Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  51 Lincoln Owner Jeff Fournier and Chef de Cuisine Nate Gibson present Raw August, a month-long celebration of internationally influenced raw cuisine, featuring vegetables from 51 Lincoln’s own rooftop garden and proteins in their purest form.

During the month of August, Jeff Fournier and Nate Gibson will prepare dishes that are globally influenced, yet locally sourced. These carefully prepared dishes will not only delight your palate, but also provide you with a love of proteins in their natural state. Served with complimentary wine pairings, these dishes provide the perfect finishing touch to summer. Below are sample menu items for Raw August:

Wagu Steak Tartare with Red Onion, Capers, Truffle Dijon Dressing
Onset Oysters on the Halfshell, Pickled Ramp Mignonette, Peach Gastrique, Fresno Chili, Chervil
Colorado Lamb Kibbe, White Onion, Parsley, Kalamata Olive Vinaigrette, Naan Bread
Scallop and Mango Poke, Poi and Taro Root Chips, Radish Slaw
Cold Smoked Sail Island Salmon Tartare, House Baked Fennel Bread, Soft Boiled Farm Egg, Fennel Fronds, Pickled Mustard Seed Vinaigrette
Duo of Tartares: Yellow Fin Tuna & Fresh Blueberries, Red Onion, Lemon, Cilantro, Blueberry Aioli
Rhode Island Fluke Ceviche, Jalapeño, Lime, Cilantro, Pineapple, Avocado Espuma
Faroe Island Salmon Carpaccio, Crispy Green Bean Frites, Brandy Cream sauce

When: August 1-31 (Tuesdays through Saturdays, starting at 5:00pm)

2) From Sunday, September 8 to Sunday, September 15, restaurants and wine shops located north of Boston will join together to hold the third annual North of Boston Wine Week (NOBOWW). Sponsored by Merrimack Valley Magazine, in conjunction with NECN’s “TV Diner,” M.S. Walker, Horizon Beverage Company and Cape Ann Foodie Tours, North of Boston Wine Week will celebrate the towns north of Boston as a premier destination for fine wine and food. Throughout the week, the area’s finest businesses will highlight their wine selections with various events and great deals including everything from specially crafted wine tastings, wine dinners, wine flights, pairings, special events and more. For the complete calendar listing of events visit www.NorthOfBostonWineWeek.com.

North of Boston Wine Week will kick-off with a complimentary inaugural event at the Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, on Saturday, September 7, from 1pm-5pm, during an exclusive, free wine tasting event featuring cuisine from several participating venue’s chefs.

Buy local, drink global and join North of Boston as a vibrant food and wine community and support local businesses including: 50 Warren Restaurant, 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar, Adriatic Restaurant and Bar, Alchemy Bistro, Andiamo Restaurant + Bar, Angelina’s Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria, Blue Stove at Nordstrom, Burton’s Grill, Busa Wine & Spirits, Café Escadrille, Centro, China Blossom, Emerson By The Sea, Evviva Cucina, The Grapevine, Hanover Street Chophouse, Joseph's Trattoria, Laurie's 9:09 Gastro-Diner, Luna Rossa Ristorante, Michael's Harborside, Nathanial's at the Hawthorne Hotel, On The Bone, Oregano Pizzeria, Orzo Trattoria, Phat Cat Bistro, Ristorante Olivio, Salvatore's Restaurants, Smolak Farms, Stonehedge Inn & Spa, Ten Center Street, Tryst Restaurant, Tuscan Kitchen, Tuscan Market, Waterside Grille, and the Wine ConneXtion.

3) Executive Chef/Owner Paul Turano of Tryst Restaurant in Arlington, MA (and the soon to open “Cook” restaurant in Newton), has been nominated by Governor Deval Patrick to represent the state of Massachusetts at the Great American Seafood Cook-Off in New Orleans, Louisiana on August 3. The Great American Seafood Cook-Off is one of the nation’s most prestigious seafood competitions showcasing domestic, sustainable seafood featuring acclaimed chefs from across the country. Chefs are asked to create unique dishes and flavor combinations with domestic seafood that is native to their home states and representative of their region. Hosted in New Orleans, Louisiana, one of the most renowned cities for all things gourmet, the event is sponsored by the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and presented by the Louisiana Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board.

“It’s such an honor to represent Massachusetts in this competition,” said Chef Paul Turano. This will be the first time Massachusetts is represented at the Great American Seafood Cook-Off. The Great American Seafood Cook-Off takes place at the Morial Convention Center in New Orleans, in Hall J, alongside the Louisiana Restaurant Association Food Service Expo on August 3.

4) On Sunday, July 28, at 6pm, Chef Paul Turano of Tryst Restaurant in Arlington is collaborating with New England’s very own root beer company, Tower Root Beer, for the third annual Root Beer Dinner, celebrating Tower’s 99-year-old classic soda recipe.

