Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) With the best Spanish wine list in the Boston area, Taberna de Haro now carries 325 wines, including 45 Sherries. And now they are holding the "The Quintessential Wine Tasting" on Wednesday, September 18, at 7pm. Kerin Auth of Olé Imports will come and lead a tasting of seven different wines.

Kerin has made over 30 trips to Spain and even lived in Sevilla for a year. During the last seven years of her career, she owned and operated Tinto Fino, a wine shop in Manhattan dedicated to selling Spanish wines exclusively. Now shuttered, I was a big fan of that wine shop. Kerin represents a portfolio within the company called "Península" which has a highly allocated selection of wines. That simply means "rare and special." Only 52 establishments around the country are allowed to buy wine from this unique collection, and Taberna de Haro is one of them.

Chef Hansen calls this "Quintessential" because you will experience some of Spain's most important grapes - in their very purest form. All the winemakers in this portfolio are crazily committed to a clarity of expression, and they see no boundaries in attaining this. The infamous Raul Perez is represented here, as is Antonio Barbadillo of Sanlucar de Barrameda (Jerez) fame. Here is the list of wines we'll taste and there will likely be an extra surprise wine or two.

Manzanilla AB Sacristía (palomino from Sanlucar de Barrameda)
Totus Tuus Reserve Brut Cava (xarel-lo, macabeu, parellada chardonnay, pinot noir from Penedés)
Leirana Albariño 2011 (albariño from Rias Baixas)
Tampesta Finca de los Vientos 2010 (prieto picudo from Tierra de Leon)
La Vizcarra 2010 (tempranillo or tinto fino from Ribera del Duero)
La Vitoriana (mencia from Bierzo)
Elo (monastrell from Yecla

The cost is $50 per person (plus tax & gratuity) and Chef Hansen is working on the menu, It will include food pairings both classic and innovative. For Reservations, email deborah@tabernaboston.com or call 617-277-8272.

2) Tavolo, in Dorchester, is hosting its next Cheap Flights to Italy on Monday, September 9, for only $25 per person. You will receive 3 wines paired with 3 regional tastings, and this installment's country is Sardinia,

The Menu is:
First Glass: 2011 Botromagno, Gravina Greco/Malvasia Blend
Paired with Seafood First Bite: Artisan Bread & tomato stuffed Squid
Second Glass: 2010 Argiolas, Cannonau Di Sardegna, which has great body
Paired with Lamb Second Bite: Braised Lamb with Fettuccine & Sheep's Milk Ricotta
Last Glass: 2011 Vallebelbo, Moscato d' Asti, a sweet indulgent treat to finish.
Last Bite: Traditional Sardinian Almond Cookie

3) On Thursday, September 19, The Beehive gets undressed during Diamonds and Pearls, a sultry burlesque performance in partnership with Moët & Chandon and Domaine Chandon. From 9pm-1am, one of New York City’s busiest burlesque performers Calamity Chang, also known as “The Asian Sexsation,” will be joined by the “Go-Go Pussycat,” Lil’ Steph and quintessential pin-up queen Bettina May for a mid-week break proving that you don’t have to be dressed to impress.

The tantalizing beauties will take the stage at 9pm as DEFTrio, a groovin’ jazz trio heats up The Beehive for a night of classic burlesque. Guests are encouraged to make it “dinner and a show” as Executive Chef Rebecca Newell serves her eclectic fare and delicious dishes from The Beehive’s menu from 5pm-2am. All evening show-goers can sip on bubbly from sponsors Moët & Chandon and Domaine Chandon, and toast the night out with a special champagne cocktail!

To make reservations for dinner and a show, please call (617) 423-0069

4) It is time for the 8th annual Heirloom Tomato Festival at Bistro 5 in Medford. From September 10-28, you can enjoy a Special 3 or 5 Course Tasting Menu, with or without wine pairings, which features a variety of heirloom tomatoes. I attended last year's Tomato dinner and it was certainly a delicious and compelling event. I hope to attend again this year and strongly urge my readers to go as well.

Menu
--Pappa al Pomodoro (Bread-Tomato soup and Lardo Crostini)
2012 Le Salse, Verdicchio, Metalica
--Fried Green Tomatoes (Green Zebra, Burrata and Black Olive "Soil")
2011 Cantina Santa Maria La Palma, Vermentino Aragosta, Sardegna
--Black Cavatelli (Pineapple Tomato and Lobster)
2011 Domaine Brazilier, Coteaux du Vendomois
--Rohan Duck (Smoked Speckled Roman Tomato and Thai Basil Creme Brulee, Sweet and Sour Butternut Squash and Pickled Ginger
2010 Gran Sasso, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
--Tomatina (Organic Peach Tomato Mousse, Basil Yogurt Gelato, Vanilla Bean Crème Anglaise and Sweet Pistachio Pesto)
2010 Elio Perrone 'Bigarò', Brachetto d'Aqui

Tasting Menu: Five Course: $75 per person; Three Course: $49 per person
Wine Pairing: Five Course: $25 per person; Three Course: $20 per person

Reservations available online or by phone 781-395-7464

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On September 16, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a wine dinner with Italian winery, Altesino. Nestled away in the heart of Tuscany, Altesino’s production averages 220,000 bottles per year, and is recognized as one of the area’s most distinguished producers. Legal Harborside will team up with Altesino’s Commercial Director and Assistant Wine Maker, Guido Orzalesi, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring cuisine paired with Orzalesi’s choices from the Altesino vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Duck “Rognuggets” with Orange Blossom Honey Dipping Sauce
Mushroom Bruschetta, Guanciale, Quail Egg
Polenta, Braised Snails and Shallots, Balsamic Vinegar
Rosemary Skewered Beef Heart, Agrodolce
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2010
FIRST COURSE
Rainbow Chard and Robiola Agnolotti
Braised Veal Shoulder, Smoked Pine Nuts, Ricotta and Marjoram
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Caramelized Lamb Belly (Oxtail Ragù, Lentils, Fermented Garlic and Roasted Squash) Altesino Brunello di Montalcino, 2007
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino, 2008
MAIN COURSE
Roasted 42 Day Ged Prime Rib of Beef (Rosemary-Horseradish Popovers, Puréed Potatoes, Grilled Escarole and Jus)
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino “Montosoli,” 2006
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino “Montosoli,” 2007
DESSERT COURSE
Dark Chocolate Panna Cotta with Cherry Almond Biscotti
Altesino Vin Santo “Val d’Arbia,” 2004

Cost: $125 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9470

2) Mâitre d' hotel and Fromager Louis Risoli and Wine Director & Sommelier Lauren Collins present Salon Sessions, held at L’Espalier each month. Louis Risoli's passion for cheese is unparalleled and is the driving force behind the Grand Fromage at L’Espalier since 1988. Lauren Collins, Wine Director & Sommelier at L'Espalier, joined the team in 2012 and is a certified Advanced Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers. Lauren is one of five people in Boston to obtain this esteemed certification.

L’Espalier presents Classic Combinations at Salon Sessions—an intimate yet educational wine and cheese pairing. Join experts Louis Risoli and Lauren Collins, as they share their knowledge on textbook examples of great pairings, such as Triple Crème with Champagne, Stilton and Port, Chevre and Sancerre as well as Clothbound Cheddar with Bordeaux.

When: Thursday, September 12, at 6pm
Cost: $55 per person
Reservations are required. Please call L’Espalier at 617-262-3023

3) Legal Sea Foods is holding their fifth annual Oyster Festival this fall, from September 18 through October 15, Legal Sea Foods will celebrate everything oysters via menu features and a quartet of special events. All Massachusetts Legal Sea Foods locations will feature a series of rotating in-restaurant specials including Fried Oysters ($10.95), Oyster Stew ($10.95), Oyster Legal ($14.95), Oyster Po-Boy ($11.95) and Oyster & Andouille Sausage Jambalaya ($15.95).

“Our oyster bars are a hallmark of our restaurants,” observed Roger Berkowitz, President and CEO of Legal Sea Foods. “And no longer should oysters be just the favorites of gastronomes. We want to educate all our guests and encourage experimentation. We’d like everyone to share the belief of the idiomatic saying, ‘the world is your oyster.’”

