International Boston Seafood Show: Food of Interest

"Scallops are expensive, so they should be treated with some class. But then, I suppose that every creature that gives his life for our table should be treated with class."
--Jeff Smith

One of my anticipated pleasures of attending the International Boston Seafood Show is the opportunity to gorge myself on a smorgasbord of seafood, to partake of new products and old, of shellfish to sushi, fried  shrimp to smoked salmon. Exhibitors desire to entice potential purchasers to their booth so many offer samples of their foods. In addition, these exhibitors hope to ignite some positive press for their products. Most of them have been very open to me, sharing information, and I enjoy highlighting those foods which most enticed my palate.

I taste many different items at the show, enjoying the majority of them, but I only choose to mention a small number, those which especially appealed to me. I want to share with my readers the best of the best, some of the most compelling products at the show. With over 1800 exhibitors, I know I did not sample seafood from each and every booth, so I may have missed some exceptional foods. If you attended the Seafood Show, and have your own favorite samples, feel free to tell me about them in the comments.

There is a ton of salmon available for sampling at the show. Some of my favorites came from Spence & Co., Ltd., which primarily is a purveyor of smoked salmon though they currently sell over 80 products. The company was founded by a Alan Spence, a master smoker from Scotland. They produce smoked salmon in a traditional Scottish method, which gives it a more restrained smoky taste. Some of their more unique items, which I did not taste, include smoked salmon from New Zealand, which uses Manuka wood, and salmon from recipes by famed chef Charlie Trotter, such as the Darjeeling Tea & Ginger Cured Salmon.

Last month, the Japanese government placed unagi, the Japanese eel, on the Environment Ministry's Red List, listing it as Endangered. Catches have been at record lows, declining to about 5% of what were caught in the 1960s. Japan is the primary consumer of these eels, eating about 70% of the production.  percent of all eel produced worldwide. The Red List is more an advisory and does not create any legal regulation, so hopefully the government will take notice and actually do something to protect the unagi. To protect the unagi, it would be beneficial to find other sustainable fish which might closely replicate the taste of unagi.

Triad Fisheries, in Alaska, has created one such option, and I was impressed with the result. Their Alaska Sablefish Unagi Style recently won two Symphony of Seafood awards, including #1 2013 Foodservice & People's Choice Seattle. This product is wild Alaskan sablefish, with an unagi marinade, which is precooked and ready to heat and serve. First, I found this fish to be absolutely delicious. It seemed to share some of the texture of the unagi, which is important, and a bit of the taste. It may not be a perfect replication of unagi, but because it is so tasty, and has a similar texture, I think this would be a very good replacement.

Another Alaskan treat was the Aqua Cuisine Seafood Lit'l Sammies Smoked Salmon Cocktail Franks, which also won a Symphony of Seafood award for #1 2013 Smoked. These are made from 100% wild Alaskan Salmon and are all natural, with no artificial ingredients. They are low in fat, high in protein, and free of nitrite and nitrates. They had a nice texture, just a bit looser than a regular hot dog, and you definitely tasted the salmon and mild smokiness. They would make a great alternative for a cocktail party or tail gate party.

Almost hidden in the rear of the show, amidst a number of Korean booths, I stumbled upon HaeMatt Co., Ltd. which produces Korean Myeong-Ran, a roasted laver. You probably are more familiar with laver by its Japanese name, nori, which is often used to wrap sushi. In Korea, roasted lavery is associated with fertility and is often served at weddings. It may also be eaten as an appetizer or snack. This seasoned laver is made from laver, brown rice, pollock roe seasoning, perilla oil and sesame oil. Some chili pepper powder may have been added as well. I enjoyed the seasoned laver, which I found crunchy with a nice depth of seasoning though I did not find it spicy. I could see though how it might be an addictive snack. And you could always add your own hot spices.

