Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) With the best Spanish wine list in the Boston area, Taberna de Haro now carries 325 wines, including 45 Sherries. And now they are holding the "The Quintessential Wine Tasting" on Wednesday, September 18, at 7pm. Kerin Auth of Olé Imports will come and lead a tasting of seven different wines.

Kerin has made over 30 trips to Spain and even lived in Sevilla for a year. During the last seven years of her career, she owned and operated Tinto Fino, a wine shop in Manhattan dedicated to selling Spanish wines exclusively. Now shuttered, I was a big fan of that wine shop. Kerin represents a portfolio within the company called "Península" which has a highly allocated selection of wines. That simply means "rare and special." Only 52 establishments around the country are allowed to buy wine from this unique collection, and Taberna de Haro is one of them.

Chef Hansen calls this "Quintessential" because you will experience some of Spain's most important grapes - in their very purest form. All the winemakers in this portfolio are crazily committed to a clarity of expression, and they see no boundaries in attaining this. The infamous Raul Perez is represented here, as is Antonio Barbadillo of Sanlucar de Barrameda (Jerez) fame. Here is the list of wines we'll taste and there will likely be an extra surprise wine or two.

Manzanilla AB Sacristía (palomino from Sanlucar de Barrameda)
Totus Tuus Reserve Brut Cava (xarel-lo, macabeu, parellada chardonnay, pinot noir from Penedés)
Leirana Albariño 2011 (albariño from Rias Baixas)
Tampesta Finca de los Vientos 2010 (prieto picudo from Tierra de Leon)
La Vizcarra 2010 (tempranillo or tinto fino from Ribera del Duero)
La Vitoriana (mencia from Bierzo)
Elo (monastrell from Yecla

The cost is $50 per person (plus tax & gratuity) and Chef Hansen is working on the menu, It will include food pairings both classic and innovative. For Reservations, email deborah@tabernaboston.com or call 617-277-8272.

2) Tavolo, in Dorchester, is hosting its next Cheap Flights to Italy on Monday, September 9, for only $25 per person. You will receive 3 wines paired with 3 regional tastings, and this installment's country is Sardinia,

The Menu is:
First Glass: 2011 Botromagno, Gravina Greco/Malvasia Blend
Paired with Seafood First Bite: Artisan Bread & tomato stuffed Squid
Second Glass: 2010 Argiolas, Cannonau Di Sardegna, which has great body
Paired with Lamb Second Bite: Braised Lamb with Fettuccine & Sheep's Milk Ricotta
Last Glass: 2011 Vallebelbo, Moscato d' Asti, a sweet indulgent treat to finish.
Last Bite: Traditional Sardinian Almond Cookie

3) On Thursday, September 19, The Beehive gets undressed during Diamonds and Pearls, a sultry burlesque performance in partnership with Moët & Chandon and Domaine Chandon. From 9pm-1am, one of New York City’s busiest burlesque performers Calamity Chang, also known as “The Asian Sexsation,” will be joined by the “Go-Go Pussycat,” Lil’ Steph and quintessential pin-up queen Bettina May for a mid-week break proving that you don’t have to be dressed to impress.

The tantalizing beauties will take the stage at 9pm as DEFTrio, a groovin’ jazz trio heats up The Beehive for a night of classic burlesque. Guests are encouraged to make it “dinner and a show” as Executive Chef Rebecca Newell serves her eclectic fare and delicious dishes from The Beehive’s menu from 5pm-2am. All evening show-goers can sip on bubbly from sponsors Moët & Chandon and Domaine Chandon, and toast the night out with a special champagne cocktail!

To make reservations for dinner and a show, please call (617) 423-0069

4) It is time for the 8th annual Heirloom Tomato Festival at Bistro 5 in Medford. From September 10-28, you can enjoy a Special 3 or 5 Course Tasting Menu, with or without wine pairings, which features a variety of heirloom tomatoes. I attended last year's Tomato dinner and it was certainly a delicious and compelling event. I hope to attend again this year and strongly urge my readers to go as well.

Menu
--Pappa al Pomodoro (Bread-Tomato soup and Lardo Crostini)
2012 Le Salse, Verdicchio, Metalica
--Fried Green Tomatoes (Green Zebra, Burrata and Black Olive "Soil")
2011 Cantina Santa Maria La Palma, Vermentino Aragosta, Sardegna
--Black Cavatelli (Pineapple Tomato and Lobster)
2011 Domaine Brazilier, Coteaux du Vendomois
--Rohan Duck (Smoked Speckled Roman Tomato and Thai Basil Creme Brulee, Sweet and Sour Butternut Squash and Pickled Ginger
2010 Gran Sasso, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
--Tomatina (Organic Peach Tomato Mousse, Basil Yogurt Gelato, Vanilla Bean Crème Anglaise and Sweet Pistachio Pesto)
2010 Elio Perrone 'Bigarò', Brachetto d'Aqui

Tasting Menu: Five Course: $75 per person; Three Course: $49 per person
Wine Pairing: Five Course: $25 per person; Three Course: $20 per person

Reservations available online or by phone 781-395-7464

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Bodegas Beronia: 40 Years, With Oak

"To make a great Rioja, one must master the use of oak."
---Christopher Canale-Parola

For over eight years, I've been part of a group of friends who meet weekly and share wine. These are the same guys who I once worked together with on the Real World Winers blog, which I contributed to before the start of The Passionate Foodie blog. There was a love of Spanish wines from the beginning, and when we toast the evening every week, there is a hearty unison of "Rioja!"

One of the first Rioja wines that peaked my interest in Spanish wines was the Marqués de Riscal, and my first higher-end Spanish Rioja, the Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza Reserva, was stunning and made me seek out more higher-end Spanish wines. In 2007, on my second trip to Spain, I visited the Rioja region, stopping at several wineries and enjoying many excellent wines. It was a wonderful place, with such beauty and history, great people and tasty wines.

Last week, Rioja came to Brookline, bringing with it a great sense of history, a couple passionate people, and plenty of delicious wines, accompanied by compelling Spanish cuisine.

Chef Deborah Hansen, the owner of Taberna de Haro, a Spanish restaurant in Brookline, hosted a Rioja event with winemaker Matias Calleja of Bodegas Beronia and Christopher Canale-Parola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Gonzalez Byass and a former winemaker. I previously met Christopher at a recent Sherry tasting, and he was equally as knowledgeable and passionate this time.
The wines of Beronia are imported by The San Francisco Wine Exchange and distributed in Massachusetts by Bay State Wine & Spirits. You definitely should seek out the Beronia wines at your local wine shop.

Pictured here are Christopher Canale-Parola and Matias Calleja.

Back in the 3rd century BC, the region of Rioja was inhabited by a Celtic tribe known as the berones, and they referred to the region as Beronia. The winery chose this ancient term for their name. The winery itself, founded in La Rioja Alta, was established in 1973 by a gastronomic society which wished to produce their own wine. Thus, 2013 is their 40th anniversary and our tasting was partially a celebration of that achievement. At first, the winery only made Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, and found success in their efforts.

