will be held once again. If so, I will welcome any and all competition. Come see if you can become the new Fish Head Whisperer!

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On Tuesday, April 9, at 7pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Jordan Winery, a Sonoma County-based winery that specializes in producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Legal Sea Foods will team up Jordan Winery’s Assistant Winemaker, Maggie Kruse, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with choices from their vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Scallop Tiradito* Al Aji Limo, Micro Cilantro, Choclo
Oysters on the Half Shell, Fuji Apple Mignonette
Tempura Lobster Bites, Sweet & Sour Aioli
Jordan Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, 2010
FIRST COURSE
Crab Meat Tartare in Salsa Verde (Green Apple & Ginger Vinaigrette)
Jordan Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, 2011
SECOND COURSE
Mesquite Wood Grilled Tuna Steak* (Creamy Hedgehog Mushroom Risotto, Blackberry Chutney)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2008
THIRD COURSE
Herb Crusted Lamb Chop* (Black Truffle Mashed Potato, Grilled Ramps)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2004
CHEESE COURSE
Aged Vermont Dandy, Grafton 3 Year Aged Cheddar, Maple Wood Aged Cheddar (Grilled Francese, Cherry Compote, Dark Chocolate Shavings)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2002

Cost: $95 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

2) On Saturday, April 6, Horizons for Homeless Children will host their annual Spring Event, A Night For Tomorrow, followed by the first annual Spring Event After-Party. Starting at 9:30 p.m., guests can come enjoy a fun-filled evening with the lively Horizons’ Young Professionals Group. The evening will feature late-night drinks, dessert, dancing and views of the skyline from the beautiful State Room.

All proceeds from the After-Party (as well at the annual Spring Event) will directly benefit Horizons for Homeless Children.
COST: Tickets are $75 each
WHERE: State Room 60 State Street, 33rd Floor Boston
FOR TICKETS: www.horizonsforhomeless.org/springevent

3) For the first time ever, Tavolo will open its doors on Easter Sunday, with service from 1pm-8pm. In addition to its regular Italianate menu, Tavolo will feature a variety of a la carte brunch and dinner specials, some of which will appear on the new spring menu. Chef de Cuisine Nuno Alves loves cooking with rabbit, which his family raised and ate as he grew up with 10 siblings in Somerville. Nuno has also become something of a local expert on American lamb.

On the Tavolo menu Sunday, March 31 and beyond:
Braised Rabbit Ragu over Housemade Gnocchi
Truffled Egg or Bacala Pizza
Asparagus and Bacon Salad
Spring Pea Soup
Ligurian Whole Trout Bourride
House-Butchered Lamb Two Ways: smoked breast / roast leg
Confit Artichoke Tart in whole grain crust, inspired by Maria Speck's Ancient Grains for Modern Meals Eggs and Peppers over Polenta
Squid Ink Linguini with Cockles and Tomatoes
Rhubarb Panna Cotta

4) Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week will be held from April 4-13, with a three course Lunch at $16.95 and a three course Dinner at $29.95. At least 49 restaurants will be participating this year. Doug Bates, the President of the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce stated: "Every year we welcome new restaurants to the program and new dining guests to the Seacoast. We thank our locally owned and operated restaurants, chefs and farms for providing incredible product at a tremendous value as part of Restaurant Week. This year we are delighted that Portsmouth's reputation as a dining destination is being recognized nationally, with our chefs earning national honors and acclaim."

Bates is referring to two local chefs, Chef Evan Mallett of Black Trumpet Bistro, a James Beard Award semi-finalist and Chef Matt Louis of Moxy, a Food & Wine Magazine People's Best New Chef 2013 Nominee. I previously raved about Moxy and awarded it my Favorite New Hampshire Restaurant of 2012.

A trend for Restaurant Week this year is an expanded offering of Gluten Free and Vegetarian menus. There are over a dozen restaurants also offering gluten free and/or vegetarian menu options. They include The River House, Blue Moon Evolution, Brazo, Cava, Common Man, Green Monkey, Martingale Wharf, Moxy, Tulsi and more. You can find Restaurant Week menus for about 70% of the participating restaurants on the website.