Black Diamond Caviar, produced by Warbucks International Seafood, is produced in Louisiana and they make three different types. In general, the caviar costs about $50 for a 3.75 ounce jar. I believe that the caviar I tasted was from the bowfin, known locally as the choupique. It is a freshwater fish, more ancient than sturgeons, from Louisiana and their roe is naturally black. I liked the taste of this caviar, which had a mild brininess, no fishy aftertaste and has a silky smooth texture. A good, sustainable choice.

I love a good mussel, and the type of broth they are prepared in matters a lot. Canadian Cove produces Prince Edward Island Mussels, which are rope grown and sustainable. The mussels are good for your health too as they are low calorie, a good source of lean protein, and have plenty of Omega-3s, iron and Vitamin B12. The mussels were large and plump, cooked in a Sweet Thai broth, and really satisfied me. Fortunately, they also had slices of bread for dunking into the flavorful broth.

The British Columbia Pavilion offered samples of a number of different types of sustainable seafood. In British Colombia, they produce over 100 species of seafood, exporting about 80% and the U.S. receives about 57% of those exports. Salmon accounts for about 40% of all B.C. production. British Colombia is big on food safety, traceability and sustainability.

At the show, their chef was Nathan Fong, a food stylist, journalist, and TV personality, who was born in Vancouver. Next to Nathan, you may recognize Jacqueline Church, the Leather District Gourmet, who assisted Nathan at the show. Nathan spent lots of time preparing various dishes, showcasing the delicious seafood of British Columbia. I stopped by their booth several times to see what the next recipe might be. A luscious sablefish, caviar & scrambled eggs, uni, fried rockfish, and more. Overall, this ended up as the tastiest booth at the entire show, with an excellent variety of delicious seafood, prepared very well.

Salmon on a stick!

One of the treasures from the British Columbia booth was the Northern Divine Caviar. This is the first certified organic caviar in North America, from thirteen year old White Sturgeons. The company began producing caviar in 2011 but became a commercial entity in 2012. The sturgeon was raised in tanks on land and they produce only a few hundred kilos each year. They have been certified by Canadian Organic Aquaculture as well as Global Trust. Currently, they are sold mostly in Canada, though you can find it in the U.S. and they are seeking more distributors. It is pricey, at about $88 for 30 grams, but then caviar has never been an inexpensive luxury. The taste is exquisite, smooth, briny and buttery without any fishy aftertaste. One of the better caviars I have tasted in the last few years. And paired with even scrambled eggs, they make a great dish. Splurge and check out this caviar.

“The sea hath fish for every man.”
--William Camden

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Glenmorangie Distillery: The Gateway Scotch

“There is no such thing as a bad whisky. Some whiskies just happen to be better than others.”
--William Faulkner

It is easy to find wine dinners but spirit-paired dinners are still a rarity, despite the fact that high quality, artisan spirits are now a hot category. Whiskey is seeing a resurgence, partially due to the emergence of flavored whiskey but also because the overall quality of whiskey seems to be improving as well. The relatively new practice of double maturation, finishing the aging of whiskey in a second type of barrel (often a wine barrel), has also helped increase its popularity. This double maturation can add some intriguing and appealing flavors to the whiskey.

Whiskey should be more than a spirit simply for an apertif or an after-dinner drink. Whiskey can pair well with food and more chefs need to avail themselves of such an opportunity. One local chef picked up that gauntlet, creating a menu paired with five scotches, and he succeeded in designing a well crafted menu that paired very well with the various scotches.

I recently attended, as a media guest, a Glenmorangie Scotch dinner at Avila Modern Mediterranean restaurant in Boston. George Kalliavas, John Carey and Danielle Keating of Martignetti Companies, the Moet Hennessey division, presided over the dinner and Eamon Keating, from the Boston Wine Exchange was also present, taking orders for the scotch. It was a fun and educational dinner, showcasing the versatility and quality of the Glenmorangie scotch portfolio.

The Glenmorangie Distillery is located north of Inverness, about half a mile from Tain, in the Highlands of Scotland and it is the smallest distillery in the Highlands. It was founded in 1843 by a farmer, William Matheson, who bought a couple of ex-gin stills in England to start producing scotch. These stills were over 16 feet tall, the tallest in Scotland, and the distillery now possess 24 stills. The height provides a higher distillate, which ends up being lighter and smoother than some smaller stills. The distillery is now owned by Moet Hennessey.