With their success, they desired to expand their business and found that Bodegas Gonzalez Byass also sought expansion. With a shared purpose, the twy came together in 1982 and it was then that Matias Calleja was hired. With parents who were growers, Matias has been involved in wine his entire life and has spent 31 years working at Beronia. Though he didn't speak much English, it was clear that this is more than a job to him, that it is a true passion and he couldn't see himself doing anything else.

Bodegas Beronia owns about 20 hectares of vineyards and controls another 850 hecatres, with 200 growers tending the grapes. Approximately 90% of their grapes are Tempranillo and they produce about 430,000 cases annually. They own around 29,500 American, French and mixed oak barrels, having conducted numerous experiments with oak use. They seek mastery of oak for their Rioja and are not afraid to experiment, to test various combinations. Their mixed oak barrels are made from American staves and French oak heads.

Matias has a simple wine making philosophy: "Always think of the consumer." He believes you must evolve with the consumer, though you shouldn't lose the typicity of Rioja. Currently, consumers want natural and healthy wines, and that is important to Beronia. They practice sustainable viticulture, desirous of being as healthy as possible, and are always working toward better sustainability. They also try to reduce wine making manipulation, preferring physical rather than chemical manipulations. Certainly very admirable traits.

Chef Deborah Hansen, who expertly paired our lunch with the wines, stated that "Rioja is like a beautiful woman" and is "soft and sexy." A beautiful woman, whether in simple jeans, a paint stained smock or an elegant dress, still retains her beauty and Rioja is the same. You can put it with anything you want, any type of food, and it still retains that beauty. Deborah is also a fierce Rioja traditionalist and believes that the oak should always remain in the background, and shouldn't dominate the wine.

As we assembled at Taberna de Haro, standing around chatting with each other, we sipped some 2012 Beronia Viura, made from 100% Viura. Crisp, clean and fruity, this was a tasty way to begin the evening. I enjoyed the fresh citrus and peach notes of the wine. A nice choice for summer, and a wine that would pair well with salads, seafood, and light chicken dishes.

Prior to having lunch, there was a tasting of a number of Beronia wines, and these were intriguing comparison tastings, a way to show the influence of oak on Rioja. I began with a comparison of three bottles of 2011 Tempranillo Reserva, which have not yet completed their aging. One wine was matured in French oak, another in American oak and the third in Mixed oak. There were marked differences, especially in the dominance of fruit versus spice, with the mixed oak providing a more balanced taste. This tasting was an excellent way to see how the extracted flavors from different oak treatments influence the same wine.

I then moved onto two other wines, a 2008 Tempranillo Reserva and the 2011 Tempranillo Elaboracion Especial. The Reserva was matured in mixed oak, and provided a nice, balanced taste with tasty red and black fruit flavors, and a spicy backbone. The smooth tannins complemented the lengthy finish, and this was a Rioja you would say is soft and sexy.

On the other hand, the Elaboracion Especial is a more unique wine, and definitely not a traditional Rioja product. It undergoes malolactic fermentation in the barrel and then is aged for about seven months on the lees in the barrel. American oak is used and the barrel toasting is crucial to the taste. The barrels are toasted at lower temperatures over a long time, about 180 degrees Celsius for 26 minutes. This makes the toast penetrate deeper into the barrel, providing more mocha flavors to the wine. This wine was developed based on a lengthy survey of consumer tastes. It is a melding of red fruit and licorice flavors, with mocha, and offers an alluring aroma coupled with a smooth, well balanced and compelling taste. This wine certainly appealed to me and I can see why it is so consumer friendly.

Finally, we ended the tasting with three aged Gran Reservas, from 1982, 1994 and 2006. The 1982 and 1994 wines were matured in American oak while the 2006 was matured in French oak. This was more of a comparison of aging rather than oak treatments, despite the difference in the 2006. Both the 1982 and 1994 were elegant wines, still with plenty of life within them, and presenting complex and compelling tastes. The 1994 was probably my favorite, presenting a bit more fruit flavors, as well as a touch more complexity. It is a wine, from an excellent vintage, that would impress any wine lover. The 2006 Gran Reserva was a much bolder wine, not as elegant, with more upfront spice and fruit. It would be interesting to taste that wine in ten years to see how it develops.

Our lunch began with Albondigas de bacalao, salt cod saffron balls, and Tostas de jamon, tomato toast w Spanish ham  The albondigas had a nice salty taste with a crunch to the outside, and creaminess inside. Quite addictive. And the toast and ham were also habit forming. The silky texture of the ham with the thicker texture of the bread, with some nice acidity from the tomato.

With this course, two wines were paired, including one of my favorites of the tasting. The 2010 Old Vines is 100% Tempranillo, from 40 year old vines, is matured for ten months in mixed oak. It was elegant and balanced, smooth and delicious, with a nice melange of fruit and spice. It was deceptively easy to drink, though possessed of intriguing complexity which would make you want to slowly savor a glass. It mesmerized me from the first taste and garners my highest recommendation.

The 2009 Crianza is a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo which has spent 12 months in mixed oak. This is the wine they produce in the biggest volume, and is is extremely popular in Spain. It is young and fruity (cherry, raspberry and licorice), with mild spice notes. An easy quaffer and a perfect wine for burgers, pizza or tapas.

The next course was Cogollos con confit de pato, gem lettuce hearts with house made duck confit, and Pate de conejo, house made truffled rabbit pâté. Fresh lettuce, savory duck, and an earthy pate combined for a compelling dish that paired very well with the Rioja. This dish would have gone very well with the Sherry we tasted recently too.

The next two wines included two that we already tasted, the 2008 Reserva and the 2006 Gran Reserva. The 2008 Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo 3% Graciano, and 7% Mazuelo, and the Tempranillo wines are 40-60 years old. It spent 18-22 months in mixed oak and two years in the bottle. The 2006 Gran Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo 5% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo, and the Tempranillo wines are 80-120 years old.. It spent 24 months in French oak and four years in the bottle.

Next up was Chuleta de cordero (lamb chop with fresh oregano allioli), Piquillos asados (roasted piquillo peppers) and Patatas fritas (French fries). This is a classic pairing, and the savory and tender lamb impressed me. The addition of the peppers and fries added some interesting textures and tastes. The Rioja rocked with this dish and it is easy to understand why it is such a classic.

The final wine of the evening was special, a 1973 Gran Reserva, which was the first wine produced by Beronia. It is classic Rioja, produced in a more old fashioned method, and is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Viura. Viura is a white grape and was once permitted in the making of red Rioja, but that is no longer the case. This was a sublime, complex and intriguing wine, just a pure stunner. The aroma seduced my nose while the taste tantalized my palate. It had strong acidity, lots of red fruit flavors, mild spice and hints of leather and chocolate. It is hard to do justice to this wine, which offers much to a wine lover.

We neded our meal with two tasty cheeses, Payoyo (sheep and goat's milk cheese from Andalucia)
and Guriezo (cow's milk cheese from Asturias), accompanied by Nueces con aceite y miel (walnuts with salt, Spanish olive oil, and honey). Deborah stated that sweeter Rioja pairs well with creamy cheeses. Amazing cheeses, it is always a pleasure to get to taste a new Spanish cheese, one creamy and the other more firm. French cheese may get far more press but Spanish cheeses are worthy of attention, presenting plenty of diversity, great taste and artisan farmers.