Founded in Somerville, MA, in 1914, Tower Root Beer evolved from a tonic company into a specialized root beer company. During the Prohibition of the 1920’s when root beer became the substitute for beer that was no longer available, their pharmacist- perfected recipe contributed to Tower’s early success and allowed them to withstand the stock market crash of 1929, even when the bank that held their working capital could not. Spanning New England, Tower Root Beer grew into a well-known business before an unsuccessful merger and competition from the two major soda conglomerates forced them off the market. For the past 30 years, Tower’s recipe has sat under lock and key, before a third generation of the family decided to reestablish the family business after finding their grandfather's handwritten recipe.

Tryst Restaurant is celebrating the return of the timeless drink with a classic three course, $34 prix fixe dinner ($14 for optional cocktail pairing) by Chef Paul Turano featuring root beer inspired dishes and innovative cocktails inspired by the sweet treat. Reservations are required and can be made by calling Tryst at 781-641-2227.

And here is a special Recipe from Chef Turano for Root Beer Braised Short Ribs

Ingredients:
3 lbs Boneless Beef Short Ribs (about 1 1/2" thick with good marbling)
1 ea yellow onion, rough chopped
1 ea carrot, rough chopped
2 ea celery stalks, rough chopped
3 ea garlic cloves, rough chopped
3 Tbls tomato paste
4 ea fresh thyme sprigs
1 ea bay leaf
½ bottle dark beer
½ bottle Tower Root Beer
3 cups chicken stock
3 Tbls balsamic vinegar
flour, as needed
salt and pepper
canola oil, as needed

Directions:
Season short ribs with salt and pepper, dredge in the flour, bang to remove excess flour. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat, add a little canola oil and cook the ribs in batches (Do Not Overcrowd the Pan!) Brown the ribs on all sides, taking care not to burn the flour. Remove ribs and place in an oven proof casserole about six inches deep. Sear remaining ribs.

Wipe out excess oil from the sauté pan. Add the onion, carrot and celery, season with salt and pepper and continue to cook until light brown. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. Add the tomato paste and cook an additional 3-5 minutes, stirring often. Add the beer, root beer and bring to a boil for two minutes. Pour into the casserole over the ribs. Add the aromatics and chicken stock. Cover the casserole with lid or aluminum foil. Place in 300˚ oven. Half way through cooking, flip the ribs in the liquid to ensure even cooking. Cook approximately two and a half hours, until the short ribs are tender, but not falling apart.

Remove the meat from the casserole, strain the liquid through a sieve, skim excess fat and return to casserole or a stove top safe pan. Reduce the liquid until the desired consistency. Return ribs to the liquid to slowly reheat. Serves 4-6 people.

5) On July 31-August 25, Rosa Mexicano will launch their annual Ice Cream Festival, featuring a dedicated menu of sweet and salty ice cream flavors, Paleta popsicles, dessert guacamole, ice cream-stuffed churros and more.

Part of their ongoing Flavors of Mexico series, the beloved festival will introduce specials including but not limited to:
· Guacamole de Postre: a decadent sundae of sweet avocado ice cream "guacamole," prepared tableside with fresh raspberries, white chocolate shavings & coconut crunch; served with piloncillo chocolate sauce and cinnamon sugar Buñuelos
· "Paleta" Popsicles: in flavors such as Guava, Chile & Huckleberry; and Papaya & Passionfruit
· Ice Cream Stuffed Churros: a twist on the traditional "deep fried ice cream," three churro fritters filled with various ice cream flavors such as malted coffee and plantain & peanut butter; served with chocolate fudge ganache
· Ice Cream Cones: highlights include Plantain & Peanut Butter; Strawberry Rose; Sweet Cream, Mexican Chocolate & Cajeta Swirl; and Mexican Sour Gherkin & Jalapeño Sorbet

6) Bringing a taste of the North End to the Greenway, Carla and Christine Pallotta have now opened the doors to the relocated NEBO at 520 Atlantic Avenue. The new 180-seat restaurant, with a 65-seat patio on the edge of the Greenway with 180-degree views of the Financial District, is now open for dinner service, and will add lunch in the next few weeks, followed by a takeout program specializing in Italian sandwiches, baked goods, and pastries.

“After eight years at the original NEBO, our hearts – and our parking spaces – will always be in the North End,” say sisters, chefs, and co-owners Carla and Christine Pallotta. “Though we’re not technically located in the neighborhood any more, we’re still close enough to do our morning shopping. Instead of ‘North End Boston,’ NEBO now means ‘North End brought over’ to the Greenway.”

In addition to the pizzas, handmade pastas, and antipasti for which NEBO is famous for, the new NEBO menu will offer even more traditional Italian dishes that the original, smaller NEBO kitchen wasn’t equipped to execute. These new dishes include about 10 new pizzas and summer entrees that focus on seafood and vegetables such as Branzino, Squid Ink Pasta with Salt Cod Confit, and Cioppino with Lobster, Shrimp, Calamari, Mussels and Smelts in a Spicy Tomato Brodo with Crostini.