Glenmorangie possesses their own water source, the Tarlogie Springs, including approximately 100 acres around it, to ensure the purity and quality of their water. Their barley is sourced only from Scotland. It is important to realize that the oak barrel is one of the most significant aspects of whiskey production, providing 60%-70% of the flavor and all of the color. Glenmorangie contracts with loggers in the Ozark Mountains for American white oak and then have barrels constructed from the finest wood. They then lend the barrels to two American bourbon and whiskey distilleries for aging. After the barrels are used, they are then disassembled and sent to Scotland, to be reassembled and used to age Glenmorangie. They only use their barrels twice, as opposed to some other distilleries which may use them five or six times.

The Master Distiller at Glenmorangie is Dr. Bill Lumsden, a pioneer in the use of double maturation and the distillery is also well known for its experimentation. Their tagline is "unnecessarily well made," and it is my experience that they produce high quality scotch, with a diverse flavor profile. George stated that "Glenmorangie is a gateway drug to single malt scotch."  It is a lighter, ethereal, and layered scotch which is more consumer friendly than some other scotches, especially the peaty versions. Yet is is far from simple, indicating the complexity and flavors possible within single malt scotch. In addition, it is very food friendly, making it an excellent choice for these types of dinners.

The signet found on every bottle of Glenmorangie has its roots in the ancient past. At the end of the 8th century, the native Picts carved a huge stone, the Cadboll Stone, which eventually became the oldest recorded archaelogical find in Scotland. Though the Stone was eventually relocated to the National Museum in Scotland, Glenmorangie commissioned a stone replica which was eventually placed on its original location. The signet on their bottles is one of the carvings on this Stone.

For the last 49 years, Glenmorangie has been the top selling selling single malt in Scotland. Currently, the top market for Glenmorangie is Japan, with Canada and the U.S. essentially tied for second and third place. Within the U.S., New Jersey is their top market, making me curious as to why they drink so much of their scotch. I would never have guessed that was the largest U.S. market. Metro New York and Los Angeles are the next two largest markets and Massachusetts ranks around fourth or fifth place, though it has also seen 40% growth in recent years. Information on their production statistics as well as the number of barrels was not available, and not something the distillery generally shares.

The greatest challenge facing Glenmorangie is  handling the competition, trying to expose more consumers to their products. Glenmorangie produces about ten different Scotches, including some limited editions. For example, one of their limited editions is the Artein, which is finished in Super Tuscan barrels from the renowned Sassacaia. It is illegal in the U.S. to place the name of Sassacaia on the bottle label, but in Europe they are able to do so.

Our evening began with a couple passed appetizers, including a shot glass of Creamy Corn Soup, with coriander & a brioche crouton, and Goat Cheese Croquettes. The corn soup was extremely creamy and flavorful, and I wished I had been given a large bowl. The croquettes were also excellent, with a light, crispy outer coating and silky goat cheese inside. This culinary start boded well for the rest of the dinner.

Our first pairing was the Nectar D'Or ($67), which spends 10 years in white oak and then another 2 years in old Sauternes barrels. Sauternes is a lauded sweet wine from France, and the grapes were affected by botrytis, the "noble rot." They are probably the only distillery to regularly produce such a unique scotch. With a light golden color, this scotch was smooth with intense flavors of honey, butterscotch, citrus and spice. There was a very restrained sweetness which enhanced this exquisite scotch and it paired well with the creaminess of the appetizers.

The first course of the evening was a Brown Butter Seared Sea Scallop with red beet juice risotto and frisee. The tender, well seared scallop was pleasing and the risotto combined a mild earthiness with a sweet tinge. The pairing for this dish was The Original ($35), their entry level scotch which is aged for ten years in used bourbon casks. Smooth, light and elegant, this make a great introduction to single malt, and its flavors, a combination of citrus, white stone fruits and vanilla notes, will appeal to many. This scotch would pair well with many different seafood dishes, or even a light chicken dish.

