Strega Prime: A Brief Lunch Review

Opened for less than two weeks, Strega Prime, located in Woburn at the site of the former Beacon Grille, is Nick Varano's third restaurant. Strega Prime is intended to be an upscale Italian steakhouse and it seems to fit that objective. I recently ate lunch there and will provide my thoughts though please keep in mind that the restaurant is newly opened and needs time to iron out the initial kinks that all new restaurants face.

Though it maintains a similar basic layout to the Beacon Grille, there have been some changes to the decor, from the "cow hide" bar stools to the multiple TV screens in the main dining room showing black & white movies.

Their wine list is extensive, with over 1300 selections, but it is pricey. For example, the Caymus Conundrum, at an average retail of $20, is on their list for $65. A 3 1/2 times markup on the retail is huge, especially considering the true markup is even higher.  "Upscale" shouldn't mean that wine prices are at such a high markup, catering to businessmen on expense accounts.

The Lunch menu is broken into Raw Bar, oysters or shrimp, ($14), 3 Salads ($7-$12), 2 Soups ($6-$7); 4 Appetizers ($9-$14), 3 Sandwiches ($12-$14), 3 Lunch Salads ($14-$18), 4 Lunch Specials ($14-$26) and 6 Desserts ($8-$9). For example, you could start with a Hand Chopped Beef Tartar ($9) and then get a 12 oz. Sirloin Burger ($14) with Parmesan Frites. Or a Shrimp Caesar Salad ($18) or even a Grilled Chicken Club ($12)

Lunch begins with a warm Popover, which though some see them as old-fashioned, I still enjoy. This was a nice popover, with what seemed like a dusting of parmesan atop it, and I smeared butter all along the eggy inside. A good start to lunch.

I then began my meal with the New England Corn & Clam Chowder ($6) which has crispy pancetta and parsley butter. Though it had a pleasant taste, and plenty of corn, lots of onions and tiny potatoes, it seemed to lack many clams. What clams seemed to be present were minced to tiny, almost unidentifiable pieces. It seemed like far more of a corn chowder, with some clam flavor, and not quite what I was expecting.

The Grilled Salmon ($19) comes with Yukon gnocchi, fresh peas, cherry tomatoes, and is in a white wine sauce. The large piece of fish was cooked well, and was tender and flavorful, complemented by the light white sauce. The gnocchi were well made, pillowy and tender. A good lunch choice.

The Chicken Milanese ($16), with capers, tomatoes, and baby arugula, has a light Marsala sauce which adds flavor to the chicken without swimming in it. It was a substantial piece, with moist, tender chicken covered by a crisp & clean coating. I was impressed with this dish and would order it again. Highly recommended for lunch.

For dessert, the Italian Smores ($9), with gianduja budino, marshmallow, & pizzelle, makes a cool presentation. It is also tasty, with rich, smooth chocolate, covered by sweet marshmallow, with a caramelized crust. You can either take your spoon to the chocolate and marshmallow, or smear it on a pizzelle. It is large enough to share, and I am sure both of you will enjoy it.

There were a couple services issues initially, basically a server who didn't pay attention to what told to him. In addition, another server was apparently soaked in a strong cologne and every time he passed by the table, you couldn't help but have your nose assailed by his cologne, detracting from lunch. These are issues though which hopefully will be fixed in the near future as the new restaurant works out its initial kinks.

I'll return here and report back on the progress of Strega Prime.  

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On August 4th, Boston’s restaurateur, Nick Varano, the CEO and owner of The Varano Group, will open the doors to his newest dining establishment, Strega Prime. Located in the former Beacon Grille space at Tradecenter 128 in Woburn, this will be an upscale Italian Steakhouse, a new concept for Varano. Strega Prime’s new Executive Chef Farouk Bazoune, the former Executive Sous Chef at Mooo in Boston, worked hand-in-hand with Corporate Chef, Salvatore Firicano and Varano to develop the upscale steakhouse menu to incorporate touches of Varano’s famous modern Italian cuisine.

For salads and appetizers, highlights include: Hand Chopped Steak Tartar (prime beef, soy glaze, pickled red onion and marrow toast - $16); Fried Parmesan and Truffle Calamari (gremolota, sishitto peppers, fennel, spicy Arrabbiata sauce - $13); Braised Kurabuta Pork Belly (parsnip puree, exotic mushrooms, Madeira sauce -$14); and Roasted Beet Salad (beet puree, honey-whipped ricotta, Mache, pistachio dust - $11). For a la carte options, notable mentions include: Petite Filet (8 oz -$37) and the Porterhouse Steak for Two (42 oz - $88). There are a number of sharable sides like the Four Cheese Macaroni ($10/ with fresh lobster meat - $18) and the Sherry Wild Mushrooms ($14). There is also a section of fully plated entrées with options like: Seared Sea Scallops (mushroom pesto fregula salad, salsa verde, crispy shallots - $34), Butter Poached Lobster (parsnip puree, lobster beure monte – MRKT) and Cavatelli (ricotta cavatelli, fontina cheese, cheddar cheese, black truffle puree, confit garlic - $16/$29).