NEBO has floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides of the building, a vaulted brick ceiling, and an open layout that includes: a 60-person bar area with two communal tables, an Italian marble bar, and 12-seat drink rail; a 120-person dining room with banquettes, coffee-stained rift oak tables, and chocolate brown Herman Miller bucket chairs interspersed with refinished Thonet chairs from the old NEBO; and a semi-private dining room with an Italian alabaster chandelier. The state-of-the-art open kitchen with adjoining gelato and sandwich bar is the “dream kitchen” Christine imagined eight years ago when she crafted the business plan for NEBO’s original North End location. During the warmer months, NEBO’s outdoor patio on the edge of the Greenway includes custom furniture designed to match the original cast iron work of Atlantic Wharf, nutmeg umbrellas, and Winston Flowers arrangements.

NEBO is now open for dinner Monday through Saturday beginning at 5:00 PM. Lunch service begins late July; takeout by September. NEBO is closed on Sundays.

I am a huge fan of NEBO so I am very excited to check out their new location, and I think it is great that they will soon be open for lunch too. This is definitely a restaurant I strongly encourage my readers to check out.

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Pazzo Gelato Cafe: Willy Wonka & Duality

"Try some more. The strawberries taste like strawberries, and the snozzberries taste like snozzberries."
--Willy Wonka

As a child, I loved the movie Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory and it still occupies a special place in my heart. Such a twisted and fun movie, and Gene Wilder played such a great role. The remake was a travesty. Last week I visited a new gelato shop which was inspired by Willy Wonka, and found an abundance of vibrant and natural flavors.

The Pazzo Gelato Cafe recently opened in North Andover and its website is under construction though their Facebook page has some details about the shop. It is open every day, from 10am-10pm, except Sundays when it opens at 12pm. The cafe can be easily located on Route 114, in the Eaglewood Shops. Besides its Wonka inspiration, it is also an exemplar of duality, a showcase of opposing characteristics.

Pazzo, an Italian word which means "crazy," is owned by Jim Demotses, a former lawyer who graduated from Suffolk Law School, the same law school where I graduated. Jim has also worked in restaurants his whole life and eventually realized that food and cooking were his true passion. I can relate to his career change, leaving the legal profession. Jim received his primary training at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts and immersed himself more deeply into gelato at the Gelato & Pastry Institute of America as well as the Carpigiani Frozen Dessert University in North Carolina.

"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
--Willy Wonka

Jim was inspired by Willy Wonka, and one of the cafe walls is covered by a colorful mural which is meant to reflect, in part, the Lickable Wallpaper from the Wonka movie. Though I don't advise licking the murals. The cafe, small and welcoming, has 7 tables, made from reclaimed wood, where you can sit and eat. Jim's philosophy "...centers on providing an authentic Italian gelateria experience by serving freshly-made products sourced from local dairy producers, using imported Italian flavorings and high-quality fresh fruits." Based on my visit, he seems to be living up to this philosophy.

There is another colorful mural on one of the other walls, it is is essentially the family mural, presenting images of Jim's family. You can see his wife, Karen, his daughter, Helen, and his son, Andrew. The mural also depicts the village in Campagna, Italy, where Karen's grandfather was born. The murals on both walls were designed by Kate Delaney, a local artist, and there is even a QR code within the mural which leads to a video of Kate designing the mural.

One of their glass cases holds numerous baked goods, most which are made in house except for the tea breads. The cookies and muffins are made fresh in the cafe. You can stop by for breakfast, to grab a treat with some coffee or tea.

"Bubbles, bubbles everywhere, but not a drop to drink - yet."
--Willy Wonka

Besides food, they also sell a variety of drinks, including coffee (from espresso to cappucino), tea and hot chocolate. And the drinks come either hot or cold. They make fresh brewed, unsweetened iced tea which pleased me to see. You can even get frozen drinks, such as an Espresso Frappino or Fruit Smoothie.

The first aspect of duality is that the Cafe produces both sweet and savory treats. Though gelato is their primary focus, they also prepare a line of Paninis. You'll find eight paninis on the menu, priced from $7.95-$8.95, and includes types such as Caprese and Chicken Milanese, Vegetarian and Reubino. Each panini is served with a small bag of Utz potato chips.

When I arrived at Pazzo, I ordered the Porchetta panini, which consists of thinly sliced, slow roasted Italian herb & spice rubbed pork topped by pickles, tomatoes, Swiss cheese, and chipotle mayo (though I opted for it without the mayo). It was quite tasty, with tender pork and a nice grilled bread, and would make for a good lunch at any time.

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams."
--Willy Wonka

The primary star of the shop is gelato and they usually carry 20+ flavors, divided into two glass cases. The smaller case contains all of the gelatos with nuts, to protect people who possess nut allergies. The sorbets, which are dairy free, are also differentiated by scoops with blue handles. They even sell gluten free gelato.