Special events will be held at various Legal Sea Foods locations and will include:

--Shellfish Shindig, a ‘shuckout’ of $1 oysters at Charles Square’s outdoor Terrace Bar (September 22 from 2-4pm; a la carte pricing)
--Sip, Slurp and Sup, a trio of small plates paired with oyster-friendly wines hosted in the Park Square location (October 1 at 6:30pm; $40 per person)
--Mollusk Mania, an “everything oysters” party featuring a raw bar of eight varieties and four passed appetizers on the all-weather rooftop at Legal Harborside (October 6 from 2-4pm; $45 per person)
--Oyster Brewhaha, a four-course oyster and craft beer dinner at the Kendall Square location (October 8 at 6:30pm; $55 per person).

The health benefits of oysters come by the bushel. The bivalves are rich in protein, low in fat and calories, low in cholesterol, chockfull of vitamins and are nature’s best source of zinc. All shellfish are separated into batches according to vendor and certified bed area and subsequently tested for purity within 24 hours of receipt at its Quality Control Center, a state-of-the-art fish processing center complete with in-house laboratory. Product remains quarantined until test results confirm negative for toxins. Legal Sea Foods thus ensures that its oysters are, indeed, the best tasting and safest in the industry.

4) On Tuesday, September 24, Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro (BHHB) and the New England Aquarium will co-host a “Celebrate Seafood Dinner” to raise awareness of the challenges facing the oceans and the benefits of sustainable seafood. For just $65 per person, $55 for New England Aquarium members, guests will be treated to a one-of-a-kind, multi-course dinner with communal seating that will satiate the palate while satisfying the soul. For an additional $30, guests can enjoy an optional wine pairing with each course.

Executive Chef Josh Lewin is committed to incorporating local products and sustainable practices into Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro’s cuisine in unique and innovative ways. To bring this delicious and educational feast to diners, Lewin worked alongside the Aquarium’s Sustainable Seafood Program to bring only the freshest, most sustainable ingredients to the table. Joining the Bistro and Aquarium will be special guests, Pat and Barbara Woodbury of Woodbury Shellfish in Wellfleet, as well as Adam Fuller and Larry Trowbridge from Snappy Lobster Company in Scituate, to speak about their companies and the changing landscape that is affecting local resources. As they speak, guests will be able to taste their product firsthand by indulging into Chef Lewin’s creative take on Woodbury’s farmed shellfish and Snappy’s dayboat seafood.

For reservations please call: 617-723-7575. Seats are limited.

MENU:
Swordfish Conserva, Mouse Melon, Tomato Vinaigrette
Wellfleet Oyster, gelled in its liquor. Horseradish and Whey Granita
"Rachel Rose" Scallop Mousse. Cherry Cilantro Jam, Mangalitsa Lardo, Sabzi
Harpooned Swordfish and Lobster, Heirloom Tomato, Tomato Consomme, New Potato
Olive Oil Cake, Mexican Chocolate, Beets

For reservations please call: 617-723-7575. Seats are limited.

5) The region’s seafood industry will be the focus of the second annual Boston Seafood Festival. Hosted by the Fisheries Foundation (BFF) on Saturday, September 28 in the Seaport District at the Bank of America Pavilion, the event will be a day of celebration and festivities.

The Boston Seafood Festival will offer a full day of events focused on educating the public about the local and global elements at play in New England’s dynamic fishing industry. The event will take place from 11am-10pm and will include more than 20 vendors serving up fresh-from-the-water fare, an all-day lobster bake, celebrity chef demonstrations on how to cook seafood, an oyster shucking contest, the New England Aquarium Touch Tank and other hands-on activities for children, as well as educational panels presented by scientists, fishermen and nutritionists focusing on seafood and sustainability. Tickets are $10 and can be purchased in advance at www.bostonseafoodfestival.org.

Established by the BFF to raise awareness of New England’s fisheries, the festival highlights America’s original seafood hub, a centuries-old industry facing many modern-day issues. The Boston Seafood Festival hopes to set the tone this year for an even larger celebration next year, which will be held conjunction with the 100th birthday of Boston Fish Pier, an enduring symbol of the New England fishing industry. “We have to work together to sustain and support our fish and fishing families or iconic fishing centers like the Boston Fish Pier may disappear,” says Robert Nagle, co-founder of the Boston Fisheries Foundation and Vice President of Operations at John Nagle Co. The BFF will celebrate New England’s passion for fishing and delicious seafood bounty with locals and visitors at this all-day event. BFF President and Co-Founder Chris Basile, owner of Quarterdeck Seafood Market, says, “Whether you enjoy the most traditional or the most adventurous seafood, you will find it at the festival. We are really excited to share our love of seafood with the public.”

Fishing-related organizations such as Ocean Trust, Saving Seafood and Gloucester Fishermen’s Wives Association, along with scientists and nutritionists, will be on-hand to share information. There will be local culinary talent presenting stage demos throughout the day; some of the notable chefs who will demonstrate perfect fish preparation include Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta, Chef Rich Garcia of the former 606 Congress, and Chef Bill Bradley of the New England Aquarium. Last year, thousands of guests came to the event to enjoy the seminars, demos, music, and competitions. This year, the organizers anticipate more than 5,000 attendees over the course of the festival.

On Friday, September 27th, the BFF and Boston Seafood Festival organizers will kick off the weekend’s events with the second annual Boston Seafood Gala. This event will include culinary offerings from many of New England’s most prestigious chefs. Tickets to the gala are $125 per person and can be purchased by visiting www.bostonseafoodfestival.org. The gala will take place at the Exchange Conference Center on the Boston Fish Pier in the Seaport District. Proceeds from this celebratory gala event will benefit the Boston Fisheries Foundation.

6) Joslin Diabetes Center, the world's largest diabetes research and clinical care organization, will celebrate with “ritmos de salud” at the Artists for Humanity EpiCenter on September 26th, to benefit its Latino Diabetes Initiative.

Guests will enjoy an evening filled with upbeat Latin rhythms from Grammy nominated Gonalzo Grau as well as a performance by Salsa Matei Dance Company; guests will be encouraged to join in on the dance floor. A fabulous array of food will be provided by 10 of Boston’s most renowned Chefs, led by our culinary chair – Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta.

Diabetes is a disease of epidemic proportions across all populations, affecting certain racial/ethnic groups in even greater numbers. National data demonstrates that Latinos have a two-fold increase in the risk of developing type 2 diabetes compared to the Caucasian population. Joslin Diabetes Center’s Latino Diabetes Initiative (LDI) strives to improve the lives of Latinos affected by diabetes, or at risk for the disease, through culturally oriented patient care, education, outreach and research, as well as working to find a cure.

When: Thursday, September 26, 6pm-11pm
Cost: Tickets are $65 can be purchased by calling 617. 309.2512 or e-mail Kevin.Hudson@joslin.harvard.edu

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Changes At Posto: An Updated Review

Change has come to Posto and the intended objective is to make the restaurant even better than before. I have long been a fan of Posto so I was intrigued to see what the changes would bring. Last week, I was invited to a media dinner to check out some of those changes, and speak to them about what else might be coming for Posto. I am pleased to say that the quality of the food remains as high as ever.

Joseph Cassinelli, Chef & Owner of the Alpine Restaurant Group, recently named two inaugural positions including: Alec Riveros as Director of Operations and Chef Robert Jean as the Culinary Director of the group. Casssinelli and Riveros previously worked together in 2002 at Excelsior, where Cassinelli was Sous Chef and Riveros was the General Manager. Riveros was our host during the media dinner, answering our questions about the new changes. Additionally, at Posto, Chef Wyatt Maguire was named as Executive Chef and Vanessa Leesam named as Sous Chef (and they are pictured above). 

The menu has been revised in both substance and layout. It now is a single page menu, broken down into Antipasti (11 choices from $2.50-$14), Ensalate (4 choices from $10-$13), Paste (6 choices from $17-$19), Carne E Pesce (5 choices from $18-$26), and Pizze (12 choices from $11-$19). They have kept some of the long time favorites, like the Arancini and Nonna's Meatballs. The menu also changes around every 3-4 days, though only about 2-3 items change each time. Some of the changes are seasonal, such as taking the Bolognese and Carbonara off the summer menu though they will return when the hot weather is over. The menu continues to present plenty of diversity, an assortment of dishes that should appeal to all preferences.

They no longer offer Brunch though you could visit their other restaurant, The Painted Burro, for Brunch. (And if you go, get the meatloaf!) As for future changes to the Posto menu, they are considering the possibility of adding Charcuterie or even a Cheese program.

