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Monday, 9 July 2012

The Ghost Of A Ninja: My New Short Story

Posted on 22:00 by Unknown
The Tipsy Sensei has returned.

The Ghost Of A Ninja, the second short story in the Tipsy Sensei series, is now available as an e-book for only $0.99 at Amazon. Several men, who stole some Japanese antiques which may possess magical powers, have been murdered under mysterious circumstances. Could the ghost of a ninja be reaching from beyond the grave to seek vengeance against these men?

Nate, a Sake expert and the "Tipsy Sensei," is asked to help save the life of his friend, who believes he will be the next person to be killed. Can Nate save his friend, and if so, how far will he go to save his friend's life? Or will everyone succumb to the deadly intentions of an ancient Japanese legend? This is a murder mystery with several intriguing twists and turns.

The Ghost Of A Ninja takes place in Boston, and a few actual Boston locations are mentioned in the story, including Prezza, Troquet and Coppa.

Though it is not necessary to enjoy The Ghost Of A Ninja, I recommend that you start by reading Yurine's Pot, the first story in the Tipsy Sensei series. Please note that you do not need a Kindle to read these short stories. If you have a computer, you just have to download one of the Free Kindle Apps, which will allow you to read any Kindle book.

If you read and enjoy my new short story, please leave a review on Amazon too. That would be much appreciated.

Kanpai!
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Posted in Boston, fiction, Sake | No comments

Rant: No More Burgers & Cupcakes

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
Whatever happened to originality? Where are the shepherds, leading the flocks, rather than the sheep who simply follow the latest trend?

I am getting very tired of these food trends that never seem to end, which hang around far too long and which seem to consume the city. From cupcakes to burgers, so many people try to jump on the bandwagon and offer their own version of the latest trend. The market then becomes saturated and you almost cannot walk without bumping into some incarnation of this latest trend. Sure, the first few places that started the trend might have been pioneers, yet why then is there a need to spawn dozens upon dozens of copies to replicate their success?

It almost seems like laziness, that a place lacks its own original ideas so must copy the ideas of others. Ah, Restaurant "A" created this amazing burger so now Restaurants "B" through "Z" must also do so rather than trying to produce something unique to their own restaurant. The slight changes they make to the burger don't usually constitute something "original." Cupcake Bakery "A" has been successful so 20 more cupcake bakeries, almost clones of the first, now need to be opened. Where does it end?

Food writers must bear some of the blame, as some of them seem to revel in writing about food trends. They seem to embrace the multiplicity of places selling a similar product. They like writing articles that rate the "best" burgers or cupcakes. They try to get people excited about the newest burger or cupcake bakery, despite the fact that so many others already exist. I guess for some of these writers it may be laziness as well,  that such food trends are an easy topic to write about. It takes little original thought to write about it.

The consumers must also bear some of the blame, for patronizing all of these different places, for being eager and excited to check the latest clone of a burger or cupcake, rather than seeking out something unique. Why don't they have higher standards? Why are they fixated on a single product, thus satisfied with tasting a myriad variations, despite the fact those variations often are not really that different? Is that laziness as well, sticking with the familiar rather than stepping outside their comfort zone?

Rather than hear about 157th cupcake bakery to open up, I want to know about the whoopie pie bakery or the bread pudding shop. Rather than hear about the 213th restaurant's burger, I want to know which is serving a new Shepherd's Pie. The same applies to wine with me as well. Don't tell me about the 1856th Cabernet Sauvignon that has been produced but rather tell me about the the first producer of Mencia from California.

Stop copying what everyone else is doing. Stop taking the easy route. Stop catering to the lowest denominator. Be original, be unique, be different. Be the one that everyone else wants to copy.
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Posted in Bakery, controversy, rant, Restaurant | No comments

Friday, 6 July 2012

All About Chianti Classico

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
"When the peasant eats a chicken, either the peasant is ill, or the chicken is."
--Italian proverb

Since my recent journey to the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, Italy, I have written a number of posts about my experiences and are planning to write other posts for the near future. It was a beautiful, fascinating and tasty region, one that I highly recommend you visit. This is a region with a rich and vibrant history, and one which straddles both tradition and modern advances. There have been significant changes to the region within the last 20 years, and the quality of their wine has never been better.