For lunch, menu highlights include: Prime Beef Carpaccio (house mustard sauce, shaved parmesan, arugula, Grissini -$13); Veal and Pancetta Dumplings (ginger soy sauce, micro cilantro -$12); Maine Lobster Roll (salad of greens -$19); Strega Prime Open Face Sandwich (sirloin, gorgonzola, baby tomatoes arugula -$15); and the PLT (pancetta, lettuce, tomatoes, Tuscan bread, parmesan fries -$12).

Strega Prime offers an extensive beverage program featuring house-made martinis, craft cocktails, wines and beer. The newly renovated space will feature a large wine cellar with over 1,300 selections of red and white wines and over 7,500 bottles for guests to enjoy. The extensive selection includes a number of rare and exclusive wines that date back as far as the late 1940’s. In addition to the by-the-bottle options, Strega Prime will offer 45 wines by-the-glass, as well as a selection of beers including 6 craft on-tap choices and 12 bottled beers.

Strega Prime is open Monday through Friday for lunch from 11:30am-5pm, and seven days a week for dinner service from 5pm-11pm. Strega Prime’s Ultra Lounge will be open until 2am seven nights a week. Strega Prime will also offer a Sunday brunch service, which is set to begin in the early fall of 2013.

2) On Tuesday, August 20, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Hugel & Fils. Hugel & Fils’ production averages 110,000 cases per year, of which around 90% is exported to more than 100 countries worldwide. Legal Sea Foods will team up with Frederick Wildman & Sons’ Director of Marketing & Fine Wine, Martin Sinkoff, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with Sinkoff’s choices from the Hugel & Fils vine.

The menu will be presented as followsr:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Crab & Wild Mushroom Tartlet, Thyme Lemon Aioli
Citrus Arancine, Dill Crème Fraîche
Oysters* on the Half Shell, Lime & Mint Granita
Hugel Gentil, Alsace, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Poached Sole Veronique (White Wine Sauce, Baby Mache)
Hugel Pinot Blanc, Alsace, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Pan Seared Striped Bass (Quinoa Salad, Tarragon Butter Sauce)
Hugel Riesling, Alsace, 2011
MAIN COURSE
Maine Lobster Casserole (Herbed Red Bliss Potato, Radicchio, Frisée Salad, Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette)
Hugel et Fils Riesling Jubilee Grand Cru, Alsace, 2007
DESSERT COURSE
Caramelized Pear Crostata (Honeyed Mascarpone Cheese)
Hugel et Fils Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Alsace, 2005

COST: $75 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

3) Lucia Ristorante Owner Donato Frattaroli and Executive Chef Pino Maffeo introduce the next class in the Lucia Winchester cooking series by teaching guests how to make a variety of Risotto dishes. On Wednesday, August 21, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Chef Pino will show guests the methods and techniques it takes to make the perfect fall dish just in time for autumn. This class will include hands-on demonstrations on how to make his Saffron Risotto, Wild Mushroom Risotto, and Seafood Risotto. Some topics will include different varieties of risotto, as well as recipes and cooking techniques.

The Risotto class costs $60 per person. For more information about this event, or to make a reservation for the class, please call (781) 729-0515. I'll be at this class and am looking forward to learning more about making Risotto, which is certainly one of my favorite dishes. Hope to see you there too.

4) In late August 2013, Chef Tony Maws opens The Kirkland Tap & Trotter, his second Boston-area restaurant, touting a menu of rustic, hearty fare combining ingredients and unexpected flavors that you would find Chef Maws cooking at home for family and friends. Located in Somerville, The Kirkland Tap & Trotter’s atmosphere will embody an eclectic and cozy neighborhood vibe akin to some of the best “gastropubs” in England.

“The Kirkland Tap & Trotter is an ‘every night of the week’ kind of establishment, serving favorites you would find my friends and family gathered around on a Monday night,” says Chef Tony Maws. “You’ll find the same ingredients on the menu at Kirkland Tap & Trotter that you see at Craigie, but here they will be prepared simply and perfectly executed. You won’t see any swooshes on the plates here. I wanted to create a place where I could hang, and guests can embrace my jeans and a t-shirt philosophy, feeling comfortable enough to eat with their hands and play air drums.”

The 115-seat restaurant includes a 12-seat bar, with additional seating at high top tables alongside a large open dining room. The kitchen and menu centers around a large wood-fired grill set into a masonry base, featuring dishes such as: Grilled Spice Crusted Chicken Wings, radishes, arugula; Grilled Red Chile Salmon Head, oxalis; and Grilled Sardines Provençale, parsley, red onion.

The drink menu is also representative of the libations that Chef Maws and his friends and family enjoy imbibing at home, and will feature a large beer list, and an expansive wine by the glass list tilting toward Old World terroir and funky wines made by real people. Additionally, The Kirkland Tap & Trotter has partnered with Revolution Cocktails to create a unique cocktail menu with drinks that are well-crafted but “don’t take ten minutes to make.”

