Taste Camp: The Wine Industry of Quebec (Part 2)

Vinifera are also important at Vignoble Les Pervenches. The vineyard was established in 1991, but the current owners, Michael Marler and Véronique Hupin, purchased it in 2000. The vineyard consists of three hectares, certified organic, and they grow hybrids and vinifera, though since 2003, they have only planted vinifera grapes. Their most planted grape is Chardonnay, and they possess some which is 22 years old. You'll also find grapes like Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc, and Frontenac. They plan on planting some Pinot Gris this year, planting a few rows to see how it does.

Michael, pictured above, informed us that for the last five years, they have been practicing Biodynamic viticulture though they are currently not Demeter certified. Their issue right now that that they have made some changes to their viticulture, due to difficulties with the laborious practice of stirring the waters for their Biodynamic preparations. To Michael, the only way to assess the efficacy of Biodynamics is to do it and check the results. He is still unsure if his results are due to Biodynamics or simply from being a conscientious farmer.

The winery produces about 15,000 bottles annually, with small increases each year. The cold, like for all of Quebec, is an issue and they cover their vinifera grapes with cloths to protect them, though that can also lead to mice and rabbits sometimes taking residence under the cloths.

We got to taste one of their recently released wines as well as a number of barrel samples. Their whites were definitely my favorites, especially their Seyval Blanc and Chardonnay wines. The 2012 Seyval Blanc & Chardonnay blend ($17) was bottled only 2 weeks ago. The blend consists of 85% Seyval and 15% Chardonnay, was barrel fermented and they used natural yeast. It had a clean, crisp, fruity taste, some delicious pear and apple. Based on my tastings, I think their concentration on white wines is a very good idea and I would recommend you check out their wines.

One of the most beautiful properties we visited was at L’Orpailleur, where we met founding member Charles-Henri de Coussergues. As I stated yesterday, they are now the largest winery in Quebec, producing around 160,000 bottles per year.

Their biggest challenge is to pass safely through the Quebec winters and pruning is a very important aspect in that regard. They conduct 3 main types of pruning, and each grape type has its preferred method of pruning. For example, Chardonnay has a more complicated pruning. They also practice hilling, putting sand or dirt over some of the vines as protection. Their oldest grapes are hybrids, sich as Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Marechal Foch while their newer grapes include Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer.

We started our visit with some bubbly, the NV Orpailleur Brut ($26), and several writers even got to saber open some bottles, using the blade pictured above. They first started producing this sparkling wine back in 1992, beginning with 2000 bottles, and they use the traditional Champagne method. The Brut is made from 100% Seyval Blanc, is aged for about 2 years and has an alcohol content of 11.5%. I was impressed with this Brut, which was crisp, clean and dry, possessed of some subtle and pleasant apple and melon notes. A hearty recommendation for this bubbly.

The winery also produced one of my favorite wines of the trip, the 2010 Cuvee Natashquan ($25), which is also made from 100% Seyval Blanc. It spends a year in French oak, 30% which are new, and it possessed an intriguing complexity, as well as a rich, savory mouth feel and nice citrus tastes. Each sip impressed and I seemed to find something else within it to enjoy. This may be made from a hybrid, but you wouldn't know it from the taste. You would just taste a delicious and compelling wine. Highly recommended.

At L’Orpailleur, after lunch, we had a tasting of wines from a number of other nearby wineries, and I wanted to highlight a few of my favorites.

The 2012 Val Caudalies Rosé ($17.50), a blend of Chambourcin, De Chaunac, Marshal Foch and Lucy Kuhlman, was crisp and dry, with subtle red fruit flavors that brought to mind a Provence Rosé. An excellent summer wine, as well as something that would be delicious year round. Their 2012 Vidal ($16.75) was very aromatic, with citrus, peach and floral notes. Another nice summer wine, something to sip on the front porch, in the backyard or at the beach.

Vignoble Gagliano made a delicious 2012 Frontenac Gris ($18) which had a complex melange of taste, with notes of honey, apricot, and lychee. It was crisp and smooth, with a very pleasing finish. Their 2011 Frontenac Noir ($25) was one of my favorite red wines, with rich red and black fruit flavors, hints of spice and a smooth, lingering finish.