The beverage program has also seen some changes. The cocktail list now includes a selection of Aperitivo, Cocktails made with house infused spirits, house made limoncello and simple syrups, in addition to selections of local and international draft and bottled beer. Cocktails are generally priced $9-$12 and they carry about 15 beers and a pear cider, priced from $6-$9.

The wine list, which is about 90% Italian, offers 32 wines by the glass, priced $8-$22, with most $12 or under. They have some good diversity, including some more artisan wines, and they are seeking to expand their choices. Wines by the bottle are generally priced about $36-$100, however the markup on many of those wines is 3 times the usual retail, which means the markup from their cost is even higher. I would like to see a lesser markup, which I think would lead to increased wine sales. They are also seeking ways to keep their wines available by the glass at a better temperature.

We started the evening with an Aperol Spritz ($10/glass, $34/pitcher), made from Aperol, Prosecco, and Soda water. A pleasant and refreshing summer cocktail with a balance of sweet and bitter.

A couple Antipasti were initially brought to our table including Olivas ($5), warm olives with orange, rosemary, and chile de arbol.

We also received Pane ($2.50), hot loaves of rosemary sea salt bread, which use the same dough as they use for their pizza. This is a Posto classic that has been kept and as a bread lover, this gets my hearty recommendation. There is a spicy chili oil into which you can dip the bread, or just enjoy it on its own. The bread is also perfect for dipping into some of the other dishes you'll have.

For our first course, there were two dishes which were split between everyone. There was Barbabietola ($13), a salad of baby beet, sicilian pistachio, orange vinaigrette, and feta. I am not a fan of beets but the feta was creamy and tasty, and those who liked beets very much enjoyed this salad.

I enjoyed the Fritto ($11), a fried green tomato with fennel salad and buttermilk dressing. A pleasant start to the meal, with a fresh, juicy tomato and a light, crisp coating.

To accompany this course, we drank some 2012 Poderi Cellario Favorita. Made from the Favorita grape, a white grape grown primarily in the Piedmont, this wine was crisp and clean, with delicious pear and citrus flavors, as well as hints of floral and herbal elements. A delicious and more unique wine, it was food friendly too, and a welcome addition to their wine list.

Our second course was the Mozzarella ($14), Bufala mozzarella with prosciutto, yellow peaches, and a rosemary honey. Both the Bufala and honey are from Vermont, and they infused the honey in house with rosemary. A superb melange of flavors, this is an excellent summer dish with creamy cheese, juicy grilled peaches, salty ham and hints of sweetness from the honey. Give me some hot bread, this dish and a nice wine, and I would be very happy.

Our next course, again split among the diners, was a Pasta course. Pasta has always been a strong point at Posto and it remains so. The Gnocchi ($18) is made with braised lamb, pecorino toscano, white wine, and vidalia onion. The tender, pillowy gnocchi were accompanied by tasty, earthy flavors from the lamb. The white wine sauce was light and flavorful, accenting the gnocchi and lamb.

The Agnolotti, containing beef shin, were accompanied by thumbelina carrot and fried shallots. Again, the pasta was cooked perfectly, and the meaty filling added plenty of flavor to the dish. It was a lighter dish, perfect for summer, and the fried shallots were a nice addition.

The next wine of the evening was the easy drinking, 2009 Guido Porro "Vigna Santa Catarina" Barbera d'Alba. Light and fruity, with a touch of spice and earthiness, it is a fine food wine as well as something you could enjoy on its own. This wine is going to appeal to most wine lovers, seeking a simple wine to savor and enjoy.

Fish head time! The Trota ($22) is a piece of Rainbow Trout, sustainably farmed in Idaho, with kale, marcona almonds, onions and marrow. When you order the dish from the menu, you get the whole trout, so they added the fish heads to our dishes as a nod to that. The trout was tender and tasty, and the crunch of the salty almond enhanced the fish.

During our dinner, there was a discussion of Risotto, and I mentioned how it had always seemed rare on the Posto menu. The only Risotto they have right now is a Heirloom Tomato Risotto, which is part of the Swordfish dish. It is made with yellow tomatoes, using tomato water and not cream, as well as parmesan rind. An excellent Risotto, it was creamy with rice at just right texture, and the taste of tomato was prominent and fresh. I could have easily devoured a big bowl of this Risotto, and hope that Posto decides to add more Risotto to their menu.  

Our final savory course was a selection of four pizzas, including Caponata ($17), Marinara ($11), Mais ($17) and Salsiccia ($17). I tried 3 of the different pizzas, all but the Caponata, which is made with eggplant, goat cheese, tomato conserva, grapes, and pine nuts. This is Neapolitan pizza, with a soft, chewy crust, though people unfamiliar with this style may think the dough is undercooked, though it is not. I like this style of pizza, and the crust has always been one of my favorite parts of this type of pizza.

The Marinara, with sliced garlic, oregano, and parmesan, is a basic pizza, sure to appeal to the picky pizza lovers. The Mais comes with sweet corn, fontina, applewood bacon, grape tomato, and basil puree, offering a nice balance of sweet and salty flavors. The Salsiccia is made with fennel sausage, whipped ricotta, and a pistachio nut pesto. There was plenty of tender sausage, complemented by the creamy ricotta and nutty pesto. Pizza is always a fine option at Posto.

Dessert was up next. Though much of their dessert is made in house, they do purchase their Gelato from Christina's in Cambridge and their Cannoli from Modern Pastry. We had their Panna Cotta, a lemon basil flavor with strawberry and shortbread. Though Panna Cotta usually doesn't impress me much, this was different, the creaminess making for a more compelling dish.

My favorite dessert at Posto has long been their Tiramisu, which I think is one of the best in the area. Besides a wonderful blend of balanced flavors, it has a great texture, which doesn't fall apart or start oozing. In the past, I have taken it home and it still remains as a solid piece, rather than sliding into a gooey lump. If you have any room after dinner, you must order the Tiramisu.

With our dessert, we sipped some 2012 Vietti Cascinetta Moscato d'Asti, a crisp, lightly sweet, and fruity wine with a bit of frizzante. Nice flavors of peach and citrus, it is well balanced with a pleasant finish. This is not one of those overly sweet Moscatos that some people enjoy. This is a more serious wine, which should please many wine lovers.

As a final treat, we savored glasses of the Damilano Barolo Chinato, said to be similar to an offspring of Vermouth and Amaro. Posto has 4 Chinato on their wine list, and this is supposed to be the sweetest of the four. Chinato starts with a base of Barolo and then adds an herb infused alcohol, which contains quinine bark and some 21 other spices and herbs (such as rhubarb, gentian, orange peels, cloves, and cardamom seeds). As the quinine bark is known as "china" in Italian, that is the derivation of the name chinato. Legend states that Barolo Chinato was invented in the 1800s by a pharmacist seeking to create a medicinal potion. It is an interesting wine, with a savory blend of spices and some bitterness, though not to the level of a Fernet Branca. The sweetness, which is still relatively low, balances out the bitterness. There is plenty of complexity in the Chinato, and you get some of the usual Barolo flavors too.

Our main server for the evening was Jaime (pictured above), who was personable and attentive. She knew the food menu and wine list well and made sure we all had an enjoyable evening. Our main host, Alec Riveros, also did his best to ensure we had a fine evening. He was upfront in his answers to our questions, and also seemed interested in any suggestions we had to offer as well.

Posto remains as one of my favorite restaurants, and the changes have not diminished the quality in the least. The changes have largely been positive and I think the restaurant will continue to improve, rather than remain stagnant. My only concern is with the high markup on their wines, which is a problem with many restaurants, and far from unique to Posto. If you haven't been to Posto, or haven't been there in some time, then you should make the effort to dine there and experience some delicious Italian food, from small plates to pizza, from pasta to seafood.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The Barcelona Wine Bar, a new Spanish tapas restaurant in Brookline, has a number of upcoming cooking classes which you might find of interest.