The next course was a clear winner, Chicken Liver Ravioli with dried cherry red onion compote, Chianti, and a Balsamic reduction. The thin pasta was cooked perfectly, just al dente enough, and the earthy taste of the chicken liver was well balanced by the sweetness of the compote and sauce. The third scotch was the  Quinta Ruban ($50), which is aged for ten years in used bourbon barrels and then two years in ruby port pipes. It possessed a deeper and complex flavor, with notes of citrus, honey, spice, leather, and a subtle red fruit note, as well as a lengthy, satisfying finish. It was able to handle the earthiness of this dish, balancing it with a mild sweetness. Another winning combination.

The Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks, with brussel sprouts and fingerling potatoes, was a good-sized piece of extremely tender meat, that easily fell apart with my fork alone. A rich and smooth taste, the beef satisfied my inner carnivore. The scotch for this dish was the 18 Year Old Glenmorangie ($95), which spends about 15 years in used bourbon barrels and then 30% spends an additional 3 years in Spanish Oloroso sherry casks, after which it is all blended back together. With a darker gold color, this was an amazing scotch, smooth, complex, and well layered with a compelling melange of dried fruits, honey, figs and caramel. It worked well with the beef, complementing its taste. A killer scotch!

Our dessert course was a Manjhari Chocolate Mousse Cake with hazelnut creme, a rich and creamy dish with touches of salt and citrus. Would you think of chocolate and scotch? Well it certainly can work, if you have the right scotch. Our final selection was the Signet ($200), a unique blend of older whiskey, most over 30 years old and the youngest being 20 years old. Master Distiller Lumsden has always loved coffee and that is reflected in this scotch. Though some of the details of its production are secret, it is known that they use a high roast chocolate barley, dried in a coffee roaster. With a very alluring aroma, this scotch does possess a compelling blend of coffee and chocolate flavors, with hints of orange, spice, and brininess. And it worked well with the chocolate.

Many of the attendees seemed to favor the Signet above the others of the night, though my personal favorite is probably the 18 Year Old. I certainly enjoyed the Signet very much, but it would be more of a scotch for specific occasions rather than a more every day choice. I liked all five of the scotches and found how food friendly they are, thanks to a compelling menu showcasing the versatility of the scotch. Let us see more spirit-paired dinners and I challenge local chefs to try to create some menus, with scotch, tequila, rum or any other spirit.

If you enjoy Scotch, or want to learn more about it, then a great option is to seek out the portfolio of Glenmorangie Scotch. And check out Avila, which put together an excellent menu of delicious cuisine.

 

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Wednesday Sips & Nibbles

I am here, because of the Thanksgiving holiday, with a special Wednesday edition of my usual Sips & Nibbles column, where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  Each holiday season from November 1st through New Year’s Eve, the Legal Sea Foods family of restaurants (Legal Sea Foods, Legal Test Kitchen, Legal C Bar and Legal Harborside) makes waves in assisting Children’s Hospital Boston. For the past sixteen years, a portion of the proceeds from every gift card sold has been contributed to innovative research that will benefit families with sick children. As an added incentive for gift givers this holiday season, Legal Sea Foods will grant a “Lobster Dinner Reward” voucher* (redeemable for a 1-1.25lb steamed lobster with a choice of two sides) for every $200 worth of gift cards purchased from the restaurants.

To date, Legal Sea Foods has raised over $1 million through its holiday gift card program making it the longest running annual cause marketing program to support Children’s Hospital Boston. The funds raised through the gift card program benefit Children’s Hospital scientist Dr. Leonard Zon’s revolutionary zebrafish research. Zon is a world-renowned stem cell researcher who pioneered the field of zebrafish genomic research. The hope is that discoveries in the fish, whose genetic structure is similar to humans, will translate into cures for millions of people worldwide with malignant, degenerative and genetic diseases such as leukemia, cancer, anemia and immune deficiency disorders.