The 2009 Domaine Les Brome Reserve Vidal ($24.50) was intriguing, with delicious citrus, peach, white flower and a backbone of minerality.

White hybrids and ice wine also impressed me at Vignoble Le Marathonien, which is owned by Jean Joly which ran some marathons when he was younger, hence the winery name.

Jean Joly, pictured above, led us on a tour of his 2 hectares of vineyards, which have a very stony soil that provide excellent drainage, and the rocks also maintain heat. The vineyard started in 1989, growing only hybrids, but they now grow a few vinifera, like Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

There are several goats on the property, and the baby goats were especially cute. They serve no larger purpose on the vineyard but they do make for a fascinating attraction for visitors.

The winery produces about 12K-15K bottles annually, including some compelling ice wines.

The NV Seyval Blanc ($12) is 100% Seyval Blanc, a blend of 80% from the 2011 vintage and 20% from the 2012 vintage. It was fresh, clean and crisp with bright fruit. Simple but not one-dimensional. An excellent value wine, pleasant enough to drink on its own or a nice accompaniment with food. The 2009 Boise d'Havelock ($13) is also 100% Seyval Blanc but is undergoes 6-8 months of oak aging. It had a richer, more complex taste and I found it very appealing. Of these two wines, each has their place, and it depends on your mood at the moment which you would prefer.

The 2011 Late Harvest ($28), made from Vidal, was delicious, with a pleasant sweetness, balanced by acidity, and flavors of honey, apricot and citrus. The most impressive wine though was their Ice Wine ($50), also made from Vidal. In 1994, they were the the first ice wine producer in Quebec. This ice wine had a bright golden color, and an alluring aroma of honey, flowers and dried fruit. Its richness caressed the tongue, yet possessed sufficient acidity to prevent it from being too cloying. A lengthy, satisfying finish helped to elevate this wine to the top of the charts. A killer wine and highly recommended.

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Taste Camp: The Wine Industry of Quebec (Part 1)

Exploring emerging wine regions is always a fascinating endeavor even if their wines are not readily available outside of that region. It is an educational experience that can reflect the realities faced by many other emerging regions. It is also fascinating to witness the early growth of a wine region, to be one of the first to see their potential. During TasteCamp, our three-day exploration of the wines, beer and food of Quebec, we encountered one of these emerging regions, which has an approximately thirty year history, and an even shorter history with vinifera grapes.

Quebec's first winery, established in 1981, was Côtes d’Ardoise and it is still in existence. In 1982, the L’Orpailleur vineyard and winery was founded by four men, two from France and two from Quebec. These men purchased a 20-hectare farm not far from Côtes d’Ardoise and their winery is now the largest in Quebec, producing over 160,000 bottles of wine annually. Currently, there are over 100 wineries in Quebec, though there appears to be some contradictory information online, with a few sources claiming that there are only around 50 or so wineries. Nonetheless, Quebec has a small wine industry which continues to grow each year.

One of the biggest challenges facing Quebec wineries is the cold weather. It makes it difficult to grow vinifera grapes, and the frost can decimate much of your vineyard. If you lose 50% of your crop or more in a given year, that certainly makes it more difficult to turn a profit. That risk tends to lead to higher prices for vinifera wines, which can make them less of a value. Hybrid grapes, which can be much hardier, generally grow better in this climate yet some feel they don't possess a sufficient cachet, and won't put Quebec on a competitive level with the rest of the world. There is some validity to that argument as a significant number of wine lovers seem to have a prejudice against wines made from hybrid grapes. They shouldn't possess that prejudice, but we cannot deny it exists. If vinifera grapes don't grow well though, what should the wineries do?

This division of opinion as to what grapes should be planted in Quebec seems to extend to a greater division over many other issues. There are two winery organizations in Quebec, the older Association des Vignerons du Québec (AVQ) and the newer Vignerons Indépendants du Québec (VIQ). For a small wine industry, to have two such organizations working at cross purposes, may not be beneficial. At TasteCamp, we heard little about these organizations though we did hear about some of the differing opinions of winery owners and winemakers. These organizations should work together to benefit the entire Quebec wine industry, helping its growth.