April 29, 7pm: Tapas Party in an Hour 
It's possible to plan and prep for a tapas party in an hour! We have quick, easy, dynamic, inspired tapas that can be easily prepared for a group in about an hour. Executive Chef Steven Brand will show you how to make Chorizo and Figs, Boquerones, Mushrooms a la plancha, stuffed olives, dates with almonds wrapped in Serrano ham, and more.
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

May 27, 7pm: Spring Vegetable Classroom
Ramps, Morels, Favas, Peas, Asparagus. What's the home cook to do with the abundance of spring vegetables? How do we break through the doldrums of winter and come out inspired on the other side? Chef Steven has the answers.
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

June 24, 7pm: Pig Roast 101 
Are pig roasts a daunting project for the home cook? We think not! See how fun and easy this process can be for the next time you have a dinner party for 12 people. Once the pig is roasting, Chef Steve will show you some ideas for side dishes that will accompany the roast, even dessert!
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

To make reservations for any of these classes, please call the restaurant at 617-264-8900.

2) On Sunday, May 5, from 5:30pm-1am, The Beehive is going south of the border in celebration of Cinco de Mayo with its annual event featuring live music and food & cocktail specials. Guests will be able to indulge in Mexican-inspired food specials from Chef Rebecca Newell while getting in the spirit with tequila cocktails made from Leyenda del Milagro Tequila, the finest small batch, artisanal mescal. A special performance by nine piece Mariachi band, Mariachi International, will keep the night going as they take over The Beehive’s stage from 6:30pm-12am. Mexican appetizers, entrées, desserts and tequila specials will be served all night long. In classic Beehive spirit there will be plenty of surprises and there is never a cover charge.

Reservations are highly recommended by calling 617-423-0069. Sombreros welcome!

3) On May 15, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Bethel Heights Winery. Known best for their Pinot Noir blends, Bethel Heights has been a family business since 1977 with its winery located in Oregon. Legal Sea Foods will team up with Bethel Heights’ winemaker, Ben Casteel, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with Casteel’s choices from their vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Curried Scallops, Brioche Toast Points, Cilantro Crème Fraîche
Oysters on the Half Shell, Chimichurri Vinaigrette
Shrimp Gazpacho Shooters, Micro Cilantro
Bethel Heights Pinot Gris, Oregon, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Seafood Trio Soup (Clams, Mussels, Shrimp, Coconut Lemongrass Broth, Curried Crostini)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Pinot Blanc, Eola-Amity Hills, 2011
SECOND COURSE
Pan Seared Halibut Fillet (Ratatouille Niçoise, Provencal Butter Sauce)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, 2011
THIRD COURSE
Wood Grilled Faroe Salmon (Wild Mushroom Croquette, Shallot Butter Sauce)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2010
Bethel Heights “Flat Block” Estate Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2009
CHEESE COURSE
Morbier, Bijou, Camembert (Berry Compote, Buttery Toast Points)
Bethel Heights “Casteel Reserve” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2010

Cost: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

4) On April 29, at 6pm, Lucia Ristorante is presenting a four course wine dinner with a menu designed and executed by Chef Pino Maffeo. The wine is sponsored by United Liquors, a Massachusetts-based distributor focusing on wine and spirits, with guest speakers Claudio Farina of Remo Farina Winery, Don Allen of Banville and Jones Wine Co., and representatives from Pala Wines.

Chef Pino has handcrafted a menu of dishes to complement the authentic flavors of these wines. Chef will guide guests through the menu, which includes:

FIRST COURSE
Roasted Beets with a red wine vinaigrette and shaved Ricotta Salata
Pala I Fiore Vermentino
SECOND COURSE
Veal and ricotta cannelloni with wild mushrooms
Pala I Fiore cannonau
THIRD COURSE
Duck with roasted hazelnuts, brown butter
Remo Farina Valpolacella Riparsso
Remo Farina Amarone dell Valpolacella
FOURTH COURSE
Fresh berries with zambaglione

Cost: Tickets are $50 per person.
For reservations, please call 617-367-2353.

5) The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, will be sampling and celebrating the arrival of Rosé on Saturday, May 18, from 1pm-5pm, during the complimentary Rosés Are Here tasting. Guests can gain a new appreciation and explore this light and refreshing wine. Rosés that have finished last in the past when the wine market was flooded with White Zinfandel look-a-likes but, are quickly making a comeback. As the summer weather rapidly approaches, wineries are releasing their best rosés to the market for optimum enjoyment. Guests will not want to miss this chance to drink this chilled wine and discover the full spectrum of flavors that Rosés have to offer.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On Thursday, March 21, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Chehalem, the popular Oregon-based winery specializing in both red and white varietals. Legal Sea Foods will team up Chehalem’s winemaker, Wynne Peterson-Nedry, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with choices from their vine. Chehalem, the local Calapooia Indian word meaning “gentle land” or “valley of flowers,” prides itself on purely reflecting what its vineyard has produced.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Oysters* on the Half Shell, Green Apple and Poblano Vinaigrette
Seared Sea Scallop Tartlets, Curried Leek Jam
Lobster Spring Rolls, Citrus Ginger Glaze
Chehalem “Three Vineyard” Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Seared Halibut Fillet (Mussels and Fennel Cream Sauce)
Chehalem “INOX” Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Poached Maine Lobster (Tarragon Nage, Baby Mache)
Chehalem “Ian’s Reserve” Stoller Vineyard Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, 2008
THIRD COURSE
Hickory Wood Grilled Veal Chop (Morel Mushrooms, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potato)
Chehalem “Three Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2010
Chehalem “Ridgecrest” Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge, 2010
CHEESE COURSE
Morbier, Port Salut, MouCo ColoRouge (Cherry Compote, Toast Points)
Chehalem “Reserve” Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge, 2009

Cost: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

2) Darryl's Corner Bar & Kitchen (DCBK) hosts a fundraiser called “Big Star on Bar”, which showcases a community figure who serves as the "Startender" of the evening, mixing a specialty cocktail to raise money for the charity of his or her choice.

On Monday, March 11, from 5:30pm-8:30pm, Dr. Tiffany Cooper Gueye will be behind the DCBK bar, making BELLinis with 100 percent of her tips going toward BELL. There will also be a surprise raffle over the course of the evening. There is no cover charge and the event is open to the public. For reservations, please call 617-536-1100.

3) Haru’s Boston location is bringing back its popular promotion from last summer: Mystery Envelopes. From March 1 until May 1, Haru will once again offer its guests a chance to win a prize every visit they make.

Instructions to play: simply visit Haru Boston from March 1 through May 1 to receive your mystery envelope (while supplies last). DO NOT OPEN THE ENVELOPE. On your next visit to Haru Boston on or before May 20 (must be different day than when mystery envelope was received), present the still-sealed mystery envelope to a manager or server to see what treasure awaits. Prizes include $10 and $25 Haru gift certificates, complimentary sushi rolls, $100 Amex gift cards and a grand prize of $500 in Amex gift cards. Even guests who don’t win a prize won’t leave empty-handed (so to speak): holders of non-winning envelopes will receive a complimentary order of edamame as a gift.

The more often you frequent Haru Boston, the more envelopes you can collect so come often and come hungry [subject to limit of (1) envelope per person/household per (12) hour period].

More Info: No Purchase Necessary. Must be 18 or older. Most participants will receive complimentary order of edamame. Odds of winning a prize are approximately 1:6. Subject to Official Rules posted at Haru Boston. 

4) Eddie Huang, chef and owner of the critically-acclaimed BaoHaus in New York’s East Village, is bringing his beloved Taiwanese and Chinese cuisine to Boston, joining Big Night Entertainment Group’s Executive Chef Kevin Long in the Empire kitchen to create a special feast. Co-hosted by Long and Huang, the Thursday, March 14 event will kick off a visiting celebrity chef series showcasing Chef Long’s talents alongside some of today’s top chefs.

The $50 dinner will be a unique opportunity to experience Huang’s and Long’s cuisine in a stylish setting at an incredibly accessible price. Combining Empire’s hip atmosphere and lavish cuisine with BaoHaus’ authentic neighborhood feel, guests will receive an experience unlike any other. The menu will include items from Huang’s proprietary menu, including the Chairman Bao, the Uncle Jesse Bao and Coffin Bao Fried Chicken with Spicy, Tingly Condensed Milk, alongside signature items like Oxtail Soup with Heirloom Tomatoes and Mung Bean Noodles and Pi Dan Tofu.

Chef Huang – a former lawyer, stand-up comic, author, blogger and media personality – will also be signing his recently published memoir. “Fresh off the Boat” will also be included in the price of dinner. (Books will also be available for purchase and signing to Empire patrons who don’t attend the dinner.)

For reservations, please call 617-295-0001.