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Taste of The Nation: Helping Feed The Children

Cue the irony, a large group of people gorging on plentiful food and alcohol while nearly 17 million children struggle with hunger. Fortunately, the event is aimed at alleviating the problems of childhood hunger, and 100% of all ticket sales go directly to these efforts.

The Taste of the Nation, which was established in 1988, has run numerous events, all across the country, bringing together chefs, mixologists, wineries, bakers, and more all to help fight childhood hunger. Ticket sales directly support Share Our Strength’s efforts and this year's funds went to their program,No Kid Hungry. This is a very serious problem and this event is doing something significant to combat it, and all of the participants, who mostly have donated their time, food and drink, deserve kudos for their efforts.

I had a fun and delicious time at this event, tasting many interesting dishes, wines and cocktails while getting the chance to chat with some chefs and vendors. It was not overly crowded so you didn't have to wait at most of the tables. I want to highlight several special items at the event, some very new to me, others which continue to impress.

Seafood charcuterie is up and coming, and I definitely want to write a story on it soon. It is an intriguing idea and seems to work well from prior items I have tried.  606 Congress presented a Monkfish Chorizo, which is made with monkfish, cream, egg whites, and chorizo spices. It was tasty, with a creamy texture to it and the spices added a nice balance.

Masa, with locations in Boston and Woburn,  infuses their own Reposado tequila to make a Habanero Watermelon Margarita. I love the taste of watermelon and this cocktail presented a nice watermelon taste, not too sweet, with a tequila undertone and a very spicy finish. I would have enjoyed a big glass of this refreshing, spicy margarita and will have to stop by the restaurant to have it once again.

Mat and Evan of Turkey Shore Distilleries, makers of Old Ipswich Rum, were pouring some of their rum and they recently won three medals at the American Distilling Institute's 9th Annual Craft Distilling Conference & Vendor Expo. Their award is pictured above, a mini-still which actually works! I previously reviewed their distillery and rums, which are worthy of your attention. On May 5, the public is invited to attend Turkey Shore Distilleries' one-year Anniversary Celebration and Rum Release party from 1pm-5pm at their headquarters at 23 Hayward Street in Ipswich.

A bowl of savory and salty Crispy Pig's Ear Chicharrones made by Franklin Cafe. A perfect snack and I wish I had a bowl in front of me right now.

Chef Jason Santos of Blue Inc. served up some Pastrami Dumplings, which were very crunchy, reminding me more of wontons than dumplings. The pastrami fitting went well with the crunchy coating and they were also an excellent comfort food.

Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta, who I often see at charity events, presented an intriguing dessert, a smooth and creamy pudding-like item that uses lucuma, a Peruvian fruit which is also known as egg fruit because its flesh seems to resemble the texture of a hard boiled egg. It reminded me of a delicious butterscotch pudding,  and I had a couple of them because they were so good. Peruvian ingredients deserve much more respect as their diversity offers so many intriguing flavors.

Of all the wines I tasted, the best value finds were two wines from Biohof Pratsch, an organically certified Austrian winery. Both wines were in one-liter bottles, which is 1/3 more than a usual wine bottle, and cost only $13, which would be equivalent to about $9.30 for a regular 750ml bottle. The 2010 Gruner Veltliner was crisp and dry with bright citrus flavors and hints of spice. A very refreshing wine that would be excellent with food or just as a summer sipper. The 2009 Zweigelt was light bodied and smooth with plenty of tasty red fruit flavors. Another easy drinking and flavorful wine, and both also only have 12% alcohol. Excellent values and both are strongly recommended.

I had the pleasure to meet Michele da Silva and Dana Masterpolo, the owners of Bantam Cider, a new cidery in Inman Square, Cambridge. The cidery opened last January and they currently sell a single product, the Wunderkind, which was named in honor of Amelia Earhart. The cider contains only fermented pressed apples, honey and sulfites. The apples are a mix of Cortland, Empire, Macintosh and green apples, all from western Massachusetts. They use a sparkling wine yeast and ferment it dry, adding the honey later more for body than sweetness. It has an alcohol content of 6%, is gluten free and sells in a 650ml bottle for about $8.  

Michele and Dana wanted to make a hard cider that would be accessible to all. They also have plans to make other varieties in the future. In addition, they self distribute so they are still trying to get their product into more venues. I was impressed with the Wunderkind's taste, which was mostly dry, with only a light sweetness, lots of tasty apple flavors, hints of some floral elements and a fuller body than some other hard ciders. It was refreshing and the type of hard cider that you can easily drink a few bottles on a nice summer day.

Michele and Dana emphasized that the cider was food friendly too, pairing well with cheese and spicy Asian dishes. With all of the new artisan breweries and distilleries sprouting up, many of them appear to be run by men so it is good to see women getting involved as well. They have created a good product here, and I look forward to seeing what else they will develop in the near future.

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