Interestingly, some of the restaurants offer even better deals that the usual. For example, The Portsmouth Gas Light Co., B.G.'s Boathouse and Cafe Nostimo each offer a complimentary glass of wine or beer. The Great American Grill offers a free glass of House Wine. Cava offers a four course dinner rather than the usual three courses. Tio Juan's Margaritas Mexican Restaurant and Grill 28 are offering their three course meals all day for only $16.95. So why not give Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week a try?

5) On Easter Sunday, March 31, Turner Fisheries is offering a special brunch from 11am-3pm. For $69 per person, ($23 for children ages 5 to 12, under 5 years no charge) guests can enjoy a chef attended carving station, both a cold a hot buffet, and a plethora of desserts. Guests can indulge in a few of Turner classics such as the Clam Chowder and the New England Seafood Harvest complete with northern shrimp cocktail, cape littlenecks and island creek oyster. There are also traditional Easter brunch classics with a “Turner twist” including Crab Cake Benedict and Carved Lamb Chops with caramelized onion rolls from the chef’s station.

For the full menu selection, click here. For reservations please call: 617-424-7425

6) On Tuesday, April 23, The Beehive presents a tribute to the “father of jazz,” Louis Armstrong with an evening of live performance featuring some of his most iconic work. Join The Beehive as musician Eric Bloom and guests take the stage to honor one of the most legendary musicians of all time.

Widely remembered for his 1968 hit song “What a Wonderful World,” Armstrong was best known for his superb trumpet skills and iconic raspy voice. He pioneered the jazz genre-- shifting its focus from collaborative group performances to solo performances with scatting and singing, and was one of the first African American musicians to make his mark on the music scene.

From 8pm-12am, the music of the great Louis Armstrong will take over The Beehive as current jazz musician Eric Bloom plays some favorite tunes. Bloom broke into the jazz scene at the young age of 17 when he was chosen as a soloist for the All Eastern jazz band that performed at Carnegie Hall. In 2009 he began playing with highly-acclaimed singer-songwriter Diane Birch and opened for legendary musicians and fresh pop icons including James Morrison, Mat Kearny and Nick Jonas, and appeared on several national TV Shows including the Today Show, the Jimmy Kimmel Show and the David Letterman Show. In 2011 Bloom started playing with two critically-acclaimed funk bands Soulive and Lettuce, and since then he has performed with Dr. John, Pharohe Monch, Billy Martin and Talib Kweli to name a few.

No cover charge, cash bar, reservations recommended.

7) Wines will be poured and cuisine will be served on Saturday, April 20, from 12pm-5pm, at The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, as they welcome guests to A Tasting for the Ages. Wine expert Aldo Rafanelli, from the famed House of Antinori will pour select wines as guests learn about the 600-year-old family dynasty, while complimentary Italian fare will be provided by North Shore favorite, Salvatore’s Andover, for all to enjoy.

With wine-making roots dating all the way back to family members in the 1385 Winemakers Guild of Florence, The House of Antinori has been in the business for over six centuries. Owning vineyards in Chianti Classico, Bolgheri, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Orvieto, and Washington State, the family has honored Italian traditions across multiple generations. Joining the family in 1987 as the sole U.S. representative, Aldo Rafanelli of Ste. Michelle’s Estate has carried the Antinori tradition overseas and will be at the Wine ConneXtion to guide guests with his passion and extensive knowledge, while providing them with rare insight into his 26 years with the company.

Walk-ins are encouraged and welcome all day! The event is Free to the public. Please note: Must be 21 or older.

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All About The International Boston Seafood Show 2013

"It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming."
--John Steinbeck

This past week, I have been immersed in the ocean, swimming with the fishes. The 2013 International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) is past and I have written a bunch of posts this week about it, exploring some of the stories I found there. To be beneficial for my readers, I am compiling all of the links to my IBSS articles into a single place. This post will be that repository, and as such will be updated whenever I write another related article about IBSS. There is a good possibility that I will follow up on certain seafood issues in the near future. And if you have any questions about the Seafood Show, feel free to ask.