Taste and enjoy the wines of Beronia and I bet you'll start toasting a hearty "Rioja!"

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Gonzalez Byass & Taberna de Haro: Sherry Food Pairings

"Although it is indeed a rare pearl, the king of food pairings really exists, and it's fino sherry."
--Taste Buds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food With Wine by Francois Chartier

Too many people in the U.S. still believe that Sherry is primarily a dessert wine, and that is partially due to the fact that primarily sweet Sherry is imported into the U.S. However, dry Sherries are wonderful wines, and extremely food friendly. More people need to taste dry Sherry. Like Sake, many dry Sherries possess a prominent umami taste, contributing to its versatility with food. Sherries can also pair well with some foods which other wines have difficulty working with, such as asparagus.

I am a huge fan of Sherry and you can read more than two dozen of my articles at All About Sherry, from a History of the Sherry region to the Mystery of Palomino. Several of those articles discuss pairing Sherry with food, such as Sherry Food Pairings: More Bellota Please, Thanksgiving Wines? Consider Sherry or Saké, and Fino Sherry: The King of Food Pairings. Fortunately, in the Boston area, there are some restaurants which are promoting Sherry, helping to show their customers its versatility with food. This is great news for wine lovers willing to expand their horizons, to take a chance on something new to them.

Chef Deborah Hansen, the owner of Taberna de Haro, a Spanish restaurant in Brookline, is a huge Sherry fan and it is reflected in her restaurant. Taberna de Haro was also my Favorite Spanish Restaurant of 2012. One year ago, Deborah expanded her restaurant, essentially doubling it in size, and adding a very cool bar (pictured above). The restaurant carries over 40 different Sherries, and Deborah is planning on adding even more in the near future. This is a perfect place to experience the joys of Sherry, accompanied by compelling Spanish cuisine.    

Last week, Deborah (pictured above) hosted a special media Sherry event, presenting nine different Sherries from Bodegas Gonzalez Byass paired with various tapas selected by Deborah. The Sherries of Gonzalez Byass are imported by The San Francisco Wine Exchange and distributed in Massachusetts by Bay State Wine & Spirits. The tasting was led by Christopher Canale-Parola (pictured above), the Export Manager for Gonzalez Byass and a former winemaker. Christopher is young, knowledgeable and passionate and his love for Sherry is infectious. He is an excellent spokesperson to help introduce Sherry to a new generation of wine lovers.

Three years ago, I traveled to Spain, visiting Bodegas Gonzalez Byass, and you can read my article, Apostles & Thirsty Mice, for background on the winery and their wines. It was a fascinating visit, with plenty of delicious sherries. And thirsty mice who love sweet Sherry.

Our evening began with a glass of Tio Pepe Fino, which is made to be a richer style of Fino, and not as pungent or tart as other Finos. It is a more approachable of a Sherry, so is a great introductory Sherry for newcomers. It is dry, crisp and clean with hints of nuts and bread and possesses a fairly lengthy and pleasing finish.

Deborah feels that Fino pairs well with fried fish, and one of the dishes paired with this Sherry was Bienmesabe, small pieces of delicious, marinated fried haddock. The pairing worked very well and I could easily see having Fino this summer with fried clams. This Fino also works well with salty foods, and that was evidenced with the Gildas (skewered olive, boqueron & guindilla pepper) and Aceitunas (Spanish olives). Think Fino for oysters too!

We then moved onto two Amontillados, the Vina AB and Del Duque VORS. The Vina AB was dry and light, with delicious nutty notes. The Del Duque VORS is named after the Duke who, in 1835, sold the first barrels to the winery. I have raved about aged Sherries before, and a VORS Sherry must possess an average age of at least 30 years. This Amontillado didn't disappoint with a smooth, complex melange of flavors, from dark nuts to leather and caramel notes. It is compelling and alluring, a superb Sherry which is sure to seduce your palate.

Deborah stated that Amontillado is very food friendly and she likes pairing it with fish. So, we enjoyed it with Sepia a la plancha, griddled cuttlefish with garlic, Spanish olive oil and sherry vinegar. I have enjoyed Amontillado with seafood before and I agree that is it a very good combination. We also had a dish of Jamon serrano con esparragos asados, Spanish ham wrapped around roasted asparagus with a house made oregano mayonnaise. As I dislike bitter green veggies, I didn't eat the asparagus though everyone who did partake, raved about the pairing. Asparagus is a very difficult food pairing for most wines, but Amontillado seemed to work great.

Next up was an Oloroso and Palo Cortado, darker, more oxidized Sherries. The Oloroso Alfonso was rich and spicy, with flavors of caramel, nuts and a mild brininess. The Palo Cortado Apostles VORS is an exceptional Sherry, made from 87% Palomino and 13% Pedro Ximinez (PX). As Palo Cortado can sometimes be bitter, some wineries add a little PX for sweetness. With the Apostles, they age the wine for 12 years before adding the PX for the next 18 years. This is a hedonistic wine, smooth, complex and tantalizing. This is a Sherry to slowly savor with great friends.

Deborah mentioned that she likes bitter tastes with darker sherries, and loves pairing Oloroso Sherry with pate and poultry. With these two Sherries, Deborah prepared a Pate de pato con endibias, a duck pate with endive and a fig vinaigrette. The pate was amazing, and its rich, earthiness went very well with the two Sherries. The bitter endive was also intended to be complemented by the Sherry.

We continued with two more Oloroso Sherries, though both with a bit of sweetness. The Oloroso Solera 1847 is a blend of 75% Palomino and 25% PX, a concentrated, velvety wine with flavors of figs, raisins, and nuts. Its mild sweetness might remind you of some aged Ports. The Oloroso Matusalem VORS is a similar blend but it has an average age of at least 30 years. It is more complex, with deeper flavors of dried fruit, spice and leather. There is some sweetness but it is restrained, and the finish is lengthy and pleasing. Two more winners.

Deborah informed us that mushrooms is a classic Oloroso pairing and she also wanted to pair these Oloroso Sherries with the "pure animal of blood sausage."  Thus, we had Champinones rellenos de jamon (mushrooms stuffed with Spanish ham) and Morcilla a la plancha (griddled black sausage with roasted red peppers). The mushrooms were amazing, earthy and salty, and the blood sausage was tasty too, meaty and earthy. A superb course, I could have easily devoured a few more plates. Both Oloroso Sherries worked well with these dishes, and Deborah was spot on once again.

We ended the evening with two PX Sherries. The Vina Nectar PX is aged for about seven years, and had delicious flavors of caramel, figs, nuts and spice. The Noe PX VORS is aged for at least an average of 30 years, and its complex, sweet flavors tend more to raisins, coffee, spice, and cooked plums.

PX and blue cheese is a classic pairing, though Cabrales is usually used. Deborah though chose a Mitiblu cheese, a rich and creamy Spanish blue cheese, with dried apricots, walnuts, olive oil and honey. She did not add any bread, feeling it muddles the dish. It was pure creamy goodness with that tasty tang of blue which I love so much. Deborah also added that the best way to enjoy PX is often poured over ice cream. She even mentioned that bacon and PX work well together.