"Garlic is the peasant's spice cupboard."
--Italian proverb

My journey was part of a journalist trip, sponsored by the Consorzio del Vino Chianti and Balzac Communications, I and four other writers explored Chianti Classico during the Chianti Classico è, a ten day festival celebrating the wines and foods of this region. Out itinerary included visits to seven wineries, including Castello d’Albola, Felsina, Castelli di Starda, Barone Ricasoli/Castello di Brolio, Isole e Olena (one of my favorite producers), Fontodi and Poggio al Sole. We participated in festival events such as Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) & Street Food Festival and the Homemaker’s Trophy, a cook-off with local housewives. In addition, we attended a few other tasting events, with the opportunity to taste many different wines from a variety of producers in the Chianti Classico region. We enjoyed many of the wines with our lunches and dinners.

"Saint Bernard's sauce makes food seem good."
--Italian proverb (St. Bernard's sauce is "hunger")

I felt it would be very helpful to my readers to compile the links to my Chianti Classico related posts in a single place. This post will be that repository, and as such will be constantly updated when I write another article about Chianti Classico. Some of these articles were written before my trip, and others afterwards. The posts will be listed in chronological order, from oldest to newest.

Bound For Italy: Chianti Classico
Rant: Where Is Wine Made?
Chianti Classico: The Times They Are A-Changing
Ten Things You Should Know About Chianti Classico (Part 1)
Ten Things You Should Know About Chianti Classico (Part 2)
Dario Cecchini: The Singing Butcher of Panzano
Barone Ricasoli: The Past & Future of Chianti Classico
Paolo di Marchi: The Philosopher-Peasant of Chianti Classico (Part 1) 
Paolo di Marchi: The Philosopher-Peasant of Chianti Classico (Part 2)
Fontodi Winery: Refreshing A Chianti Tradition
Felsina: A Rave For Rancia
Chianti Classico: Events & Wine Recommendations
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Posted in italian cuisine, Italy, Italy Wines, travel | No comments

Thursday, 5 July 2012

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1) North Shore micro-distiller Turkey Shore Distilleries has partnered with Historic New England's Spencer-Peirce-Little Farm to celebrate Independence Day in Revolutionary style. Rum, Rations and Revolution: Eating and Drinking with Captain Boardman features a meal and Old Ipswich Rum punch in the style of the period, along with tales of the legendary privateer Captain Offin Boardman on Friday, July 6 and Saturday, July 7 from 7-9 p.m. at Spencer-Peirce-Little Farm, 5 Little's Lane in Newbury, Mass.

Bethany Groff, author of "A Brief History of Old Newbury from Settlement to Separation," will regale diners with tales of the legendary privateer Captain Offin Boardman while guests sip traditional rum punches, provided by Turkey Shore Distilleries. Using excerpts from Offin Boardman's diary, along with archeological studies and maritime records, Groff will introduce you to a national hero who was, and remains, larger than life. "This is a man we would all want to share a punch bowl with," said Groff. "He was a bold man, a soul-searcher, a party animal, a romantic, and a key to the story of the birth of our nation. He is best known for dare-devil antics, capturing British ships with style, and even escaping from a notorious English prison not once, but twice!"

In the late eighteenth century, the Spencer-Peirce-Little Farm was the country estate of Captain Offin Boardman. The soaring rafters and massive beams of the 1775 barn are a perfect backdrop for an evening of historic fun.

Registration is required. Tickets are $35 for Historic New England members and $55 nonmembers/general public. Please call 978-462-2634 for more information.

2) On July 17, at 7pm, Grafton Street welcomes bourbon pros and newbies alike to post up on its Harvard Square patio and sharpen their palates during a four-course dinner with Bulleit Bourbon and Rye. Chef Eric Gregory offers up his twists on summer BBQ staples – all paired with classic cocktails and new interpretations from the Grafton Street bar staff. A Bulleit Bourbon representative will be on hand to provide a crash course in bourbon so diners will leave knowing the difference between scotch, whiskey and bourbon.