Based on my own tasting experiences with the wines of Quebec, I felt that, in general, the white wines and ice wines were of better quality than the red wines. Some of my favorite wines were also made from hybrid grapes. None of that means they cannot make good red wines in Quebec, but I think it is going to take more time and experimentation to increase the overall quality of the reds. Due to the risks of the weather, price is going to be an important factor, meaning you might not find many value vinifera wines. One finds much passion in the winery owners and wine makers, pioneers who are working hard to produce wine in a less than ideal climate. Improvements in the Quebec wine industry will continue to come.

Located along the St. Lawrence River, our first winery visit was to Vignobles Carone, owned by Anthony Carone. The winery was established in 1997 by Anthony's father and originally grew only hybrid grapes, as that was all that was available. However, his father wanted to experiment with vinifera and starting bringing home grape vines from Italy in his luggage. Would you have ever imagined that anyone in Quebec would grow Italian grapes like Sangiovese and Nebbiolo?

Anthony, pictured above, has been following in his father's footsteps. The vineyard consists of 8 hectares which are broken into 3 lots and possesses 25-30K vines. Though they still grow some hybrids, such as Marquette and Frotenac, they have been slowly, taking baby steps, replacing their hybrids with vinifera such as Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, and Sangiovese. In addition, Anthony has chosen to only produce red wines and his annual production is roughly 25K liters.

On his blog, Anthony has stated the reason for why he embraces vinifera. "I have always been an advocate that nature will always do a better job of creating new grape varieties than man. Hybrids are a creation of man and while useful in allowing the range of viticulture to be extended where natural varieties might not succeed, by definition this does not produce great wine." He also believes that "Hybrids are like Gerber’s baby food. It was fine for a while, but now the consumer wants and expects more."

Anthony keeps the vinifera vines low to the ground to provide them better protection from frost damage though that is not always successful. This year, they were devastated by a terrible black frost, which was worse than anything else they had sustained previously. There were two weeks of extremely hot temperatures which caused everything to bud early. Then the black frost arrived and Anthony lost 50-75% of his grapes, including about 75% of his Pinot Noir. How do you continue after such a catastrophic loss? For Anthony though, there was no question. He would continue, no matter how deep the loss. He has chosen a formidable challenge and his passion drives him despite adversity.

About 75%-85% of the vineyard operations, like pruning, are mechanized and Anthony owns a number of specialized tractors.

Anthony owns a two ton hydraulic press, which was originally designed for ice wine though works with red wines too. He uses both French and American oak barrels, usually a year old, and rotates them every three years. To produce white wines, Anthony would need different equipment, and he thinks reds are more interesting anyways.

I tasted four of the Carone wines and overall they were good, though I didn't find any of them especially impressive. They show promise and it would be interesting to see how the winery develops during the next five years.

The NV Rosso Classico ($18), a blend of Frontenac, Landot Noir, Landal Noir, and Cabernet Severyni, spent about three months in new American oak and has an alcohol content of 12.5%. This wine accounts for about 20% of their production and was a creation of Anthony's father. It was fruity and pleasant, though a bit simple, with a nice element of herbs and spice on the finish and hints of oak. An easy drinking wine, this would be a good burger or pizza wine.

The 2011 Venice Cabernet Severyni ($24), a blend of 90% Cabernet Severyni and 10% Frontenac, has an alcohol content of 13%. Anthony's father planted the Severyni because it reminded him of Barolo. This wine had some volatile acidity and tasted a bit unripe, a strong green aspect to it. The aroma seemed a bit chemical though the taste had more raspberry and spice notes. I would like to have tasted some other vintages to see if this wine was more an exception or not.

The 2010 Venice Pinot Noir ($35), a blend off 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Landot Noir, has an alcohol content of 12.5%. Anthony was the first producer of Pinot Noir in Quebec and loves growing the grape because it is such a challenge. In 2010, he produced about 2500 bottles. He blends in other grapes for more complexity, a greater bouquet and greater fruitiness. I found thus wine to have an interesting nose of herbs and spice, and on the palate those remained prominent, though nice red fruit tastes also came though. It was smooth and pleasant, with moderate complexity. If this were less expensive, I would more strongly recommend it.