The evening provided more evidence of what I have said before, that Sherry is an excellent food wine and more people need to take a chance on placing it on their tables. Sample and taste some dry Sherries, from Fino to Palo Cortado, Manzanilla to Amontillado, and see what you have been missing.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The Barcelona Wine Bar, a new Spanish tapas restaurant in Brookline, has a number of upcoming cooking classes which you might find of interest.

April 29, 7pm: Tapas Party in an Hour 
It's possible to plan and prep for a tapas party in an hour! We have quick, easy, dynamic, inspired tapas that can be easily prepared for a group in about an hour. Executive Chef Steven Brand will show you how to make Chorizo and Figs, Boquerones, Mushrooms a la plancha, stuffed olives, dates with almonds wrapped in Serrano ham, and more.
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

May 27, 7pm: Spring Vegetable Classroom
Ramps, Morels, Favas, Peas, Asparagus. What's the home cook to do with the abundance of spring vegetables? How do we break through the doldrums of winter and come out inspired on the other side? Chef Steven has the answers.
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

June 24, 7pm: Pig Roast 101 
Are pig roasts a daunting project for the home cook? We think not! See how fun and easy this process can be for the next time you have a dinner party for 12 people. Once the pig is roasting, Chef Steve will show you some ideas for side dishes that will accompany the roast, even dessert!
Cost: $29 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

To make reservations for any of these classes, please call the restaurant at 617-264-8900.

2) On Sunday, May 5, from 5:30pm-1am, The Beehive is going south of the border in celebration of Cinco de Mayo with its annual event featuring live music and food & cocktail specials. Guests will be able to indulge in Mexican-inspired food specials from Chef Rebecca Newell while getting in the spirit with tequila cocktails made from Leyenda del Milagro Tequila, the finest small batch, artisanal mescal. A special performance by nine piece Mariachi band, Mariachi International, will keep the night going as they take over The Beehive’s stage from 6:30pm-12am. Mexican appetizers, entrées, desserts and tequila specials will be served all night long. In classic Beehive spirit there will be plenty of surprises and there is never a cover charge.

Reservations are highly recommended by calling 617-423-0069. Sombreros welcome!

3) On May 15, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Bethel Heights Winery. Known best for their Pinot Noir blends, Bethel Heights has been a family business since 1977 with its winery located in Oregon. Legal Sea Foods will team up with Bethel Heights’ winemaker, Ben Casteel, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with Casteel’s choices from their vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Curried Scallops, Brioche Toast Points, Cilantro Crème Fraîche
Oysters on the Half Shell, Chimichurri Vinaigrette
Shrimp Gazpacho Shooters, Micro Cilantro
Bethel Heights Pinot Gris, Oregon, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Seafood Trio Soup (Clams, Mussels, Shrimp, Coconut Lemongrass Broth, Curried Crostini)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Pinot Blanc, Eola-Amity Hills, 2011
SECOND COURSE
Pan Seared Halibut Fillet (Ratatouille Niçoise, Provencal Butter Sauce)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, 2011
THIRD COURSE
Wood Grilled Faroe Salmon (Wild Mushroom Croquette, Shallot Butter Sauce)
Bethel Heights “Estate” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2010
Bethel Heights “Flat Block” Estate Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2009
CHEESE COURSE
Morbier, Bijou, Camembert (Berry Compote, Buttery Toast Points)
Bethel Heights “Casteel Reserve” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2010

Cost: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

4) On April 29, at 6pm, Lucia Ristorante is presenting a four course wine dinner with a menu designed and executed by Chef Pino Maffeo. The wine is sponsored by United Liquors, a Massachusetts-based distributor focusing on wine and spirits, with guest speakers Claudio Farina of Remo Farina Winery, Don Allen of Banville and Jones Wine Co., and representatives from Pala Wines.

Chef Pino has handcrafted a menu of dishes to complement the authentic flavors of these wines. Chef will guide guests through the menu, which includes:

FIRST COURSE
Roasted Beets with a red wine vinaigrette and shaved Ricotta Salata
Pala I Fiore Vermentino
SECOND COURSE
Veal and ricotta cannelloni with wild mushrooms
Pala I Fiore cannonau
THIRD COURSE
Duck with roasted hazelnuts, brown butter
Remo Farina Valpolacella Riparsso
Remo Farina Amarone dell Valpolacella
FOURTH COURSE
Fresh berries with zambaglione

Cost: Tickets are $50 per person.
For reservations, please call 617-367-2353.

5) The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, will be sampling and celebrating the arrival of Rosé on Saturday, May 18, from 1pm-5pm, during the complimentary Rosés Are Here tasting. Guests can gain a new appreciation and explore this light and refreshing wine. Rosés that have finished last in the past when the wine market was flooded with White Zinfandel look-a-likes but, are quickly making a comeback. As the summer weather rapidly approaches, wineries are releasing their best rosés to the market for optimum enjoyment. Guests will not want to miss this chance to drink this chilled wine and discover the full spectrum of flavors that Rosés have to offer.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The City of Boston and Boston Common welcome Earl of Sandwich, created by the direct descendant of John Montagu, the Earl who invented the sandwich in 1762. Earl of Sandwich had a grand opening earlier this week on November 12.

“We are looking forward to the grand opening of our newest location on the historic Boston Common. As we celebrate 250 years of the sandwich, there is no better location for us than inside the country's oldest city park. It is an honor to be here,” said Robert Earl, chairman of Earl of Sandwich. “The success we’ve experienced at our other 22 locations has proven that the quality of our food and dining experience will bring guests back time and time again.”

In 1762, John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, came up with the ingenious idea of putting meat between two slices of bread. Now, 250 years later, the current 11th Earl and the rest of the Sandwich family remain passionate about the world’s most popular quick food that carries their name. Joining forces with entrepreneur Robert Earl, the first Earl of Sandwich restaurant opened in Orlando, FL at Downtown Disney in 2004.

All Earl of Sandwich locations bake fresh artisan bread with every hot sandwich order and meats are roasted daily using traditional family recipes. The new location will feature signature hot sandwiches including The Original 1762, a sandwich of freshly roasted beef, sharp cheddar and creamy horseradish sauce all on freshly baked artisan bread. Earl of Sandwich will also serve a line of wraps, fresh, hand-tossed salads, high-quality soups, a kid’s menu, and other side items. The restaurant will feature fresh, premise-baked treats – cookies, brownies, muffins, and bites, and Earl of Sandwich will offer a full array of cold beverages, including the delicious Earl’s Lemonade.

Beginning spring 2013, Earl of Sandwich’s breakfast menu, serving a choice of five made-to-order hot breakfast sandwiches, will be available from 8:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. Monday to Friday and 10 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday. The restaurant will immediately offer take-away service.

Earl of Sandwich will be open from 11AM to 4PM, seven days a week (normal hours will resume in spring 2013). There are 14 hot sandwiches available, all priced at $6.99:

2) Owner & Chef Brian Poe is bringing his fall bounty to The Tip Tap Room in Beacon Hill. Poe’s new autumnal infusions take his signature “tips” and “taps” concept to new seasonal heights.