The four-course dinner with cocktail pairings includes:
BBQ Shrimp with Bulleit Bourbon BBQ Sauce (Ginger, Cilantro, Local Corn Chowder)
Paired with the Rye Elderfashion(Bulleit Rye, St. Germaine, Angostura Bitters, Fresh Orange)
Duck and Foie Gras Terrine (Rhubarb Jam, Fennel, Sea Salt, Toasted Brioche)
Paired with the Bourbon Buck(Bulleit Bourbon, AJ Stephan’s Ginger Beer, Mint, Fresh Lemon)
Smoked Lamb Chops (Mint, Spiced Freekah, Pickled Cherries)
Paired with the Ward 8(Bulleit Rye, Fresh Orange & Lemon, House-Made Grenadine)
Peach Financier(Bourbon Syrup, Whipped Creme Friache)
Paired with the Lawrenceburg Manhattan(Citrus and Vanilla-Infused Bulleit Bourbon, Punt e Mes, Angostura Bitters, Amarena Cherries)

Cost: $60/person includes a four-course dinner with cocktail pairings. Seating is limited. To reserve your spot, call 617-497-0400.

3) Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar is celebrating summer with a series of Summer Lovin’ Steak & Sangria prix fixe dinners that will take guests on a culinary world tour. This summer menu series, offered July 2-August 26, will introduce a new steak and sangria pairing every two weeks, each featuring an inspired selection of fresh, seasonal ingredients and internationally inspired flavors.

Every Summer Lovin’ Steak & Sangria menu features a summer salad, a uniquely seasoned specialty prime New York Strip Steak with a vibrant topping and a decadent dessert for $39.95. Each menu also includes a suggested hand-crafted sangria pairing for $7.95. Guests visiting the bar will also have an opportunity to enjoy the series of refreshing, seasonal sangrias.

Fleming’s Executive Chef Russell Skall, believes that summer dining is about innovative flavors that convey fun in the sun: “Steak and sangria are two things that instantly take a summer BBQ from ordinary to extraordinary, and Fleming’s is helping guests take away the fuss by bringing the ultimate summer BBQ to our patios instead of theirs,” said Skall. “The steak and sangria menus will present a variety of marinades and sauces that will highlight fresh summer flavors and provide guests with a global summer vacation feel.”

Summer Lovin’ Steak & Sangria menus include:
July 2-15:
· Fresh Summer Greens, sliced strawberries, Danish blue cheese crumbles, candied walnuts and a red wine vinaigrette
· Prime New York Strip with Jamaican jerk rub, chimichurri sauce, roasted pineapple salsa and farm-fresh corn salad
· Chilled White Chocolate Almond Soufflé with a graham cracker crust and blueberry sauce, drizzled with housemade caramel
o Optional Pairing: Silver Sun Sangria - Red Diamond Merlot infused with fresh fruit of the season and topped with Milagro Silver Tequila, a touch of Crème de Cassis, muddled blackberries and fresh lemon juice

July 16-29:
· Baby Spinach Salad with fresh pears, seasoned bacon, crumbled goat cheese, toasted Marcona almonds and a red onion vinaigrette
· Prime New York Strip with garlic herb butter and Burrata cheese, Tuscan-style, blistered grape tomatoes and a balsamic glaze drizzle
· Mixed Berry Shortcake with Grand Marnier-soaked strawberries and blueberries, pistachio-orange buttermilk shortcake, and Sambuca cream
o Optional Pairing: Sangria Sol - Viñedos Terranoble Sauvignon Blanc, Solerno Blood Orange, Stoli Peach Vodka and fresh peaches, honeydew melon, oranges and lemons

July 30-August 12:
· Butter Lettuce and Pear Salad with goat cheese, candied walnuts, crispy onions, and a lemon vinaigrette
· Prime New York Strip with a sweet and spicy rub, topped with a savory tomato and roasted red pepper butter and chopped marcona almonds, and served with a side of summer zucchini slaw
· Fresh Peach Cobbler with a brown sugar oat streusel and topped with vanilla ice cream
o Optional Pairing: South Seas Sangria - Viñedos Terranoble Sauvignon Blanc, Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum, and Peach Schnapps with fresh peaches, honeydew melon, oranges and lemons

August 13-26:
· Beefsteak Tomato & Mozzarella Salad with arugula and a red onion balsamic vinaigrette
· Prime New York Strip topped with crispy gorgonzola and served with grilled asparagus, pickled fennel and baby golden beets
· Lemon-Poppy Seed Butter Cookies with vanilla ice cream and a warm apple-ginger sauce
o Optional Pairing: Sailors Sunset Sangria - Red Diamond Merlot, Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum and Peach Schnapps, with fresh peaches, oranges and lemons

4) Chefs Chris Douglass and Nuno Alves of Tavolo welcome Leigh Belanger, author of The Boston Homegrown Cookbook, on Thursday, July 19, with seatings beginning at 6pm, for the second in a series of five “Cookbook Authors of Boston” dinners

MENU:
First course:Caprese Salad of Local Heirloom Tomatoes and Burrata
Second course: Roasted Bass with Littlenecks and Housemade Chorizo over a bed of kale and potatoes
Dessert course: Ward’s Berry Farm Strawberry Shortcake

Cost is $45 per person and includes an autographed cookbook. Reservations recommended so please call 617-822-1918.