The 2009 Double Barrel ($55), a blend of 92% Cabernet Severyni and 8% Sangiovese, has an alcohol content of 14.5% and only 1000 bottles were produced. A special yeast, imported from Italy, is used in fermentation. Its oak aging is more unique in that the wine is first aged in American oak for a year and then it is transferred into French oak for another four months. This wine avoided the negative aspects of the Venice Severyni, and presented lots of compelling fruit flavors up front with spicy edge on its finish. Its tannins were mild and the finish was relatively long and pleasant. This was a good wine, but I think it is pricey for what it delivers compared to similarly priced wines.

To Be Continued...

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Adrian Bridge, Fladgate & How Port Facilitates Conversation

"Port is the oil of good conversation."
--Adrian Bridge

After dinner, when people wish to relax and mellow out, is probably the most common time for Port to be enjoyed. Once it might have been just a group of men, ensconced in a library or study, smoking cigars and drinking Port while they discussed world events, as well as more personal matters. That probably still happens in some places however the general nature of Port consumers has changed, and both men and women now enjoy a glass of Port.

Sipping Port often accompanies good conversation, maybe a bit less inhibited than what would have occurred earlier at dinner. People might fear to discuss topics such as politics and sex over their apertifs, but at the end of the night, with a strong glass of Port, the walls start dropping. Few topics remain taboo and people are more apt to let their hair down, to be more willing to discuss anything. In that respect, it reminds me of an ancient Greek symposium.

Adrian Bridge, the CEO of the Fladgate Partnership, is one of the most important men in the Port industry and he was in Boston last week. I had the opportunity to dine with him and sip some Ports at The Top of the Hub. It was an enjoyable and informative evening, providing a glimpse into the Port industry as well as a deeper understanding of the man himself.

Adrian was born in Belleville, Ontario in 1963 and twenty years later, in 1983, he was commissioned into the 1st Queen’s Dragoon Guards. After serving in the military for five years, he took a much quieter position at an investment bank. However, in 1994, his career would take another drastic change, and he would embrace the world of Port.

Back in 1982, Adrian met his wife, Natasha, who is the daughter of Alistair Robertson, the owner and chairman of the Fladgate Partnership. Eventually, in 1994, Alistair asked Adrian to enter the family business so Natasha and he moved to Portugal. In 2000, Adrian became the Managing Director of the Taylor Fonseca Port Group which soon grew with the purchase of Croft Port and Delaforce Port in 2001. The company became reorganized as the Fladgate Partnership, with Adrian as its CEO. Natasha also plays a significant role in the company as the Chief Blender.

Adrian is not resting on his laurels and seems perpetually busy with new endeavors. For example, he created a new style of Port, Croft Pink, and other producers have since followed suit, producing their own pink Ports. In 2010, he opened a new luxury hotel, The Yeatman, which has already earned numerous awards for everything from their wine cellar to their spa. The photos on their website show an absolutely gorgeous hotel and the amenities include a Michelin star restaurant, a huge wine cellar concentrating on Portuguese wines, a compelling spa, and much more.

Their wine cellar includes over 1100 different Portuguese wines and I have reviewed their 2012 Winter Wine Edition, a list of 82 Portuguese wines that are available by the glass, priced from 5-100 Euros. Not many places have that many wines available by the glass. It is a fascinating list, broken down into interesting categories such as "The Groundbreakers" and "The Irreverants." Sparkling wines, Whites, Reds, Rosé, Port, Madeira, and Dessert wines. It is also cool that the hotel does not sell only Fladgate Partnership Ports, but also sells their competitors' Ports.

Though it might seem Adrian is a workaholic, he makes time to engage in one of his other passions, mountain climbing. That is a challenging pastime, and Adrian often brings Port with him to enjoy once he reaches the summit. He has even climbed a mountain in Antarctica, toasting the completion with Port, though his biggest worry had been the extreme cold freezing the Port so he needed to boost the alcohol so it could survive the harsh conditions.

In the U.S., the Fladgate Partnership dominates the Port market, accounting for about 28% of Port sales. Their Port shipments to the U.S. rose 11% in 2011 and partial numbers for 2012, through August, indicate another 5% increase. Aged Tawny Ports have seen very strong growth, especially to restaurants, as they seem to be an easier sell to patrons rather than Vintage Port. Port sales to restaurant have generally remained steady each month, indicating little seasonal variation. However, Port remains a niche beverage, one which many more people need to drink and explore.