5) Irish eyes will be smiling when The Beehive presents their 6th annual St. Patrick’s Day festivities on Sunday, March 17 from 5pm-1am. St. Patrick’s Day at The Beehive means an evening of authentic entertainment including performances from Boston-based and lively Irish music performers, Irish inspired à la carte food & drink specials from Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey, Tyronnell Irish Whiskey and Connemara Irish Whiskey, and an evening like only The Beehive can create.

The claim from inside the ‘hive’ is that while there will be plenty of surprises, this will not be your typical Irish fest. “No green beer…but what we are planning is a sophisticated evening of amazing Irish comfort food and authentic, world-class, Irish entertainment for a mature audience,” said Co-Owner, Jack Bardy.

This year at the ‘hive,’ a “special guest” performance will kick of the night of Irish filled festivities at 5:30pm. Husband-wife duo Matt & Shannon Heaton will then bring their shared musical experience and love for Boston’s Irish music scene to the stage at 8:00PM. Boston-based, Matt has made his musical home in Boston’s Irish scene while Shannon has co-founded Boston’s Celtic Music Fest and teaches for Boston’s Comhaltas. Their modern take on traditional centuries-old Irish songs, which features Irish flute- and guitar-driven tunes and traditional Irish-style singing, will bring out emotion and Irish pride from the Irish and non-Irish alike. Matt and Shannon’s entertaining and organic onstage banter is almost good as the music (almost)!

In addition to serving the regular menu, Chef Rebecca Newell has created several à la carte specials including: Corned Beef & "Cabbage" Flatbread with Sauerkraut & Cheese, Finaan Haddie Smoked Fish & Chips with Malt Vinegar Aioli & Slaw and Grilled Lamb Chops with Colcannon Mashed Potatoes just to name a few. Along with The Beehive’s regular libations, the bar will mix traditional Irish cocktails with the best of Kilbeggan’s Irish Whiskey, Tyronnell’s 10 year Port Cask and Connemara’s 12 year Single Malt.


Dinner reservations are recommended, no cover charge, both the upstairs and downstairs bars will be open for service.

6) This March experience wines from the different regions of the world at Tuscan Kitchen’s weekly Regional Wine Tasting Series. Every Wednesday from 6pm-8:30pm, Tuscan Brands’ Wine Director Joe Comforti will lead guests on a special tour as they sip and swirl their way through different wine regions across the globe. For only $20 per person ( tax & gratuity not included) guests will enjoy various regional wine samples accompanied by Salumi e Formaggi and artisanal Hand-crafted Breads from Tuscan Market bakery. Held upstairs in The Wine Bar, this series is the perfect excuse to relax midweek while enjoying wine from distinguished wine producers.

March 6th, 2013: Tuscany, Italy
March 13th, 2013: A World Tour
March 20th, 2013: Piedmont, Italy
March 27th, 2013: A Tour of Italy

Reservations accepted for parties of seven or more. Call-ahead seating is available for parties smaller than seven. Simply call (603) 952-4875 before leaving your home or office and if on a wait, you will be added to wait list ensuring priority seating. Upon arrival, please check in with the host at the front door. *There may be an additional wait when you arrive.

7) Since its opening in fall 2012, Belly Wine Bar in Kendall Square has quickly gained a following as a destination for offbeat, eccentric and hard-to-find European wines. This spring, the team at Belly will introduce some playful new food offerings for groups of all sizes that will guarantee a full belly and a seat at the restaurant (these munchies are reservation-only). So shake up your typical vino and cheese duo with gooey fondue, fried chicken and wine pairings and Sardinian lamb arm + a leg-style!

Seasonal special menus include:

Fondue for Your Crew
$14 per person
February - May
Get your dunk on with dip-able brussels sprouts, EVOO roasted potatoes, grilled focaccia, endive and apples, all ready for plunging into a gooey bowl of Spring Brook Farm Reading Raclette, Emmentaler and Gruyere.

Arm + A Leg: Lamb Jam
$62 per person
Begins March 1
Chef Robert Grant’s signature whole-animal spread switches gears for spring with a Sardinian lamb feast. Belly up to communal tables with your friends for four courses of baller carnivorous fare like lamb neck with salsa verde and fregola sarda, sticky glazed short ribs, whole wood-roasted leg of lamb, and Pecorino Calcagno with honey and nuts.
Reservations: Available for groups of 4-12 people. Please give at least 48 hours’ notice. All Arm + A Leg reservations must be made at: http://www.bellywinebar.com/reservations.

Fried Chicken and Orange Wine
$25 per person; $50 per person with flight of wine
May - September
KFC Belly-style: Killer Fried Chicken and Orange wine. A bucket of fried chicken (hot or cold), flight of orange vino and all the bird-loving extras (biscuits, pickles and citrusy fennel + radicchio slaw) enjoyed with your friends in your flip-flops on the patio.
Reservations: Available for groups of 4-8 people on the patio or in the dining room. Online reservations available beginning May 1.

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Boston Wine Expo: From Portuguese Pleasures to Jerky

A couple hundred wineries, from over 15 different countries, presenting over 1000 wines. Yes, the Boston Wine Expo was recently in town, a huge event allowing consumers and the trade to experience both wines on the market and wines which hope to be distributed within Massachusetts. I attended once again, primarily during the trade hours, when it is a bit quieter and I can better taste a variety of wines and speak with the winemakers, distributors and other representatives.

It seemed to me that there were less wines at the Expo this year, or at least it seemed that way as there was more open space. There was certainly a large selection of wines, more than anyone can taste in a single weekend, but the aisles did not seem as crowded, which was a good thing. As usual, there was a good selection of non-wine vendors, with plenty of free food samples, which helped cleanse the palate between tastings.

Though the Expo program guide contains a map of the exhibit hall, so you can better locate the wines you seek, it would have been beneficial if that map was available prior to the Expo. With such a map, attendees could better pre-plan their exploration of the Expo. In addition, I would have liked a bit more diversity in the wine selections, to see more countries represented, or more lesser known regions from countries that did attend. For example, let us see more Sake and Sherry, more Israeli and Lebanese wines. Local wines also seemed underrepresented this year, though they had made a good presence at last year's Expo.

Much of my tasting this year concentrated on Portugal and Italy, with a number of stops at a selected few other areas. Overall, the wines that I tasted were good and some were even excellent. My tastings also provided me more evidence of the great value that is found in Portuguese wines, as well as that Italy has plenty of compelling wines. I spent some of my time tasting with Jason of Ancient Fire Beverage, and we agreed on a number of the wines we tasted. I also recommended some of the wines to others attending the Expo and there was much consensus from them as well.

Let me start by sharing some of my Portuguese finds.

I'll start with one of my top finds of the Expo, an incredible value wine that exemplifies what I love about Portuguese wine. The 2009 Quinta do Penedo Dao Red (about $12-$15) is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro, and sees some aging in used French and American oak. From an alluring aroma to a complex and compelling taste, this wine drinks like something at twice the price or more. Delicious black fruit flavors, plenty of spice and a nice exotic taste. A well balanced wine, with good acidity and a lengthy finish will satisfy to the last drop. This wine receives my highest recommendation, especially at this price.

The 2011 DFJ Alvarinho Chardonnay is an interesting and tasty blend of Alvarinho and Chardonnary. It is crisp and clean, with nice flavors of citrus and green apple with mineral notes. The 2010 Casa das Gaeiras Blanco, a blend of Arinto, Chardonnay and Fernão Pires, is very aromatic and has a crisp taste with delicious flavors of citrus and pineapple with floral accents. An excellent summer wine, or an accompaniment to seafood. The 2011 Casa das Gaeiras, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Syrah, is a big wine, with bold spices and blackfruit. However, it is balanced with well integrated tannins and a lengthy, satisfying finish. This wine beckons for beef, or a hearty ragu.

The 2011 Beato Nuno, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Castelão, is a lighter, simpler wine but with an appealing nose and a soft, fruity taste. A nice pizza or burger wine. The 2010 Quinta do Cachao, made from 100% Touriga Nacional, is also a light and pleasant red wine. An easy drinking wine for a casual meal, or to drink on its own.

All of the following wines are from the Adega de Borba winery, a cooperative of 300 wine growers, which is also one of the ten largest wine producers in Portugal.