5)  On July 11, at 6:30pm, Del Frisco’s steakhouse will partner with master Bourbon distiller, Lincoln Henderson, in an Angels Envy Bourbon Dinner featuring Angels Envy cocktails paired with three-courses by Executive Chef Derek Barragan, in addition to a discussion lead by the Bourbon Hall of Famer. Angels Envy, a Kentucky Bourbon Whisky finished in port wine barrels was launched by Henderson and his sons, Wes and Kyle, in the spring. Henderson is regarded as one of the world’s leading spirits experts and an inaugural member of the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame.

Menu
--Passed Hors d’oeuvres:
Smoked Salmon Belly, summer watermelon, English cucumber, chilled crème
Yucca chip, Georges Bank haddock-scallop ceviche, blood orange
--First Course 
Prime New York Strip, Italian black truffle butter, fried leeks, basil oil
--Second Course
Filet Mignon, plantain-potato pancake, ancho demi
--Dessert
Angels Envy Pineapple Upside Down Cake, pomegranate syrup, salted caramel

Cost: $85 per person (tax and gratuity not included).
Space is limited. To make a reservation, please call 617-345-3941.
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Wednesday, 4 July 2012

Barone Ricasoli: The Past & Future of Chianti Classico

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown

Established in 1141, it may be the oldest winery in Italy, the second oldest in the world. In 1141, the family of Barone Ricasoli was granted the Brolio Castle and it became a powerful stronghold for Florence, later helping defend the land against Siena. Wine making was one of their first pursuits and it has continued throughout the centuries. In the late 17th century, their wines were being traded all over Europe. It is easy to say that wine seems to be the sap in their family tree.

The most famous member of this family was Baron Bettino Ricasoli (1809 – 1880), also known as the "Iron Baron." In 1861, Bettino became the Prime Minister of the newly formed Italy. Though known as an adept politician, it was his intense research and study of wine that gave him renown. He created the basic formula for the Chianti blend, 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo (to smooth the tannins) and 15% Malvasia bianca (to make it more drinkable when fresh). This basic formula, with some slight revision, was eventually codified into law in 1966. Thus the name Ricasoli is rich with history and reputation, setting a high precedent for future generations. That is a precedent that the current Baron of Brolio intends to live up to and make proud.

It was a pleasure to meet Francesco Ricasoli, the 32nd Baron of Brolio, who was intelligent, personable and passionate. He possesses a potent drive to elevate the winery to new heights. Until the advent of World War 2, Barone Ricasoli was considered by many to be the most impressive winery in the region. But, during the 1970s, when the family was undergoing significant financial issues, they had to sell the estate to the Seagram Company. Yet the family's finances rebounded and in 1993, they were able to purchase the estate back. Since then, Francesco has replanted the vineyards and updated almost everything, setting the winery on a path to the future. The estate has 1200 hectares, with 240 under vine. Francesco stated that their biggest challenge right now is to regain the top spot in Chianti Classico, to once again become a benchmark.

Francesco, like many winemakers in Chianti Classico, believes wine is made in the vineyard not the cellar. He stated, "Most important thing is outside, the vineyard" and continued with "In the cellar, you can only ruin it." He also believes that Sangiovese is very difficult to grow, a "bastard" grape that is "like a spoiled woman."  But it is also "very intriguing" and can be "extremely elegant."  It still needs plenty more study and research, to delve into all its secrets. The winery currently uses 5-7 Sangiovese clones, as they like blending the clones, each which presents different characteristics. Next year, Ricasoli will submit a couple of new clones to the Italian Ministry of Agriculture for official recognition.