According to Roger Berkowitz, President and CEO of Legal Sea Foods, “We take great pride in contributing to the cutting-edge research performed at Children’s Hospital Boston. Corporate philanthropy is part of Legal’s DNA and, as a company known for having family-friendly restaurants, it’s our privilege to support an institution that has been so meaningful to families in our community.”

All 19 Legal Sea Foods restaurants in Massachusetts are involved in the program. Gift cards are available for purchase in-store, online at www.legalseafoods.com, or by calling 1-800-EAT-FISH.
*“Lobster Dinner Reward” voucher valid from January 1 through March 31, 2012.

2)  To celebrate the winter season, Hotel Indigo’s BOKX 109 American Prime will host an evening of Cigars and Scotch on Friday, December 2, at 6:30pm.. At the event, guests will have the opportunity to sip on Glenfiddich Scotch while enjoying a fine cigar outside by the fire pits. The night will also include a meet-and-greet with the Glenfiddich Scotch Master himself. To accompany the fine whisky and cigars, Executive Chef Jarrod Moiles will prepare a selection of hors d'oeuvres for guests to sample. Enjoy a glass of one of the world’s most famous single malts and a stogie, with BOKX’s guest whisky aficionado.

COST: $50 per person (includes: scotch tasting, hors d'oeuvres, and cigars)

3)  When your child is sick, it’s hard to keep up a normal routine, let alone during the holiday season. This is something that executive chef/owner of Tryst, Paul Turano, knows all too well, having spent time with his son on the 6th Floor of Children’s Hospital Boston at Hematology, Oncology and Stem Cell Transplant Units over the past few years. This holiday season, Turano is giving back to the hospital that was there for his family by holding a holiday gift card drive for The Resource Room, a center that helps provide services to over 45 families whose children are being treated at the Children’s Hospital Boston Oncology and Hematology Center.

From December 1st, 2011 through December 20th, 2011 Tryst will match every $5, $10 or $20 gift card that diners bring in to the restaurant with a gift certificate of their own to Tryst. Whether the donated card can be used for a morning coffee at the local Dunkin Donuts, or is a generic American Express donation that can be used towards gas, or parking, each donation will help parents regain a sense of normalcy in their lives. Funded through donations from area businesses and families, the Resource Room floor 6 is staffed by a patient and family educator who can help patients and families learn about their medical treatment. The Resource Room also offers a space for patients and families to relax and connect with others going through a similar experience. With the extra help of these gift cards, Tryst will be putting Christmas back in the hands of these parents who will be able to utilize them for anything they wish. For a full list of accepted gift cards, please see below.

WHEN: Tryst’s holiday gift card fundraiser will be offered December 1, 2011 through December 20, 2011.
HOW: Bring a $5, $10 or $20 gift card to a store from the selected list below when you dine at Tryst and receive a Tryst gift certificate of equal value!
ADDITIONAL: Gift card donations are not limited to a $20 value, but Tryst will only match donations up to $20. Limited to one Tryst gift certificate per person per visit. Gift certificates cannot be combined. Cannot be combined with any other offer.
RSVP: Dine-in is not required. Walk-in’s welcome. Please call 781-641-2227 for more information.
ACCEPTED DONATIONS: American Express, Visa, Dining-In, Target, Walmart, Best Buy, Roche bros, CVS, Toys R’Us, Itunes, Amazon

4)  The 2012 Boston Wine Expo is expanding this year, as well as lowering the price of Grand Tasting tickets, and the celebration will extend from Monday, January 16 to Sunday, January 22, 2012.

Ticket prices for this year’s Grand Tasting are offered on a tiered scale. Saturday tickets begin at $85 and Sunday tickets begin at $70. On December 12th and again on January 13th, prices for each day increase $5 - $10. Two-day tasting tickets start at $130 and follow the same increase system at the same rate. Tickets can be purchased by visiting www.wineexpoboston.com or calling 877-946-3976. Area liquor merchants also sell tickets in advance of the Expo. A list of these locations can be found on the website. Note that they will be selling less tickets than year than last year.