Though overall, the Port industry has seen some numerical decreases, they have largely affected only the cheap, bulk Ports. The amount of quality Port has actually been increasing, though Adrian believes the Port business could still survive even without Vintage Port. While high quality vintage Bordeaux and Burgundy is made every year, Fladgate only produces Vintage Port approximately three times a decade. It is the fine wine collectors, those who collect Bordeaux and Burgundy, who purchase much of the Vintage Port as they are the ones willing to lay down their wines for years. In addition, the amount of Vintage Port is minuscule when you compare it to the amount of high-end Bordeaux and Burgundy that is produced.

Adrian especially noted a significant difference between Bordeaux/Burgundy and Port, summing up his position as "No fruit, no wine." Good Port, even Vintage, should still present a strong fruit component even when it is young. Sometimes though, when you have a young Bordeaux or Burgundy, those which are intended to be aged for a long time, they present very little, if any fruit. You are told you must wait to drink them, that they must be properly aged before they are drinkable. Adrian does not agree that is the way wine should be. All such wines should still present fruit, even at a young age.

What differentiates Fladgate Partnerhship Ports from other Port companies? There are a few different reasons and they can be significant. First, there is a different mindset at Fladgate, where they desire to produce Vintage Port from every grape. Thus, there is a careful attention to detail, a concern to treat each vineyard as if it were special. Some other companies view certain vineyards and grapes as only for their cheap, low quality Ports. And that may very well be reflected in how they treat such matters, never seeking to better the grapes, vineyards and Port.

Second, only about 1% of Port production is still done using the traditional practice of foot treading grapes in stone lagares. Of that 1%, about 60% of it is done by the Fladgate companies, and about 20% of their total production uses foot treading. All of their Vintage Port, about 5000 cases, is produced with foot treading. As they foot tread around 20,000 cases in total, some of that will end up in their nonvintage Ports.

They conduct the foot treading in six different ways, despite the fact it is very labor intensive and more costly.   Tests were conducted with mechanical treaders but they ultimately determined that foot treading worked best. They do not fully understand the reasons why foot treading works so well, and if they did, maybe they could replicate it. As long as it produces superior quality Port, they will continue this practice.

Third, an important element, often overlooked, in the production of port is the neutral spirit used to fortify it. Consider that 20% of a Port bottle consists of that spirit so it is obviously a significant factor. If you use cheap spirits in your Port, the quality of the Port can degrade with time, and sometimes quickly. Fladgate now acquires their spirit from a company in Bordeaux, a high quality and expensive spirit, but which they feel is essential for the quality of their Ports. Any item is only as good as the quality of its essential ingredients so that using a high quality spirit is warranted.

One of the biggest current challenges for Port producers has to do with spirits. Back in 2008, the European Union passed wine reforms which led to the phasing out of distillation subsidies. About 200,000 hectares of vineyards were pulled up in response. Without the subsidies, there has been a shortage of these neutral spirits and subsequently the cost has increased, and now may be close to 4 Euros per liter. Who will then pay for those increased costs?  It would be tough to place that cost on the shoulders of consumers, especially for the cheaper Ports. The higher end Ports are more capable of increasing prices without a significant reaction from consumers. Adrian seems hopeful that the shortage will peak in 2013, topping out the price increases.

As many wine regions seem to be concerned about climate change, I asked Adrian about how it affected Fladgate, if at all. Adrian doesn't believe it has much impact in Portugal, especially as Portugal is already a hot region. If anything, climate change might cause the weather to be a bit more unpredictable. Fladgate has not instituted any specific changes to their usual practices in response to concerns about climate change.

Their irrigation issues have more to do with cost than climate change. He explained that the Douro is actually a series of lakes and not a river. Runoff accumulates in these lakes so it is imperative to use less chemicals in the vineyards, so as to not pollute the lakes. In addition, all of those chemicals are expensive, another good reason not to use them. Adrian hopes to convince other producers to use less chemicals as well, though he wants to lead by example rather than just preach to his colleagues and competitors.

What does Fladgate plan for the future? Adrian indicated that they have no current plans to produce Douro table wines unlike many of their competitors. As they still see growth in high quality Port, they feel their efforts are best directed to continue producing great Port. He wouldn't rule out the possibility that could change one day, but it won't occur in the near future. They are continuing to develop new markets, such as in places like South Africa and parts of South America. On a smaller note, they have opened a new wine store and began creating wine clubs. Growth is coming in many different aspects of their business. In addition, as the Port industry consolidates, there is the possibility Fladgate could acquire more Port companies.