Francesco definitely sees research and study as the path to the future, not only for his winery, but for all wineries. He believes that modern viticulture needs more answers and that knowledge is the key to success. In that regard, he hired the Consiglio per la Ricerca e la Sperimentazione in Agricoltura (CRA) to conduct an extensive, scientific study of the zoning of his estate, probably the first time such a study has ever been conducted in Italy. The study addressed many issues, assessing each vineyard by its soil, microclimate, altitude, exposure, grape, and much more. After three years of study, the CRA has issued their report, and the map pictured above is part of those results. These results should help Francesco improve the quality of their vineyards, and thus his wines. Francesco has not discussed the results much with any other winery yet, though he is considering publishing the report in the future.

Though the vineyards use some organic methods, it is not 100% organic and that is not their goal. They rarely use chemicals, less than once a year, but they want that option if necessary. Francesco said, "I laugh at natural wines" and that "Balance is the key. Extremes are always dangerous." He prefers wine of elegance not muscles, criticizing those wines which are much too powerful. The winery currently produces 2.5 to 3 million bottles annually, and all of their wines are available in the U.S. Their biggest markets are Northern Europe and North America, with Japan being their largest Asian market. They were also one of the first Italian wineries to use QR codes on their bottles and while I was in Chianti Classico, I noticed several other wineries doing so.

Ricasoli produces both traditional and modern style Chianti Classicos, as well as some IGT wines. They also produce two single vineyard wines, a Sangiovese and a Merlot. My preference were their more traditional wines though I liked some of their modern wines as well. Francesco, while being up front about the exact grape percentages in his wines, stated he disliked talking about them as he felt it was more about chemistry than wine. He also felt that knowing the percentages might interfere with the enjoyment of the wine, which is a sentiment I have heard before from a few other wine makers.

The 2011 Torricella IGT ($22-$24) has been a proprietary name for over a century, and used to be made with Malvasia bianca. In 1994, it was changed to Chardonnay and then in the last few years, some Sauvignon Blanc has been added. For this vintage, the blend was 80% Chardonnay and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, and each grape was fermented separately. The wine was fresh and crisp, with prominent grapefruit and citrus flavors and a bit of minerality. It reminded me much more of a Sauvignon Blanc than a Chardonnay, and would be a nice summer wine.

The 2010 Brolio Chianti Classico ($24) is more of a modern style, their "bread and butter" wine. At the winery, we were told the wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, though the website states it has 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It has bright flavors of red fruits, cherry and strawberry, with some vanilla and spice notes. The tannins are smooth and it is a wine with some power, though not overly so, possessing a good balance. Though I prefer a traditional style, this was one of the best modern style Chianti Classicos that I tasted.

My favorite wine of the tasting was the 2008 Colledila Chianti Classico ($50s), a single vineyard Sangiovese produced in a more traditional style. This is only the second vintage of this wine, and Colledila is the name of the vineyard, a small, 7 hectare plot. Only about 14,000 bottles are produced annually. This was a superb wine, elegant, complex and compelling. It has an intriguing melange of flavors, cherry, violets, spice, herbs and a little earthiness. Great acidity and a lengthy, satisfying finish. A perfect wine to accompany a fine meal, from pasta to beef, and I bought a couple bottles to take home with me.

The 2008 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico ($55) is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is not made every vintage, and they skipped the 2002 and 2009 vintages. It seems to straddle the line between traditional and modern, being both elegant and rustic yet also has more dark fruit flavors, such as ripe plum, with strong vanilla notes and underlying spices. It is more tannic and is definitely a food wine that might benefit from a bit more aging. I enjoyed this wine, though my personal preference is still a more traditional style.

After the tasting, we had a chance to tour Castle Brolio, which has been damaged many times over the centuries, and thus rebuilt. One consequence is that it possesses various architectural styles. It was an important battleground in the wars between Florence and Sienna.






One of my favorite spots in the castle was the armory museum, a collection of swords, guns, armor and weapons that had been acquired over the centuries.
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Posted in history, Italy, Italy Wines, Wine Reviews, winery | No comments

Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Dario Cecchini: The Singing Butcher of Panzano

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
To satisfy my inner carnivore, it is always pure pleasure to dine at a restaurant that exclaims, "Viva la ciccia." which translates as "Long live meat!" When you travel through the Chianti Classico region, there is one mandatory stop for all meat-lovers, to meet a singing butcher who revels in the myriad joys of beef. You may have seen him before on television, lauded by Anthony Bourdain.

Praise Dario Cecchini!