Beginning January 16th, wineries will host exclusive Vintner Dinners at some of the city’s most enticing restaurants. Local favorites will provide the opportunity for guests to taste creative pairings of food and wine as they learn about each.

Consumers and trade can attend this year’s seminar series Friday thru Sunday and listen, as winemakers and industry experts speak to everything from wine and health, to wine and food pairings. Seminars include topics such as" “The One Hour Wine Expert” with Kevin Zraly, “O Ya, Sake & Sushi", "Ribera del Duero, a Region on the Rise," and "Argentina Beyond Malbec - Celebrating the Diversity of Argentina
."

At the Grand Tastings you can enjoy food and wine pairings from 40 restaurants daily and take in chef demonstrations by chefs including Christopher Coombs of Deuxave, Antonio Bettencourt of 62 on Wharf, Vittorio Ettore of Bistro 5 and Patricia Yeo of Om Restaurant & Lounge.

At the Grand Cru Wine Lounge on Saturday and Sunday, you can taste rare and expensive vintages (poured from $75 and up) as well as food from some of Boston’s restaurants. Grand Cru tickets are $175 and include admission to the Grand Tasting.

Saturday evening marks the Boston Wine Expo’s Signature Event, held in the Lighthouse at the Seaport Hotel. The evening will showcase premium wines, feature celebrity chef appearances and allow the trade and consumer guests to brush elbows with wine industry dignitaries.

New to the Boston Wine Expo this year will be a Mobile Application exclusively made for the event. The app will link wines directly to consumers to teach while they taste. Additionally, the app will list local retailers that carry the sampled wines. Attendees can save wine favorites to the app to access throughout the year.

5)  The Ashmont Grill , in Dorchester, is going to be busy in the next couple months with plenty of dining specials, including:

Holiday Shopper’s Lunch
Served on Fridays only, during December; runs through January 6.

Blackboard Specials, Early Winter
* Nantucket Bay Scallop Crudo
* Molasses-Braised Short Ribs, candied macadamia nuts
* Black Back Flounder a la Meuniere with almond spaetzle
* Pumpkin Ravioli with brown butter, sage and pecans
* Roasted Apple Bread Pudding with caramel sauce
* Valrhona Chocolate Pot de Crème, dulce de leche shortbread

Saturday-Sunday Brunch Standouts, $12 or less:
* Apple Pie Brioche French Toast, candied walnuts
* Turkey Burger with cranberry relish and watercress
* Chilequiles: Latin egg scramble with tomatillos, avocado, corn tortillas
* Trainwreck Omelette: our famous trainwreck fries (jack cheese, bacon, pickled jalapenos, scallions, sour cream) over an omelette

Progressive Dinner Sunday, December 11 @ 6 PM
In conjunction with the Grill's sister restaurant, Tavolo. Diners enjoy two courses @ one restaurant, head outdoors for an amuse bouche, then trot down the block to the next restaurant for another two courses. A sell-out in November, this is a fun-filled way to kick start the holidays with friends, and is likely to become a monthly affair. $60 p.p. includes 4 ½ courses plus wine.


Give Back @ The Grill
Donates 5% of the proceeds of its weekly Monday Night Wine Club to worthy local organizations that range from early education programs to the Boston Bicyclists Union. Beneficiaries for 2012 are now being sought. Call the restaurant for more details. Upcoming Wine Club themes:
* Puglia November 21
* Beaujolais November 28
* Argentina December 5
* Wine for the Holidays December 12
* Cabernet December 19
* Sparkling Wines December 26

Ashmont Grill Bake Shop Now Open – Order Holiday Pies
As always, we’re selling our top-selling pies to astound your family and holiday guests. Order ahead, then swing by to pick up: Pumpkin Cheesecake ($38) …Sweet Potato-Pecan ($20) …Nanny Sheila’s Ole’ Fashioned Carrot Cake ($38) …Apple Crumb ($18) …Sticky Toffee Pudding ($21)

New Year’s Eve
Ala carte specials like lobster, oysters, and beef tenderloin, followed by the neighborhood’s swingin'-est dance party, with DJ Mary Alice of Provincetown from 10 PM to 2 AM. No cover.