This is where we find another aspect of duality, local vs imported. Jim is strong in his support of the use of local ingredients but he finds value in imported ingredients as well, especially those from Italy. Locally, Jim uses the following vendors: Shaw Dairy Farm of Dracut for dairy products, CASA Foods of Middleton for imported Italian meats and cheeses, Iggy’s Breads of the World of Cambridge for freshly-baked pastries and bagels, and Jessica’s Brick Oven of North Andover for breads and rolls. He may use other local vendors in the future as well.

Jim also plans on using locally grown fruits, from farms and farmer's markets, when they are in season, and gelatos using those fruits will be differentiated as "native" gelatos. All of their sorbets are made from real fruit, and they do not use any artificial flavorings or colorings. When fruits are not in season, they rely on individually quick frozen fruit, which is ripe fruit, cut into pieces, and flash frozen to preserve its freshness and taste.

All of their nut flavors are imported from Italy, such as their Sicilian pistachio. They also obtain their  biscotti flavoring, rum raisin, and cheesecake from Italy. Their pure vanilla extract is obtained from France and it is alcohol-free, which thus won't interfere with the freezing of the gelato.

"And almost everything you'll see is eatable, edible. I mean, you can eat almost everything."
--Willy Wonka

Gelato comes in Small ($3.45), Medium ($4.15) or Large ($4.95) and you can get a fresh-made Waffle cone for an extra $1. While I was in the store, they were making the waffle cones and such an appealing aroma pervaded the shop. If you need a larger portion of gelato, you can order it by the Pint, Snack Pack or Party Pack (which holds 2+ pounds of gelato for $19.95). Or opt instead for a Gelato Sundae ($5.99) or Brownie Sundae ($7.25). If you order a Gelato Sandwich ($4.95), they will put your chosen flavor between any of their home-made cookies. Plenty of gelato options.

They even sell Gelato Frappes (medium $5.95, large $6.95), which can be topped by home-made whipped cream. I tried one with Banana Stracciatella gelato and it was creamy, thick and flavorful, and who wouldn't enjoy real whipped cream?

Jim allowed me to sample any of the flavors that I desired and I sampled nearly all of them, including flavors such as Chocolate Kahlua Brownie, Almond Coconut, Toasted Almond, Chocolate Sorbet, Stracciatella, Cheesecake with Amarena Cherries, Banana Stracciatella, Lemon Sorbet, Watermelon Sorbet, Pineapple & Orange Sorbet, Caramel and Pistachio. For their Pistachio, they use 100% Sicilian pistachios, and no other filler nuts like some other places do. Pistachios are expensive, which is why some use fillers. This gelato had such a prominent pistachio flavor, tasting exactly like a handful of nuts. It tasted fresh and natural, with a delightful creaminess.

In fact, nearly every flavor I tasted possessed a bright, fresh and natural taste. The fruit sorbets tasted like fresh fruit, and not some artificial flavorings. I very much enjoyed the Watermelon Sorbet and the Lemon Sorbet was quite refreshing. The Caramel, Chocolate, Banana and Vanilla flavors were all bright and delicious too. The Stracciatella presented a smoother, rich and less crunchy chocolate than you find in the usual Chocolate Chip. Even though I am not a huge fan of cheesecake, I enjoyed their Cheesecake with Amarena Cherries.

The only disappointment for me was the Almond Coconut which I felt didn't deliver as prominent a coconut flavor as the other flavors did. All of the other flavors were compelling, and would appeal to any gelato or ice cream lover. This is damn good gelato.

"Invention, my dear friends, is 93% perspiration, 6% electricity, 4% evaporation, and 2% butterscotch ripple."
--Willy Wonka

Jim took me into the kitchen and showed me how they make gelato. They begin with either one of two bases, one white (pictured above) and the other chocolate. The white is mostly whole milk, a little cream, vanilla, and stabilizers. I got to taste both bases and they too delivered strong, rich flavors of vanilla and chocolate. The process allows much creativity, and Jim is always experimenting with different gelato flavors. Above, Jim is preparing to make a Tiramisu ice cream. This raises another aspect of duality, as much of the gelato work is artisan, done by hand, yet the process also include a high-tech component.

Once the gelato mixture has been completed, it is poured into the batch freezer. Jim purchased a Carpigiani batch freezer, from Italy (costing around $30K), a highly advanced machine which ensures a perfect gelato. It only takes about 5-6 minutes to make a batch of gelato, though a bit longer in the morning until the machine has had a chance to get cold enough. With this machine, Jim can make enough gelato during the day to fill his two cases. Most of the gelato flavors are made once a day, and sometimes twice a day. Occasionally, a gelato is left in the case for two days but no longer than that. The nut gelatos are always made at the end of the day so as to not contaminate the other nut-free gelatos. At the end of the day, the machine is then thoroughly cleaned for the next day.

Once the gelato comes out of the batch freezer, it will be placed into a blast chiller, at about -40 degress Celsius, for a short time to prevent the gelato from developing ice crystals.