A question on the mind of many Port lovers is whether Fladgate will declare 2011 to be a Vintage or not. That decision has not yet been made though there is some optimism that it will be declared as a Vintage. Even if so, it is unsure how much Vintage Port would be produced, and it is likely to be a smaller amount than previous vintages.

On a more personal level, I asked Adrian about his usual Port consumption at home. Though he does not drink Port every evening, it is a regular element of his life and the most common Port he drinks at home is the Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. That is certainly an excellent choice, one that would appeal to many Port lovers, and would probably convince many others to start enjoying Port. When Adrian holds parties at his home, he breaks out the Vintage Port, usually something from the 1960s or 1970s. So how do you get on his invite list?

After dinner, we tasted through five Ports, including three 2009 Vintage Ports (Croft, Fonseca & Taylor Fladgate), a 2007 Taylor Fladgate LBV and a Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. The 2009 Vintage Ports were fascinating, as each was noticeably different. The Croft was bright and fruity while the Taylor was a bit more closed, though still with subdued fruit notes. The Fonseca impressed, a nice balance of fruit and spice, with a complex and seductive character. These are capable of being enjoyed now, though you might derive even greater pleasure after these have been allowed to age for a time. The 2007 LBV was pleasant, fresh and smooth, with tasty fruit. However, the winner was easily the 20 Year Old, a sublime Port which I have enjoyed greatly on prior occasions.

Grab a bottle of Port, gather together some friends and enjoy the conversation that flows.

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Friday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a special Friday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. In this edition, I am also highlighting several Valentine's Day options.
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1) On February 6, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will prepare to embrace the annual day of love early with their first Legal Holiday of 2013: Valentine’s Day. At this book signing and tasting, those who love food will especially enjoy the special guest for the evening, Scott Haas, a food writer and clinical psychologist who captures all the heat and hunger of a great restaurant kitchen in his new book, Back of the House. The book reveals the inner-life of a chef, what it takes to make food people crave and how to achieve greatness in a world that demands more than passion and a sharp set of knives. Haas will read excerpts and personalize copies of his book which each guest will receive a complimentary coopy.

Three-course pairing menu:

FIRST COURSE
Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche (blood orange & aji amarillo; jicama sticks and yuca chips)
Manawa Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
SECOND COURSE
Mesquite Grilled Tuna Steak (chanterelles & ancho farro salad, balsamic & tamarind glaze)
Tarima Mourvedre, Alicante, Spain
DESSERT COURSE
Strawberries "Tuxedo" Parfait (dark and white chocolate, Marcona almond brittle)
Rosa Regale Brachetto d'Acqui, Piedmont, Italy

Cost: $49 per person (includes book, tax and gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

2) Legal Harborside will host a Valentine’s Day celebration on February 14 by exclusively featuring a customizable three-course menu specially designed for the occasion by executive chefs Richard Vellante and Robert Fathman. Guests will indulge in this chef’s tasting menu on the second floor of Legal Sea Foods’ flagship location while overlooking the picturesque Boston Harbor:

FIRST COURSE
-choice of-
Fire Licked Geoduck Clam (Juicy Melons, Yuzu, Poppy & Chorizo Dust)
Hearts of Palm (Beets, Cherries, Chevre, Candied Pistachio)
Foie Gras (Ménage a Trois, Seared, Torchon & Soup)
French Kiss Oysters (Crème Fraiche, Paddlefish Caviar)
Lobster Soup (Puff Pastry & Sherry)
Cape Scallop Ceviche (Lime, Thai Basil, Lemongrass, Pink Peppercorn)
SECOND COURSE
-choice of-
Slow Roasted Halibut (Toasted Wheat Berry Salad, Dried Cranberries, Rose Water & Clementine Vinaigrette)
Roasted Rack of Lamb (Black Kale, Fingerling Potatoes, Amarone Cherry Gastrique)
Chateaubriand (For Two) (Cream Spinach, Truffled French Fries, Béarnaise & Mustard Sauce)
Lobster Thermador (Roasted New Potatoes & Root Vegetables, Tarragon Butter)
Sautéed Dover Sole (Yukon Gold Potatoes, Capers, Lemon & Garlic)
DESSERT COURSE
-choice of-
Chocolate Soufflé For Two (Baked to Order)
Raspberry Crème Brûlée
Port Poached Pear (Chinese 5 Spice Mousse)
Chocolate Peanut Caramel Torte (Toasted Marshmallow Ice Cream)