The 2011 Montes Claros Colheita White, a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and Alvarinho, is a tasty and aromatic white, with excellent acidity and citrus, apple, and tropical fruit flavors with a mineral backbone. Good whether alone or paired with food. The 2010 Montes Claros Reserva, a blend of  Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, is bold, with prominent tannins but deep flavors of dark fruits and spices, as well as hints of chocolate and herbs. Nice complexity and a pleasing finish. The 2007 Montes Claros Garrafeira, a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez and Tinta Caiada, had a fascinating aroma, a melange of intriguing spices and fruit, and the taste fulfilled the promise of the nose. An elegant wine, with complex flavors, restrained tannins and a lengthy finish. An impressive wine that is well worth seeking out.

The basic 2011 Adega de Borba Tinto, a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet, was an easy drinking red with a spicy, exotic taste and a light fruitiness. Pizza, burgers, meatloaf or on its own. The 2008 Adega de Borba Reserva is more complex and deep, as well as more tannic. It would be better with food than on its own. The 2002 Adega Borba Garrafeira, a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, reminded me of the previous Garrafeira. From a compelling nose to an intriguing and complex taste, this is another winner of a wine. Well balanced, delicious and eminently satisfying. This wine might be a bit more aromatic than the other Garrafeira. It too is impressive and deserves to be sought out.

I have previously raved about the wines of Esporão and I stopped by their table to taste through some of the newest vintages. The 2011 Monte Velho White, a blend of Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum, is a crisp and tasty white with delicious citrus flavors and a fresh feel. The 2011 Esporão Verdelho is another delicious white, with nice acidity, good fruit flavors and a clean taste. The 2011 Esporão Reserva White, a blend of Roupeiro, Arinto and Antao Vaz, sees a little oak but it is still fresh and approachable, a more full bodied wine that is an excellent food wine. The 2011 Esporão Defesa Rosé, a blend of Syrah and Aragones, is fresh and bright, with delicious red fruit flavors.

The 2011 Monte Velho Red, a blend of Aragonês, Trincadeira, and Castelão, is full bodied, bold and spicy with nice black fruit flavors. A simple red yet still compelling with its slightly exotic taste. The 2010 Assobio, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Franca, is a bit smoother and lighter, and not as bold. But its taste is compelling with a pleasant blend of dark fruits and spice. The 2009 Esporão Reserva Red, a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonês, Cabernet Sauvvignon, and Alicante Bouschet, is also full bodied, and more complex, with a well balanced blend of flavors and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Over all, the wines of Esporão are very worthy of your attention.

La Face Cachée de la Pomme, based in Quebec, produces Neige Apple Ice Wine, an ice cider, and I have been a fan for over six years. It is sweet but balanced with a good acidity, and has a rich, apple flavor that makes an excellent dessert wine. I find it especially good paired with an apple or fruit dessert, such as an apple pie or fruit tart.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that they have a new product, Neige Bubble, a sparkling apple wine that sells for around $15.99 for a 750ml bottle. It is produced in the traditional method, from McIntosh apples, and 10% of Neige Apple Ice Wine is added to the bottle. It also has a low alcohol content of 7.5%. The Neige Bubble has a prominent and pleasing apple flavor and it is only lightly sweet. The bubbles make it refreshing and I believe that many people are going to enjoy this wine. I was impressed and will be sure to have a bottle or two at my next holiday party.

I have tasted and enjoyed a couple previous wines from Mallorca but was intrigued to check out another Mallorca producer at the Expo, Son Prim Petit Celler. Their winery was built on 2003 and they produce about 90,000 bottles annually, choosing to create wines in a more modern style. The 2010 Son Prim Cup is a blend of Mantonegro, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. I think the addition of the Mantonegro elevated this  wine, giving it a bit of a more unique taste. The wine was complex, with a nice blend of plum, black cherry, blackberry and spice notes. The tannins were moderate and it was a bold wine that wasn't overpowering.

I really need to drink more Franciacorta. It is a sparkling Italian wine made in Lombardy, often an inexpensive alternative to Champagne, and the handful of Franciacorta I have tasted have all been delicious. At the Expo, I experienced the wines of Guido Berlucchi, who was the first to produce this sparkling wine in 1961. I began my tasting with the Berlucchi  Metodo Classico Rose Cuvee '61, a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. A simple, easy drinking and dry wine with bright red fruit flavors. Refreshing and pleasant.  It was tasty but it was the Franciacorta that thoroughly impressed me.

The Berlucchi Franciacorta '61 Brut is a blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, sits for about 24 months on the lees and sees no malolactic fermentation. This is such an elegant wine, smooth, complex and alluring. Delicious and clean flavors of green apple, melon and citrus with a rich mouthfeel. This was a "wow" wine and I wished at the moment that I could sit and drink the entire bottle. The Berlucchi Franciacorta '61 Rose, a blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay was equally as impressive, another elegant and complex sparkling wine but this time with delicious red fruit flavors. I would be hard pressed to say which of these two wines I liked better. These wines seem to cost around $30-$35 and I think that makes them both excellent values. Both are highly recommended, and are going to motivate me to seek our more Franciacorta.

A couple more Italian wine highlights include the following:

2011 Curtes Pecorino Falerio: Made of 100% Pecorino, this was an interesting white wine with pleasant citrus flavors and some nutty notes. Crisp, clean and tasty, I could easily enjoy this on its own or with food.

2009 San Joseph Rosso Piceno Superiore: A blend of 50% Montepulciano and 50% Sangiovese, this has a powerful earthy aroma, which might be offputting to some. I liked its rustic nature, with its cherry and plum flavors, vanilla and herbal notes.

I have to give some love to one of the food exhibitors too, Slant Shack Jerky. They use only grass fed beef, from farmers in Vermont and New York, and it comes in a variety of flavors. You can even custom order your own flavors, choosing a marinade, rub and/or glaze. They had four flavors available to taste at the Expo, including: Dried & True, Jerk McGurk's Wild Rubdown, and two Hot & Smoky flavors. I was impressed with the flavors of the jerky, as well as its texture which wasn't too tough or chewy. The Wild Rubdown, which has ginger, garlic, brown sugar, cayenne and paprika was my favorite of the four. It is available online or at Whole Foods and some other specialty shops.

What were some of your favorites from the Boston Wine Expo?

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Castello di Selvole: Traditional Chianti Classico?

Guido Busetto, the owner of Castello Di Selvole winery, couldn't tell me whether their Chianti Classico wines were crafted in a traditional or more modern style. Many other writers had asked him that very question but to Guido it was not an important question, or at least a question that he did not consider when producing his wines. His goal is simply to create wines without changing their essential characteristics. To me, his wines reflect a traditional style and that is something I like.

On the Friday before the Boston Wine Expo, I attended a media lunch at Gennaros' 5 North Square, where Chef Marisa Iocco now showcases her culinary skills. Representatives of two Italian wineries were at the lunch, both which would also present their wines at the Wine Expo. Marina Thompson, of Thompson International Marketing, stated that many Europeans view Boston as a city that is very European in style, possessed of elegance and culture. That is why many European wineries like to come to the city and present their wines. It feels much more like home to them than a huge and busy place like New York City.

Castello Di Selvole winery is located in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, about 12 kilometers from the city of Siena. The winery possesses about 100 acres of vineyards and 23 acres of olive trees, so that they produce both wine and olive oil. They produce four different red wines and I had the opportunity to taste all four of them, three of them with lunch and the other at the Wine Expo. Guido began his wine career in Bordeaux, eventually deciding to purchase a vineyard in Tuscany. Guido was personable and knowledgeable, a passionate advocate for his wines. However, his wines stand well on their own, persuasive through their aromas and taste.

We began our lunch with a dish of Burratina Caprese, a delicious, creamy ball of burrata. With this dish, our first wine was the 2009 Castello di Selvole Chianti Classico (about $20). It is made from 100% Sangiovese, aged in French barriques for about 7-9 months and then aged for an additional three months in the bottle. With a rich, medium red color, it had an enticing aroma, a melange of cherry, spice and earth. On the palate, it was a powerful but elegant wine, with restrained tannins and a rich, deep flavor of black cherries, spice and a certain rusticness. An excellent food wine, this is the style of Chianti Classico which I prefer to drink. Lots of character for the price, I would recommend this wine.