Pazzo's commitment to the support of the local community takes shape in other ways besides their purchase of local products. They hire co-op students from Greater Lawrence Regional Vocational Technical School to work at the shop. They reduce their carbon footprint by implementing green practices, including working with Black Earth Haulers, a food composting company based in Gloucester, which transports food waste to Brick End Farm in Hamilton to be turned into usable compost for local farms. On the counter, you will even find "community jars" for tips, and the employees donate those tips to different local charities each month.

Though new, Jim still looks to the future, and how he can grow and make Pazzo even better. He will continue to develop and create new gelato flavors. He would like to work with local restaurants and develop special flavors just for them. I think the future looks very bright for Pazzo Gelato Cafe as they are producing a high quality and delicious product. Their gelato flavors will appeal to even the most discerning palate, and they satisfy with their prominent, bright and natural tastes. Kudos to Jim and I wish him the best of luck in his endeavors.

"There is no life I know to compare with pure imagination. Living there, you'll be free if you truly wish to be."
--Willy Wonka

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2012: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue my collection of lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2012. Yesterday, I provided a list of my Favorite Restaurants of 2012 and now I want to address my favorites for other Food-Related Items, from markets to books, from cheese to candy. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Food Magazine: For the second year in a row, Lucky Peach easily prevails as my favorite. This quarterly magazine is eclectic and irreverent, with fascinating articles, essays, recipes, and more. I eagerly devour each issue when it is released and its quality has remained consistent. It entertain and educates, as well as providing much to ponder. Their recent Chinatown themed issue was very cool. If you love food and are not reading Lucky Peach, then shame on you.

Favorite Ethnic Cookbook: If you enjoy Chinese cuisine, then you should read Feeding The Dragon by Mary Kate Tate and Nate Tate. The book is a combination travelogue and cookbook, broken down into regions of China. Each regional section begins with interesting essays about that area and then provides about 10-15 recipes, spanning the range from appetizers to desserts, and including several beverages too. The book is a fascinating culinary survey of China with a sampling of recipes that provide some authenticity for home cooks. It is aesthetically pleasing, with numerous beautiful photos of not only the dishes, but also of the people, places and items of China. An excellent read.

Favorite Food Trade Event: For the second year in a row, I have selected the International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. It is an engaging event and I wrote over a dozen posts about the show this year. It is a compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next IBSS in March 2013.

Favorite Cheese Shop: The Concord Cheese Shop has a huge and diverse selection of local, domestic and imported cheeses, including many small production and unique cheeses. Local cheeses are one of their specialties. In addition, they sell a good selection of wines and other gourmet foods. A one-stop store to stock up for any party. The staff is very helpful and it is in a good location, where you can also check out many other intriguing shops. Make it a day and visit Concord and the Cheese Shop.

Favorite Cheese Event: Each summer, the Vermont Cheesemakers' Festival is held at Shelburne Farms and I have attended many of their events, always enjoying myself. This year, the event showcased over 40 Vermont cheesemakers, with over 200 cheeses for sampling, a smorgasbord of dairy pleasures. There was a vast diversity of cheeses, from chèvre to blue cheese, from cheddar to mozzarella. Besides all these cheeses, there were other foods as well, from candy to croutons, breads to hot sauces. In addition, there were local wines, beers, ciders, spirits and other drinks. It does get crowded, but it is still well worth attending.

Favorite Cheese: I love cheese, in all of its forms, and it was not easy to select just one to be my top favorite for the year. However, I made my selection, the Grafton Village Cave Age Truffled Bismark. The Bismark, named for a legendary Vermont ram from the late 19th century, is a sheep's milk cheese that has been aged for at least three months. The Bismark has an intriguing taste; nutty and creamy with a delicious earthiness due to the addition of white and black truffles as well as some truffle oil. This would be a perfect cheese for an umami rich Sake, like a Kimoto or Yamahai. An amazing cheese with such a depth of flavor and complexity. Highly recommended.

Favorite Seafood Treat: Bacon? How about Salmon Bacon? Yes! I enjoyed two different salmon bacons, and they were significantly different. Though I liked both of them, my preference was for the MacKnight Salmon Bacon as it seemed more like bacon rather than just smoked salmon. It still had a salmon flavor, but was thinner and crisper and I would eagerly place it on any breakfast plate. It is even supposed to be healthier for you than pork bacon.

Favorite Pickled Food: It seems that almost any food can end up pickled and this year I was especially impressed with Pickled Willys seafood. They currently have four different types including Wild Ling Cod, Wild Sockeye Salmon, Alaskan King Crab Tail, and Halibut. They use only sustainable, wild Alaskan seafood and it is prepared with organic vinegar, cane sugar, and a blend of pickling spices. The end product is delicious, the fish still having a firm flesh and the light pickling enhances the taste. The salmon was my favorite though I enjoyed all of them.