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Balvenie Scotch Whisky: The Importance of Barrels

What happens to old, oak barrels? When a barrel is no longer needed to age wine, bourbon or rum, where does it go? Should it just be discarded or is there some use that can be made of it? In fact, the Scotch industry is the recipient of a number of these used barrels, especially the bourbon ones, though some distilleries find use for other barrels as well.

Whisky, or whiskey (dependent on your country of origin), is a distilled alcohol made from a fermented grain mash, and that grain could be barley, wheat, corn or more. The term "whisky" originated from an ancient Gaelic term, "uisge beatha," which means "water of life."  In some respects, you could also almost consider whisky to be akin to "boiled or distilled beer," though I am sure whisky lovers might not like that characterization.

Whiskies are made all over the world but I am going to concentrate on Scotch whisky today. Obviously, Scotch whisky must be produced at a distillery in Scotland but there are other regulations, now described in the 2009 Scotch Whisky Regulations. For example, the whisky must be aged for at least three years in oak barrels and have no added substances, other than water and plain caramel coloring.

Scotch whisky is divided into five basic categories: Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Single Grain Scotch Whisky, Blended Malt Scotch Whisky, Blended Grain Scotch Whisky, and Blended Scotch Whisky. I will be concentrating on Single Malt, which is produced only from water and malted barley at a single distillery by batch distillation in pot stills. Scotland is also divided into five whisky production regions, including The Highlands, Lowland, Islay, Campbeltown and Speyside (which contains close to half of the whisky distilleries).

I recently attended a press event, a Balvenie Scotch Whisky tasting, led by Andrew Weir, the Balvenie ambassador to the U.S. Andrew is one of two ambassadors traveling the U.S. and showcasing some of the Balvenie products, including one which has not yet entered the market. It was a fascinating and educational event with several compelling Scotches.

Located in the region of Speyside, Balvenie Castle was constructed in the 12th century and its remains still stand, next to the Balvenie Distillery. Next to the castle was Balvenie Mains, a large farm, and eventually the Balvenie New House, an 18th century mansion, was added to the neighboring area. Around 1892, construction began to transform the mansion into the Balvenie distillery. The first distillation there was conducted on May 1, 1893. Currently, the distillery employs about 150 people and produces annually approximately 63 million liters of whisky. The 1000 acre farm next to distillery grows some of the barley used in the distillery. 

Balvenie is very different from many other Scotch distilleries. There are approximately 100 whisky distilleries in Scotland but only 5 are owned by independent families, and Balvenie is one of those five. It is also the only distillery that grows its own barley. In addition, Balvenie is one of only six distilleries that conducts floor maltings. A floor malting is where barley is soaked in water and then laid out atop a concrete floor and constantly turned, later to be dried in a kiln. Most other distilleries purchase their malted barley. Balvenie Scotch, despite the distillery's great size, is a hand crafted product, which is time intensive and even inefficient. But to change any of that could diminish its quality.  

One element that helps Balvenie create a superior product is the length of experience of some of their key personnel. Dennis McBain, their resident Coppersmith, started at Balvenie in 1958, when he was only 15 years old, lying about his age. He is the only resident coppersmith in Scotland, and has over 50 years of experience. David Stewart, their resident Malt Master, started at Balvenie in 1962, and he is currently the longest serving Malt Master in the business, and will celebrate his fifty year anniversary next year. With their vast experience and knowledge, they assist in the creation of a superior whisky.

In producing whisky, the oak barrel is one of the most important aspects, providing 60%-70% of the flavor and all of the color. They never use new barrels, only ones that were once used for something else, as they desire slow maturation. Most of the time, they use old bourbon barrels and in Scotland, there are about 20 million bourbon barrels, compared to their population of about 5 million people. Before bourbon barrels had been available, they used whatever was around. A barrel usually yields about 350 bottles of whisky. Balvenie employs eight coopers to maintain their barrels, and use not only bourbon barrels, but others as well, including rum, sherry and port barrels.