The next course was Manicotti Italo-American, a crespelle filled with ricotta, spinach and nutmeg. Despite the spinach, I actually enjoyed this dish, with its nice blend of flavors and textures. For this course, the wine was the 2009 Castello di Selvole Chianti Classico Riserva, made from 100% Sangiovese, aged for 18 months in French barrique and 6 months in the bottle. This wine is just starting to be imported into the U.S. so it does not have a price yet though likely will be around $30 or so. This possessed everything that the basic Chianti Classico possessed, but with greater depth and complexity as well as a lengthier finish. This was my favorite wine of the lunch, an excellent example of the best of Chianti Classico, and it receives my highest recommendation.

The final entree was a hearty Veal Ossobuco, slow braised with fall vegetables. Tender, flavorful meat that went well with the hearty wines. I was initially concerned about the next wine, a Super Tuscan, the 2003 Castello di Selvole Berullo. It is an equal blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which was vinified in concrete and spent 18 months in French barrique and 6 months in the bottle. I thought that maybe this wine might be more international in style, because of the Merlot and Cabernet France, but that turned out not to be the case. It had an inky dark color and a restrained nose, yet on the palate it was a more powerful and strong wine, yet was not jammy or over the top. There also were not any vegetal/green pepper flavors from the Cabernet Franc. Instead, there were pleasing tastes of plum, black cherry and black fruits, with a spicy backbone, nice acidity and a lengthy and satisfying finish. It too receives my hearty recommendation.

At the Boston Wine Expo, I had the chance to try the 2010 Selvole Sangiovese Toscano, made from 100% Sangiovese and which sees only stainless steel. It was light, fruity, and simple, an easy drinking wine that would be great with pizza or pasta. A very affordable value wine.

Look for the Castello di Selvole wines on your local wine shop shelves, especially if you enjoy more traditional Chianti Classico wines. They are excellent food wines, reasonably priced and should impress most wine lovers.

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The Welcome Return of Prezza

Prezza is on fire! 

I am speaking figuratively of course. After suffering a terrible kitchen fire last July, Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano reopened Prezza on January 10. Prezza is one of my favorite Italian restaurants so I eagerly looked forward to their reopening. Last week, I returned to the restaurant for dinner and though they have been reopened for less than three weeks, it seemed as if they were back at the top of their game. The kitchen was not rusty in the least. Prezza is back and you need to dine there.

After a chocolate tasting at Cocoanuts, I went to Prezza for dinner with a few friends and fellow bloggers, including Adam, Jen and Kerrie. None of them had ever dined at Prezza before. They all left the restaurant thoroughly impressed, well sated after an incredible meal. You can check out Jen's review and Kerrie's review of their dining experience at Prezza. As someone who has dined there before, I found everything was as good as ever and it continues to receive my highest recommendation.

During the course of the evening, we enjoyed two bottles of wine, including the 2007 La Spinetta Barbera D'Asti Ca' Di Pian ($42) and the 2007 La Spinetta Nebbiolo Langhe ($54). La Spinetta is a consistently good producer and both of these wines were delicious, pairing well during the course of our meal. Prezza's wine list has over 800 choices, and there are some incredible wines on the list which will thrill any wine lover. Though many might prefer to order Italian wines, the list includes wines as well from all over the world. The list tends to be reasonably priced and there are good wines available at all price points.

We began our meal with a few appetizers, including Anchovy stuffed eggplant with scamorza and roasted tomato ($16), Lambrusco braised Chicken Thigh with grilled bacon and crispy potatoes ($16), and the Chestnut soup with croutons, duck confit and white beans ($15). I didn't try the eggplant but was assured by Jen that it was delicious. The chicken thigh was amazing, with tender, moist meat accompanied by a rich, compelling wine flavor. The thick slice of bacon and crispy potatoes enhanced the dish, which I would definitely order on a future visit.

I ordered the chestnut soup and was not disappointed in the least. The creamy, rich soup had a prominent nutty taste that was complemented by the tender duck slices and the beans. The crunchy croutons were a nice addition and I could have easily devoured a dozen more of those too. A hearty dish for the winter, it makes for a good starter.

Chef Caturano then generously sent us a couple complimentary dishes of pasta, including Chestnut Raviolini with pulled duck, butter and parmigiano cheese and Potato Gnocchi “a la Bolognese”, a rustic meat ragout with, tomato, porcini cream and pecorino cheese. I have long been a huge fan of his pasta dishes and both were superb. In both dishes, the pasta was cooked perfectly, the sauces were well spiced and balanced, and each bite made you crave another. I would highly recommend both dishes, and in fact, any pasta made at Prezza.

For an entree, two opted for the Seared Sea Scallops with squid ink gnocchi, lobster, cherry tomatoes and basil lobster broth ($34), one for the Fish Stew, lobster, swordfish, shrimp, clams, mussels, squid, lobster broth, toasted bread with saffron aioli ($38). I heard raves for the Scallops and Stew, and both dishes had ample portions. Prezza doesn't skimp on quantity, and also does not sacrifice quality.

I went for Bambi, aka Venison Loin with grilled cabbage and amarone risotto ($38), though I opted out on the cabbage. The venison loin was a good-sized hunk of meat and I savored every bite. Cooked nicely, it was moist and flavorful, as appealing as any piece of beef. The risotto was also amazing, perfectly cooked rice with a rich flavor bringing to mind red fruits and spice. I was well satisfied with this dish.

Though tempted by the Zeppole with salted pecans and chocolate sauce on the Dessert Menu, I was just too full, like everyone else at the table, to order dessert. It didn't help that we had sampled numerous chocolates before coming to Prezza.

Service was excellent, as usual, and we all had a great evening, filled with fine food and wine, excellent conversation and plain fun. I am so pleased that Prezza has reopened and cannot recommend it enough. The food is as exquisite as ever, they don't skimp on quantity, and there are plenty of excellent choices for drinks. I wish Chef Caturano and the staff at Prezza much luck and I hope to return there again soon.

I must try the Zeppole.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) For Valentine's Day, consider Tavolo where Chef Nuno Alves will be have a special ala carte Valentine's Day menu from Thursday, February 14 through Sunday, February 17. .

In addition, they are offering a Couples Cooking Class on Saturday, February 16 at 12pm. Come to Tavolo, strap on an apron, and learn together how to make beet (think pink) raviolis, roast rack of lamb, and seasonal sides. All this togetherness, plus a post-class luncheon with wine, is $120 per couple. Call to reserve your space at 617-822-1918.

Also on Saturday, February 16, at 6pm, there will be Live Acoustic Guitar from their own Ryan Beke. Ryan is a local musician who attended Berklee, teaches several instruments to kids, records, and brings a funky energy. Beke has become a regular at the infamous Wally's in Boston, but you can skip the crowds and see him here, and you never know who he'll bring along to jam with.

2) For Valentine's Day, Thursday, February 14, the four restaurants of the Grafton Group, including PARK, Russell House Tavern, Temple Bar and Grafton Street, will have special menus.

PARK
Valentine’s Day Dining à la Carte

First Course
Chilled Crab & Melon Salad (Avocado, Roasted Lime Vinaigrette)
French Onion Soup (Bone Marrow Toast) Seared Foie Gras (Armagnac-Soaked Prunes, Brioche)
Entrée
Seared Scallops (Truffled Cauliflower Purée, Crispy Kale)
Grilled 12-oz. Ribeye (Potato Gratin, Roasted Asparagus, Red Wine Sauce)
Dessert
Red Velvet Cupcake (Mascarpone Frosting)

Russell House Tavern
Three-Course Prix Fixe
$59 per person ($10 discount for reservations before 6:30 PM)
$18 per person optional beer or wine pairing

First Course
Potato & Pernod Soup (Smoked Moosabec Mussels, Watercress)
Parsley & Ricotta Cavatelli (Braised Goat, Raisins, Pine Nuts, Mint)
60-Degree Egg (Parsnip Honey, House-Smoked & Cured Speck, Arugula)
Smoked Duck Rillettes (Fernet, Cherries, Toast)
Entrée
Roasted Half-Pheasant (Toasted Sunflower Butter, Wild Mushroom Pancake, Pea Greens)
Salt Cod & Roasted Tomato Stew (Crispy Oysters, Sea Urchin Rouille)
Moscato & Fennel-Braised Veal Shank (Anson Mills Polenta, Black Fig Gravy)
Crispy Cider-Glazed Heritage Pork Belly (Apple, Celery Root & Guanciale Hash, Soft-Poached Egg, Vinegar Greens)
Dessert
Chocolate Strawberry “Snowball” (Chocolate Truffle Cake, Strawberry Mousse, Coconut, Marshmallow)
Olive Oil Cake (Lemon Gelato, Pine Nut Cookie, Mint Simple Syrup)
The New England Cheese Board (Three Local Cheeses, Traditional Accompaniments (add $9)