Favorite Japanese Ingredients: At the International Boston Seafood Show, there was a Japanese pavilion, showcasing numerous food products. The Shinmarusyo Co. Ltd. produces dried bonito and also makes dashi, kind of a fish stock. Dashi is very important in Japanese cuisine, and is a common base for many dishes. Their dashi can be used to make a savory soup, which is rich in umami, that was subtle but complex flavors. In addition, they make a couple soy sauces, including the Shiro Dashi Soy Sauce, and Katuobushiya Dashi Soy Sauce. The Shiro is a light colored soy sauce with dashi and fermented seasonings. A nice depth of flavor and though like many other soy sauces in some respects, it also possessed its own exotic and unique nature. The Katuobushiya is made from dried bonito and Rishiri seaweed. It has a deeper flavor, more like regular soy sauce, but more intense and with a greater umami.

Favorite Mac n' Cheese: Though I had mixed feelings on some of their other dishes, I was impressed with the Mac & Five Cheese Gratin at GEM Restaurant & Lounge. Cooked perfectly, with a crispy top of buttered breadcrumbs and rich, cheesy noodles, this was the perfect comfort food, elevated to a high level. Nice levels of flavor, this bests many other mac n' cheese dishes you will find elsewhere. It is only a side dish, but you could easily make a meal out of it.

Favorite Frozen Food: Though it is generally best to get fresh baked goods, there are times a frozen product can satisfy your cravings. Gagne Foods, located in Maine, produces both fresh and frozen products, including sweet potato biscuits, cinnamon rolls, cream cheese biscuits and more. The sweet potato biscuits were fantastic and I enjoyed all of their products. The frozen biscuits are easy to cook and your guests might even believe they were fresh. Try the sweet potato biscuits and become a convert.

Favorite Local Ice Cream Shop: In West Concord, you will find Reasons To Be Cheerful, a dessert cafe that makes ice cream in small batches using a natural, hormone free, 14% butterfat ice cream mix from a local dairy. Their flavors vary from the common vanilla and chocolate chip to more unusual flavors like sweet azuki and ginger. They even make several ice creams using alcohol such as the Milk Chocolate Guinness and the Dark & Stormy. I found the various flavors to be rich, prominent, and well balanced so that you receive exactly the flavor you desired. The Dark & Stormy was one of my favorites.

Favorite Dessert Sauce: I have raved before about the goat's milk caramel sauces from Fat Toad Farm and this year I tasted a new flavor, their Salted Bourbon Caramel Sauce. It lived up to my expectations, with a sweet, creamy flavor complemented by a salty element and the vanilla notes from the bourbon. Pure heaven. You must try their this sauce or any other of their caramel sauces.

Favorite Candy: Speaking of goat milk, Big Picture Farm is producing some compelling goat's milk caramels. I tasted two of their hand-made caramels, the Chai and Vanilla & Sea Salt. The Chai was spicy, with a nice cinnamon and nutmeg kick, and it was not overly sweet. My favorite though was the Vanilla & Sea Salt, just bursting with creamy flavor, prominent vanilla, that great salty contrast and just the right amount of sweetness. These are very addictive.

Favorite Fruit: Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta introduced me to a new fruit, lucuma. It is a Peruvian fruit which is also known as egg fruit because its flesh seems to resemble the texture of a hard boiled egg. Chef Duarte prepared a dessert using lucuma, a smooth and creamy pudding-like item that reminded me of a delicious butterscotch pudding. Peru is a country rich in exotic food products and I hope more of them make it to the U.S. if they all can be as delicious as lucuma.

Favorite Cupcakes: I am very picky about cupcakes, and am often disappointed by the myriad cupcake stores that have spread throughout the area. However, I found a bakery, Cakes For Occasions, which makes very satisfying cupcakes. Properly moist, the cupcakes are topped by a creamy and light frosting, and the flavors are compelling. These are cupcakes that have earned my recommendation. The bakery sells many other baked goods, such as delicious whoopie pies, cakes, cookies, pies and more. Check out the bakery, get some cupcakes and see what else tantalizes your taste buds.

Favorite Healthy Snack: Kind Healthy Snacks makes all natural whole nut & fruit bars, which have natural protein, fiber and 5 or less grams of sugar. They have plenty of different flavors, including a number with chocolate. My favorite was the Almond & Coconut, which contains almonds, dried coconut, honey, non-GMO glucose, puffed rice, chicory fiber, and soy lecithin. Plenty of delicious coconut flavor, a mild sweetness, nutty accents and a nice chewy texture. It didn't taste healthy and is going to please any dessert lover.

Favorite New Food Market: A short ride away, in Salem, New Hamphire, is the new Tuscan Market, a large artisanal market, which is a one-stop shopping spot for Italian food and ingredients, as well as other quality items. Many of the foods are prepared on premises while others are purchased locally or imported from Italy. Fresh baked breads, wines, cheese, produce, meats, seafood, desserts, prepared foods and much more. There is also a 65-seat café where you can grab a bite, from pizza to pasta. This is a compelling culinary destination and you should be shopping there.