Dario Cecchini, pictured above, bursts with enthusiasm, a flamboyant personality who comes from a long line of butchers, at least 600 years of history! It is claimed that Dante Aligheri and Leonardo da Vinci both were patrons of Cecchini butchers. Dario himself can quote from Dante at length, and he also loves to sing. He is a showman, yet it is also clear that he is quite adept at his butchery skills, having been a butcher for about 35 years. He treats his customers like family, or at least members of the same fraternal society, the lovers of meat in all its forms.

During our visit to the Chianti Classico region, we stopped one evening at the Antica Macelleria Cecchini, Dario's butcher shop in Panzano, where we witnessed him chopping up some steaks off a large hunk of beef. He effortlessly and skillfully wielded his cleaver and knife, creating a fine stack of steaks. Yet this was but the preliminary before dinner as above the butcher shop, hidden behind a secret door, is the Officina della Bistecca, his restaurant which is an homage to all things beef. We passed through the secret portal and climbed the stairs to the restaurant, as if ascending to a carnivore heaven.

But before ascending, we need to return to the exterior of the butcher shop, to view two marble signs, on the outer wall, which speak volumes about Dario. The top one is a memorial to the "death" of bistecca alla fiorentina, the famed Steak Florentince of this region. In 2001, due to worries about mad cow disease, some cuts of steak were banned in parts of Europe, including Italy. For example, meat attached to the bone of cattle older than one year was prohibited for sale. The bottom sign is more cheerful though, as it commemorates the lifting of the ban that occurred five years later.

Bistecca all fiorentina is essentially a T-bone steak which has been simply grilled until it is still a bit rare, and olive oil and salt are the only condiments. It allegedly acquired its name from English travelers who were quite pleased to find a familiar "beefsteak" for dinner in Tuscany. The bistecca used to be primarily made from Chianina cows but as it has become expensive, many restaurants now use less expensive beef. Dario though has been instrumental in bringing back the use of Chianina cows to the Tuscan region.

Where does Dario get his Chianina? Since childhood, Dario has been friends with Giovanni Manetti, the owner of Fontodi winery. Giovanni raises, naturally, about 30 Chianina cows and 1 bull on his estate. While visiting the winery, we also got to see his cattle. Giovanni provides Dario with one cow per month for his restaurant and he does not sell his cows to anyone else. When Giovanni was a small boy, his father used to own about 100 cows, and Giovanni is caring on a family tradition.

The Chianina breed may extend back to the ancient Etruscans and they have long been revered for their beauty and expressiveness. They may have originated in the Val di Chiana, from which they derive their name, which once was a fertile plan where they could easily graze. Unfortunately, during the Middle Ages, the nearby rivers flooded, turning the plain in swampland so the cows had to move elsewhere in Tuscany. In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the swamps were drained and the plains became fertile once again.

The cattle were primarily used as draft animals and with the advent of mechanization, their numbers started to decline as it was expensive to raise these animals. They require more pasture land than other cattle, and they are very particular in what they eat. In 1960, there were approximately 400,000 Chianina in Tuscany and by 1980, that population had decreased to 100,000. Today, it is even worse, as there are less than 30,000 Chianina cattle left. Interestingly, though they were used for work and meat, they were not used for the production of milk or cheese.

Chianina are typically white, except for their first three months when they have a brown coloration, which will fade away. There is little marbling in their meat, which means there is not much fat, so dry aging of the meat for 30-40 days is suggested. But the meat is dark red, juicy and quite delicious with a clean taste. After dining on their meat, I have become a huge fan.

For dinner, we ate outside at communal picnic tables (though it is also possible to sit inside the restaurant if you prefer). I loved the communal tables though as it promoted a happy and festive environment, and we got to meet new people. It was an experience without pretension, and it almost felt like you were eating with family or close friends. The meal is a prix fixe for only 50 Euros per person, and it includes food, wine and after dinner spirits. I think it is an excellent value for the quality and quantity you receive and I would highly recommend it, unless you are a vegetarian.