For appetizers, Poe will now offer the following: Baked Brie (St. André brie, coriander-citrus roasted beets, warm mushroom vinaigrette - $11.75); Wild Mushrooms (sautéed with soy-chive vinaigrette, charred tomato tips - $9.75); Boar Meatballs (spicy ginger-cilantro-garlic broth - $13.95); and, a Mashed Sampler (a shareable tasting of horseradish, goat cheese, creamed corn, olive tapenade mashed potatoes - $5). These will add to Poe’s starter mainstays including the Rock Shrimp ($11.75), Potato with 7 Bacon Tips ($10.95) and Cheese & Cracklins ($10.75). Chef Poe also is now offering an Autumn Salad (maple-roasted pecans, roasted pumpkin, blue cheese crumbles, cranberry-sage vinaigrette - $9.95) and Grilled Baby Bok Choy (sauté of snap peas, Thai chilies, caramelized shiitakes, grilled tofu, sesame-soy vinaigrette - $10.95) in addition to the Romaine ($9.95) and Endive, Radicchio & Arugula ($9.95) salads. All salads come with option to add the “tips” of your choice ($6.50; swordfish –$7.50; wild game – $10).

The Tip Tap Room’s “tips” selections features five refreshed proteins and a vegetarian option. In adding to serving up daily wild game creations (including elk, kangaroo, yak, ostrich, pheasant and venison), Poe’s standard “tips” include the following: Turkey (sage-peppercorn marinade, cranberry fennel slaw, creamed corn potatoes - $11.95); Steak (house marinade, horseradish potatoes, cherry pepper, bordelaise - $14.75); Lamb (mint-shallot marinade, minted lamb glaze, goat cheese potatoes, watercress, tzatziki - $15.95); Chicken (lemon-lime-yuzu-herb marinade, rice, cucumber corn slaw - $12.95); Swordfish (artichoke, olive tomato, bell pepper-parsley salsa, tapenade potatoes, haricots verts, citrus-herb cream - $16.95); and, Tofu (grilled vegetables, tomato-basil salad, avocado, spinach - $12.75). Poe also griddles up three burgers available in Steak, Lamb and Turkey preparations.

For some seasonal “taps,” The Tip Tap Room’s kegs are brimming with selections like Harpoon Cider, Ipswich Oatmeal Stout and Sam Adams Octoberfest. Poe is also sure to bring in a rotating selection of seasonal specialty brews that rotate regularly from local breweries.

3) The Mandarin Oriental has recently launched The Parlor, a pop-up afternoon tea lounge. Located fireside in the Lobby Lounge, The Parlor will feature daily visits from the Holiday Treat Trolley, adorned with gingerbread man decoration kits for children, tea sandwiches, sweet confections, old-fashioned hot cocoa from Pastry Chef Oralia Perez, warm apple cider and signature hot toddies. The Parlor will be open from 2pm-6pm daily throughout the holiday season.

Some of the menu items include:
Rum Toddy: Bacardi oakheart rum, lemon juice, clove honey
Apple Toddy: Calvados v.s.o.p., lemon juice, cinnamon, clove honey
Scotch Toddy: Johnny Walker black scotch, domaine de canton
Bourbon Toddy: Makers Mark bourbon, lemon juice, clove honey
Tea Sandwiches 
--Foie gras mousse with spiced pear
--Turkey and cranberry
--Smoked duck with apple compote
--Scottish salmon, brown bread, cucumber
Oralia's Pastries 
--Eggnog creampuff
--Spiced pear tart
--Grasshopper verrine
--Homemade marshmallows
--Duo of macaroons

4) For the third consecutive year, hundreds of residents of Concord will line Walden Street here to welcome the Largest Wheel of Italian Cheese in the Western Hemisphere. A 400 lb. Crucolo cheese, from a tiny hamlet in the Trentino region of northern Italy, is expected to be at The Cheese Shop of Concord at 29 Walden Street, at 3:30pm on Thursday, December 6. Crucolo is a mild, rindless cow's milk cheese and I find it to be quite a delicious cheese.

The Crucolo will arrive in town via old fashioned horse drawn cart and The Crucolo Dancers, a high-spirited troupe of students from Concord Academy, will prance alongside the horse cart while brandishing large chunks of cheese … and generous free samples of canederli, an authentic northern Italian recipe made with crucolo.

Canederli are bread dumplings which often accompany meat stews and roasts. The word 'canederli', in fact, derives from the German or Austrian 'knödel.' Canederli are 'cucina povera' (cuisine of the poor), as they are made of inexpensive ingredients: stale bread moistened with milk and bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. However, the mixture is often enriched with cheese and speck or prosciutto. There are several variations of this regional dish, but the most common is with cheese. Once the dumpling are cooked, they’re either served "dry" with butter, or in a bowl of broth.

A proclamation will be presented, officially naming it Crucolo Day in The Commonwealth of Massachusetts. The public is invited to attend Crucolo Day and the event will occur rain or shine. You will also be able to have photos taken with the cheese. The crucolo sells for $19.99/lb and last year sold out in less than 14 days.

5) Piperi (pronounced pip-AIR’-ee) is the Greek word for peppercorns, but it's also a new, Mediterranean-inspired, fresh food concept from chef/co-owner Thomas John (former executive chef of Au Bon Pain and Mantra) opening Monday, December 3, on street level at One Beacon Street, in Government Center. Piperi's unique flatbread sandwiches, bountiful salads and mezze plates -- each bursting with nutrition and flavor -- will be made to order, served fast to take out or eat in.

You will find Piperi's find affordable choices listed on on a blackboard menu. First, choose from an array of grilled meats, vegetables or falafel. Next, choose one of several Mediterranean toppings and sauces. Ingredients are then heaped atop one's choice of signature Gozi™ flatbread or crisp greens, or served as a mezze plate with rice pilaf.

Gozi™, baked hourly on the premises, is a modern interpretation of gozleme, a traditional hand-rolled pastry from Turkey. The baking process creates circles in the dough that resemble eyes, or "göz" in Turkish. Gozi is similar to pita, but thinner and bolder flavored.

Piperi is committed to making socially responsible purchasing decisions; its produce is sourced from local grows whenever possible. They use only fresh, carefully chosen and complementary ingredients and spices. Antibiotic-free and humanely-raised chicken and sirloin, never frozen, will be marinated and grilled in small batches to retain their tenderness. Vegetables are roasted a la minute, to preserve color and flavor. Sauces and dressings will be made from scratch on the premises. Cooking is done with virgin olive oil, and with fresh herbs and spices.

Prices generally range from $6.50-$8.00, and they also serve breakfast sandwiches, priced $4.00-$4.50.

6) Chef Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro in Brookline has recently expanded her restaurant. I was there recently and the additional space is very cool with a nice bar. The restaurant now stocks even more Spanish wines, over 300, and has expanded their Sherry list to 27, with more to be added. That means they probably have the largest Sherry selection of any other local restaurant. Big kudos to Chef Hansen for her Sherry passion and promotion.