Favorite Food Contest: My inner carnivore roared in approval at the East Cambridge Rib Fest, where over 20 restaurants prepared their own version of ribs. I was even more fortunate as I was one of the judges and got to taste nearly all of the various ribs. So many tasty dishes, including beef and pork ribs, both dry and wet, savory, sweet and spicy. There was live entertainment, local beers and the weather cooperated well. I can't wait to attend this event again next year and highly recommend everyone else go as well.

Favorite Food Controversy: Once again, one of the most important, and sometimes controversial, food issues I addressed this year was seafood sustainability. I have tried to cover a variety of issues, seeking to delve behind the science and rhetoric. The importance of this matter cannot be underestimated, but it is sometimes difficult to get to the truth behind the issues. Last year, the Legal Sea Foods blacklisted dinner made headlines but this year I followed up with Roger Berkowitz (see Part 1 and Part 2) to assess the dinner's impact and Legal's continued efforts. Some of my other posts addressing seafood sustainability include: Stop Eating Cod, Tuna & Salmon, A Sustainability Primer, Verlasso Farmed Salmon, State Of Fisheries Address, How A Restaurant Becomes Sustainable, Aquaculture & Cobia, Consumers Purchasing Sustainable Seafood, Can Bordeaux Save The Sharks?, Eat More Seafood Especially Local, and Bluefin Tuna Stocks Recovering?

My Biggest Personal Food Issue: Last January, I announced that I had been diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes, which required some adjustments to my lifestyle, including more exercise and watching my diet. I have fortunately been successful and brought my blood sugars back to normal levels, also losing a significant amount of weight. It is a health issue that will require ongoing attention but it can be managed. Thanks to everyone who supported me in my efforts and I will continue to make this a priority in my life.

My Food Prediction For 2013: A few restaurants have been experimenting with seafood charcuterie this past year and I predict that it will become an even more popular and prevalent dish in 2013. Charcuterie has been huge, with many restaurants making their own sausages, chorizo, pates and more from a variety of meats. As chefs are often looking to innovate, I feel they will move from pork, beef, poultry and other meats toward seafood. The few examples I have tasted this past year have been delicious and I think seafood charcuterie has great potential.

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?

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Reasons To Be Cheerful: Ice Cream Pleasures

With the popularity of the Dark & Stormy cocktail, a mix of Gosling's Black Seal Rum and ginger beer, doesn't a Dark & Stormy flavored ice cream sound enticing? It does to me and I recently had the opportunity to sample one, which turned out to be absolutely delicious.

Reasons To Be Cheerful is a "dessert cafe" in West Concord, that opened in June 2011, and which primarily sells ice cream and crepes. The owner, Wade Rubenstein, was once a systems engineer but decided to significantly change gears and open an ice cream shop. The website states: "We make our ice cream in small batches using a natural, hormone free, 14% butterfat ice cream mix from the Bliss family dairy in Attleboro, Massachusetts. Our ice cream is made simply by mixing our sweet cream base with high quality flavorings." Many of their ingredients, if possible, are sourced locally and ice cream flavors vary seasonally as well. It intrigued me so I stopped by the shop to check it out.

The shop is located in a small business district of West Concord, amidst a number of quaint stores and buildings. Inside, it has a fun, ice cream parlor decor, with lots of bright colors and a hardwood floor. There are tables where you can sit, or you can sidle up to one of the tall seats at the counter pictured above. The store was very clean, which certainly is a positive sign.

The shop had 20 different ice cream flavors, plus 4 yogurts and 2 sorbets. Flavors vary from the common vanilla and chocolate chip to more unusual flavors like sweet azuki and ginger. Wade also likes creating ice creams using alcohol such as the milk chocolate Guiness and the Dark & Stormy. They produce frozen yogurt (5% butterfat) and tart frozen yogurt (less than .5% butterfat with active yogurt cultures) and their sorbets are non-dairy. Cone prices are Kiddie $3.15, Small $3.95, Medium $4.75, and Large $5.55. They also make a variety of Sundaes plus smoothies, frappes, egg creams, ice cream soda and rickeys. Egg creams and rickeys? Those are very retro additions.

I tasted several ice creams, and they freely offer samples to anyone who comes in so you can try a flavor before deciding to buy it or not. The vanilla, coconut almond chip, ginger, apple pie and sweet azuki were all tasty and possessed certain commonalities. The flavors were all rich, prominent, and well balanced so that you received exactly the flavor you desired. For example, sometimes you taste a wimpy vanilla ice cream, as if it were ashamed to showcase itself. But here, the vanilla was bold and proud, wanting you to enjoy its sweet vanilla taste. All of the flavors are like this, proud of who they are. This is impressive ice cream and you are going to love their bold flavors.