The menu includes five courses of beef: Chianti Crudo (beef tartar), Brustico (seared beef), Costata alla Fiorentina (bone-in rib eye or strip steak), Bistecca Panzanese (Panzanese steak), and Bistecca Fiorentina (T-bone or porterhouse steak). Plus, you receive Pinzimonio di verdure dell'orto (fresh, raw garden vegetables), Fagioli all'olio (Tuscan beans with olive oil), Patate al cartoccio (baked potatoes), Burro del Chianti (Chianti "butter" aka lard), and Pane Toscano (Tuscan bread). For dessert, you receive Torta all'olio (olive oil cake), coffee, Grappa, and Italian military spirits. That is plenty of food so you better  ensure you are hungry when you go.

Dario has his own Chianti Classico, served in a fiasco, which is included with your dinner but you can also bring your own wine without a corkage fee. That makes it an even better value.

We brought a number of Chianti Classicos with us for dinner, and my favorite was probably the 2010 Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico, a silky smooth and elegant wine with nice red fruit flavors. It seemed to pair so well with all of the beef dishes.

This video shows Dario in all his glory, entertaining the attendees while showcasing his steaks. I have to say that the beef was so damn good I felt tempted to lick the cutting board.

The beef tartare was amazing, the tender meat melting in your mouth with a spicy aftertaste. It was made very simply, with some lemon and spices, lacking the capers, egg, and other ingredients you often see in beef tartare in the U.S. Yet it didn't lack flavor in the least and I had a couple portions. The Brustico was almost like a grilled steak tip, and was also very tender, simply prepared and had a very savory aspect to it. With superb ingredients, you don't have to add much to present a bounty of taste.

Both the Costata alla Florentine and Bistecca Panzanese were cooked medium rare, though tending toward the rare, which is exactly how I enjoy my beef. Once again, the beef was tender and flavorful, appealing to the primeval carnivore lurking within me. They were generous too, giving people more meat if the guests so desired.

And of course the Bistecca Fiorentina was superb as well, as expected. Though I think some of the attendees were too full by this point to truly enjoy it. Forget all those steak sauces and glazes, this simple steak needed no accompaniment. At this point, after the bistecca, I was quite sated, and immensely happy. It was such a fun and tasty evening, catering to my love of beef. Service was excellent, everyone so personable and accommodating. A perfect evening.

At the end of the evening, it was time for some olive oil cake, which was good but it was hard to eat much after all of that beef. It was also time for some digestives, including some of Darios' own Grappa, a potent spirit.

I was most intrigued though by the Enocordial, a "military spirit," as I had never heard of that designation before. This is a Brandy that was aged for at least 3 years in oak and might be based on a historical recipe from the Military Farmacopea of 1877. It was a potent spirit as well, though I actually preferred it to the Grappa as it was a bit smoother.

So, if you are a buona forchetta, a "good fork," (which refers to an "enthusiastic eater") and you love beef, then you must pay homage to Dario Cecchini and dine at his Officina della Bistecca. I will treasure my own memories for a very long time and Dario receives my highest recommendation.

Viva la ciccia!
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Posted in farming, italian cuisine, Italy, Italy Wines, meat, Restaurant, restaurant reviews, steakhouse, winery | No comments

Monday, 2 July 2012

No Rant, Just An Update

Posted on 01:00 by Unknown
Hello all,

   Sorry, but there is no Rant today. Instead I wanted to provide a few updates concerning some positive matters going on.

First, as you have obviously noticed, my blog has undergone a significant design change, which I think makes it more clean and legible. I have not fully completed all of the changes, though any additional changes will likely be minor issues. The major work is finished and I am relatively happy with the results so far. I would still like your feedback though about the design changes so feel free to leave them in the comments or email them to me.

Second, I have nearly completed my next short story, tentatively titled The Killer Tea Kettle. This is a sequel to Yurine's Pot, and you might want to read that story before the sequel gets published. The Killer Tea Kettle is a murder mystery starring Nate, the Sake expert from Yurine's Pot, and might involve the ghost of a ninja seeking vengeance. Once again, the story features an ancient Japanese legend and Sake plays a center role as well. This story is about twice as long as the first short story and should be published later this month.

Third, you can look forward during the next couple weeks for more articles on Chianti Classico, including a meat lovers paradise as well as an in-depth look at Isole e Olena winery. Forthcoming, there will also likely be articles on Absinthe, some Sake reviews, and a couple restaurant recommendations. Later this month, I will also be giving an introductory lesson in Sake to some local bloggers at a Sake & Sushi class at Haru. That should be a fun event and I look forward to spreading some Sake love.


Enjoy your July 4 celebrations this week!
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