In addition, Taberna de Haro now offers a special Roasted Suckling Pig dinner on Tuesdays. They obtain the pigs, a Yorkshire-Hampshire cross breed, from a co-operative farm in upstate New York. The pigs weigh only about 16 lbs. and the roasting process takes over 4 hours, creating a crackling crispy skin. The dish costs only $25 per person and comes with potatoes and carrots roasted in the pan drippings. As there are only about 16 portions per pig, you should get there early to ensure you get a portion. If you have ever had roasted suckling pig in Spain, you know how delicious that dish can be. I will visit Taberna de Haro soon to check out this dish.

7) On December 11, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods will prepare to welcome the New Year with their final Legal Holiday of the season: Goodbye 2012, Hello 2013. Legal Sea Foods will dish and pour a three-course pairing menu filled with holiday cheer in Park Square’s 10,000 bottle wine cellar.

FIRST COURSE
Fried Oyster Fritter (ancho-tamarind aioli)
Simmonet-Fevbre Cremant de Bourgogne, NV
SECOND COURSE
Wood Grilled Swordfish (roasted quinoa salad, black mission fig compote) DeMorgenzon "DMZ" Shiraz, Stellenbosch, 2009
THIRD COURSE
Crispy Cinnamon Bunuelos (dulce de leche, vanilla ice cream)
Fonseca 10 Year Tawny Port

Cost: $40 per person (does not includes tax and gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

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Joto Sake: Sake Education & Three Kura

I have often stated that an important way to drive a greater passion for Sake in consumers is to better educate them about Sake. Importers can help in this regard by designing informative labels for the Sakes they bring into the U.S. As I have said before, a Sake bottle, wrapped in kanji characters, can be very intimidating, but if the back label is in English, in relatively plain language, then that can reduce the intimidation factor. It will also help wine store employees who don't know much about Sake but can read the back label and have a better idea about what is inside the bottle.

Joto Sake, a Sake importing company which represents six artisan breweries, is doing their part to promote Sake education. Joto, which is an ancient Japanese term meaning "excellence," tries to design more informational labels for their Sakes, to make them more accessible to the average consumer. That can be extremely helpful to a person who knows little about Sake. Joto recently held a Sake tasting, a kikishu, at Fugakyu, a Japanese restaurant in Brookline. Three Sake breweries, kura, were present, and about ten Sakes were poured.

The Saiya Brewing Company, founded in 1902, is located in the Akita prefecture which is in the northern Tohuku region of Japan. It is managed by Kotaro Saito, pictured above, and their philosophy is basically that the sake brews itself, the toji merely acting as a guide. Thus, they engage in very minimal intervention, often letting the sake develop as it desires. This is an interesting philosophy which mirrors the thoughts of a growing number of wine makers.

Most of the Sake they produce is genshu, undiluted sake, though it may not indicate it on the label. Interestingly, the alcohol content of their Sakes is only about 16%, which is unusual as most genshu is usually around 20% alcohol. Somehow their brewing process creates a lower alcohol sake that does not need to later be diluted with water.

More than half their Sake is also produced in the Yamahai method, in which lactic acid is not added to the yeast starter. Yet again they do not place that on the label because they feel consumers have too many preconceptions about this brewing method. it. Some people dislike Yamahai while others expect it to have an earthy component. But they produce a more refined yamahai so any earthy character is very much muted. They were also the first brewery to produce a certified organic Sake. They produce two brands, Yuki No Bosha ("cabin in the snow") and Yuri Masamune. They use a few different Sake rices, including the indigenous Akita Komachi ("beauty of Akita").

The Yuki No Bosha Junmai Ginjo, Limited Release would actually qualify as a Daiginjo, as 50% of the rice has been polished away, but they chose to label it as a Ginjo. It is a light, dry and complex Sake, with some subtle fruit flavors, including peach and melon, with hints of herbs on the smooth finish. A very easy drinking Sake which would appeal to newcomers to Sake as well as Sake lovers. The Yuki No Bosha Daiginjo, made with Akita Komachi rice milled down to an incredible 35%, is smooth, complex and possesses plenty of subtle tropical fruit notes. Aromatic and pleasing, this is an impressive Sake sure to please the discerning Sake lover or to thrill newcomers.

The Yuki No Bosha Junmai Ginjo Nigori is an usu-nigori, a "thin" nigori which has been pressed so only a minimal amount of the lees end up inside the Sake. This Sake would also qualify as a Daiginjo as 50% of the rice has been polished away, but they chose to label it as a Ginjo. Unlike many sweet Nigoris, this is more on the dry side, with a Sake Meter Value of +3. This was a smooth, bright and dry Sake, with nice fruity accents. This is my preferred style of Nigori so I enjoyed it very much. The Yuri Masamune is a Honjozo, with the rice polished down to 68%, and can be consumed either slightly chilled, at room temperature or even gently warmed. It does have a bit more of a harsh taste, with flavors of steamed rice and a little earthiness.

The Eiko Fuji Brewery, founded in 1778, is located in the Yamagata prefecture which is also located in the Tohoku region of Japan. The brewery takes its name from the famed Mount Fuji, hoping their Sake will equal the glory of that major Japanese symbol. Kodai Kato, the Manufacturing Manager, was present to pour their Sakes and share his knowledge.

The Eiko Fuji Namazake, which has only been pasteurized once, is available year round, unlike many other namazakes which only come out during the Spring. But they brew the namazake, storing it at 5 degrees Celsius, and then ship it out when necessary. As expected, it does not taste like many other namazakes, lacking that zippy freshness, but still is tasty, being more smooth and rich, with delightful flavors of green apple, pineapple and melon. The Eiko Fuji Ban Ryu ("ten thousand ways") refers to the Sake adage that there are 10,000 ways to brew Sake. The rice for this Sake was polished down to 65%, and it is dry with a strong anise flavor dominating over the undercurrent of tropical fruits. A very intriguing flavor combination. The Eiko Fuji Honkara is a Honjozo, and the term "honkara" is an abbreviation for "Honjozo Karakuchi." Karakuchi refers to a "dry" Sake, and with a Sake Meter Value of +10, this is a dry one. It would technically qualify as a Ginjo, as the rice has been polished down to 60%. It was smooth, crisp and aromatic with hints of steamed rice.

The Tomita Shuzo, founded in the 1540s, is one of oldest breweries in Japan. It is located in the town of Kinomoto in the Shiga prefecture and we met Yasunobu Tomita (pictured above), the Executive Director of the kura. As the entire town of Kinomoto burnt down in 1752, the actual brewery building only dates from that time. They are also one of the smallest Sake breweries in Japan, producing only about 5000 cases each year. Their brand is Shichi Hon Yari which refers to seven legendary spearmen from the battle of Shizugatake which took place outside Kinomoto in 1583. Those skilled spearmen brought victory to their liege Hideyoshi. Most of their Sake is made from indigenous Tamazakae rice.

The Shichi Hon Yari Junmai Ginjo Nigori is another dry Nigori, and that was their intent, to reduce the usual sweetness. It was dry yet with smooth, excellent tropical fruit flavors. Very pleasing and a style of Nigori I very much enjoy. The Shichi Hon Yari Junmai, which would qualify as a Ginjo as the rice is polished down to 60%, has a heavy, rich flavor with an intriguing combination of earthiness atop melon and peach elements. A nice umami taste so bring on a mushroom risotto.