On this past Monday at IBSS, the SeaFood Business released its second Show Daily magazine and I was pleasantly surprised to find that one of my tweets had been selected as their "Tweet of the Day." My tweet stated: "@BostonSeafood Show is healthy for you. Lots of exercise via walking, lots of Omega-3s from seafood, good info for your brain. #ibss13." As they select only two tweets during the entire show for their daily magazine, I was honored to have been chosen.

Here is the list of my IBSS posts:

Rant: Get Thee To The Seafood Show!
SeaShare: Seafood For Hungry Americans
Rant: Wake Up Japan, Bluefin Are In Danger
Rant: Stop Worrying, Seafood Is Safe
International Boston Seafood Show: Japanese Pavilion
Perceptions of Seafood Sustainability
Verlasso Salmon: An Update
International Boston Seafood Show: Food of Interest
International Boston Seafood Show: Some Highlights
International Boston Seafood Show: Fish Fun & Photos
Eat More U.S. Seafood: The Gulf Coast
U.S. Aquaculture Advocacy

Next year, the International Boston Seafood Show will be renamed the Seafood Expo North America as part of a global rebranding effort. Will you attend in 2014? I hope to be there.

"But more wonderful than the lore of old men and the lore of books is the secret lore of ocean."
--H. P. Lovecraft

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U.S. Aquaculture Advocacy

"Oysters are the most tender and delicate of all seafoods. The stay in bed all day and night. They never work or take exercise, are stupendous drinkers, and wait for their meals to come to them."
--Hector Bolitho

As I have mentioned before, about 50% of the world's seafood production is through aquaculture and it is necessary if we intend to expand our seafood consumption. There is an insufficient supply of wild stocks to fulfill all our needs, especially if we can get everyone to eat seafood at least twice a week. The U.S. imports an unbelievable 91% of our seafood, and much of that comes from foreign aquaculture. Such aquaculture may not be sustainable and the media has indicated all of the problems, actual and potential, from those operations. The U.S. has little control over this overseas aquaculture, so what can we do?

What about U.S. aquaculture?

The U.S. currently engages in only a small amount of aquaculture and we rank 13th in total worldwide aquaculture production. Most of U.S. aquaculture is made up of freshwater farms, the majority which raise catfish. About 20% of U.S. aquaculture is for marine species, and 80% of that is for shellfish, such as oysters, clams and mussels. This marine aquaculture provides only 1.5% of U.S. seafood consumption. There have been a number of calls for increased aquaculture in the U.S. and that might be exactly what we need to increase U.S. purchases of domestic seafood.

At the International Boston Seafood Show, I stopped by the booth of the National Aquaculture Association (NAA), an advocacy group for U.S. aquaculture. Their mission is "To provide a unified national voice for aquaculture that ensures its sustainability, protects its profitability, and encourages its development in an environmentally responsible manner." The two main issues that get raised about all aquaculture are whether it is sustainable or not, and whether it is safe or not. The media often likes to talk up the risks and dangers of aquaculture, exaggerating the perils. That can create in the mind of the general public an undue paranoia against aquaculture.

In the defense of U.S. aquaculture, the NAA cites the alphabet soup of federal agencies that govern the various aspects of aquaculture, such as the USDA, EPA, NOAA, FDA and USFWS. In addition, there is a long list of stringent state and local regulations which are applicable to aquaculture operations. All of this oversight and regulations should make Americans feel more secure with domestic aquaculture, more confident that it is safe and sustainable, despite fear mongering by some of the media.

All of these legal restrictions, regulations and agencies apparently have succeeded to a large extent. According to the Seafood Watch, much of the U.S. farmed seafood is considered sustainable. For example, U.S farmed channel catfish, oysters, mussels, shrimp, Coho salmon (farmed in tank systems) and others are listed as Best Choices. The same cannot be said for many instances of foreign aquaculture. It seems that U.S. aquaculture is largely sustainable so consumers have more reasons to be confident and secure about domestic seafood.

As for the potential risks from mercury/PCBs in seafood, I have already written about that issue, that the health benefits from seafood consumption far outweigh any minimal risks. It is essentially a non-issue. Again, consumers have little reason to worry.

As I said before, you should give your support to domestic seafood, and that includes both wild and farmed seafood. It will be good for you, good for your community and good for our country.

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