Temple Bar
Three-Course Prix Fixe
$49 per person ($10 discount for reservations before 6:30 PM)
$18 per person optional beer or wine pairing

First Course
Thai Coconut-Lemongrass Soup (Poached Shrimp, Thai Basil, Frizzled Leeks)
Panko-Crusted Scallop Cakes (Beluga Lentils, Candied Bacon Jam, Crispy Beet Root)
Foie Gras Terrine (Kumquat Marmalade, Fennel Pollen, Pickled Mustard Seeds, Brioche)
Teriyaki-Braised Short Rib (Green Tea Rice, Pickled Veggies)
Entrée
Warm Eggplant Casserole (Fennel-Parmesan Gratin, Wild Mushroom “Meatballs,” Cured Black Olives, Capers, Grilled Baguette)
Rosemary Honey-Glazed Rohan Duck Breast (Sweet Potato Pavé, Broccoli Rabe, Black Mission Fig Jus)
Pan-Seared Mahi-Mahi (Israeli Couscous, Sliced Almonds, Grapes, Cilantro, Pineapple Curry Sauce, Crispy Plantains)
Grilled Ribeye Steak (Creamed Spinach, Truffled Duchess Potato, Gorgonzola Butter, Bordelaise)
Dessert
Chocolate & Peanut Butter Mousse Cake (Dark Chocolate Ganache, Caramelized Banana)
Passion Fruit & Strawberry Napoleon (Filo Dough, Coconut Mochi, Ginger Caramel)

Grafton Street
Valentine’s Day Dining à la Carte. Suggested wine pairings available

First Course 
Chestnut Rangoon (Oxtail Marmalade, Young Celery Leaves, Pine Nuts, Truffle Oil)
Parmigiano Reggiano Tartlet (Tuscan Kale Salad, Toasted Almonds, Plump Golden Raisins)
Entrée
Pan-Seared Atlantic Halibut (Red Curry Sweet Potato Purée, Radish, Edamame, Tarragon, Green Apple)
Grilled Brandt Farms Ribeye (Aligot Potatoes, Rapini, Smoked Bone Marrow Butter, Bordelaise)
Dessert
Dark Chocolate Decadence Cake (Brandied Amarena Cherries, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream)

3) Lucia Ristorante & Bar has teamed up with United Liquors, a Massachusetts-based distributor focusing on wine and spirits, to present a four course wine dinner. Guest speakers from the beverage industry will kick off the evening, introducing each course which will be paired with Italian wines from Zyme, a wine company founded by Celestino Gasperi, son-in-law of Giuseppe Quinterelli, one of Valpolicella’s most legendary winemakers.

The four course menu with wine pairings is as follows:

FIRST COURSE
Antipasto / Salmon Carpaccio
2011 Zyme “il Bianco from black to white
SECOND COURSE
Parpardelle with Wild Mushrooms, black truffles
2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore
THIRD COURSE
Braised Leg of Lamb
2007 Zyme 60/20/20 grape varietal Cabernet, Merlot, and Cabfranc
FOURTH COURSE
Parmesan Reggiano
2004 Zyme Amarone

When: Monday, January 28, 6 p.m.
Cost: Tickets are $50 per person.
For reservations and more information, please call 617-367-2353.

4) Chef Paul Turano, chef/owner of Tryst restaurant in Arlington, has taken it upon himself to bring authenticity to his special prix fixe Mardi Gras dinner being held on Tuesday, February 12, from 5pm-10pm. Served in addition to Tryst’s regular menu, Mardi Gras diners can look forward to experiencing a three-course prix fixe menu available for $38 per person (tax and gratuity not included).

The menu will feature items such as oysters with chorizo mignonette, crawfish and chicken etouffee and Southern comfort bread pudding with pecans, apples & vanilla bean ice cream. Guests will also be able to enjoy authentic cocktails and Hurricanes galore.

Reservations are strongly recommended and can be made by calling 781-641-2227.

5) On Saturday, February 9, from 12pm-5pm, check out the Wine ConneXtion’s fourth annual “Battle of the Big Cabs,” a complimentary in-store wine tasting featuring high-end, luxury wines that are rarely uncorked. The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, will be bringing out the big guns and opening some of the world's most distinct and exclusive Cabernets names such as Silver Oaks and Faust. Guests will have the opportunity to sip and swirl the featured wines before voting on their favorite Cab while munching on complimentary cuisine from Sultan Mediterranean Cafe located in North Andover.

Regardless of the winner, all of the featured wines will be available to purchase for a special price throughout the day. Walk-ins welcome all day. Free to the public. *Please note: Must be 21 or older.

6) “Laissez les bons temps rouler!" is a Cajun expression meaning "Let the good times roll!" and it strongly conveys the joie de vivre ("joy of living") attitude of The Beehive’s 6th Annual Mardi Gras celebration on Tuesday, February 12. The South End hot spot has spared no expense in making this year’s festivities as authentic as possible. Diners and party goers alike can look forward to the traditional jazz style of BT New Orleans 2nd Line Brass Band which will keep the crowd singing and swinging all night long.

Further indulge with Chef Rebecca Newell's Cajun inspired à la carte specials featuring authentic NOLA-style dishes. Finish off your meal with a big old Hurricane, put on your complimentary Mardi Gras beads, and you’ll be ready to hit the dance floor.

Come for dinner, come for the music and cocktails…come to see what “New Orleans Style” is all about. There is no cover charge for this event. Regular menu served in addition to all special items. Reservations recommended so please call 617-423-0069.

7) Special for Mardi Gras, Darryl’s Corner Bar & Kitchen will be welcoming New Orleans’ own jazz musician, Henri Smith, this Fat Tuesday. Henri Smith made his mark on the music industry in New Orleans, the birthplace of jazz, where he polished his talent for many years. As a radio personality for New Orleans’ premier jazz station for 14 years, Smith was a household name even before he began thrilling audiences with his jazz, blues, creole, and Cajun flavored music. Finding himself in Boston after the tragedy of Hurricane Katrina, Smith has established his groove in New England. Engaging audiences all over the area, he has become the go-to for traditional jazz entertainment.

Darryl’s Corner Bar & Kitchen's menu for Fat Tuesday/Mardi Gras will transport guests straight to Canal Street. Full of authentic New Orleans cuisine, dinner choices include: gumbo with okra; fried catfish strips; Jambalaya with shrimp, sausage, chicken, mussels, and rice; and more.

The special New Orleans themed cocktails are the other piece of the equation, equaling a “big fat” time. Specials include: DCBK Hurricane – Darryl’s take on the New Orleans original, built with dark rum, light rum, amaretto, fresh orange and pineapple juice, grapefruit bitters, and topped with grenadine; The Sazerac – Named after the coffeehouse where it appeared for the first time in 1859, this New Orleans signature cocktail features rye whiskey, Peychaud’s Bitters, and homemade simple syrup, served to preference, chilled neat or on the rocks; Dirty Cajun Martini – Southern style dirty martini served shaken and up with premium vodka and hot sauce; Dirty Oyster Martini- Literally, a dirty martini with a fresh oyster in lieu of an olive.

DCBK is encouraging guests to wear masks, collect beads, and march into Boston’s best corner bar dressed for the celebration, as the “best dressed” will win the choice of a DCBK $100 gift card or a Sunday Jazz Buffet Brunch for four. There is a $5 cover charge for live entertainment. For more information and reservations, please call 617-536-1100.

8) This Valentine’s Day wine, dine and seduce your significant other at Tryst, located in Arlington. Guests enjoy a special 3-course prix fixe menu created by Executive Chef Paul Turano. This exclusive menu features specials such as Tagliatelle Bolognese, Berkshire Pork Porterhouse Chop, Grilled Flat Iron Steak and Miso Glazed Sea Scallops. After dinner, guests can relax, reminisce and indulge in Tryst’s house-made Valentine’s Day desserts such as Vanilla Bean Cheesecake and Flourless Chocolate Torte, while sipping on after dinner cocktails with a twist.

Tryst’s Valentine’s Day dinner menu is $45 per person (tax, gratuity and beverages not included), and will be offered exclusively on Thursday, February 14 from 5pm-10pm. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling 781-641-2227.

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