Maybe the top treasure of the tasting was the Shichi Hon Yari Shizuku Junmai Daiginjo, where the rice has been polished down to 45%. This Sake was pressed using the rare Shizuku ("drip") method, where bags of the sake and lees are tied off at the neck and hung up, so the sake will slowly drip out over time. This is also sometimes known as kubi-tsuri ("hung by the neck"). This is supposed to produce a high quality Sake, though you also produce less Sake than through other pressing methods. This was an amazing sake, crisp and clean, complex and subtle, delicious and dry. It goes down so smoothly, as they say, "like drinking water," which is a high compliment for Sake. They produce very little of this Sake, and it could run you $100 or more, but for a Sake lover, it will be worth every penny.

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Ribera del Duero: Food Pairings

As I mentioned in my Rant yesterday, I attended a "food pairing seminar" led by Drink Ribera, showcasing Spanish wines from the Ribera del Duero region. The event was held at Taberna de Haro, an excellent Spanish restaurant in Brookline. I had some concerns that the event would fail to reach its potential, that pairing Spanish wines with Spanish cuisine was too obvious a choice and that it would have been more educational if a different cuisine had been involved. That is largely what occurred.

The "food pairing seminar" was actually more of a broad overview of the Ribera del Duero region and its wines. That was certainly educational, though not quite expected. For those unfamiliar with the wines of this excellent Spanish region, it was a great introduction. I was intrigued to learn that climate change has not been a major factor in this region as its higher altitude has minimized the effects of climate change. But I was hoping for a more in-depth discussion of the versatility and flexibility of these wines with a variety of different cuisines.

Information on food pairings with Ribera del Duero wines was very limited. The informational booklet we received had nothing on food pairings, and there seemed to be but a single slide in the formal presentation that addressed that topic. We were given some suggestions on pairings for the following wine types:

Rosado: Light dishes, appetizers, fish, chicken and fried foods
Cosecha: Cheese, cold cuts, pizza, BBQ
Crianza: Lamb chops, roasted meats, grilled salmon
Reserva: Roasted meats, mushrooms
Gran Reserva: Grilled lamb chops, suckling pig, Manchego cheese

The seminar included a pairing of three wines types, Joven, Crianza and Reserva, with three courses of Spanish dishes prepared by Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen.  The brands of the wines were not identified so that we could concentrate on the style rather than the producer. The types are differentiated by their amount of aging. Thus, the Joven, with the least amount of aging, is more fresh and fruity while the Reserva, the longest aged, has more spice elements and the fruit notes are a bit more restrained.

Much of our fare was simple yet fresh and delicious, the high quality cuisine that I have come to expect from Chef Hansen. Each of the three courses came with two dishes (or a bowl) of food. All of the dishes went well with the wines, though that was not really surprising, except for one of the first dishes. It is surprises like that first dish of which we needed more. To make Ribera del Duero wines more mainstream, they need to be presented in every day situations, with foods like pizza, burgers, steaks, pasta and even Chinese food. As I said previously, Drink Ribera should not have gone for the obvious, but rather used this opportunity to think outside the box and pair their wines with a much different cuisine.

The first course, paired with the Joven, presented the only surprise of the event. Beside the spicy chorizo atop the country bread that was drizzled with olive oil, we also had "crashed" eggs, thinly sliced fried potatoes and jamon. Red wine with breakfast food? Yes, it worked, the fruitiness of the wine making a nice companion to the eggs, potato and ham. That is thinking outside of the box and I suspect that was due to Chef Hansen.

This initial course also came with a bowl of simmered white beans with shreds of pork rib. The tender beans, savory broth and slightly salty pork combined for an excellent melange of flavors. It too went well with the young Joven wine.

Maybe my favorite dish to the lunch was during the second course, pairing with a Crianza, the braised lamb with peppers and jamon. The chunks of lamb were extremely tender, easily flaking apart, and had such a savory taste, accented by the sauce. A hearty dish that satisfied the carnivore within me. This was also a perfect choice for the Crianza, which presented a bit of a more rustic style with added spice notes.

With the lamb, we also had some morcilla (blood sausage) and oyster mushrooms with garlic. I do enjoy morcilla so this was a pleasant treat, and they certainly go well with a Spanish red wine.

For the final course, we began with some roasted red peppers and Zamorano cheese topped by a couple Marcona almonds. Like Manchego, it is a hard, sheep's milk cheese but it has a more tart flavor, and was a touch creamy as well. The peppers seemed fresh, with a nice crispness still to them. The Reserva, with its Old World style, was a nice pairing.

The braised hen with saffron, fresh thyme, and a pearl tomato was tender, moist and flavorful. The meat easily came apart and was not over powered by the Reserva wine. Another delightful dish.

Kudos once again to Chef Hansen for a delicious meal, and I continue to heartily recommend that you check out her restaurant Taberna de Haro. 

As for more nontraditional pairings for Ribera del Duero wines, I will work on a future post to provide some suggestions.

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TerraVino: Every Wine Tells A Story

Terra Vino=Dirt Wine?

Last week, TerraVino, a new wine store in Brookline, opened its doors and I stopped by on their second day to check it out. The shop is owned by Christopher Carbone, and this endeavor is the fulfillment of his dream, a way to express his passion for wine. Terra Vino is a reflection of his long held principles and ideals. Of course, the store is a work in progress, newly opened, so that not everything is yet in place, and changes and adjustments may occur to make it a better and more responsive business. So some of my thoughts here may be tentative, and could change as the store makes adjustments.

In short though, this is a wine store that I recommend everyone check out.

I'll address the negative first, to get it out of the way, and should note that it primarily revolves around nomenclature. The motto of the store, prominent on the front window as well as their website, is "Real. Natural. Wines." The terms "real" and "natural" both suffer from a lack of precision, loosely and ambiguously defined terms which have been at the center of numerous controversies. They are sometimes seen as arrogant and elitist, as if any wine that does not meet their definitions is automatically inferior. They can create an adversarial relationship with other wineries, wine makers and wine stores.

I have greater issues with the use of the term "real wine" rather than "natural wine," though even that term has problems. What is the opposite of a real wine? A fake wine? Illusionary wine? Unreal wine? Frankly, I don't like the prominent use of these terms because they can cause more confusion and friction than they resolve. If the terms were not so blatantly displayed and promoted, I would not have as significant a reaction.

Christopher stated to me that "real wine" comes from real people, from farmers who have a passion for the craft and who make wine for a reason and not as a commodity. I am sure many wine makers would consider themselves to fit that definition, though Christopher and others might not agree. Christopher also told me that real wines don't have to be natural though he also could not really provide me a concise term for the opposite of a "real wine."

He acknowledged that the term "natural wine" is loosely defined and he offered his own definition that it entails "nothing added, nothing taken away." Even that is not fully accurate as a wine with some minimal additions and deletions may still be permitted within the definition. So what is the standard for a permissible "minimal" addition or deletion? Different people will have different standards. All of the wines stocked in Christopher's are sustainable, organic, biodynamic or locally produced, though not all of them may be certified as such.