COST: $75 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
To make reservations, please call: 617-477-2900

3) Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar will celebrate the romance of Valentine’s Day with four evenings of decadent specials and a unique Valentine gift for couples dining on Thursday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday, February 14-17. To enrich the occasion, Executive Chef Russell Skall has created two enticing entrees, perfect for Valentine’s dinner that will be available in addition to Fleming’s popular a la carte menu.

“Valentine’s Day is always such a special celebration for our guests,” remarked Chef Skall. “We created a unique menu to make the evening a truly memorable one. There is nothing more romantic then savoring the pleasures of a delicious dinner and wine with someone you love.”

Wine Director Maeve Pesquera has crafted two seductive cocktails for the holiday: the Venetian Valentine is a romantic sparkler with Quady Elysium, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur and Mionetto Prosecco for $10.95; and the Mint To Be is prepared with Gentleman Jack Tennessee Whiskey, Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur, POM Wonderful® juice with fresh mint garnish, served on the rocks for $11.95.

To give guests another reason to celebrate, Fleming’s is offering each couple dining February 14th through February 17th a complimentary $25 Fleming’s Dining Card* to use toward a future rendezvous with their sweetheart. Reservations are recommended and may be made by visiting www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com.

The Valentine’s Celebration Menu offers:
Heirloom Tomato & Housemade Burrata (Baby red and golden beets, arugula, lemon-pistachio vinaigrette)
Citrus Marinated Salmon Tartare (Capers, parsley, Meyer lemon oil, with pickled cucumber, smoked jalapeño aioli, served with herbed crostini)
Choice of Entrée:
Roasted Lobster Tail ($69.95) (Split in the shell, vanilla lemon butter, mac and cheese with crispy pancetta)
Chateaubriand with Crab Glaçage ($69.95)(Center cut tenderloin, creamy jumbo lump crab, madeira sauce, asparagus spears)
Dessert:
Chocolate Budino ($9.95)(Rich chocolate tartlet, salted mascarpone whipped cream, olive oil drizzle and cocoa nibs)

*$25 Valentine’s Card offer is for visits occurring on 2/14/13, 2/15/13, 2/16/13 and 2/17/13 only. Limit one Valentine’s Card per couple. Valentine’s Card will be delivered at the end of the dinner and will be valid through March 30, 2013.

4) Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro is celebrating Valentine's Day on February 14, from 5:30pm-11pm, with a prix fixe dinner presented at the award-winning Bistro for $68 per person (optional wine pairing for an additional $32). Please call 617-723-7575 for reservations.

AMUSE BOUCHE
Woodbury’s Wellfleet Oyster with Paddlefish and Fennel Caviar.
STARTERS
Wild Mushroom Velouté with Madeira and Taleggio
Butter Lettuce Salad with Hearts of Palm, Grapefruit, Black Truffle and Banyuls Vinaigrette
Oxtail Ravioli with Pea Tendrils, Black Pepper Ricotta, Brown Butter and Sage
Rohan Duck Terrine with Violet Mustard, Baguette and House Pickles
Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche with Persimmon, Radish and Meyer Lemon
ENTRÉES
Maryland Striped Bass with Wild Mushroom Ragout, Mille-feuille and Beurre Rouge
Faroe Island Salmon with Orange Scented Beets, Fennel and Quinoa
Rohan Duck Breast with Heirloom Beans and Braised Winter Greens
Grass Fed Sirloin with Fingerling and Short Rib Ragout, Caramelized Carrots and Red Wine Jus
Carnaroli Risotto with Brussels Sprouts, Black Truffle and Parmesan Tuile
DESSERTS
Chocolate Pot De Crème with Apricot, Brioche and Fleur De Sel
Lemon Chiffon Cake with Frozen Lemon Curd
Vanilla Crème Brulée
Buttermilk Panna Cotta with chocolate covered strawberries and Mint Ice Cream

5) The fourth season of the Wayland Winter Farmers’ Market has begun. The Market runs weekly on Saturdays from 10am-2pm through March 9 at Russell's Garden Center, 397 Boston Post Road (Route 20), Wayland. Over 40 food vendors attend weekly, bringing fresh vegetables, cheese, meat, maple products, honey, eggs, fish, jam, pickles, pasta and other specialty foods. Come enjoy truly gourmet breakfast and lunch, while sitting in a lush, warm greenhouse.