Of course I also tasted the Dark & Stormy, which is made with Gosling's Black Seal rum, candied ginger, fresh ginger juice, and molasses. Yes, it tasted very much like the cocktail and would satisfy the rum lover with a sweet tooth. Again, this ice cream was well balanced, with prominent flavors that were not afraid to shine forth. Mmm..maybe a Dark & Stormy sundae topped with a rum flavored caramel?

Besides the ice creams, they also serve both sweet ($5.25) and savory ($6.25) crepes.You could enjoy strawberries & Belgium chocolate or apples with brown sugar & cinnamon. Or go savory with smoked salmon & creme fraiche or tomatoes, mozzarella & basil. I ordered a Ham & Swiss cheese crepe, made from a buckwheat flour, which is a tradition in France for savory crepes. The crepe evidences lots of little black specks that you might suspect are spices or pepper, but it is just the buckwheat. The good-sized crepe was tasty, with a nice texture and plenty of fillings, and I would order them again.

I have suggested to Wade that, because of his love for making ice cream from alcohols, that he should produce an ice cream using Sake. A Nigori Sake, which can be sweet and present tropical fruit flavors, might work very well. Maybe a Sake Colada, with coconut & pineapple? There are so many possibilities.

So while traveling around locally this summer, make a stop in West Concord at Reasons To Be Cheerful and enjoy some excellent ice cream or a fine crepe.

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Flavors of Fall: A Recap

I never expected that a spoonful of food at Flavors of Fall would so intrigue me.

This past Monday, as part of the media, I attended the Flavors of Fall event at the The Charles Hotel. The event was organized by BostonChefs.com, and cosponsored by City Square Associates, Inc. and The Charles Hotel. This fun event offers food from local chefs, wine, beer and live music, and all of the proceeds go to a local charity. I have been to this event in previous years and it is usually a very enjoyable evening.

This year, the charitable donations were given to Tutoring Plus. "Established in 1964, Tutoring Plus supports and encourages the academic, personal, and social growth of Cambridge youth with the help of volunteers and community partners. Teaming up with area schools, community organizations, universities and local companies, they provide safe, trusted, structured and highly personalized programs. Proceeds from this year's Flavors of Fall specifically support Tutoring Plus's Girls, Media & You, a joint project with Lesley University that brings under-served and at-risk middle school girls together with Lesley undergraduates to focus on the influences of society, culture, and media on girlhood in the contemporary U.S."

Over fourteen restaurants and other companies participated this year, including Area Four, Bergamot, The Blue Room, Bondir, Catalyst, EVOO, Garden at the Cellar, Harvest, Henrietta's Table, J.P. Licks, Noir, Russell Tavern, Sandrine's Bistro, Upstairs on the Square, Brooklyn Brewery and Dreyfus, Ashby & Company.  Each restaurant offered up a small plate, from The Blue Room's Brussel Sprouts Popcorn to Harvest's Caramel Budino.

My only minor complaint was that the lighting was not the best for photos, so I don't have as many photos as I would have liked.

While enjoying the various small plates, you could sit and listen to the Rollo Tomasi Quartet, whose slogan is:  "Jazz Straight Up. Funk Chaser."

To accompany the food, there were six wines and three beers available, including three white wines and three reds. The reds included a Chianti, Burgundy and Malbec, and they were all tasty, albeit relatively simple, easy drinking wines.

That intriguing spoon! Garden at the Cellar presented the Salted Caramel Apple Textures, a combination of apple, peanut praline, caramel powder, and Maldon salt. It had such an interesting mouth feel, and the clean flavors burst forth, meshing well together. It was not as thick as usual caramel sauce, but easily slid down my throat. I enjoyed a few of these spoons, which would make a perfect Thanksgiving ending.

The fine pig that is being sliced up was brought by Bondir, who served up Porchetta on a spelt soft roll with Bacio di Satana pepper jelly. The pork was quite delicious, moist and tender meat, and the pepper jelly added a spicy element.

Catalyst Restaurant provided another very intriguing dish, a Horseradish Flan with braised brisket, smoked paprika and herb salad. I loved the smokiness of this dish and the brisket was meaty and tender. All of the ingredients worked well together, a fine interplay of textures and tastes.

I also enjoyed the Crispy Fried Oysters from Russell House Tavern which were topped by sriracha aioli, citrus salt and pickled watermelon rind. The heat from the siracha was balanced by the fruit flavors and the saltiness of the fried batter and oysters. A mouthful of delights. Bergamot, as usual, pleased me, this time with their Braised Beef Panini topped by taleggio cheese, arugula, and truffle aioli. A delicious sandwich which I would have greatly enjoyed for lunch anytime.

With all of the savory entrees, there was a compelling dessert too.  J.P. Licks brought a Wild Turkey Bourbon ice cream which I thought was excellent.The ice cream was smooth and creamy, with a definite bourbon taste, a bit of noticeable alcohol and no bite. This is an adult dessert which I very much enjoyed and I liked that you can tell it has some alcohol in it, and not just some artificial alcohol flavoring.

I hope the event raised plenty of money for Tutoring Plus.

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