The problem is with the terms themselves, and not Christopher. He considers himself a "real" person, and from what I know of him, that is an accurate description. He is unpretentious, down to earth, sincere, passionate and true to his principles. He tries to live a "green" lifestyle, and that is reflected in his business as well. The shop is built with natural and eco-friendly materials, they try to recycle all that they can, and have instituted numerous other green practices as well. This is very important to Christopher and it is not merely a marketing stunt. I find it much easier to consider Christopher to be "real" rather than consider the wines he sells to be "real."

The store is small but spacious, and you will generally find red wines on the left wall and white wines and rosés on the right wall. The table in the center of the store has sparkling wines, including local ones from Westport Rivers. Against the back wall is a small selection of beer, and also on the right wall is a refrigerator holding wines and beers while the left wall has a wine tasting machine.

Currently, they carry about 135 wines and ultimately that number will rise to the range of 150-200. So this is more a boutique wine shop, with a carefully selected, small collection of wines. About eleven countries are now represented, including France, Italy, Spain, Argentina, Chile, Austria, and New Zealand, as well as five U.S. states, including California, Massachusetts, Oregon, Washington, and New York. As more wines are being added all the time, this diversity should expand. In the near future, they may add Sake, Sherry, Port, Hard Cider and Dessert wines to the mix as well as more local wines, such as from Travessia.

The wines are generally organized by grape, grouping them as well by similar style, though this is still a work in progress. Christopher did not want to organize them by country and region as he felt that a customer would have to walk all around the store to find all of the Pinot Noirs. Though that same problem exists with grouping by grape if a customer wants to find all of the wines from a single country. Plus, in a store where terroir, where a sense of place, is so important, you would expect to see the wines organized by country and region to better reflect that sense of place. No organization system is without flaw, and Christopher may adjust his system dependent on customer feedback.

The selections are currently heavy on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as Christopher is still unsure of the local market and is trying to play it a bit safe initially. But you will still find some more unique wines there too, from less common grapes like Bobal and Zweigelt. Wine prices are competitive to other local stores, and about 25% of their stock is priced under $15, with a large proportion under $25. Right now, their most expensive wine is only $64. They also offer discounts, 10% for 6 bottles and 15% for 12 bottles, whether the same bottle or a mixed bunch.

There is a wine tasting machine which carries eight different wines so there is always something available for customers to taste. The machine issues 1/2 ounce pours, and the selection changes frequently, once a bottle is emptied. It is very important to Christopher that his customers have the opportunity to taste the wines before they buy them. Besides the machine, they will also have regular Saturday tastings and possibly other special tasting events.

You won't find shelf talkers on the racks, no wine scores or lists of medals. This is very much a hand sell store where customer service is key. Many of these wines will be unfamiliar to the average consumer, and even the avid wine lover is likely to find plenty of wines they have not tasted before. It is a very intriguing selection of wines, and there were plenty of wines which interested me. For a wine lover, the selection is going to be especially compelling. For the average consumer, the store will be an educational experience, and hopefully they will be adventurous enough to expand their palates and try these wines.

It is in this area where I believe the true motto of the store exists, that "Everything has a story behind it." Christopher wants to be a storyteller, more in the traditional, oral sense rather than as a writer. More Homer than Hemingway. He desires to share with his customers the stories of each wine, tales of the farmers, the history of the wineries, the nature of the grapes, and much more. He wants to intrigue and fascinate his customers, to provide them reasons why they should buy the wines. The intent is to share his passion, to establish relationships with his customers rather than viewing them merely as wallets and pocketbooks. I believe it is this aspect which will inspire far more customers than the motto of "Real. Natural. Wines."

Eco-practices are very important to Christopher and he pays attention to what may seem the smallest of details. For example, each wine has a chalk tag hung on the neck with the name of the wine and its price. This helps reduce on paper use and waste, rather than using adhesive tags or paper prices. The chalk tags can be easily erased and used again and again, a very green practice. It may seem like a small thing, but when taken together over time, it adds up.

What does the owner want his customers to know about his new store? I asked Christopher to give me his top three points, the most important items that a new customer should know. First, the entire inventory is sustainable and consists of wines you are unlikely to find in most other stores. Second, the store is devoted to being "green" and that is reflected in all aspects of the shop. Finally, customer service is key, as it is a hand sell place where the staff will share the stories of the wines with all of the customers. All very valid points, and I find the third point the most compelling.

There is a small beer selection, mostly local, artisan beers, and including some gluten free beers. You will find some chilled beers in their refrigerated unit too. Their emphasis is on wine, but they wanted to carry a select assortment of beers too.

As the store is a work in progress, much more will be coming in the near future such as recyclable 6 pack wine totes and assorted wine accessories. The customers' feedback will also be influential in the future path of TerraVino, though I am sure that Christopher will always remain true to his principles. Christopher has not chosen an easy path, creating a boutique wine store which doesn't sell consumer friendly, mass produced wines like Yellow Tail. He will have to work hard to persuade consumers to take a chance on the type of wines he sells. But he deserves much credit for taking on such a challenge.

This is the type of store that requires much from its owner, who cannot just sit behind a cash register and let the wine sell itself. Rather, Christopher must take a very active role in promoting his wines, in convincing consumers that they are worthy wines. He must be seller and storyteller, a passionate advocate of his selections, and I believe he is up to that challenge. All you have to do is spend some time talking with Chris, and you will realize the deep reservoirs of passion within him for wine, especially the type of wines he chooses to sell.

I bought five different wines while I was at the store, including: 2010 Vera de Estenas P.G. Bobal ($13), 2008 Monje Tradicional Tinto ($22), 2010 Tintero Rosso ($10), 2009 Meinklang Burgenland Red ($16), and 2010 La Roche Buissiere Petit Jo Rogue ($20). I needed some wines for every day drinking, and these wines intrigued me.

Since my visit to the store, I have drank one of the wines I purchased, the 2010 Vera de Estenas P.G. Bobal. I had tasted and enjoyed this wine at the store, so expected that I would enjoy it later at home too. the wine is from the Spanish D.O. of Utiel-Requena and the winery is the oldest in that region. The wine is produced from 100% Bobal, an indigenous grape which has been around since at least the 15th century. It derives its name from the Latin term "bovale" which refers to the shape of a bull’s head.

This wine was fermented in stainless steel and spent a few months in oak. It is light bodied, with delicious fruit flavors complemented by a subtle earthiness and hints of spice. I paired the wine with veal parmigiana and it went very well together.  It is a wine with plenty of character and is an excellent value which I highly recommend. I am fairly confident this wine will end up on my 2012 Favorites list.

So check out TerraVino, meet Christopher and learn about some intriguing and delicious wines.

Terra Vino=Story Wines!

Update: 4/10/12, 7pm--Christopher informed me that his store's wines are now organized by country rather than grape variety. As I stated, it is still a new story, subject to change, and I am pleased to see this change, especially as I think it better reflects terroir, a sense of place.

Update: As of the end of August 2012, Terravino is now closed. 

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