On Saturday January 26, they will have their 3rd Annual Massachusetts Farm Wineries Day. Legislation passed in August 2010 allows both tasting and sales (by the bottle) of wine produced from farm wineries within our state at farmers' markets and other agricultural events. There will be nine Massachusetts farm wineries participating in this event: Alfalfa Farm Winery (Topsfield),  Coastal Vineyards (S.Dartmouth),  Green River Ambrosia Meadery (Greenfield),  Mill River Winery (Rowley),  Obadiah McIntyre Farm Winery (Charlton),  Running Brook Vineyards & Winery (N.Dartmouth),  Still River Winery (Harvard),  Turtle Creek Winery (Lincoln), and Westport Rivers Winery (Westport).

6) This February, The Blue Room crew cures the Monday night blues with a badass blend of Fratelli Branca Italian bitters, Bully Boy American Straight Whiskey and Spaghetti Western flicks. The weekly events mimic Spaghetti Western film’s blend of all things Italian and American with a liquid mix of Italian amari and whiskey from the US of A.

The Blue Room Chef Robert Grant continues the tribute with signature noshes (inspired by this Italian-American marriage), while guest bartenders from across the hub craft dueling specialty cocktails during weekly screenings of Sergio Leone’s Dollars Trilogy.

Films and guest mixologists are as follows:
February 4: A Fistful of Dollars with bartenders John Henderson (Scholars) and Tyler Wang (No.9 Park)
February 11: For a Few Dollars More with bartenders Katie Emmerson (The Hawthorne) and Fred Yarm (Cocktail Virgin Slut)
February 18: The Good the Bad and the Ugly with bartenders Noon Inthasuwan (Moksa) and Sam Treadway (Backbar)
February 25: Once Upon a Time in the West with bartenders Evan Harrison (Brick & Mortar) and Ted Kilpatrick (No. 9 Park)

COST: Cocktails and bar bites served à la carte for $9-$13
WHEN: Every Monday night in February from 9:00 PM to 1:00 AM

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Rant: Half-Bottle Failure

The wine industry has failed with the half-bottle. 

Most wine stores and restaurants stock few, if any, half-bottles of wine. Most wineries do not produce half-bottles of their wine. I bet many of my readers have not purchased a half-bottle of wine within the last six months. I don't think I have bought a half-bottle of wine in the last year. I don't understand the reasons for this failure of wine stores, restaurant and wineries as it would seem logical that half-bottles should be far more popular.

Japanese Sake is often available in half-bottles, usually 300-350ml, and a number of stores even carry more half-bottles than they do full sized ones. Sake producers seem to understand the advantages of half-bottles and thus capitalize on that opportunity. Spirits have long been available in smaller bottles, even as small as the nip bottles which usually contain a little less than 2 ounces. All of these small bottles of spirits are very popular, and once again, spirit producers perceive the advantages of small-sized bottles and have capitalized on it. So why has the wine industry failed in this regard?

There are plenty of individuals who purchase a 750ml bottle of wine, though they will be the only one drinking it. They might only want a glass or two with dinner, and that bottle is too big for them so they have to decide how best to preserve their wine. It will probably only last a few days so they will need to drink the rest of it soon enough. Such people would probably prefer to buy a half-bottle and not worry about wine preservation. Half-bottles would also be a less expensive way for a person to try a wine rather than buying a full 750ml bottle.

The size of the bottle affects the aging of the wine but as most wine is consumed within 48 hours of purchase,   that won't come into play most of the time. Consumers are primed for half-bottles with Sake and spirits, so why aren't wineries trying to fill that desire? It seems a failed opportunity which a clever winery could use to major advantage. Restaurants, which serve wine by the glass, worry about wine preservation yet those problems would be much less if they carried more half-bottles. So why aren't they doing so?

Wine industry, wake up and start thinking small.

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