Andrew mentioned the "magic in the wood," which would seem to apply to not only Scotch but wine as well. No one knows completely for sure what will happen when scotch or wine is placed into an oak barrel. Barrels may seem similar but the scotch or wine inside will develop differently, barrel to barrel, over time. That was made clear to me when I toured the sherry bodegas of Spain. And for scotch, the type of barrel used will definitely affect its aroma and taste.

Andrew also stated that there are more flavors components in a glass of scotch than wine. In drinking whisky, he told us to ignore any so-called rules and drink it anyway we chose. He suggested that a wine glass may be better than a rocks glass for appreciating the aroma of the whisky. In addition, he suggested that we sip whiskey like hot tea, to best appreciate the complexity and taste of a single malt. As alcohol is a barrier to flavor, it can be beneficial to add a little water to reduce the alcohol and thus increase the flavor.

One of his final bits of advice concerned visiting a whisky warehouse. If you do visit one, you might be offered the opportunity to taste whisky from any barrel you choose. Though many people might seek out the oldest whisky or their birth year, there is a way to potentially discern the best whisky in the warehouse. Tap the casks and seek the emptiest one, as that is where the workers have been sipping, and it is they who know where the best whisky is located.

We tasted five Balvenie scotches, each with significant differences, yet all were pleasing and delicious, albeit in different ways. Prices generally range from about $40-$250, typical for high-end, single malt Scotches.

We began with the 12 Year Old Doublewood, which spent 12 years in a bourbon barrel and then an additional 9 months in a sherry cask, a barrel that once held a dry Oloroso. In 1982, they first started using sherry barrels as a finisher, wanting the additional spice and richness they would provide. The Doublewood was smooth and rich, with delicious flavors of vanilla, honey, caramel and spice. There is something about this Scotch which did remind me of a fine, aged sherry so it was especially appealing to me. This is the least expensive of their Scotches, and one I believe offers a good value.

Their 14 Year Old Caribbean Cask was created because the public demanded it. Previously, Balvenie produced a limited edition Scotch that was finished in a rum cask and consumers loved it, but when it was no longer available, there was a great clamor for its return. So, Balvenie chose to make it a regular product. This Scotch is finished for about four months in old rum barrels and the resulting Scotch tends to be a bit sweeter, with tropical fruit flavors, and even a little banana. It certainly brings to mind the Caribbean, and not what I would normally think of for Scotch.  It was very different from the Doublewood but each is appealing in their own unique way. I prefer the Doublewood but that it merely a matter of personal taste.

The 15 Year Old Single Barrel is aged only in a bourbon barrel and presented a very compelling aroma and taste. It was silky smooth, with a complex melange of vanilla, butterscotch, caramel, honey, and even some appealing earthiness. It possessed a lengthy and very satisfying finish, a mellowness that would warm you on a chilly winter evening. This is a Scotch to slowly sip and savor with friends, to enjoy each amazing taste. Highly recommended.

Back to the varied finish barrels, the 21 Year Old Portwood is finished for four months in a Tawny Port cask. This is a much rarer Scotch, as only about 1% of their production survives for 21 years. This Scotch is rich and complex, with an intriguing fruitiness combined with notes of chocolate and a very lengthy finish. Though I enjoyed this Scotch, my personal preference would be for the Single Barrel.

The final Scotch we tasted has not yet been released, though will be available very soon. It is the Tun 1401, Batch 3, a blend of 10 excellent vintages from 1967-1989. Only 1800 bottles have been produced and it will sell for $250 per bottle. This Scotch has a darker color than the others and was a potent and complex whisky. It was rich, full bodied and powerful, with an intriguing and complex blend of flavors, including vanilla, honey, citrus, spice, and more. A superb Scotch, albeit pricey, but something for a true connoisseur.

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